Elephants break out of Tsavo West National Park, locals go into hiding

by Sean McLachlan on


More than 500 elephants strayed out of Tsavo West National Park in Kenya, destroying crops and scaring villagers before being herded back onto park property, the Nairobi Star reports.

The elephants were simply grazing and looking for water, park officials say, but that doesn’t reassure villagers who saw their fields trampled. The elephants wandered through five villages and there are reports that they attacked people, although these haven’t been confirmed. Many people hid for days indoors until Kenya’s Problem Animal Control Unit took care of the problem.

Locals are complaining of threats to their livelihood. Many farmers live in poverty and one ruined crop can be disastrous. Park warden Samuel Rukaria told them they should invest in tourism businesses to cash in on the hugely popular park in their back yard. Not bad advice for someone with capital and a knowledge of the tourism business, but it’s unrealistic to expect everyone in the region to be able to do this. This story is just another example of how difficult it is to reconcile the needs of tourists and wildlife to those of local residents. With Africa’s expanding population putting ever more pressure on parks and game reserves, incidents like this will only become more common.

[Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons]

New Galapagos travel rules help protect the islands for future visitors

by Kraig Becker on

A month ago we told you about some significant changes to the rules of travel in the Galapagos Islands that will go in effect in 2012. In a nutshell, the new regulations say that a ship cannot visit the same island twice within a 14-day period, which will likely have an impact on the available itineraries that are currently being offered to visit the place. While the intent of that story was to inform travelers of these changes and how they could impact any future plans to visit the Galapagos, the article failed to mention exactly why these changes are being made.

As most travelers know, the Galapagos are a unique and very special place. Located approximately 525 miles west of Ecuador, they are home to a large number of plant and animal species, many of which aren’t found anywhere else on the planet. Those creatures include several types of sea turtles, the flightless cormorant, warm water penguins, and a marine iguana that actually dives under the ocean to capture its prey.

The Islands were famously visited by Charles Darwin, aboard the HMS Beagle, back in 1835, and his observations of the endemic plant and animal life there led to his groundbreaking work The Origin of Species. The Galapagos are like a fantastic, living laboratory, offering Darwin, and other researchers that followed, an opportunity to observe the way animals adapt to their environment in a natural setting that is unlike any other on the planet.Because of the diversity of plants and animals on the Islands, UNESCO designated the Galapagos as a World Heritage Site in 1978, and in recent years it has become a popular tourist destination. So popular in fact, that the number visitors has begun to threaten the fragile environments of the Islands, which were amongst the most pristine, well preserved wildernesses on Earth. In an effort to ensure that they stay that way, the Ecuadorian government has instituted the new travel rules to help prevent over crowding and to spread tourist traffic more evenly across the 19 islands that make up the chain.

It should be noted that while these new regulations will force tour operators to change their itineraries, and in some cases the way they do business, the announcement has been met with universal applause. By prohibiting vessels from visiting the same location twice in a two week period, they are also limiting the size of the crowds on an island on any given day. This makes the experience all that much better for the visitors, while keeping the impact on the environment to a minimum as well.

While doing some research on this topic, I corresponded with several tour operators, and it quickly became clear to me how much they loved the Galapagos. Each of them remarked about how happy they were to see these regulations put into place and how it would help preserve the Islands for future visitors to enjoy as well. This is an example of how sustainable tourism can allow us to continue to visit the spectacular places of our planet, while also protecting them from harm. As avid travelers, I’m sure that is something that we can all get behind.

See the Serengeti on foot with Mountain Madness

by Kraig Becker on

Adventure travel company Mountain Madness is well known for their incredible range of mountaineering and trekking options. Their well trained guides have the skill and knowledge to take clients to some of the most amazing destinations on the planet, including the tops of each of the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each of the seven continents. But if climbing Everest or Denali is a bit outside your comfort zone, perhaps their newest trek will satisfy your need for adventure.

Mountain Madness has recently begun offering a trek across the Serengeti that is sure to give travelers a unique perspective on that magical place. Located in Tanzania, the Serengeti Plain has one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife found anywhere on the planet, and while most visitors see it from the inside of a vehicle, on this trip you’ll get the opportunity to witness it on foot.

Over the course of the eight day walking tour, highly trained safari guides will lead travelers through the pristine African wilderness where they’ll witness vast herds of wildebeest, zebras, and antelope. They’ll also track buffalo, walk in the footsteps of giraffes, and follow massive elephants across the open grasslands, where lions and leopards rule the day.

