Hiking Los Glaciares Nacional Park In El Chalten, Argentina

by Jessica Festa on

During a trip to El Calafate in the Patagonia region of Argentina, I asked a local travel agent about trekking options. I was informed the best place to do this was in a town called El Chaltén. Nicknamed the “trekking capital of Argentina,” a traveler could spend days hiking around the beautiful mountains, forests and rivers of the area. Lucky for me, day trips are possible from El Calafate for 180 Argentine Pesos (about $41) round trip. The bus leaves from El Calafate at 8:00 a.m., and picks you up from El Chaltén at 6:30 p.m. Each way takes about three hours.

While I highly recommend spending a few days in El Chaltén to explore Los Glaciares Nacional Park and Mount Fitz Roy, it is possible to see a lot in just a few hours. In the gallery below, you can see my trek, which took me about four hours total. To access the Fitz Roy trailhead, cross town from the bus station via San Martin Avenue. Walk until the road ends and you’ll see a sign that says “Sendero al Fitz Roy.” Enter here, veering to the left, and follow the trail for Laguna Capri. You’ll be able to complete a moderately intense circuit with unbelievable views that will make you feel like you’re in a real-life Bob Ross masterpiece. From Laguna Capri, walk to Poincenot for excellent views of Mount Fitz Roy. Afterwards, continue walking in a circle in the direction of Mirador, another lookout point that makes for an excellent photography stop.

To see my experience, check out the gallery below.

%Gallery-152879%

Exploring The Diverse Landscapes Of Bariloche In Patagonia, Argentina

by Jessica Festa on

San Carlos de Bariloche, more commonly known as Bariloche, is located in Patagonia in Argentina. It is one of the most diverse and picturesque regions in the world, and a hotspot for hiking enthusiasts and nature lovers. In fact, it is the most popular tourist destination in Patagonia, and the third in Argentina.

Some of the photos below were taken during a drive through Bariloche, while others were snapped during various hikes. The first hike was to Cerro Campanario, which presents a 360-degree view of the land from 3,442 feet high. You can take bus 20 there, which costs 6 pesos, and get off at the sign that says “Cerro Camanario.” Note: Don’t ask the monorail ticket seller for directions to the trailhead, as they tend to try to trick locals and give them wrong directions. Simply walk behind the sign and the trailhead will be there. It is a steep, uphill hike that takes about an hour. Once you make it to the top, however, the mountain, water, and forest views will have been worth it.

The other hike was up Cerro Catedral, a 7,835-foot high mountain with many different trails to trek. Most of the sections are intense; however, the diverse landscape of the area will keep you preoccupied. There are many slopes, jumps and special paths for other activities as well, like mountain biking, skiing, mountain boarding, rappeling and riding quads. To get there, you take the Catedral bus line, which costs 8 pesos. Unlike with the other buses, you pay the driver directly instead of purchasing a ticket beforehand.

The photos below were taken by me on a recent trip to the city. While I’m in no way a professional photographer, Bariloche in so stunning, the pictures seem to take themselves. No matter where you go in Bariloche, you’ll be immersed in vibrant nature. See for yourself below.

%Gallery-152576%

12 Free Things To Do In Buenos Aires, Argentina

by Jessica Festa on

Buenos Aires, Argentina, is a beautiful country with 200 years of history, graceful tango and a vibrant art culture that can be seen on every street corner. The city is completely flat, making it the perfect place to explore by foot. While there are many options of things to do in Buenos Aires, they are not all free or budget-friendly. Luckily, I got the chance to explore the city with locals and discover the worthwhile sites that won’t break your bank.

