Hiking and politics in the Basque region’s Grand Canyon

by Sean McLachlan on


“The Basques have the oldest history in Europe,” says Dr. Alberto Santana, historian and co-founder of Aunia, a Basque cultural magazine. “We have been here since the Stone Age and have the most distinct language in the world. There are some 6,000 languages in 12 language families. Basque is in a family by itself.”

The Basque language, Euskara, is the heart of Basque identity, he tells our hiking group. In Euskadi a Basque is a Euskaldunak (“one who owns the Basque language”) and the Basque region is Euskal Herria (“the land of those who speak Basque”). Yet only 28% of Basques can actually speak it. At a corner shop in Orduña, where we’re staying as we tour Spain’s Basque region, I only find books in Spanish, including a cookbook on Basque cuisine.

The Basques straddle the border of Spain and France, an independent people who have never had independence. Santana’s statement that they can trace their heritage back to the Stone Age isn’t nationalistic chest thumping; it’s the prevailing opinion among archaeologists and linguists. The theory is borne out by the language itself. For example, the word for “knife” is aizto, which translates literally as “stone that cuts”.

%Gallery-124109%While they may still talk about stone tools, the source of Basque wealth was iron. Basque foundries fueled the Spanish Empire. Basques were Spain’s great shipbuilders too.

He goes on to list several important Basques. Two names stick out. Juan Sebastián Elcano captained Magellan’s ship after the famous explorer was killed in the Philippines. It was Elcano, not Magellan, who circumnavigated the globe. The South American leader Simón de Bolívar came from a Basque family. Dr. Santana then talks about the sufferings of the Basque people during the Spanish Civil War, especially the infamous bombing of Guernica, leveled by the Luftwaffe. The slaughter was immortalized in Picasso’s famous painting.

“What about ETA?” a man in the audience asks after Dr. Santana finishes his lecture.

ETA is a terrorist group fighting for Basque independence. Formed in 1959, they’ve killed more than 800 people. People like Diego Armando Estacio and Carlos Alonso Palate, two Ecuadorians killed when ETA set off a bomb at Madrid’s Barajas airport in 2006. Talking about Basque history without mentioning ETA is like talking about Irish history without mentioning the IRA.

Santana pauses for a moment, obviously choosing his words carefully before saying, “ETA is a radical and violent organization formed by students during the Franco dictatorship. At that time giving a lecture like this one was illegal. I would be arrested. Now ETA is nearing its end. It’s leaders are looking for a way to end it. You will probably see its end this year.”

Indeed, I’m hiking through the Basque region at a critical period in its history. Local elections are being held across Spain. In the Basque region Bildu, a separatist party, is the newcomer and potential game-changer. It was legalized only last month. Many Spaniards believe it has ties to ETA and much of the public is strongly against it being allowed to run. The courts decided to legalize it, perhaps in the hope that with political representation, Basque nationalists will turn their backs on ETA.

Today we’re hiking far away from politics, or so I think. We ascend a steep slope, passing flocks of long-haired sheep and stout horses grazing on rich grass. While Basque ports made their mark on world history with whaling and shipbuilding, most Basques made their living as farmers or herdsmen. It’s these towns and villages that preserved the Basque language and traditions, and it’s in the rural areas where you’ll hear the most Basque spoken today.

Besides a couple of hikers sharing a bottle of wine, we see nobody. After a further climb we’re treated to a stunning view of the Nervion Canyon, a sheer drop of 2,000 feet. The canyon widens out to the north, opening onto rolling cultivated fields and little villages of red-roofed houses.

We head south, where the walls of the canyon close in on each other, finally meeting. The sheer gray rock looks impossible to climb, but in the shade of one overhang a couple of hundred feet down we see a herd of goats sitting away from the sun’s glare. In the air we see Griffon Vultures wheel and dive.

These are the largest vultures in Europe and they favor these high pastures, hoping to feast on a dead sheep or goat. When we stop for a picnic, one member of our group stretches out for a rest on the grass some distance from us. The vultures circle lower and lower above him. They must realize he’s alive because they never land to pick at his flesh. He continues to enjoy his vacation and I miss out on a chance for Gadling’s Photo of the Year.

