Finding the Holy Spirit in Baja: A park is born

by Jason Heflin on

Roughly twenty miles off the coast from the Baja town of La Paz lies a desert island no more than ten miles long and four miles wide. For centuries the locals have fished the bountiful waters surrounding Isla Espiritu Santo, or Island of the Holy Spirit. Scores of grouper, snapper, and a variety of fish in the jack family are snagged by locals and visitors daily. However, in recent years, tourists have been flocking to the island not just to fish but to kayak, snorkel, and photograph the diverse array of wildlife that it contains. Up until 2003, there was little regulation for any of the activities taking place on Espiritu Santo and it’s surrounding islands and islets. The tourists that visit, and those that fish the waters, are still trying to come to grips with the island’s new found fame.

According to The Nature Conservancy the island was purchased from the Ejido Bonfil community and then turned over to Mexico. It was designated as a protected area in 1978; the Mexican government acquired the island in 2003. Although all the islands making up this archipelago are now a national park, management resources are scarce.

Spending a week camped out in a sandy bay, I had the opportunity to meet someone with a passion for what happens to this beautiful place, a local guide named Miguel. According to him, as of last year, only two rangers were patrolling the coastline of this 23,383 acre island. As we paddled together throughout the week, I learned more on why the island is struggling.

Large scale commercial fishing is not allowed. Long netting, a form of dredging, is now strictly prohibited as well. Local fishermen have had a tough time coping with the new regulations being passed down to them. As hard as it may be to believe many of these people have no experience with a fishing pole and are using the arduous method of hand-lining to maintain a living. Hand-lining involves dropping a baited hook overboard and pulling a fish in on the line with no rod or reel. After trying this method I can vouch that hand-lining is a tough chore on the hands to say the least.

According to Miguel, the lack of information from authorities initially led to misunderstandings. The fishing community was not exactly pleased with the changes being made when the island went under the wing of the government. Rules included restrictions on certain popular species such as parrot fish. Although dropping explosives in the water or “dynamiting” is outlawed and a thing of the past, fishermen can still be found pushing the limits of the law. Fish are encircled by boats to create a bait ball which makes them easier targets.
Fishermen are allowed to stay overnight on the island in designated spots called “fisherman shacks.” They can use nets to catch bait fish only. Since most fishing boats are equipped with nets and regulation is slim, it is uncertain how many stick to the strictly “bait only” rule for netting.

Although fishing regulations were the main management issue at first, the new threat to Espirtu’s land and waters is unchecked tourism. On Los Islotes, an islet resting just off the rocky shores of Isla Partida, Espiritu’s northern neighbor, the sea lions sun bathe most of the day, awaiting their nocturnal hunt. Snorkeling with these graceful swimmers is a treat for visitors. These dog-like sea mammals dart in and out of underwater grottos, play with starfish and shells, and encircle the odd looking human insurgents to get a better look. While visiting this islet, our snorkel group was not alone. Another tourist boat anchored nearby and within minutes a few of the passengers were on the shore, ignoring the rule that tourists must stay 50 feet away at all times.
In summer, when La Paz receives its annual influx of Mexican and European tourists, the island’s shores become overrun. “There have been times when it was so crowded we couldn’t find a place to anchor when we pulled up to see the sea lions,” Miguel told me. Despite these growing pains park attendance continues to soar, and for good reason. The island’s shores are home to one of the most biologically diverse bodies of water on our planet.

Next: Darwin would be proud (Part 2)

More Americans pay up to get out

by Tom Johansmeyer on

The outbound non-stop air passenger market grew 6 percent from March 2009 to March 2010, reflecting a 3 percent gain for the first quarter year-over-year. An estimated 3.3 million people hopped flights from the United States in March this year, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce, with the total reaching 8.6 million for the first three months.

Air travel to all international markets ticked higher from March to March, except Mexico, which was flat. The Caribbean, Asia, Canada, the Middle East, Oceania and Africa posted double-digit gains. For the first quarter, outbound passenger traffic from the United States grew in five of the eight international markets – Oceana, the Middle East and Africa showed double-digit gain.

