Unless you hang ten as a hobby, you probably didn’t know there was such a thing as the surf
writing genre. I confess, neither did I, athough I am an occasional reader of Surfer Mag and others, if just for the
photos. But compilations are all the rage today (Google the “Best American” series, you’ll see what I mean) and so
perhaps it’s time surfer lit gets its due.
Out from is Matt Warshaw, the man behind the Encyclopedia of
Zero Break: An Illustrated Collection of Surf Writing, 1777-2004. I’m tempted to get my hands on it just so I can
read the article from 1777. One pictures a very excited Paul Revere on horseback, “The red coats are coming…and sweet
breakers on the Cape!”