Take a free walking tour

While my hostel advertised walking tours for 80 pesos and city bus tours for 180 pesos, I found a flyer advertising two city walking tours that were completely free. Buenos Aires Free Tour offers a daily city tour at 11:00 a.m. led by a local guide that teaches you about the history and culture of Buenos Aires. You also get to visit the oldest coffee shop in the city, Cafe Tortoni, which hasn’t changed a bit since it opened in 1858. At 5:00 p.m., the company also offers a free “Aristocratic Tour,” which allows you see sites like the famous Recoleta Cemetery, Plaza San Martin and the beautiful Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

So how can a free tour be better than the more expensive ones? These guides are passionate about what they do. Moreover, because they work on tips, they actually need to work for their money so you won’t get a guide that is bored with their job or uninterested in your questions. Virginia, the guide on my tour, was excellent. She knew everything about the city, was overly friendly and had the group laughing the entire time.Check out Buenos Aires’ museums and cultural centers

The city is home to many worthwhile museums and cultural centers that are not only interesting, but can also help give you insight into the area and culture. I really liked the National Historical Museum of the Cabildo and May Revolution. On Fridays, it is free to enter. The Cabildo was the main seat of the May Revolution of 1810, is one of the city’s oldest buildings and contains many historical documents and artifacts. I also recommend visiting one of the many cultural centers in Buenos Aires, especially the one in Recoleta (shown right), adjacent to the cemetery. Here you can explore history and art in a more avant-garde way. Guided tours in English are offered on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11:00 a.m. Other notable museums include:

  • “Enrique Larreta” Spanish Art Museum (Belgrano)- Free on Thursdays
  • Museum of the City (Montserrat)- Free on Mondays and Wednesdays
  • Museum of the Cinema (San Telmo)- Free on Wednesdays
  • National Fine Arts Museum (La Recoleta)- Always free
  • Museum of Latin-American Art of Buenos Aires (MALBA)- Free on Wednesdays from 12:00 to 9:00 p.m.

Learn about the city’s political history

The people of Buenos Aires, also known as porteños, are very passionate about politics. Along with the many museums in the city, there are also must-visit buildings if you want to really understand Buenos Aires’ past. Start at the National Congress Building, which offers free-guided tours in English on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 4:00 p.m. The building was opened in 1906, and contains many furnishings and pieces of decor from Europe. Then head over to the Casa Rosada, or Pink House, which is where President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner works. There is a museum inside, and free tours are offered on weekends.

Channel your inner activist and take in a protest

Going along with the above statement of politically passionate locals, you can expect about three or four protests per day. Most take place on Avenida de Mayo, which connects the National Congress and Casa Rosada, the two political buildings of the city. Head to Plaza de Mayo, which is located right in front of Casa Rosada. Here you will be almost guaranteed to see some political uproar. Notice the makeshift fence separating Casa Rosada from the plaza (pictured right). While it is technically a temporary fence that is supposed to be taken down after protests are over, Buenos Aires has so many they got tired of removing the barrier and just left it there. The locals of Buenos Aires protested so ferociously that in 2001, they actually caused then-President Fernando de la Rúa to resign from office and exit the building via a helicopter from the roof.

On Thursdays at 3:00 p.m. in Plaza de Mayo, you can see the “Madres de Plaza de Mayo,” or Mother’s of Plaza de Mayo, circling the square’s May Pyramid monument. In the 1970’s, Argentina went through a period of military dictatorship that left the people without a democracy. During this time, over 30,000 people went missing, were sent to torture camps and killed. These women have been asking for answers to where their children are since this time. You can see their symbol painted onto the cement in the plaza, an image of a cotton diaper, which the women would wear around their heads symbolically. While the country now gives its people a say, seeing these women will make you appreciate your rights.

Discover the city’s graffiti art

Buenos Aires has an extremely vibrant graffiti art scene. While there are walking tours for this, such as the graffitimundo graffiti and street art tours, it can be fun to just go on your own and explore as well. Basically any neighborhood you go to will have tons of it. I stayed in the San Telmo neighborhood and spent hours exploring the streets and finding artistic works, many of which have political meanings. Palermo is another great area to explore the best graffiti art Buenos Aires has to offer. I would recommend doing some background research online before hitting the streets. Click here to learn more about popular artists and their stories.

