Undiscovered New York: Bombing the Bronx and the Graffiti of 5 Pointz

As a resident of New York for just over five years, I frequently take for granted the “relative” cleanliness of my city. Sure, I could do without the many, pungent trash bag piles during summertime, but you quickly get accustomed to a certain level of grit and grime when you live in one of the world’s largest metropolises.

In fact, my version of New York circa-2008 is a utopia of clean compared to New York in the 1970’s and 80’s, when the town was literally coming apart at the seams. As the city suffered a massive financial crisis, crime ran rampant and public services like the subway system fell into decline. As tragic as this period was for residents, it also provided the background for some of the era’s most important cultural movements, including the rise of punk at clubs like CBGB, emerging artists like Basquiat and in particular, the first stirrings of the nascent culture of Hip-Hop and graffiti in the Bronx.

Graffiti is perhaps one of the most controversial artistic movements of the end of the 20th Century. As much as its detractors view the form as symptomatic of urban blight, its supporters just as forcefully embrace it as the stirrings of a wholely legitimate new art form. Though vandals have been defacing public buildings with their “art” since the ancient Greeks and Romans, the modern incarnation of graffiti took shape in New York City in the borough of the Bronx in the 1970’s. In that regard the current prominence of famous graffiti artists like Banksy owe their rise to the pioneers of the form here in New York several decades ago.

So if you’re visiting New York City in 2008, where do you go to see and learn more about graffiti firsthand? Click on through to find out more and learn where to go to find the art form still alive and kicking in the 5 boroughs.The rise of NYC graffiti was as much a result of civic neglect as it was a nascent cultural movement. With city police preoccupied with a huge crime wave, the city’s walls and subway cars became prime canvases for vandals, who began leaving their mark wherever they saw fit.

At first it was all about gaining notoriety. Early practitioners of the form like TAKI 183 would roam the city, leaving their ‘tag’ as a way to earn bragging rights throughout the huge city. Soon the movement gained steam, with other ‘taggers’ competing to see who could create the most ambitious pieces, evolving into elaborate, colorful works painted directly on the city’s subway cars. Due to the covert nature of their projects, many graffiti taggers began to describe their hit and run visits to the city’s subway rail depots as “bombing.” The style is perhaps best encapsulated by the 1983 documentary Style Wars, which documents New York’s thriving Hip-Hop, breakdancing and graffiti cultural scenes.

While graffiti on the New York City subway is a thing of the past, the spirit of the movement carries on today. A walk around downtown neighborhoods like the Lower East Side, East Village, Soho and parts of Brooklyn will reveal the art form is still alive and well. While there’s no one specific spot to check out, an afternoon stroll down the area’s many side streets will reveal a wealth of projects if you’re curious. Check out Wooster Collective and Streetsy, two of the best online street art websites, to get an idea of what’s out there. In the East Village, also make sure to check out the cheeky works of De La Vega at his shop on St. Mark’s Place.

But for the best place to go to learn more about this uniquely New York art form, your first stop should be Five Pointz, a large-scale artist project in Queens. This huge industrial building, located in Long Island City, is completely covered from floor to ceiling in a living, breathing mural of graffiti artwork. Artists both local and from around the world drop by on a regular basis to put up new pieces, resulting a building that has become a dynamic illustration of the art form’s continuing legacy and influence. While some works are more abstract, there’s plenty of great pieces that feature New York themes like Hip-Hop and many of the city’s famous landmarks. The building also has plenty of examples of wildstyle, an intricate form of lettering made famous by the original New York ‘taggers.’

If you want to check out Five Pointz, it’s easy enough to make a full day out of your trip to Queens. Just a short walk across the street is the art museum PS1, a contemporary art gallery which is an offshoot of the famous Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Just take the E or V trains to the 23rd Street/Ely Avenue stop or the 7 train 45th Road/Courthouse Square. The Five Pointz building is hard to miss – you’ll be able to the see the brightly-colored murals from up close as your train rumbles right past the building’s many murals.

Undiscovered New York: Life and death in the graveyards of Staten Island

Staten Island. It’s a name many New Yorkers invoke with disdain. And tourists? The city is lucky if they venture beyond Manhattan to the borough of Brooklyn. But despite this poor reputation, there are plenty of reasons to visit New York City’s fifth borough.

True, it’s never going to offer the glitzy shopping and haute cuisine of its ritzy neighbor Manhattan to the north. But urban explorers, history buffs and adventurers take note: what the borough lacks in picturesque vistas, it more than makes up for with “edgy” character and quirky sites of interest. My favorite? The Staten Island boat graveyard.

For those that do not know, Staten Island is home to what used to be the world’s largest trash heap at Fresh Kills. For years, the city of New York dumped thousands (if not millions) of tons of garbage on this site, creating one of Staten Island’s more imposing geographical landmarks. Gross, right? While even an adventurous traveler like myself might skip a site filled with old diapers and decaying chicken bones, all that trash has provided an interesting side-attraction in the form of huge fleet of half-sunken abandoned boats. Want to know more? Click on through the link to continue.Rather than sink the vessels elsewhere, the city of New York has chosen this sliver of water between the island of Staten and the coast of New Jersey as the final resting place for dozens of ships. The many boats sit half beneath the surface, silent sentinels to formerly productive seafaring lives.

As these old relics of wood and steel are ravaged by the salt and air, their decay leaves behind some strangely beautiful works of art. As wood rots away, rusty metal skeletons emerge and decks lie at odd angles, half submerged and half afloat above the murky water’s surface. Just beyond lies the hulking mass of the former landfill, gently sloping off in the distance. Needless to say the atmospheric surroundings make for an awesome setting for photography buffs.