Until recently, trekking the Serengeti has not been allowed at all, which means that the Mountain Madness groups will be amongst the first to visit the place on foot in more than 50 years. And at the end of the day the travelers will return to camp, where they’ll spend night on the African plains, listening to the sounds of wildlife in all directions.

The Serengeti Walking Safari is a fantastic adventure in and of itself, but when paired with a Kilimanjaro Climb and a visit to Zanzibar, you get a complete African experience unlike any other. Mountain Madness’ can not only deliver that full experience, they’ll also give you the adventure of a lifetime.


Yellowstone offers unique multi-day tours this summer

by Kraig Becker on

Today marks the final day of National Parks Week, during which time visitors received free entry into each of the parks in the U.S. system. But if you found that the week went by way too fast, and you didn’t have time to visit one of parks to celebrate, than perhaps it is time to start planning your own vacation to one of the iconic destinations for the summer ahead. With that idea in mind, Xanterra Parks & Resorts is hoping that they can lure you to Yellowstone with a trio of multi-day tours designed to entice travelers of all types.

All three of the tours include four or five nights stay in the park, meals, transportation through Yellowstone, complete with an experienced and knowledgeable guide, and a variety of adventurous activities to help visitors to get the most out of their stay.

The three tours include the Couples Adventure Package which offers five nights at the Old Faithful Inn, and a host of guided hikes throughout the park. The Classic Yellowstone offering is four nights in length, with stays at a variety of inns, and features a scenic cruise on Lake Yellowstone along with comprehensive driving tours of the diverse regions of the park, including the wildlife rich Lamar Valley. And the Total Yellowstone Tour, which gives visitors the whole experience, includes a cruise on the lake, a tour of the Mammoth Terraces on horseback, a ride on a stagecoach, and a visit to some of the more unique regions of the world’s first national park. That tour is spread out over five days and stays in a variety of inns as well.

Each of these tours is available beginning in June and running weekly through October. The itineraries are specially designed to give visitors a thorough look at one of the most spectacular wilderness settings in the world, complete with snow capped peaks, abundant wildlife, and unique geological wonders that are unlike anything else on Earth.

Personally, I’m a huge fan of Yellowstone, and think that it offers the quintessential national park experience. The scenery there is breathtaking and the diversity of the animals that live in the park is unmatched anywhere else in the lower 48 states. It is a perfect setting for hikers, backpackers, families, and nearly every other type of traveler as well. It is simply a magical place for anyone who enjoys the outdoors.

The worst zoo I ever saw

by Sean McLachlan on

I feel sorry for my Harari friends.

During my stay in Harar, Ethiopia, they were so hospitable, so eager to ensure I had a 100% positive impression of their city and country. For the most part I did, and I left for the capital Addis Ababa with lots of great things to say about Ethiopia.

They should have warned me not to visit the Lion Zoo in Addis Ababa.

It’s billed as a natural wonder, where you can see rare Ethiopian black-maned lions descended from the pride that was kept in Haile Selassie’s palace. In reality, it’s a sad display of animal cruelty and neglect.

The lions, primates, and other animals are kept in undersized cages with bare concrete floors. They look bored, flabby, resigned. Several of them look sick. Visitors shout at the listless animals or even throw pebbles to get them to move. Some toss packets of chocolate or potato chips to the monkeys and laugh as they tear the packages apart to get to the food inside.

The worst are the lions, proud carnivores, kings of the wilderness, reduced to trapped objects of amusement for bored city dwellers who don’t give a shit about nature. The lions lie around most of the time, doing nothing. Occasionally one will get its feet, shake its dirty mane, take a few steps before realizing there’s nowhere to go, and then sit down with an air of defeat.

The whole place made me feel ill, yet I can’t feel morally superior. I come from a country where people freak out if someone beats a dog but cheer when a Third World country gets carpet bombed. Where a zoo like this would be a national scandal but people eat meat raised on factory farms that make Ethiopia’s Lion Zoo look like a nature reserve. Only vegans can talk about animal cruelty from any moral high ground, and I’m not a vegan. Meat tastes too good.

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But a travesty like this zoo is totally unnecessary. Ethiopia is anxious to promote itself as a tourist destination, a friendly, civilized country where Westerners can feel at home. Well, if it wants to do that, it better do something about the Lion Zoo.

Like shut it down.

So to my Harari friends, I’m sorry. You came close to getting a 100% positive series (well, except for my bumbling around Ethiopia’s Somali region) but it was not to be. I understand Ethiopia has bigger priorities than a few animals in a zoo in Addis Ababa, but if you want to make a positive impression on Western visitors, this place has got to go.

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Harar, Ethiopia: Two months in Africa’s city of Saints.

Coming up next: Tomoca: the best little coffeehouse in Africa!