Experience tango

Argentina is the place where tango originated, so you’ll definitely want to experience it for yourself. While you can catch impromptu tango acts while strolling the city, there are places you can go to guarantee a free show or lesson. You can check the schedule at Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, which regularly features free tango shows and lessons. Additionally, if you book a show at Complejo Tango, they offer a free tango lesson at 7:30 p.m. You can also head over to The Window of DGEArt, where free classes are being hosted on Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. through May 31, 2012. And on Sundays, many of the city’s cultural centers offer free tango shows.

Open-air venues also usually offer the opportunity to experience free tango. On Sundays, the Feira de San Telmo and the Recoleta Fair have live tango performances in the streets. Furthermore, you can see it at the Calle Museo Caminito, an open-air arts museum in La Boca each day.

One trick is instead of paying for a dinner and show with unlimited drinks, head over to a milonga, or a place where tango is danced. For example, the popular La Glorieta offers free entrance to their open-air milonga on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 7:00 to 10:00 p.m. Even when milongas are not free, they are usually very inexpensive and you can see some of the city’s most talented dancers.

Browse the markets

Before you think to yourself “wow, another handicraft market,” stop. The markets in Buenos Aires are unlike any I’ve ever experienced in all my travels. The best is the Feria de San Telmo, which happens every Sunday from 10:00 am until 7:00 p.m. You have your usual handmade goods, as well as many rare finds like ancient antiques, statues made of chalk, visors with built-in fans, leather masks, authentic Japanese swords from the 1600’s and much more. The fair is massive. Not only that, but street performers litter the area. You’ll get to see tango dancers, ventriloquists, mimes, opera sings, circus performers, live bands and more. Make sure to also stop at the corner of Mexico and Defense streets for some live music and delicious choripan – a thick, juicy sausage wrapped in a bread bun and topped with whatever you’d like.

There are other worthwhile markets to explore as well. The area right near the cemetery in Recoleta has a weekend market that is enormous with unique handicrafts and delicious local foods. Moreover, the Mercado de San Telmo has been running since 1897 and is open daily. Here you can find fresh meats and fish, art and antiques. Likewise, the Parque Lezama in San Telmo features a beautiful pond, sculptures and fountains as well as a handicraft fair and live shows on Saturdays and Sundays.

Take in the beauty of the many parks and squares

In Buenos Aires, picturesque parks and lively squares litter the city. You can spend days just exploring these beautiful areas. My favorite place to sunbathe and relax was San Martín Square. With beautiful Jacaranda trees, ornate statues and rolling slopes, it is a very beautiful and peaceful place. There is also the Nature Reserve in Costanera Sur, which is perfect for bird watching, hiking, exploring hidden beaches or riding a bike. Palermo Woods is also beautiful, as it is the main green area of the city. Featured are three man-made lakes, a rose garden and outdoor sculptures.

Cemeteries

While this may sound morbid, the cemeteries in Buenos Aires are unlike any I’ve ever seen in the world. The most famous cemetery to see on your visit is Recoleta Cemetery. Here you will find some of the most ornate tombs you will ever see. Some include stained glass windows, ornate statues and furniture inside these house-like mausoleums. There are many famous locals buried here like Facundo Quiroga, Juan Manuel de Rosas, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento and the world-renowned Eva “Evita” Perón.

The less famous, but just as beautiful and even bigger, La Chacarita Cemetery is also worth a visit. It is the largest cemetery in Argentina and a car is needed to drive through the whole thing. It was built due to a need for more cemetery space after a yellow fever outbreak in the late 1800’s.

Street performers and live music

If you love impromptu entertainment, Buenos Aires is the perfect place for you. Simply riding a subway or train will almost guarantee you a free show of some kind. Also, visiting any of the many fairs listed above will give you access to all kinds of street performances. Moreover, You can checkout Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, which regularly puts on free live performances on Wednesdays. If you enjoy chamber music, The Palace Noel puts on free live concerts on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 7:00 p.m. Additionally, each day from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. in La Boca is the Street Museum Caminito. It’s an outdoor art exhibition with performance art, singers, dancers and all kinds of unique acts. At night, walking around Palermo Soho will bring you face to face with various street performers on every corner.

