The best Italian restaurant in the world?

by David Farley on
“Prego,” said the Italian woman sitting behind an elevated counter. She waved me into one of the dining rooms, bedecked with rich wood paneling and white tablecloths draped over the half dozen tables. I was given a menu, which listed the canon of Italian cuisine: sausage and polenta, spaghetti alla vongole, and a colorful and fresh-looking anti-pasta bar, among others. It would be perfectly understandable if you thought I was dining in Rome or Ravenna.

But I was, in fact, about 3,000 miles from Rome. The chaotic, but intriguing miasma of concrete, steel, and car exhaust known as Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, dwelled just outside the window of Castelli. The restaurant, opened, according to Rossella Castelli, the woman at the counter, in 1957 (though many reports have suggested 1948). It’s a relic of the failed Italian occupation. The Castelli family opened the restaurant and stayed here instead of following Italian troops back home.


I didn’t come to Ethiopia to eat Italian food. In New York, where I live, there’s an Italian restaurant on every block, many of which are sub-mediocre quality. I lived in Italy for a few years, where I ate the cuisine every single day. Italian cuisine has managed to conquer the world, to borrow the title of a recently published book. But when I’m in a place like Ethiopia, I’m going to eat the local fare.

It wasn’t until I read that Bob Geldof, member of the rock band the Boomtown Rats and the man behind LiveAid and other benefits to help eradicate famine in east Africa, said Castelli was the best Italian restaurant in the world that I decided I couldn’t leave Addis Ababa without trying it.
Besides Geldof’s superlative language about Castelli, Bono, ever the hyperbolist, has also reportedly chimed in, though tamping down his enthusiasm by relegating Castelli to the best restaurant in Africa. Brad Pitt and former U.S. President/peanut farmer Jimmy Carter have also twirled their spaghetti here.

As you know, celebrities, the great arbiters of taste and style in the 21st century, know what they’re talking about. Because they’re famous they have a superior sense of taste and style that seems to allude ordinary people. Or at least that’s what we tell ourselves. We rely on celebrities to tell us what to like. Especially when it comes to food. If it’s good enough for Bono or Brad, it must be great. Right?


I ordered a bottle of Ethiopian wine–called Gouder, which could have passed for rancid Kool Aid–and a couple pasta and secondi dishes. I’ve never experienced this before in a restaurant but the penne of my penne all’arrabbiata was actually under cooked. Al dente to the enth degree. The spaghetti with spicy saffron sauce was not overcooked, but the flavor managed to be bland. The skirt steak in a red wine reduction, though, was egregiously overcooked. The baked lamb, much to my delight, was tender and juicy and just about right.

Maybe the chef at Castelli was having an off day. Maybe she or he wasn’t even there. It was far from the best Italian restaurant I’ve ever been to (though, full disclosure, I’ve never been to another Italian restaurant in Africa, so Bono could still be right). If you’re in Addis, go to Castelli–not necessarily to eat well but to eat in a place that represents part of Ethiopia’s history. (It’s the only country in Africa that managed to rebuff European colonialism.)

Just don’t say that Bob, Bono or Brad sent you.

Gadling gear review: Mountain Hardwear Jovian Jacket

by Kraig Becker on

The line between a once in a lifetime adventure, and a miserable trip that can’t be over fast enough, is a fine one. There is nothing worse than finally visiting your dream destination, only to have inclement weather ruin the experience. The right gear can make all the difference in those situations however, turning a potential disaster into an amazing outing. Mountain Hardwear is one company that has earned a reputation for creating equipment that performs well under the worst of conditions and their Jovian Jacket definitely lives up to that legacy.

Incorporating Mountain Hardwear’s proprietary DryQ technology, the Jovian is a super lightweight shell with a minimalist design that still manages to include all the features you should expect out of your active gear. It has been cut to be form fitting without restricting motion, and when worn while on the go, you barely notice that you have it on. The jacket includes large, zippered pockets that keep their contents well protected from the elements and are conveniently placed to allow access, even while wearing a backpack or climbing harness. Internally, the Jovian features a small zippered pocket, as well as a water bottle holder, which is much appreciated on cold days in the mountains. The large, adjustable hood fits over a helmet, but can still be drawn up snugly, even if you’re not wearing anything on your head at all, and the high quality zippers feature pull tabs that are easy to use, even while wearing bulky gloves.

