The weather delay blues

Ahh… travel. It can be such a magnificent, wonderful thing. Exploring other cultures, visiting beautiful destinations, and sampling local cuisines are all magically sublime experiences. But when things don’t quite go as planned, it can be an extremely frustrating affair. One that makes us wonder why we ever left home in the first place.

I received a sobering reminder of this little fact just this past week while preparing to head out of the country on yet another travel adventure. My destination was suppose to be San Pedro de Atacama, a quaint little village located in a mountainous desert region of northern Chile. Little did I know however, that I would spend all day in airports and on airplanes, just to eventually arrive back where I began the day. What could possibly have kept me from reaching my destination you ask? Why the very lovely Mother Nature of course!

My travel day began innocuously enough. I boarded a plane bound for Dallas, Texas from my hometown of Austin. The weather was a bit overcast, but didn’t appear particularly threatening. After all, Austin is in the middle of a bad drought, and we haven’t had any significant rainfall in weeks. That pattern held up, and soon I was on a short, 35-minute flight to the Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport. The flight is so short in fact, that the airline doesn’t even bother to roll out the drink cart.

After arriving safely at DFW, I quickly scanned the departures board and found the gate for my flight to Miami, where I would eventually catch an over-nighter to Santiago. With two hours to spare, I casually strolled over to the gate, grabbing some lunch en route, and settled in to get some work done while I waited the start of the next leg of my journey. Those couple of hours passed rather quickly, and before I knew it, I was walking down the jetway to board the plane. It was only then that the forces of nature began to conspire against me, plotting to send me spiraling down into a ring of Hell that even Dante hadn’t imagined.

As I approached the entrance to the plane, I could hear the sounds of the wind howling on the other side of the thin walls of the jetway. Worse yet, it was gusting to such a degree that the entire structure was swaying back in fourth, causing some of the passengers to scramble for a handhold. Outside, the clouds had turned an ominous shade of black, and by the time I reached my seat at the rear of the plane, the rain was falling in sheets and lighting crackled across the sky in intricate spiderweb patterns.

It soon became abundantly clear that we weren’t going anywhere for awhile, but knowing that I had a three-hour window to catch my international flight in Miami, I didn’t panic in the least. Instead, I nestled into my seat, pulled out my laptop, and tried to take advantage of the time to be a bit productive. Two hours later, I was still being productive and we still hadn’t gone anywhere.

It was about this time that frustration began to set in. Circumstances beyond my control were keeping me grounded in Dallas, and that window for catching my next flight was rapidly closing. I kept telling myself that if we got in the air soon, perhaps we could make up some time, and I could still catch that flight. I knew that if I didn’t make it, it meant spending the night, not to mention the entire next day, in Miami, just to catch another over night flight to Chile. Considering my time in South America wasn’t going to be that long to begin with, that didn’t sound like a very appealing proposition.

Another hour passed and we continued to sit on the ground. All hopes of reaching Miami in time were dashed, and my frustration had turned into a feeling of helplessness. I had just spent the last three hours on a very warm, very crowded, plane that hadn’t moved an inch. On top of that, a foul odor had begun to waft its way out of the bathroom, which was located just two rows of seats behind me. It was as if the stench had somehow become sentient, and decided to come out to join the rest of us. Fortunately, the flight attendants had passed out water and granola bars in a vane attempt to make everything better. It didn’t really help the situation much however.

It was about this time that they decided to open the door to the plane and allow us to stretch our legs if we were so inclined. I took the opportunity to stroll out to the concourse and make a few phone calls, one of which was to my contact handling the trip to Chile. After a brief conversation about the situation, we agreed to call off the trip and reschedule it for another time. This decision immediately brought my level of frustration down. I would no longer have to deal with a stay in Miami, and it meant that I could go home to my own bed, provided the airline was feeling cooperative. A wonderful sense of relief and calm came over me. The feeling wouldn’t last.

As I got in line to talk to the gate agent about my options, I took the opportunity to glance around the airport. With the weather still preventing flights in or out, the place was jam packed with people, all sharing the same emotions that I was. We all simply wanted to get to our destinations, and we wanted to know that somehow everything was going to be all right. By now 6 PM, and flights weren’t really moving all that much, but the skies had cleared, the rain had moved off, and there was a faint glimmer of hope in the air.