If you’d like an indoor club type of feel, The Roxy in Palermo features free live music shows on Friday nights if you add your name to the list on the website. There’s also Breoghan Brew Pub in San Telmo on Sundays where patrons can watch a very talented jazz quartet. Furthermore, Temple Bar in Recoleta regularly features live blues and jazz bands free of charge.

While not live music, Teatro San Martin hosts a weekly music program at noon on Tuesdays and Fridays of rarely heard recordings that is refreshing, enlightening and also gives you a good excuse to checkout the inside of this famous venue.

Discover the religion of the city

Most, if not all of the churches in Buenos Aires are free to enter. First visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, thought by locals to be the city’s most important church. Take note of the black candlelight symbol on the outside of the building. This represents the remains of Argentina’s liberator, José de San Martín, as the church houses his mausoleum. There is also Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Recoleta (shown right). While not huge, the inside has ornate details and impressive furnishings worth a look. Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa, located in San Telmo, is another great church to visit. Built in the seventeenth century, it is considered by many locals as one of the most attractive buildings in the city. If you attend service, you can hear the choir sing Orthodox liturgical music.

Get competitive at a horse race

Located on Avenida del Libertador in Palermo, you will find the historical Palermo Argentinean Racetrack. Argentinians love thoroughbred horses so visiting the site is also a cultural experience. Opened in 1876, the racetrack has held competitions for the most elite thoroughbred horses. The venue is grand in design and massive in size, accommodating up to 100,000 guests. While placing bets will obviously cost you, it is free to enter and enjoy the races.

Paraty, Brazil: A Colonial Beach Paradise

by Jessica Festa on

When visiting Brazil, many people head straight to the big cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. However, there is a beach paradise located in between the two metropolises called Paraty that is a worthwhile destination no matter what your travel style is. During my trip to the area, I couldn’t get enough of the historical activities, colorful colonial buildings, beautiful beaches, adventure sports, excellent shopping and old-world charm that hasn’t changed in centuries.

Paraty is a small town and it’s almost impossible to get lost. Just because it’s not large in size, however, doesn’t mean there isn’t a lot to do. Here are some of my favorite experiences I had while exploring the village.

History

The main reason most people visit Paraty is to learn about the colonial history of the city. Paraty was built around 1600; however, it wasn’t until the 1800s that the city really made its mark on the map, as this is when gold was found in the area. During this time, the area prospered, two-story homes began to be built and Paraty became the second most important port in Brazil, as it was shipping gold to Portugal. Moreover, African slaves created cobblestone roads for transporting the gold. These have been perfectly preserved, as you can see by how uneven and not uniform they are.

It’s a bit difficult to find an affordable, English-spoken tour in the area. However, Paraty Tours on Av. Roberto Silveira was excellent for this. For about $11, I was able to get a guided walking tour of all the historical sites with a knowledgeable guide. You’ll get to learn about Antiga Cadeia, an old jail from the early eighteen century, the Morro do Forte, an ancient defense fort from 1703, and the historical churches of Igreja de Santa Rita, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário, Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores and Matriz de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios.Shopping and dining

Take a walk along the Rio Perequê-Açú. It is a very peaceful river with colorful boats, immaculate houses and people happily fishing. It is especially beautiful at night, when the sun is setting and the streetlights illuminate the water. Along the river, on its more commercial side, is a row of handicraft markets selling handmade jewelry, scarves and souvenirs.

