Summer Travel: Turkey’s Aegean coast

by Matthew Firestone on

There must be something in the human brain that draws our species to the coast, be it a primitive desire to hunt and fish, or a hedonistic drive to worship the sun and sea. Either way, life always seems better near the water.

One of our favorite coastlines may not be as fashionable as the French Riviera, nor as romantic as Italy’s Cinque Terra. But what it lacks in glitz and glam, it more than makes up for in cultural and historical relevance.

On that note, let me draw your attention to Turkey’s Aegean coast, a strip of land in the southwest corner of ancient Anatolia, also known as Asia Minor. It borders the Aegean Sea, and was part of both the Hellenistic and Roman Empires.

With a pedigree stretching back more than two millennia, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that Turkey’s Aegean coast is home to some serious heavyweight attractions. We’re talking specifically about the foundation stones of the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World), the ruined Roman city of Ephesus, the Basilica of St. John and the House of the Virgin Mary.

%Gallery-122971%There are actually several ways that travelers access Turkey’s Aegean coast. If you’re a fan of cruising, then you’ll be happy to know that the resort town of Kuşadası is home to a large ship berth. As such, it’s easy to combine a cruise through the Greek islands with add-ons in Kuşadası and even Istanbul. Kuşadası itself makes for an interesting stopover, complete with Ottoman-built city walls, a portside promenade and powdery beaches.

Another option, albeit one that’s mainly popular with British and European travelers, is to access the coast via charter flight to the city of İzmir. However, for North Americans traveling across the pond, it makes more sense to fly directly to Istanbul, and then travel south along the coast. Fortunately, Turkey boasts an excellent long-distance bus network.

Night buses with on-board stewardesses, overhead movies and reclining seats are surprisingly comfortable, very safe and all-together affordable.

If you’re interested in ticking off the list of sights that we previously mentioned, then it’s best to base yourself in the tiny town of Selçuk. Here along the coast you will find a few generic resort complexes, but we’re partial to the smaller B&Bs and guesthouses scattered amidst the historic center. Largely Ottoman in design, Selçuk is guarded by a grand fortress, and surrounded by rolling hillsides and sweet-smelling orchards.

When it comes to sightseeing, quite frankly you’re spoiled for choice.

Although the Pyramids of Giza are the only ancient wonder of the world that remains intact, the foundation stones of the Temple of Artemis were discovered in 1869 at Selçuk. Subsequent archaeological excavations revealed numerous sculptural fragments and column segments, thus improving our knowledge of one of the most influential temples in the Greco-Roman world. Today a solitary reconstructed pillar of incongruous stones marks the site.

One of the most impressive ruins in Selçuk is the Basilica of St. John, which was constructed by the Roman Emperoro Justinian I in the 6th century. In addition to serving as a house of worship, the basilica also marks the final resting place of St. John, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus Christ. After his exile from Jerusalem, St. John took up residence in Ephesus (modern Selçuk) where it is believed that he received the final word of Jesus Christ and wrote the Book of Revelation.

The basilica’s exterior was modeled after the Church of the Holy Apostles in Constantinople (Istanbul), which stood for almost a thousand years before being demolished by the Ottomans in the 15th century. Inside, the Basilica of St. John is covered in marble and mosaics, and contains a crypt where the apostle’s tomb lies. On any given day, the ruins are visited by thousands of devoted pilgrims.

On a nearby hilltop lies another famous pilgrimage site, namely the House of the Virgin Mary. This humble stone structure is where St. John is believed to have led Mary after their exodus from Jerusalem. In the Catholic doctrine, the house is also where Mary spent the remainder of her life prior to her Assumption into heaven.

Of course, the most impressive sight along Turkey’s Aegean coast is Ephesus, one of the largest and best-preserved Greco-Roman cities. The centerpiece is the Library of Celsus, a monumental public depository that at one time held more than ten-thousand scrolls. Its main facade is comprised of two levels of Ionic and Corinthian columns, and gives way to the unrestored interior containing rows of storage niches.

Beyond the library, Ephesus holds several other noteworthy buildings including a 44,000-person theater, the largest in the ancient world, two agoras or open-air places of assembly, triumphal gates, ceremonial fountains, a gladiators’ graveyard and consecrated temples to the various gods and emperors. Everything is connected via broad colonnaded streets lined with polished marble slabs.

Here is an interesting piece of information: Although the present coastline is a bit far from the core of Ephesus, in ancient times the city was adjacent to the harbor. However, heavy silting over the generations gradually pushed Ephesus inland. As impressive as the ruins are now, we can only imagine how much more striking a seaside Ephesus would have appeared.

So, have we convinced you to take a trip to Turkey’s Aegean coast? Hope so, though if you still need more inspiration, check out the gallery below.