Perhaps even more intriguing is that this isn’t the only graveyard in the area. Yet another forgotten Staten Island graveyard lies within easy view, but a graveyard of a very different sort. At the edge of the salty marshland leading to the boats is a small cemetery called the Blazing Star Burial Ground. The cemetery houses the final remains of Staten Island residents dating back to the 1750’s when the area was the site of a popular ferry crossing and roadhouse. As you stroll among the small plot of ancient gravestones it’s hard not to wonder about the inhabitants who made this once-pristine vista their final resting place. Could anyone have imagined how drastically their view would change?

So how does one find this hidden gem? Well, first you need to find a way out to Staten Island. Although it’s not impossible to use a combination of mass transit with ferries, trains and buses, a car is much preferred in this case. The site is located near the town of Rossville, on Arthur Kill Road. Not to be a tease, but that’s all we’re giving away. That’s what Google Maps is for, right? This is supposed to be an adventure after all, and any good adventure is not without its intrinsic risks and uncertainties. Happy exploring!

Undiscovered New York: Top 5 Grand Central Hotspots

Today marks the first post in a new series for Gadling called “Undiscovered New York.” According to the latest statistics, there were 46 million visitors to New York City in 2007. There’s no doubt New York ranks among the world’s great tourism destinations in the U.S., if not the world. And with hotspots like the Empire State Building, Times Square, shopping in Soho and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, it’s hard to argue otherwise.

But beneath the glitzy veneer of shiny skyscrapers, gaudy neon lights and trendy downtown boutiques, lies a New York that some visitors never get a chance to see. Beyond Broadway and away from Times Square are more than 300 square miles of territory spread across 5 unique boroughs, just begging to be explored. Join along as Gadling’s New Yorker-in-residence takes you inside some of the city’s lesser known highlights, hidden gems and forgotten spaces. We’ll hit some old favorites with a fresh look, and also visit some out of the way spots that wouldn’t find their way on to a “typical” New York tourist itinerary.

First up is this week is a closer look at one of Manhattan’s most famous landmarks, Grand Central Terminal. Though a train terminal has sat in this location since the 1870’s, the building as it is seen today dates to 1913. Sure, thousands of commuters pass through this majestic old structure every day without a second glance. And plenty of visitors also hurry through its wide passageways, stopping to check out the amazing ceiling in the main atrium before heading to the United Nations and Chrysler Building nearby. But If you haven’t had a chance to meander through all the parts of this amazing structure, here’s five reasons you should give it a second glance. Keep reading after the jump for our top 5 Grand Central hotspots.Hotspot #1 – The Campbell Apartment
Gaining its name from railroad magnate John W. Campbell, who used it as his office, the ornately appointed Campbell Apartment was built to resemble a 13th-century Florence-style Italian palace. After Campbell’s death, it was transformed into a closet for the transit police to store their guns and also as a jail. Thankfully, some kind souls have returned the room to its original glory in form of a swanky bar for your drinking pleasure. If you’re facing north, the entrance is on the west side of the terminal building. Oh, make sure to wear dress shoes – I know from personal experience they won’t let you in otherwise!

Hotspot #2 – The Oyster Bar
Another gem of Grand Central is the building’s Oyster Bar, a restaurant which first opened with the terminal back 1913. Except for a fire in the 1990’s, the restaurant has been serving delicious seafood ever since. Not a lot of restaurants can make that claim! Save an appetite if you’re around for lunch because the Oyster Bar has some of the best seafood around. I’m partial to their raw bar – toss back a few oysters while you take in the cavernous space and old-school interior furnishings. And make sure to stop at the Whisper Gallery just outside the entrance.

Hotspot #3 – The Food Court
It’s not widely publicized, but New Yorkers in the know will tell you that Grand Central boasts one of the best food courts in the whole city. If you’re thinking of the Orange Julius and Burger King at your mall back home, guess again. This food court is up to demanding New Yorker foodie standards, including sushi, Indian food, cheesecake and local favorites like Two Boots pizza, Brother Jimmy’s BBQ and a mini-kiosk of legendary midtown eatery Dishes. If you didn’t already stuff yourself on seafood, grab a table and some lunch here and watch thousands of frantic New Yorkers rush to catch their trains. It’s people watching at its best.

Hotspot #4 – The Main Concourse
No trip to Grand Central would be complete without a stop at the glorious main concourse atrium. The astrological mural on the ceiling was created by artist Paul César Helleu. Did you know Helleu actually painted it backwards? Woops. Apparently it was painted based on a rendering the artist found in a medieval manuscript. Also of interest is the hole in the ceiling above the image of Pisces. Back in 1957 the concourse played host to an exhibit of the new American Redstone rocket. The problem was the missile was so large it couldn’t fit through the doors – hence the hole to get it inside. The mark from the hole remains to this day.

Hotspot #5 – The Secret M42 Basement
Unbeknownst to most visitors, but deep within the bowels of this huge building is a secret basement known simply as “M42.” The room contains the electrical converters used to power the building and the electrified tracks. During World War II, the room was a closely guarded secret, as the power it provided was critical to all rail traffic along the Eastern Seaboard. Apparently even Hitler was aware of the room – rumor has it he tried unsuccessfully to send spies to sabotage it! This one is off limits unfortunately – you’ll just have to take my word for it…