The Jovian was designed for alpine adventures, but I found that it performed very well in a wide variety of settings – particularly when used with an effective layering system. In warmer weather, the jacket works great on its own, keeping moisture out, while still regulating temperatures, thanks to its outstanding ability to breathe. Adding base and fleece layers underneath extend its use into much colder temperatures, while the jacket’s included pit-zippers provide plenty of ventilation, without compromising protection from the rain or snow. This is a nice feature not found on a lot of similar jackets from other manufacturers, but it is much appreciated when you find yourself overheating despite the weather.As someone who likes to travel as light as possible, I appreciated the fact that this jacket packs so much performance into such a small package. The Jovian weighs in at just 17 ounces and packs down nicely so as to not take up much room in my backpack. I appreciate the fact that I can stuff it in a bag as a “just in case” option, and rest assured that it is there when I need it, without adding bulk or weight to my gear.

The MSRP on the Jovian is $475, which is likely to induce sticker shock for the average traveler who doesn’t need the kind of performance from their gear that this jacket provides. But Mountain Hardwear‘s core audience are hardcore adventurers and mountaineers who travel to some of the most remote places on the planet. Those men and women require that their gear performs at a high level at all times, and as such, they are willing to pay for superior equipment. The Jovian, for example, is the type of jacket that will not only perform well for years to come, but will also withstand the rigors of being used in active outdoor pursuits in some of the worst environments on the planet. In fact, the gear is so good, that Mountain Hardwear offers a lifetime warranty on all of their equipment. Consider that when your cheaper jacket falls apart on your next trip.

If you are the type of traveler who rarely has the need to battle the elements or face inclement weather, than this probably isn’t the jacket for you. But if your travels frequently carry you to remote places, where you either endure the conditions or miss out on the adventure, than Mountain Hardwear has built a shell that will serve you well for many years to come. Its ability to keep you warm and dry, while not restricting your movement, makes this jacket worth every penny to the audience for which it is designed. The Jovian gets a big thumbs up for adventure travelers, mountaineers, climbers, cross country skiers, and anyone else who takes their outdoor pursuits very seriously – rain or shine.

Photo of the Day – Aquarium visitors

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Aquariums rock. Anytime you put humans in front of a giant tank of water filled with marine life, the effect is typically the same: profound amazement. Children (and even adults) will stop and stare, jaws will drop and heartbeats will calm. The best aquarium photos, like this one by Flickr user halvora at the Bangkok Aquarium, are able to capture those little moments of epiphany and calm that occur as we gaze into these alien worlds of color and movement.

Taken any great travel photos you’d like to share with the world? Why not add them to our Gadling group on Flickr? We might just pick one of yours as our Photo of the Day.

New travel show features Zach Anner, host with cerebral palsy

by Grant Martin on

Earlier this year, Oprah’s OWN television network ran a contest soliciting video entries for hosts of a new television show. The contest earned 143 million votes and a multitude of entires, but one in particular went viral. Zack Anner, a Texas native with cerebral palsy submitted a wacky, light hearted video pitching a show about travel with his condition. His video was a mixture of self-deprecation, clever production and genuine, happy hosting, and as a result the votes poured in.

Not surprisingly, Mr. Anner won the competition, and his show, Rollin With Zach went into production. The OWN network just released a trailer of the series which features the host traveling across the United States covering the nation from a local’s perspective. At large, the new travel show beings on the Oprah Network this week. The first episode airs Monday, December 12 from 8:00 – 9:00 p.m. ET/PT.

If you want to check out the initial audition video, read on below.

Charles Dickens featured at new Museum of London exhibition

by Sean McLachlan on

The Museum of London has opened a major new exhibition on one of the city’s greatest writers–Charles Dickens. Dickens and London celebrates Dickens’ 200th birthday looks at the relationship between the writer and the city he used as inspiration for many of his novels.

The exhibition recreates the sights and sounds of 19th century London, something the museum does very well for many eras. London 200 years ago was one of the greatest cities of the world, and one of the worst. The center of global commerce and culture, it was also home to grinding poverty and drug abuse. One item on display is Dickens’ notes from an opium den he used as inspiration for one of his scenes.

Dickens often wrote about the plight of the poor and he knew what he was talking about. When still a child, he had to work ten-hour shifts in a shoe polish factory while his father spent time in debtor’s prison.

The British Library in London is also marking the bicentennial with a small exhibition titled A Hankering after Ghosts: Charles Dickens and the Supernatural. Dickens loved a good horror story and penned many, although another author once accused Dickens of plagiarism, an accusation that had some foundation in fact.

Dickens fans will also not want to miss the Charles Dickens Museum. Although Dickens only lived here from 1837-1839, the prolific author finished The Pickwick Papers, Oliver Twist, and Nicholas Nickleby in that time. Even if you’re not terribly interested in him, his house gives you a good idea of a moderately wealthy family home of the era.

Dickens and London will run until June 10, 2012.

Photo of Dickens with his two daughter courtesy Wikimedia Commons.