Winnipeg’s locavore restaurant wave


Manitoba is pretty far north, all things considered. On its southern edge, the province straddles the Minnesota-North Dakota state line; to the north, the province stretches to the 60th parallel, where it borders the territory of Nunavut. Yet despite its northerly geography, Manitoba has enough frost-free days to generate some significant agricultural production. Here’s the locavore math: Local seasonal bounty plus enthusiastic adoption of the current locavore vogue by Winnipeggers equals some excellent restaurants grounded in local foods.

Three restaurants (Mise, The Tallest Poppy, and Horfrost in nearby Portage La Prairie) stand out.

My meal at Mise (842 Corydon Avenue) began with a large salad of heirloom tomatoes with sunflower oil dressing. Next up was sesame-encrusted pickerel from nearby Lake Winnipeg, served delightfully and surprisingly with seaweed salad and unagi sauce. For my third course, I enjoyed a Manitoba pork tenderloin with potatoes and apple chutney. A refreshing lemon mousse finished the meal. Everything was gorgeous. The outdoor setting was sultry, the waitstaff enthusiastic and well-informed, and each dish delicious and provocative in one or another way. Co-owner Sue Gereta circled back to my table several times to check in on my meal, and told me about the restaurant’s ambitious local sourcing protocol, which includes partnering with a small outfit called the Landless Farmers Collective. In addition to being a fabulous place to grab a meal, Mise is quite affordable. A three-course meal of appetizer-sized plates is currently priced at C$35.

It was at the very least a private mini-tragedy that I did not make it to The Tallest Poppy (631 Main Street). The wildly popular locavore restaurant is focused firmly on sourcing its food as locally and seasonally as possible. The menu changes daily. Guests can call for menu information (204-957-1708) or check the restaurant’s Twitter feed, which sometimes lists menu updates.In Portage La Prairie, about an hour west of Winnipeg by car along Highway 1, is the remarkable Horfrost Restaurant (190 River Road). Named after a type of ice crystallization that appears on trees in northern climes during the winter, Horfrost sources much of its bounty from local farms. My road trip companion Melissa and I ate fried pig’s ears, bison spring rolls, and maple fries to start. The pig’s ears were the slightest bit crunchy. The bison spring rolls were rich and intensely flavorful. We followed with a schnitzel. Dessert was homemade ice cream (including locally-picked mint and strawberry) with chocolate sauce. Our talkative waiter told us that the farmer responsible for the ice cream’s strawberries was dining just a few tables away. After-dinner coffee was served with beautifully pressed pucks of sugar (see above).

Though less locavore-minded than the other restaurants profiled here, I’d be remiss if I didn’t note the fabulous Segovia (484 Stradbrook Avenue). Its menu is well-stocked with fabulously rich, delicious tapas. There are traditional Spanish numbers as well as some inventive departures from the mold on the menu.

Check out my entire road trip to Winnipeg series here.

Some media support for my stay in Winnipeg was provided by Tourism Winnipeg and Travel Manitoba. All opinions expressed are my own.