** All images are the author’s own original work. **

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Summer Travel: Exploring Cappadocia

by Matthew Firestone on

Disclaimer: Today’s summer travel destination isn’t exactly the most widely recognizable corner of the world. In fact, some of you seasoned travel vets out there might be scratching your heads and searching for the nearest world map. But we’re guessing that after a few hundred words or so, we’ll have you dreaming about a trip to Cappadocia.

We’re not talking about the small town of the same name in Central Italy, but rather an ancient region of eastern Anatolia, and part of modern Nevşehir Province in Turkey. Cappadocia, pronounced something akin to Kapadokya, is distinguished by its spectacular landscape of fairy chimneys, cave dwellings and expansive underground cities.

Accessible by either bus or plane from Istanbul, Cappadocia is one of the undeniable highlights of any Turkish grand tour. The centerpiece is Göreme National Park, which was designated in 1985 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and protects rock carvings dating back to the Roman era. Another major draw is the town of Ürgüp, where you can bed down in a Flintstone-esque hotel carved right out of the rock face.

Have we captured your full attention yet? If not, check out the gallery below.

%Gallery-122858%Although human settlement in the region began in the Bronze Age, written references to Cappadocia first appear in Persian texts from the 6th century BCE. Cappadocians are also directly referenced in the New Testament as one of the tribes that received the gospel of Jesus Christ on the day of Pentecost.

In terms of architectural contribution, Cappadocia left its most significant mark during the era of Roman occupation. Prior to the acceptance of Christianity as an officially recognized religion, devotees were forced to worship in secrecy. As such, many turned to the troglodyte lifestyle, and fashioned vast underground cities complete with cavernous worship halls, intricate alters, rock-hewn pews and hand-painted frescos.

Surreal as it may sound, the underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı wouldn’t be at all out of place in the Lord of Rings!

Both cities are entered via unassuming tunnels that gradually descend into the depths of the Earth. There are also obvious signs along the way that past residents were hostile to intrusion. Boulders could be rolled out from hidden pockets to crush bodies and seal passageway. And if you pause briefly to look above, you’ll see holes in the ceiling that not only provide ventilation, but also provide convenient openings for pouring buckets of hot oil!

Only select interior rooms and corridors are open to the public, yet it is obvious that Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı could have easily harbored thousands upon thousands of refugees. There are enormous mills and presses for making food and wine, sealed storage rooms with jar placements for safe-guarding supplies and numerous alcoves that would have allotted individual families with ample privacy for living and sleeping.

Although Christianity was eventually adopted by the empire, regional instability and the eventual arrival of the Turks were major factors in the continued occupancy of Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı. With that said, above ground settlements in Cappadocia also flourished, and applied troglodyte building techniques to the local geology.

The village of Göreme lies at the center of a vast open-air museum of truly monumental constructions. In the surrounding hills, you’ll find everything from simple cave dwellings and multi-room residential complexes to elaborately-carved monasteries and enormous churches awash with religious paintings. In order to reach some of the more remote sights, you will need to scale ladders, traverse rock bridges, scour cliff sides for handholds and perform other Indiana Jones-worthy moves.

Even where there are no obvious signs of prior human occupation, Cappadocia still manages to astound with its unique natural formations. Of particular note are the fairy chimneys, which have similar characteristics as the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah. These towering spires of rock typically have soft sedimentary bases in various states of erosion, as well as harder, less eroded protrusions at their tops. Some of the largest specimens reach heights well over one-hundred feet!

Arguably the coolest part of exploring Cappadocia is spending quality time in any of the cave dwellings that have been converted into luxurious digs. In the tourist gateway of Ürgüp, you’ll find a large number of boutique lodgings that manage to squeeze a good number of creature comforts in between hard rock walls. If you’re feeling posh, you can Jacuzzi in the middle of a cave, and then bed down on a King size mattress strewn across a stone frame.

In the winter months, many of the cave hotels come equipped with fireplaces for staying warm in light of the frequent snow drifts. In the summer months, they stay surprisingly cool, providing you with a well-ventilated refuge from the rising mercury. Modern conveniences aside, it’s not too hard to imagine why people were keen to live inside the rocks generations ago.

Cappadocia is also home to troglodyte-style bars, hookah lounges, restaurants and full-on dance clubs. At the end of a long day of sight-seeing, you can spelunk to whichever venue takes your fancy, and savor a proper Turkish meal, a bubbling water pipe or a glass of local wine. A burgeoning tourist scene of Brits, Europeans, Aussies, Kiwis and savvy North Americans ensures a lively time is had by all.

And now, here are the nitty-gritty details….