As I stood in line waiting, and waiting, and then waiting some more, I kept my fingers crossed that I could get a flight back to Austin that night. If not, I told myself, I could always rent a car and drive home. After all, it’s only about a three hour drive, and it was still relatively early in the evening. Later, as the night dragged on, I would come to wish that I had rented a car, as it would have meant that I would have gotten home at a much earlier hour.

The line moved incredibly slow. For some reason, there was only one person at the counter trying to help a very long line of customers. Other employees came and went on a regular basis, occasionally stopping long enough to hop on a second computer terminal, punch away at the keyboard for awhile, mutter a few things under their breath, and then slink off into the sea of humanity that surrounded us, never to be seen again. It was disheartening to stand there with the line not moving, sometimes for as much as 15 to 20 minutes, while the lone gate agent assisted a single person.

Now, I don’t want to say specifically which airline it was that I was dealing with, suffice as to say that it is an American airline, if you get my not so subtle drift. Obviously, not being the CEO of a major airlines, I don’t want to tell them how to run their business, but it seems that a little customer service would have gone a long way that day. For instance, breaking out the food and drink cart after the first, or even the second hour, stuck on the tarmac would have been good. Perhaps having a few more qualified staff to help work though the long lines would have been a wise choice as well.

Eventually I did reach the counter, and the woman at the terminal was very nice and helpful. Without much of an effort at all, she was able to rebook me on a flight back to Austin, and after just a few minutes, and several thousand clicks of her keyboard, she printed me a boarding pass for an 8:15 flight that had already been delayed until 9:00 PM. I thanked her profusely and happy to be heading home, I went off in search of my gate, which was listed as B24 on the video monitors. Just a half-dozen gates away from where I currently stood. After gathering up a drink and some snacks, I was soon settled in once again, and busily typing away on my computer.

After about another 45 minutes or so, I thought it might be a good idea to check the departures board once again just to make sure I was still at the right gate. After all, the airport was a mess, and gate changes are not uncommon in these situations. Gathering my things I wandered over to a nearby monitor and found that my plane had been moved to Gate C10, which wasn’t just a short distance away at all, but actually in an entirely different terminal. It was 8 PM however and I still had plenty of time. With that in mind, I didn’t panic, I simply set off to find the tram that would carry me to the C concourse, where I could resume waiting for a lift home.

Ten minutes later I was exiting the train and wandering down a flight of steps in the new terminal, when I happened to glance at yet another monitor listing the gates of departure. I had just stepped off the escalator, and my eyes locked on the listing for my flight to Austin. The gate read D21. Yep, in the time it had taken me to ride the train over to Terminal C, they had moved my jet to another gate once again, and it was in yet another building.

Promptly turning around, I marched right back up the stairs, waited for the next tram, and zipped on over to Terminal D. At this point, I was really getting the tour of DFW, and wondered if perhaps I would be visiting yet another terminal before the night was through. After all, there were still two other buildings I hadn’t been to yet.

As I exited the train once again, and wandered down the stairs toward Gate D21, I heard a voice come over the loud speaker, and I swear on my life, it was announcing yet another gate change for my flight. This time it was only moved a few spots down however, finally settling in at Gate D29. With a heavy sigh, I wandered over to this final spot, only to see that the flight time had been adjusted from 9:00 PM to 9:35. That seemed about par for the course for the day.

It was about 10:15 when we finally began boarding the plane. While we stood in line some of the passengers began to share war stories about how bad their day was. The conversations went back and fourth in an odd game of one-upmanship, with each tale of woe sounding worse than the last. I shut a lot of them up by simply saying “I’m suppose to be on a flight to South America right now.”

Eventually we all shuffled onto the plane and found our seats, settling in once again. There were murmurs of appreciation for what should be a short flight back to Austin, but some of us held our breath and took a wait-and-see attitude. That same feeling began to pervade over the others as we once again sat at the gate waiting to get underway. Hours had passed, yet here we were, back on another plane, and still not going anywhere.