As we continue, we come to a pair of man-made walls about two miles long. They form a giant triangle, mirroring the natural triangle of the canyon, but instead of ending at a cliff, they end at a deep pit.

“This is a lobera,” our guide Josu explains. “When wolves were common here the people from all the villages would beat drums and pots to scare the wolves into this space. They’d fall into the pit and could then be killed.”

Wolves still roam the mountains not far from here. Like in the U.S., there’s an ongoing controversy between farmers, environmentalists, the government, and pretty much everyone else about how to handle the predators. Should they be protected? Farmers worry about their flocks. Should they be hunted? Hikers worry about people prowling the countryside with guns. Should they be kept away entirely? Environmentalists say this species needs to spread to survive.

Like with human politics, the politics of nature has no easy answers.

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Beyond Bilbao: Hiking through the Basque region.

This trip was sponsored by Country Walkers. The views expressed in this series, however, are entirely my own.

Hiking through Spain’s Basque region

by Sean McLachlan on


Most tourists who visit Spain stick to the central and southern parts of the country–Madrid, Granada, Seville, Barcelona, and the Costa del Sol. They generally skip the greener, more temperate north. If they head north at all, it’s to stop in Bilbao in Spain’s Basque region to see the Guggenheim.

Yet the Basque region has much more to offer. In Spain, it’s an Autonomous Community, something more than a province and less than a country. The Basques have never had their own nation but have a fierce sense of independence. With a distinctive culture and unique language, as well as a deep history and beautiful landscape, the Basque region rewards those who want to see more than the usual Spanish sights.

I’ve joined Country Walkers to hike through Spain’s Basque region and even pop into the Basque region of France. Every day I’ll be hiking through a different part of this varied landscape, meeting farmers, priests, chefs, and historians, while sampling the local cuisine. That’s the sort of tour Country Walkers offers: hikes every day, and then plenty of local cuisine and wine to get rid of the bad effects of all that unnecessary exercise.

%Gallery-123934%The first day’s hike starts at Retes de Llanteno, a village so small it doesn’t even have a bar. Anyone who has been to rural Europe knows exactly how small that is. It does have a lovely little church, however, with a bell tower covered in curling vines. As we unload our gear an old man standing by the road asks Josu, one of our Basque guides, where we’re headed.

“The Tower of Quejana,” he says. “We’re taking the old mule track.”

The old man looks surprised. Nobody uses that track anymore, and in fact Josu had to go along the trail a month ago and hack away the vines.

“My father used to use that track,” the old man remembers.

Josu explains to us that mule tracks used to connect villages, but in the age of the automobile that intimate connection has been lost. People are more likely to drive to the nearest big city than visit the next village over. He’s reopening the tracks in the hope of restoring that connection, as well as attracting hikers.

The rains and rich soil have covered up most traces of his work. We duck under branches and trip over creepers. The woman in front of me stumbles, sending a thorny branch thwapping into my face, then she slips and undercuts my feet. We both end up in the mud. I pick myself up and start to remove ticks.

Soon we’re through the woods and climbing up a steep, open field under a blue sky. The contrast with the dark, damp forest couldn’t be greater. We keep climbing, up and up, until we reach a high promontory with a sweeping view of the valley below in three directions. We’re only ten miles from the sea, and I think I can detect a salty tang to the cool breeze.

This was a Celtic hill fort during the Iron Age, before the Romans conquered the region. A double set of walls protected perhaps 300 people, and its position ensured a good view over the entire region. Forts like this are found on hilltops all over Europe. I visited a Pictish hill fort very much like it in Scotland.

“See that far mountain peak?” Josu says as he points to a distant summit, “That’s Anboto, a mountain sacred to Mari. She’s an old goddess who’s very popular with the Basques.”

The Basques may still honor an ancient goddess, but they’re good Catholics too, as we discover when we explore the hilltop. Little porcelain figures of the baby Jesus and Mary are preserved under glass bowls, left as offerings by devout hikers.

Another mile or so over rolling hills and we come to Josu’s home, where his wife Begonia has prepared a huge lunch of local cheeses, chorizo, freshly baked bread, and vegetables. There’s also a generous amount of txakoli, a sparkling white wine for which the Basque region is famous. Light and refreshing, it’s a good wine to drink while taking a break from a hike.