Turkish Airlines, alongside most major carriers, connects US and Canadian cities to Istanbul. You can then either continue to Cappadocia by domestic flight, or take advantage of Turkey’s excellent long-distance bus network. Night buses withon-board stewardesses,overhead movies and reclining seats are surprisingly comfortable, very safe and all-together affordable.

So, what are you waiting for? When it comes to summer travel, you’d be hard pressed to find somewhere more exotic that Cappadocia.

** All images are the author’s own original work **

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Summer Travel: Spotlight on Istanbul

by Matthew Firestone on

Ask most travelers to list their favorite European cities, and they’ll most likely feedback with the classics: Paris, Rome, Venice, Florence, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Munich and many others. But one destination that doesn’t always make the list is not only the largest metropolitan city proper in Europe, but also the former capital of both the Roman and Ottoman empires.

Need a hint?

We’re talking about ancient Byzantium, medieval Constantinople and modern Istanbul. Turkey’s capital city, not to mention its financial hub and cultural center, is built on both sides of the Bosphorus Strait. As such, it is the world’s only bi-continental city, located literally and figuratively at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.

Any time of year, Istanbul charms and enchants with its skyline of elegant minarets rising from the slopes of seven hills. But summertime heat awakens denizens from their winter slumber, imbuing the streets with vigorous life. Alfresco cafes brew cardamom-infused coffee, while waterside bistros serve up the fresh catch of the day.

With a material history dating back to the Byzantines, Istanbul is a veritable living museum of architectural stylings. You can easily spend a week exploring each of the city’s distinct neighborhoods, and check-off several UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the process. So, without further ado, let’s shine a much deserved spotlight on Istanbul.

%Gallery-122775%The Sultanahmet district lies at the heart of the old city, and is home to both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The former was built by the Byzantines during the 6th century CE, and was designated as the largest cathedral in the world for almost one thousand years. Converted into a mosque by the Ottomans, the Hagia Sophia and its crowning dome inspired similar constructions throughout the empire.

One such prominent example is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque or ‘Blue Mosque,’ which was built in the 17th century directly across from the Hagia Sophia. Rising up from the foundations of the ruined Byzantine palace, the Blue Mosque earned its moniker from the tens of thousands of ceramic tiles lining its interior. The exterior is distinguishes by its six minarets, vaulted arcades and undulating series of domed cupolas.

Together the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque serve as Istanbul’s monumental crown jewels. But this is not to say that the pair are the solitary focal point of the skyline. On the contrary, Istanbul is a sprawling panorama of delicate minarets rising up to the heavens. One of the best ways of appreciating the viewscape is to travel the city’s myriad waterways by ferry, tour boat or even local water taxi. Istanbul is simply magical just before sunset when the minarets turn dark black against a fiery sky.

Tourists in search of authentic handicrafts and tacky kitsch alike inevitably descend on the Grand Bazaar. Built in the 15th century, this covered marketplace has thousands of shops lining dozens of pedestrian throughways. Overpriced carpets and hookahs of dubious quality are peddled with vigor, but look beyond the aggressive touts to discover the genuine article. Turkish textiles are of very high quality, as are the works by resident cobblers, carvers, goldsmiths and jewelers.

If the tourist gauntlet becomes too much to handle, fret not as there are bargains to be had well beyond the walls of the Grand Bazaar. Scattered throughout the city are smaller markets of various manifestations that cater primarily to locals. The food markets are especially intoxicating to behold, complete with steaming vats of thick stews, carefully arranged piles of exotic spices, jars of pickled vegetables and rectangular trays lined with all manners of sweet, flakey and gooey pastries.

Indeed, Turkish cuisine is rich and varied, drawing ingredients and inspiration from the European, Central Asian and Middle Eastern corners of the Ottoman empire. It can be as basic as sesame-coated breads and seasoned yoghurt, or as complex as multi-course vegetable mezes and heavily-seasoned roasted kebabs. Domestic wines are surprisingly smooth and refreshing, unlike the local firewater that is anise-flavored raki.

Eating and drinking is a full-time activity in Istanbul, and reason enough to sacrifice some sightseeing in favor of restaurant-hopping. One of the most fashionable addresses to do so is Independence Avenue, a Parisian-inspired boulevard of 18th century Beaux-Arts buildings. Amidst the high-end retail shopping are some of the city’s most celebrated cafes, restaurants, bars, bistros, patisseries and confectionaries.

If you need to detox after imbibing a bit too much of the food and drink, there is no better destination than any of Istanbul’s hamam or Turkish-style bathhouses. Continuing the legacy of public bathing that dates back to the Greco-Romans, the hamam is comprised of several marbled rooms containing various hot and cold water baths. Impurities are sweated out in the saunas, and muscles and joints are loosened up in the pools of water. Attendants are also on-hand to offer therapeutic scrubs, leaving you with baby soft skin and a new appreciation for the wonders of cosmetology.

