Hanoi’s own version of Nessie — except with more sightings

When I first flew into Vietnam, I landed in Hanoi. After travelling through Laos, Vietnam was a bit of a shock — it’s more frantic and dirty than any city I’ve ever been to, even crazier than London, Paris, Bangkok and New York all put together. Crossing the street is a matter of life and death, people yell at you in foreign dialects for no apparent reason and you better not let the crowds push you off the sidewalk — the gutter is full of sewage.

But amidst all the indescribable hustle and bustle, there’s an oasis smack dab in the middle of the city — a beautiful lake surrounded by a equally stunning park is a welcome refuge for a weary traveler. And there’s a little castle right in the center on it’s own little island. It’s pretty surreal.

Here’s something I didn’t know about this little lake — there’s a well-known giant turtle in those waters who calls the lake his home.
The Great Grand Turtle, also known as Professor Turtle or Rafetus Leloi, has been emerging from the waters a record number of times this year — 78 to be exact, compared with around 50 last year — and it’s hoped he will pop up more often. In fact, scientists are trying to clean up pollution around the lake to guarantee it. Appearances are a delight to school children and tourists in Hanoi, because it’s believed the turtle was instrumental in the magic that fought off Ming invaders from China in the 15th century.

No wonder they call him the Great Grand Turtle — he’s 2 meters (6 ft 7 in) long and 1.1 meters (3ft 7 in) wide, and he weights 200 kg (440 lb)!

Photo of the Day (8/10/07)

Man, do they love their scooters in Asia!

This photo of a traffic jam in Saigon is a typical scene repeated hundreds of times in cities across Asia. Can you imagine what it would be like if all of these commuters had cars instead? Hell!

Thanks go out to Dave for capturing this slice of live in Vietnam. If you would like to be considered for our Photo of the Day honors, jump on over to our Gadling Flickr Pool and upload away!

Stories from the Overnight Bus

Overnight buses are a budget traveler’s friend. They’re a cheaper alternative to planes, trains and automobiles, and they allow you the freedom to get off and on where ever you please. Plus you save on a night’s accommodation because you spend it on the bus. However, the mere mention of taking an overnight bus sends shivers up my spine. Perhaps it’s because I find it impossible to sleep in an upright position and the next day, like a creature of the night, I stumble down the steps of the bus into the bright early morning sunlight with bright-red eyes, wildly disheveled hair, an aching back and numb limbs. Then I have to sleep a good portion of the day to catch up on the sleep I missed by not sleeping on the bus. Convenience my ass.

But perhaps my disdain is because of the following experiences:

  • The first overnight bus I ever took was from Bangkok to Surat Thani in Thailand. We were wooed by the amazing price of this bus ride, but a couple of days later, we realized how they make their money — we were very stealthily robbed during the night. How they got to the wallet that I hugged to my chest all night is beyond me. A night of firsts, this was also the first time I’ve been robbed — actually make that the only time (fingers crossed.) We splurged on the train on the way back and enjoyed a crime-free rest.
  • About a month later, we found ourselves in on a long overnight in Vietnam. For the record, buses in Thailand are like Buckingham Palace compared to buses in Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Anyway, the un-air-conditioned bus was so full that they actually sat people on folding chairs in the aisles. Lo and behold, we broke down in the middle of the jungle at 3am and the drivers couldn’t get the bus going again until about 5am (I think they need AAA in Vietnam.)
  • From Brisbane to Airlie Beach (a mere 17-hour trip), my travel friend Lauren ended up with a broken chair that didn’t recline. Right next to the bathroom, allowing us to enjoy some pleasant odors all night long.
  • Also in Australia, I spent one night busing it behind a troll-like man who snored unimaginably loud almost the entire trip (10+ hours) and then engaged in questionable behavior while he was awake (it was dark on the bus and we were looking at him at a funny angle so we couldn’t tell exactly what he was doing but it looked bad)

I suppose these are all down to bad luck, and I realize that overnight buses have saved me lots of money in the long run, but in some ways they’ve taken years off my life too (ok, maybe that’s a bit dramatic.) My point? Beware.

Dear First-Time Vietnam Visitor

Lately, Budget Travel has been running a “Blog-Off Contest.” Yesterday, they announced the winner of the contest: Steve — known to Gadling readers as ourman from Our Man in Granada — earned the right to guest-blog at Budget Travel’s This Just In starting the week of May 21. He’ll also receive $500 in cash. Since he’s currently volunteering in Granada, he can probably stretch that money pretty far — I’m sure he can turn that into a few dozen bottles of Carib beer, at least.

Anyway, take a few minutes to check out ourman, er, Steve’s piece. Called “Dear First-Time Vietnam Visitor,” the piece beautifully explains the intricacies, contradictions, joys, beauty, and horror of visiting Vietnam. With his writing, ourman brings Vietnam to life. Even if you’ve never visited Hanoi, after immersing yourself in his piece, you feel like you’re right there beside him, haggling with vendors, stepping past people who’ve fallen in the street, negotiating traffic.

Dear First-Time Vietnam Visitor isn’t just travel writing. It’s travel transportation. It’s travel teleportation. It’s top-notch, and I’m really looking forward to seeing his contributions during the week of May 21. Congratulations, Steve! You totally deserved it.

Photo of the Day (3/7/07)


Despite the date stamp on this photo you certainly can’t deny how raw the photo appears. Okay, maybe raw wasn’t the word I really wanted to use let’s go with dope. This shot taken in Halong Bay by LadyExpat is just that. She titles it the “Halong Bay Corner Store” which I imagine there might be some house boats around awaiting the Oreo cookies, fresh fruit, Merlot and Pringles order they put in an hour ago. I don’t know, but the point is this photo is simply fresh! Great work!