“People talk about the slow food movement, with all the ingredients coming from local sources,” Josu says with a shrug. “We just call that Basque food.”

This is hardly unique to the Basque region. One of the joys of traveling in Spain is trying out all the local specialties. Village butchers often have game shot the day before, restaurants in small towns serve vegetables taken from the back garden, and every region seems to have its own wine.

Stuffed and a bit buzzed, we put on our packs and head out to our goal–the medieval convent and fortress of Quejana. It was built by Pedro López de Ayala in the 14th century. He ruled the local area with an iron hand, and became famous as one of the pioneers of the Spanish language when he wrote some of the first poetry in the language. He also wrote a veterinary manual for birds and was an adviser to both Castilian and French kings. The alabaster tombs of he and his relations grace the interior of the chapel, and a soaring church with a grandiose gilt altar stands close by.

A climb up the tower that defended these lands gives a good view of the surrounding countryside. The green hills and thick forests are so unlike the common picture of Spain. The tower gives some insight into more recent Spanish politics too. During the 1970s the tower was crumbling. The government was still ruled by General Franco, the Fascist dictator who was the victor of the Spanish Civil War. Franco showed a rather medieval attitude to the Basques and is the cause of many of the political tensions today. He gave money for the tower to be restored, but the top part was rebuilt not as it would have looked when Pedro lived there. Instead, it was rebuilt to look like a Castilian tower.

In this part of Europe, you can’t get away from politics even at a historic site.

This is the first in a new series: Beyond Bilbao: Hiking through the Basque region.

This trip was sponsored by Country Walkers. The views expressed in this series, however, are entirely my own.

Summer travel: European beach destinations

by Matthew Firestone on

With the summer holiday season just around the corner, it’s never too early to start planning your escape to the beach. For many Americans, this means balmy Floridian shores, the sun-kissed Californian coast, far-flung Hawaiian islands or hedonistic Caribbean resorts.

But if you’re looking for a slice of culture alongside your generous helpings of sea and sand, then consider escaping to one (or several) European beach destinations. A quick jaunt across the pond is all that separates you from basking in glorious Mediterranean climes.

The French Riviera is arguably the most glamorous destination on the continent, but the surprising diversity of European beaches easily caters to travelers of all budget levels. Therein lies the real appeal as you can seek out whatever wave-lapped strip of land that happens to take your fancy.

On that note, we’re proud to kick off our summer travel round-ups by highlighting five European beach destinations that we can’t stop thinking about. Although this list is by no means exhaustive, we’re hoping that it inspires you to dig out the swimsuits from your closet’s nether regions.If your bags are packed with beachwear, flip flops, an absorbent towel and the proper amount of skin-healthy sunscreen, then you’re ready for the following locales:

Barcelona The capital of Catalunya, the second most populous city in Spain and home to the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona isn’t exactly the first place that comes to mind when you think European beaches. But the city is actually hemmed in by a series of attractive beaches, including the mile-long Playa de la Barceloneta.

Although it’s definitely not the most beautiful beach in the bunch, Barceloneta wins in the category of convenience. It’s actually accessible by metro, which provides ample opportunities for urban denizens to tomar el sol or ‘drink the sun.’ Best part: tapas bars line the beach, ensuring that you’re never too far away from a glass of wine, flaky bread, dried meats, ripe cheeses and all manners of cured olives.

Nice While there are certainly glitzier destinations along the French Riviera (we’re looking at you, Saint-Tropez!), Nice is distinguished by its rich cultural heritage – and fantastic seafood. The old town is home to a series of pedestrian-built squares lined with alfresco cafes and bistros. Menus pay homage to the local proverb: ‘Fish are born in the sea, and die in olive oil.’

The beach itself is fronted by the Promenade des Anglais or ‘Promenade of the English,’ which was commissioned by wealthy English vacationers in the 18th century. Today, La Prom (as it is affectionately known by locals) is perfect for a leisurely stroll while staring out into the azure expanses of the Mediterranean. C’est Magnifique.

Balearic Islands This archipelago floating off the southeastern coast of Spain is comprised of fifty major and minor islands including Majorca, Minorca, Formentera, Cabrera and Ibiza. The geography here is dramatic, with rocky coastlines punctuated by sheltered swaths of postcard-perfect sandy beaches.