If you’re feeling a bit too squeaky clean, you can always spend the evening boozing it up along the Golden Mile. Dancing to Turkish techno with a cold lager in hand will give you some much needed perspective on the modern face of the city. Youthful, carefree and tolerant, the Golden Mile is where any remaining stereotypes of staid and conservative Istanbul quickly vanish away.

So, what are you waiting for?

Turkish Airlines, alongside most major carriers, connects US and Canadian cities to Istanbul. Accommodation is varied, and ranges from converted palaces to humble B&Bs. Summer heat and humidity can be stifling at times, but it’s a small price to pay for the opportunity to step foot in one of the world’s most fabled cities.

** All gallery images are the author’s own original work. All others were sourced from the Wikimedia Commons Project **

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Ode to the expat newspaper

by Meg Nesterov on

One of my favorite things about traveling, in addition to foreign supermarkets, oddball museums, and miniature toiletries, is the local English-language expat newspaper. When I’m home in New York, I tend to get all my news online, either directly from news websites through specific searches or curated from friends’ links on social media (one of the best sources for news from US newspapers is Canadian NY1 anchorman and New Yorker favorite Pat Kiernan‘s site Pat’s Papers). Sorry US newspapers, I know I’m part of the problem. But while I’m traveling, I love to grab the local newspaper over hotel breakfast or in a coffeeshop and learn about local issues, news, and phenomena.Last month in Malaysia while reading the New Straits Times, I learned about how competitive the Chinese are at a kite flying festival and how southeast Asian children have to be taught to detect sour milk. The travel section reviewed a new hotel in Penang with a first impression of “adequate” and the Niexter insert written by Malaysian teenagers taught me all about malapropisms. A couple at our hotel told me they came to Penang after reading an article on the Hotel Penaga’s renovation from the paper in Kuala Lumpur.

It was from Istanbul’s Today’s Zaman that I learned about the excellent expat community and online forum I’ve become a part of in the last year, and I now have friends who have worked at Zaman and their competitor the Hurriyet Daily News. When I first visited Turkey in 2008, I recall reading an interesting editorial in one of the papers about how stealing things from airplanes like safety cards can cause delays, as the plane can’t take off without enough for everyone. The torn out article is long-gone, but I’ve retained the factoid and it keeps me honest on airplanes (though I’ve been tempted to take a souvenir from some eastern European airlines). When the Hurriyet turned 50 this year, writer Jennifer Hattam wrote a great piece on the particular challenges of not only translating the language of news, but the cultural specifics and background as well.

Expat news doesn’t only come in print form. I tweeted about expat news sources and read how writer Lisa Bergren relies on the BBC for news as well as comfort, and CJGuest recommends Al Jazeera from the Arabic world, the German Deutsche Welle, NHK from Japan, and Russia Today from the Russian Federation. Gadling’s own Grant Martin likes the South China Morning Post and the more western Sydney Morning Herald.The local English-language paper doesn’t always have the freshest content, the most stellar writing, or the coolest layout, but it provides an invaluable look into regional and national issues. Expat news can also provide a lens through which to see world news through local perspectives, and help us keep in touch with the sentiments and opinions in our home countries and cultures.

Gadling readers, do you have any favorite news sources abroad? Please feel free to share in the comments.

Photo courtesy Flickr user Ed Yourdon

Istanbul to get second Bosphorus with new canal project

by Meg Nesterov on

The US may be all abuzz about President Obama’s birth certificate, but the big news in Turkey this week is the proposed Istanbul canal project to dig a second Bosphorus. Prime Minister Recep Erdogan’s self-proclaimed “crazy” project would connect the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, making Istanbul a city of “two peninsulas and an island.” Details of the project are still unclear, but it is estimated that it will cost more than $10 billion and would be finished in time for Turkey’s centennial in 2023.

“Today, we are rolling up our sleeves for one of world’s greatest projects which cannot even be compared with Panama Canal, Suez Canal or Corinth Canal,” Erdogan said. “Istanbul is the only city on earth that a sea passes through. With this project, Istanbul will become a city that two seas will pass.”

Turkey’s cultural capital is already known for several historic bodies of water including the Bosphorus strait, which divides Istanbul between Europe and Asia, as well as the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmara, and the Black Sea. The Bosphorus is one of the busiest and most important waterways in the world, with up to 50,000 passages per year with one-way traffic for tankers. The new canal would alleviate all of the commercial traffic and allow for additional ships to pass. The waterway would be around 30 miles long, 500 feet wide, and 80 feet deep and cut through the European side far west of the city center. The upside for vistors is that the crowded Bosphorus would be returned to sport and pleasure boats, making the classic Bosphorus cruise less polluted and crowded.

Photo courtesy Flickr user alinnman