Continue on to the carless Rua do Comércio and you will be placed in the most romantic shopping setting you’ve ever experienced. In Paraty, shops stay open until 9:00 or 10:00 p.m., so I would recommend also exploring this area after sunset. It’s really charming with illuminated cobblestone roads, boutique stores, art galleries, specialty shops, fine dining restaurants and white carts selling delicious cakes and pastries. You’ll also be able to experience an array of local and international music, as one block may be filling the air with upbeat Brazilian music and another could be blasting Akon or jazz and blues. It’s also very lively at night, as the streets are filled with locals and tourists shopping and going out for dinner and drinks. Note: Do not wear heels! While beautiful and historical, the cobblestones are very uneven and difficult to walk on. Even locals do not wear heels on this street.

If you’re hungry but don’t want to spend a lot of money, turn down Rua da Lapa and walk one block until it turns into Av. Roberto Silveira. You’ll know when you’ve hit it as there will be cars again and the charming ambiance will be replaced with a more hurried feel. Instead of going into a typical restaurant, enter one of the many Acai cafes. Brazil is well known for its delicious Acai (shown right), and these eateries not only sell juices and desserts, but usually dinner as well. My favorite was Boutique do Acai, where I was able to get a cheeseburger and bowl of acai gelato with banana slices and honey for about $4 total. They also have outdoor tables, ideal for people watching and enjoying the fresh air and surrounding palm trees.

Hiking and adventure sports

Paraty features many mountains and tropical Atlantic rainforest, so there are ample options for the hiking enthusiast. I took the bus to Laranjeras, where I was able to take a two-hour rainforest hike, which ended on a white sandy beach. There’s also a little fishing village that’s fun to explore. Getting there can be a little confusing, but not impossible. Catch the LINHA 1040 bus from the bus station, which costs 3 Reais (about $1.60) each way. The stop is towards the end of the route. However, the driver will complete the entire route without telling you where the end is, so if you don’t know where to get off, you could end up back in Paraty. The stop is at the top of the hill, once you enter the uphill community off the main road. Your best bet is to ask the driver to announce your stop. If you don’t speak Portuguese, ask someone at your hotel to write the request down on a piece of paper to show the bus driver.

Another excellent hike that will allow you to explore lush rainforest, challenging mountains, unique rock formations and paradisiacal beaches is in Trindade (pictured right). There are four beaches and Trindade is first on the hike. I usually subscribe to the thought that while certain beaches are more beautiful than others, a beach is a beach. Trindade changed my mind immediately, as unworldly rock formations scatter on one end of the beach and tropical flora sets a jungle-like background. You can also explore various hidden rock and forest alcoves, all small but very unique. To hike all four beaches while also going through patches of rainforest and stopping at Caixa d’Aço — a natural swimming pool excellent for snorkeling — you can access the trailhead at the opposite end of the beach from where the bus drops you off. It is in the area where the bars and restaurants are.

For more intense hiking, you can cross the road behind the beach and head up an opening in the mountain. I accessed a trail by first following the arrow for “Vila de Trindade.” When you’re about two-minutes uphill, there’s another sign advertising “Pousada Encontro das Àguas,” which is where the hike begins. To get to Trindade, simply take the Trindade bus from the bus station. You will see signs for the area and the beaches.

Those looking for adventure can enjoy more than just hiking. Paraty is also known for its exceptional scuba diving. In fact, multiple people in the hostel I stayed at were in Paraty specifically to become certified divers. The waters in the area are calm and clear, making for high visibility underwater. Furthermore, tropical fish and marine life make the experience really worthwhile.

Biking, kayaking, surfing, horseback riding and outdoor adventure ropes and climbing courses are also available in Paraty. Click here for more information on these activities.

Drinks

The national drink of Brazil is the caipirinha, which is so strong and delicious thanks to the special ingredient, cachaça. If you haven’t had a caipirinha in Brazil, you haven’t really had a caipirinha, as it needs this locally produced alcohol to make it truly authentic. In Paraty, you’ll not only get to sample this real-deal cocktail, but also learn how cachaça is made and sample some at one of the seven distilleries in the area. Why should you do this in Paraty? The city was known during colonial times as the most important brandy producing area in Brazil. In fact, until the mid-twentieth century, the word “Paraty” was synonymous with the word “brandy.”