Ibiza in particular is regarded as Europe’s ultimate summer clubbing destination. The island plays host to some of the world’s top chill-out bars and dance clubs including Cafe del Mar, Space and Pacha. From June to October, this is where you’ll find the top DJs on the electronic music scene, not to mention thronging crowds of party-crazed revelers.

Sardinia Although Sicily is Italy’s most famous island destination, when it comes to beaches you need to head a bit further west out to sea. Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean, has a history of human occupation dating back to the Phoenicians. Here you’ll find ruined cities of Punic columns and colonnaded streets in addition to stately medieval settlements and a few modern commercial hubs.

When it comes to beaches, Sardinia is most definitely a heavy-hitter. The coastline is rough and rugged, with immense caverns that have been slowly carved out by the pounding surf. In gentler stretches, powder-white strips of sand nestle protected grottos and tranquil lagoons. Outside of the resort towns, you can cruise ocean highways in the seat of your favorite Italian sports car.

Greek Islands Something of a right of passage amongst the backpacking set, island-hopping in Greece is all about the pursuit of pleasure. From slow-lunches of feta-strewn salads to late-night tumblers of anise-scented ouzo, Greece is quite literally a feast for the senses.

For those in search of bronze glory, there are more than 6000 Aegean, Ionian, Cycladean and Dodecanese islands to choose from. But if we had to narrow it down a bit more, we’d focus on the following: Mykonos for its beach chic, Kos for its seclusion and serenity, Corfu for its elegant vistas, Santorini for its artistic inspiration and Crete for its archaeological underpinnings.

Hvar For a taste of up and coming Europe, look no further than the northeastern shores of the Adriatic Sea. Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast is fringed with pine forests, dotted with red-tiled cities and defined by curvaceous bays and floating islets. Prices are on the rise following the introduction of the euro, yet Croatia still remains an affordable corner of a generally expensive continent.

Anywhere in Dalmatia will do you some good, but we’re personally hooked on Hvar. This limestone island is drenched in sunlight, scented with lavender and home to a burgeoning wine industry. Don’t miss Dubovica Beach, which lies next to a stone-hewn village that appears to have leapt out from the pages of a fairy tale.

Did we leave out one of your favorite European beach destinations? Most likely as there are far too many noteworthy spots to list in one blog post. But that’s why we’re inviting you to chime in and let us know what we missed. Be they classic tourist spots or veritable hidden gems, European beaches might just be some of the most enviable destinations for summer travel.

** All images are courtesy of the Wikicommons Media Project **

Video of the day: The Mountain, El Teide, Spain

by Elizabeth Seward on

The Mountain from Terje Sorgjerd on Vimeo.

This video by Terje Sorgjerd, called “The Mountain”, came into my Tumblr feed yesterday. I’ve watched it several times since that first breathtaking viewing and I’m still in awe. This time lapse video was filmed on El Teide–Spain‘s highest mountain. The mountain is reportedly one of the best places in the world to view the stars and the Teide Observatories call the mountain home.

The video was shot between April 4th-11th, 2011. Sorgjerd is a landscape photographer from Norway and, according the video’s Vimeo description, didn’t spend much time sleeping during this week-long shoot. With stunning views of the stars, the trees, and even a sandstorm that rolled through during the shoot, watching this video is an easy way to brighten your day in just a few minutes.

Photo of the day – monastery in the mountains

by Meg Nesterov on

It’s appropriate that this cable car in Montserrat, Spain leads to a monastery, because I’d be praying the whole ride that we made it safely. Perhaps other visitors are less height-adverse because this is one of the most important religious sites in Spain, with many people making the trek each year up the mountain to pray at the sanctuary. It’s not just for pilgrims: Santa Maria de Montserrat is home to one of the oldest printing presses in the world, a museum with such art biggies as Picasso and Dali, and a nature park with some stunning views of Catalonia. Want to visit? It’s about an hour from Barcelona, more visiting details here. Thanks to Flickr user othernel for making the climb.

Want to share your favorite travel photos with us? Add them to the Gadling Flickr pool and we may just use it for a future Photo of the Day.