Eventually we did push back however, and the engines revved up as we taxied over to take our place in line. There was a steady stream of planes on their way out by now, and you could see the red taillights disappearing in all directions. The night sky was clear and stars had popped out over head, and it felt like perhaps, at long last, I was going to get to go somewhere, even if it was just back to where I had started the day.

But then a funny thing happened. The engines idled down and we continued to sit. Why weren’t we taking off? What ill wind had blown in at this late hour to snuff out my flame of hope? After a few more minutes passed, the captain came on the speaker and presented us with yet more wonderful news. A line of thunderstorms had developed between Dallas and Austin, and they had decided that we would need to fly around those storms if we hoped to safely reach our final destination. Unfortunately however, they hadn’t planned for this contingency, so the plane didn’t have enough fuel in its tanks to cover the extra distance. Groans of despair rose up from the cabin as we turned around to return to the gate to take on more fuel. I wondered if I should be thankful that the airline was aware enough to know that we needed more gas for this extended flight, or worried that they hadn’t left much room for error in the first place.

Back at the gate, the pilot stepped off the plane to fill out some paperwork and get the details on the new flight path. Meanwhile, the ground crew went to work adding more fuel to the jet, while we continued to wait. It was now after 11 PM, and I had sat on planes that didn’t go anywhere for over five hours that day. I love to travel, but at that point I wasn’t sure I’d ever want to see the inside of a plane again.

Eventually, we did get gassed up, and the pilot returned to the cockpit, where he informed us that we were now, at long last, ready to get underway. But this American airline had yet one more cruel joke to play on the passengers. After filling the tank with fuel, it seemed that all of the ground crew scurried off to attend to other duties, and there was no one around to push us back from the gate. We sat waiting for another twenty minutes, before someone returned to finally get us underway. It was 11:45 PM by the time we took flight, 12 hours after I first boarded the plane in Austin. During that time, I had managed to travel roughly 200 miles, and was now on my way back home. Thoughts of fun and adventure in the Atacama Desert of Chile were the furthest thing from my mind. By that time, I was simply ready for my own bed.

The flight back to Austin was, fortunately, uneventful. It was, however, longer than normal thanks to those untimely storms hanging over central Texas. Eventually we did reach our destination though, and at about 1 AM, I was in my car and ready for the 40 minute drive home from the airport. As I drove, I reflected on what had become a very long day, and for all the wrong reason. I was suppose to be on a flight to South America, but instead i was on my way home. It had turned out to be one of the most frustrating days of travel I had ever had to endure, and a sobering reminder of how helpless you can feel when things are completely out of your control.

Any frequent traveler can probably sympathize with this tale to some degree. We’ve all been stranded somewhere due to mechanical issues or bad weather, and it never gets any less frustrating. But these challenging days of travel are far outweighed by the ones that go just right, delivering us the experiences that we love so much. While the weather delays can be tough to endure, they are soon a distant memory when you’ve arrived at your destination, and you’re reminded of all the things that make travel worthwhile. It isn’t always easy to see that when an untimely thunderstorm leaves you stranded in an airport somewhere, but those moments are fleeting, while the joy of a fantastic trip will last a lifetime.


[Photo credits: Postdif, Bidgee and Fir0002 via WikiMedia]

Ten (more) random observations about Ethiopia

When writing last year’s Ethiopia travel series, I collected twelve random observations about Ethiopia. These were interesting bits of information that didn’t fit in any of my articles. While writing my Harar travel series, I collected ten more.

1. The standard traveler’s money belt that hangs from your neck and is tucked under your shirt is very amusing to Ethiopians because Oromo women wear them. You’ll often see them digging them out in the market to get change. The above photo shows them being made.

2. The banknotes smell spicy. This is because Ethiopians eat with their hands and then handle money in order to pay for their meal. A few years of this treatment makes Ethiopian money smell like a spice stall in the market. Crisp, odorless banknotes fresh from the bank don’t seem real!

3. The currency is called birr, which means “silver.” Before coins became common, people used more practical objects as currency, such as bullets and slabs of salt.