If you’re in the mood to dance, Paraty 33 is an energetic club located in the historic center of the town. While fun, just know it’s also the only dance club in Paraty so it gets crowded. If you want to dance but need more space, head over to any outdoor bar in the area. I loved the popular Geko Hostel Bar, and Brazilians have no problem creating their own dance floors in the streets.

Visiting The Favela Of Rocinha In Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

by Jessica Festa on
“There were five people killed in the past two days,” Patrick, tour guide from Be A Local, whispered to me. “Even though the cops are moving the gangs, they’re trying to get back in.”

It was sunny and 85 degrees Fahrenheit that afternoon in Rio de Janeiro. In the distance, I could see trekkers climbing Sugarloaf Mountain, hang gliders whizzing through the air and kayakers taking advantage of the calm waters and beautiful beaches. So, what was I doing spending the day wandering around one of the most notoriously dangerous places in the country, the favela of Rocinha?

The previous day, I had been hanging out with a local who had told me that she thought it was an interesting and eye-opening experience, and even she had done a favela tour. In Rio, colorful hillside favelas dot the landscape just as much as beaches and mountains. If you want to really get to know the whole personality of Rio de Janeiro, you should consider visiting one — with a tour, of course, as these places can be unsafe to enter alone.

This is what brought me to Rocinha, instead of the beach, on that beautiful day. For those who don’t know what a favela is, it’s basically a slum or shantytown. Rocinha is the biggest favela in Brazil, and one of the largest in the world. While a 2010 census found there to be about 70,000 occupants, many believe there are actually more than 150,000. The favela is so big it is actually considered a neighborhood with its own neighborhood association. While many of the houses do have basic amenities and the town has shopping and cultural opportunities, it is still not somewhere you want to hangout alone. Concrete buildings aren’t made of concrete because it looks nice; they’re made that way because it gives extra protection from bullets over brick homes. At the bottom of the hill, you will find sewage, garbage and crumbling homes due to poor foundation. The smell in the air flips between rotten eggs and sewage to sweet cakes and sizzling meats, as you stumble through narrow alleys and over uneven rock, decaying wood and twisted wires.

Usually, the way a favela works is the people who live in them do not pay taxes. However, since November of 2011, police forces have taken over the streets in an attempt to clean up the area. Now residents do pay taxes and the cable and electric that was once illegally installed in homes is accounted for. Furthermore, police have been able to move gangs that had been wreaking havoc over the favela, although there are still problems with these groups trying to invade. Still, I was surprised that with all the corruption, disease and drug dealings Rocinha is known for, there are facilities like clothing shops, medical facilities, dance schools, art galleries, bakeries and even a daycare center. The favela has a rich culture and many of the residents are friendly, especially the energetic children that dance and smile in the streets.




One reason for the improvement in quality of life is these people who would once beg for money now are being told they must earn it. Whether through baking, painting, dancing, or drumming – as you can see in my video above – many of these people are now working hard to make money. Moreover, a samba school, ballet school, and music school are also in the favela, allowing for youths to become involved in extracurricular activities. At the bottom of the hill, a sports complex offering boxing, martial arts, capoeira, football, volleyball, swimming, surfing and more is offered, free of charge, as long as the family’s children are enrolled in school. The city is planning to also install cable cars and funiculars, to help those who work in the city and children in school get home in an easier and safer way. Events in the favela like marathons, boxing matches, and dance competitions are also giving the area something positive to focus on.

While walking around the favela, it was clear there is a lot of room for improvement. However, it is also obvious there are people living there with a lot of potential who want to do something good with their lives. The area holds a lot of culture- and the best view of Rio in town- it just needs to remove the dirt and grime hiding its beauty. At least 20% of Rio de Janeiro’s population lives in favelas, and most of them are good people who just want to put a roof over their heads. Hopefully, the new favela pacification program can continue to help bring a higher quality of life to these people.