More and more people are flying, and the trend is picking up steam, as evidenced by the fact that the March growth rate was higher than that for the first quarter.

And, we’re spending more money on these flights. U.S. travelers on foreign carriers spent $2.3 billion in March 2010, up 8 percent from March 2009.

Recession reveals Baby Boomer travel limits

by Tom Johansmeyer on

When I was back in the corporate strategy world, all the talk was about the Baby Boomers. That generation had the bucks – and the inclination – to do whatever it wanted. And, it was ready to follow through … to the point where consumer product manufacturers and hospitality companies were ready to cater to this large generation’s every whim. Well, the latest research from travel industry-watcher PhoCusWright suggests that the recession beat the Boomers down in 2009.

Nobody thought 2009 would be a great year for the travel industry … according to PhoCusWright (and everyone else). Leisure travel feel 11 percent year over year, which wasn’t exactly shocking. What is interesting is that the Baby Boomers backed off a little earlier than other generations, due largely to the fact that they are on the brink of retirement. Every dollar, of course, needs to be considered against the “rest of life” standard.

The Boomers, described as age 55 to 64, stand in stark contrast to the prior decade, which spent more time on the road in 2009. Young people, on the other hand (age 18 to 24) posted a 15 percent decline in travel. Broke kids with disposable income, it seems, don’t have as much disposable income as they used to … or they can’t sponge off their parents as much when they’re in a bind.

Foreign travelers to U.S. dropped more than $30bn in first quarter

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Travel spending bounced higher March, even though the bar was set pretty low. Foreign visitors spent an estimated $10.8 billion on travel to and tourism-related activities in the United States that month. That’s an increase of nearly $1.1 billion – or 11 percent – over March 2010. So, travel exports grew for the second month in a row, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce.

Foreign visitors to the United States generated $2.4 billion in passenger fare receipts (the cash paid to get to or from the United States) and $8.4 billion in travel receipts (everything else) in March. Travel receipts were up 13 percent, with passenger fare receipts gaining 6 percent year over year.

For the first quarter of 2010, international visitors dropped almost $31.8 billion on travel and tourism – up 4 percent. Americans spent $25.5 billion abroad during the same period.

Why tourists are a good thing

by Mike Barish on

A tremendous amount of space on the internet has been wasted on the Tourists versus Travelers debate. We’ve been known to touch on it here at Gadling from time-to-time. But, at the end of the day, it’s all wasted breath and pissing contests. To the people who stand on soapboxes of “authenticity,” have you ever stopped to think that tourists are a good thing? That tourism is beneficial to local people and culture? That there’s room in the travel landscape for differing approaches, ideologies and perspectives? At the end of the day, tourists are a good thing.

Shocked to read that statement? You shouldn’t be. Putting the pithy debate aside, there are simple positive facts about tourists that are undeniable. You don’t have to like them. You don’t have to travel like they do. Heck, you can keep blogging with an elitist tone against them for all we care. But their existence makes life better for everyone.Those fanny packs carry wallets

Tourists spend money. They pay sales tax and hotel taxes. They pay for admission to museums, purchase meals at restaurants and tip cab drivers. That money goes back to local governments where it is spent on programs that benefit locals. It funds the upkeep of those museums, allows the owners and staff at those restaurants to put food on their own tables and helps the cabbies make a decent living to support their families.