4. Ethiopians have a unique dance called the uuzkista in which you jiggle your shoulders back and forth. Check out the video to see how it’s done.

5. I noticed that many crosses people wear are all the same bright green color. I wondered about this until one night I was walking down a dark street with an Ethiopian friend and noticed her cross was glowing in the dark. Soon I was seeing glowing Crucifixions everywhere.

6. Since most streets lack lighting, many cell phones come equipped with a mini flashlight.

7. To get a waiter’s attention, snap your fingers or clap your hands. What’s rude in one culture is normal in another. I saw a guy get kicked out of a restaurant in New York for doing this because in the West it’s the ultimate in low-class boorishness. Here in Ethiopia it’s completely acceptable, but it took me a long time before I could bring myself to clap at a waiter.

8. There’s a shortage of postcards in Ethiopia. Ethiopians aren’t in the habit of sending postcards and the fledgling tourism industry hasn’t printed many. Some entrepreneurs have taken matters into their own hands. In Gondar a local photographer wanders around the castles selling images he’s taken. It isn’t a proper postcard, but the post office accepts them.

9. When Ethiopians shake hands, they bump each other’s shoulder. If your hand is dirty because you’ve been eating, keep your hand closed and your arm straight down to signal that you can’t shake hands. Instead the other person grabs the forearm and does the shoulder bump. If both people’s hands are dirty, you touch forearms and still do the shoulder bump. Don’t forget the shoulder bump!

10. Farmers often carry water in gourds. Now some entrepreneur has come up with the modern equivalent-plastic gourds in bright colors! Some fashionable farmers are carrying these instead of bothering to prepare their own natural gourds.

This wraps up my series Harar, Ethiopia: Two months in Africa’s city of Saints. Thanks for joining me on my adventure through the Horn of Africa!

Travel caution urged but experiences await, what to do?

Troubling events around the world can often bring official alerts and warnings against travel to protect us from harm. Savvy travelers know to pay attention to those words of caution, but not let them define their adventures. Connecting with experienced travelers can bring a fuzzy picture of what is actually happening on the ground into focus. A clear picture of the real situation from a trusted source can give the green light to plans that might otherwise have been put on hold.

Egypt has been in the news a lot lately with graphic images of demonstrators clashing with the Egyptian military in Cairo’s Tahrir Square. This week the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office issued a travel warning to avoid public places in Egypt.

Abercrombie and Kent
(A&K) is an experienced travel company that has visited the world’s greatest destinations since 1962. They are well-known in the Middle East, including Egypt. When Egypt’s revolution caused travelers already there to scramble for a way out, A&K was prepared.

“A&K has six offices in Egypt so the company’s on-ground presence and expert destination knowledge really sets them apart from other operators” a spokesperson told Gadling, adding “When the crisis broke out, A&K was able to safely get all clients out of Egypt via charter planes. Other companies had to go through the Embassy’s so A&K was better able to do this task.”

That is just what we would want to have happen and surely a point in favor of aligning travel plans with an experienced source. Better yet, hearing details from sources that make a living on the ground in trouble-prone places can give more detailed, accurate information to fuel our travel decisions.

We asked a number of sources the big question: “Is it safe to travel in Egypt now?” Abercrombie and Kent think it is and provide us with reasons for their qualified opinion.

“The situation has improved dramatically in recent weeks. The U.S. State Department has softened its Travel Warning and both the French and the British have updated their cautions. Airports and financial institutions are functioning normally and popular tourist sites are open – and remarkably free of visitors. Beyond that, Egyptians are relishing their new-found freedom and a sense of optimism is palpable wherever you go; there is a sense of promise and exhilaration in the air that may never come again. Egyptians are finally exercising their right to political organization, demonstrations, and free speech just as people do all over the world. The vast majority of this has been very positive and has not disrupted daily life in any way. Throughout, neither tourists nor tourist facilities have ever been targeted in any way. With a stable political situation, crowd-free sites and a newly energized people, this is the moment to experience Egypt.”


Right about here I should probably admit that Egypt is my “…and then I can die” place to visit some day. I have been studying Egypt since an 8th grade Social Studies teacher required the class to copy intricate diagrams of Egyptian structures as a learning tool. Fascinated with the culture and architecture, it would be really easy for me to throw all caution to the wind and go there regardless of the situation on the ground. Luckily, sources like A&K are not blinded by life-long dreams and have a clear view of what is being done to protect visitors.

“Comprehensive security measures are in place at hotels and tourist sites, including bag screenings, metal detectors, and the visible presence of Tourist Police. Vehicles are not permitted to enter any hotel or tourist site without being thoroughly checked at the gate by security personnel and dogs trained to detect explosives. Each key tourist zone has its own security team comprised of tourist, district and state police. Regular patrols take place in the immediate vicinity of the sites and deep into the desert in the open places. We work with local authorities, tourist police, security officials, and our own team on the ground who are well aware of security and take the utmost precaution in all cases to protect our guests and to ensure that they have a flawless experience here. All these factors that play into our operations decisions-decisions that we take keeping in mind that guest comfort and safety is our top priority.”


In a world where political unrest, rising crime and natural disasters seem almost commonplace, waiting for everything to be happy, safe and secure might take a long time. Aligning ourselves with trusted sources like Abercrombie and Kent can make a huge difference.

Take Gadling TV’s TravelTalk for example. After the recently-posted final episode of the Webby-nominated 12-part series on Thailand, I’m pretty sure our Stephen Greenwood would make a fabulous tour guide. Following his adventures in Thailand, I have him as a trusted source for Thailand information. He may not know the gross national product of Thailand (or maybe he does, I have no clue) but it is apparent that he knows the lay of the land and how to make some truly amazing travel experiences.

There is a lot to be said about experience when it comes to traveling, whether that of an individual or a travel company. If we have been some place a number of times, that previous experience can add a valuable filter to what we see in video and in print when events occur around the globe.

Safety in travel is important.

Caution in troubled places is too.
Equally important is for us to attain our travel goals.

Aligning ourselves with trusted sources can make that happen.

Find out how other travel sources responded to “Is it safe to travel?” as we continue to explore what to do when travel caution is urged but experiences await.

Bamburgh Castle excavation reveals Anglo-Saxon building


An excavation in the courtyard of Bamburgh Castle has uncovered an Anglo-Saxon hall, the BBC reports.

It was already known that there was a castle here from the 6th century AD, when England was a patchwork of small Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. The kingdom of Northumbria was the largest and one of the most powerful. Little was known about the Anglo-Saxon period at Bamburgh, however, because of the massive later castle built atop it.

Now archaeologists have discovered a hall, perhaps a grand building used by the local ruler. The excavation will be featured on the next episode of Time Team, aired in the UK on Channel 4 this Sunday, April 24, at 5:30 PM. The Bamburgh Research Project has an interesting blog to keep you up to date about the excavation. They also offer a Dig for a Day program where you can learn what it’s like to be an archaeologist and maybe make a major discovery of your own.

A couple of years ago we chose Bamburgh Castle as one of the ten toughest castles in the world because of its amazing military history. Check out the link for more information.

[Photo courtesy George Ford]

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Lesbian couple sues hotel after being denied double room

A lesbian couple is suing a hotel in England after being refused a double room.

Rebecca Nash and Hope Stubbings say they tried to check into the Brunswick Square Hotel in Brighton but were refused a room because the hotel only gives rooms to couples.

This is surprising for a number of reasons. First, it’s illegal in the UK for hotels to refuse rooms to gay and lesbian couples. Second, Brighton is England’s most popular gay and lesbian seaside town and surely the Brunswick Square Hotel has had to deal with gay guests before. And third, a court fined a bed and breakfast for refusing a room to a gay couple earlier this year.

In the earlier case, the hotel owners were defiant, saying homosexuality was against their Christian principles. In the Brighton case, it’s a matter of “he said, she said.” The manager says the couple hadn’t made a booking. The lesbian couple said the manager got angry and told them “no two boys, no two girls” in the rooms before kicking them out.

[Lesbian flag image courtesy Wikimedia Commons]