Appreciating the unappreciated

Quick, name the last museum or major attraction that you visited in your hometown. Do you even remember when you went there? We tend to overlook the places that make our hometowns special. Ask a New Yorker when he last went to the Statue of Liberty or the American Museum of Natural History and you are likely to hear tales of elementary school field trips. The places that people list when asked why their city is worthy of respect are the same places that locals tend to neglect. You know who doesn’t neglect them? Tourists. While locals are busy either living their day-to-day lives or feeling too smug to go to the “touristy parts of town,” visitors are enjoying fantastic views, brilliants works of art and creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Everyone deserves a break

Sure, you enjoy exploring lost civilizations, eating unusual foods and collecting stamps in your passport. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Heck, we love that stuff, too. But, some people just want to escape their lives for a week, unplug and relax. Don’t those people deserve to take a week off of work, go on a cruise or hang out on South Beach without being judged? No one is making you travel in any way other than how you enjoy it. Let others do the same. If someone’s definition of a good time is skipping out of work for a week to take their kids to Disney World, more power to them!

Bragging rights

You know how New Yorkers act as if we live in the center of the universe? You know where that attitude comes from? When we travel to other places, people are always eager to ask us about New York. Or they tell us about the time they visited New York. Or they speak enthusiastically about how badly they want to go to New York. It’s an ego boost. Having people adore your hometown is wonderful. This phenomenon is by no means unique to to New York. The people of Chicago wanted to host the 2016 Summer Olympics so badly because they wanted to show off their city for the whole world to see. South Africa is bursting at the seams with pride as they ready to welcome the world for the 2010 World Cup. Every town, city and country holds its proverbial head up hight when they see visitors enjoying themselves. It’s why tourism boards exist. It’s why towns host festivals. We’re all proud of where we live and we want other people to know why. Tourists are those other people.

It’s all travel

My childhood trips were to all-inclusive Caribbean resorts, Disney World, visits to my grandparents and other good old-fashioned family vacations. And you know something – I loved those trips. I remember them fondly. I wish I could go on Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride again. It was way more fun than some of the things I’ve experienced as a “traveler” in far away lands. Those touristy trips helped shape who I am and, perhaps more importantly, gave me quality time with my family. I may travel differently now than I did as a child, but I enjoy and appreciate those differences and what I’ve experienced because of them.

You have to start somewhere

If you still think that travelers are better than tourists, consider this: were you savvy, worldly and cultured when you took your first trip? Or did you carry a large map in your backpack, get frustrated by cultural differences and scope out the top five things listed in your guidebook? Not everyone is born ready for an immersion experience when they travel. For some, simply getting on a plane or spending time away from home is a huge step that is not taken lightly. Being a tourist comes more naturally to people. Being a “citizen of the world” takes experience, confidence and trust. Not everyone gets there. Not everyone wants to.

It’s so crowded, no one goes there anymore

Yogi Berra summed it up as only he can. No one likes crowds when they’re traveling. The “travelers” of the world often eschew the hot spots listed in guidebooks and tourist areas because of the crowds. They avoid tours, ignore landmarks and stick to the fringe while judging those who wait in lines with the masses. But what if those masses suddenly all became “travelers?” The fringe would get awfully crowded. The fact that people have varying interests keeps everyone dispersed. If we all did the same thing – be it the touristy activities or the “authentic” adventures – we’d all be stuck in the very crowds that we loathe.

There’s a gray area

Why can people only be a traveler or a tourist? Can’t you go off on wild adventures, eat bizarre foods and then also climb the Eiffel Tower or gawk at Times Square? Who among us hasn’t purchased a kitschy souvenir that we’ve gone on to cherish? Or taken a picture with our waiter at some campy restaurant? The traveler-tourist debate isn’t about some linear spectrum of authenticity. If anything, it’s a Venn diagram. There’s overlap. Because, at the end of the day, both groups are going places and experiencing new things. There is a common ground and it’s a pretty fertile ground if you asked me.

Tourism is a good thing. It feeds city coffers, puts money in locals’ pockets and allows people to escape their troubles and simply relax.

Rather than judging others and assigning gravitas to various types of travel, it’s time that we embraced everyone under one tent. Tourists aren’t bad. They’re people living their lives and having a lot of fun doing it. Besides, we’re all tourists at some point. Usually it’s when we’re walking slowly and taking a picture of a street sign. That’s when we’re annoying. But the pictures are fun.