Figured I’d upload one of my photos here in Armenia as POTD. The fact is, I have a bunch of them to upload, but right now my connection isn’t so sweet, so I’m just doing this one.
This shot is from the Geghard Monastery, which I mentioned yesterday. The shot is of the priest inside spreading incense.
So I left off saying that Armenia is a country that is only beginning to recognize its promise as a travel destination. My guess is that many people don’t even know where Armenia is, and so I figured I’d talk a little bit about the country.
Well, the fact is that Armenia is surrounded by a lot of folks you probably HAVE heard of. Namely, Iran, Turkey, Azerbaijan, and Georgia. And my guess is that with the exception of Turkey, these countries are also not on the top of your travel list (although perhaps we should all expand our horizons a bit…I am told that Iran, for example, is a superb place to see). But Armenia especially deserves consideration. Why? Because there are some things happening here right now that are changing the face of the country, and because Armenia has some unusual characteristics that make it a very appealing destination, even if you’re just stopping by on the way to some place else.
The first big thing happening is modernization and Westernization. As a former Soviet republic that only gained independence in 1991, Armenia has been locked in a post-Soviet stupor that it is only now emerging from….or so the folks I’ve been talking to tell me. Basic democratic freedoms that are less vibrant in other countries nearby are alive and well here. People feel free to speak their minds, and they are building a culture of tolerance and freedom. People are building successful businesses, examining their place in the world. They want to play a larger role, and their culture It is a very exciting time for Armenia.
Another thing is that Armenians (already very friendly and welcoming) are particularly fond of Americans. They are a Christian nation surrounded by Muslim nations. Many people speak English and/or several other languages. I was out last night with a couple of guys who between them spoke German, Spanish, French, Armenian, English (perfectly), Japanese and Italian. The fact is, more Armenians live outside of Armenia than inside the country. The reasons for this are several, but include the genocide around the First World War, the Soviet occupation and to seek a better life in general. Many of these Diaspora Armenians, as they are called, ended up in the US, mostly California, and so they are completely versed in American culture. And now many of these so-called Diaspora Armenians are heading back here to live and build up the country, to make it a viable Western democracy, which, although there are some problems (corruption and so forth) it is doing.
Anyway, I don’t want to speak in such detail about a place I’ve only been visiting for a short time. What I write here is based partly on what I’ve read, but also significantly on what I’ve learned in talking to people on the streets and while hanging out in Yerevan. As I said, I am impressed and excited for this small country. It is very much the kind of place that Americans should celebrate and support. Western-looking, entrepreneurial and enterprising, rich in culture, friendly and open…I honestly think you should check it out. (and if any of this seems rambling and nonsensical…forgive me. I was out until 2 am last night and just woke up)
Well I have to confess that today was a day of rather basic sightseeing. I got hooked up with a group that headed out into the Armenian countryside to see some of the old monasteries and to hang out at Lake Sevan.
The drive out of Yerevan was wonderful. Armenia, you might remember, was a Soviet satellite state, part of the Soviet Union, albeit one of the smaller, more distant places within Moscow’s reach. But that didn’t stop the Soviets from erecting all sorts of clunky, but strangely fascinating, iconography around the country. Many of the buildings in and around Yerevan bear the ugly stamp of Soviet era architecture. Still, as unsightly as some of these places are, there is something about them, because we know the era is now dead, that gives them an odd appeal; they have become kitsch.
This morning, we headed out on the highway first thing…well, not first thing, first thing was to grab a cup of Armenian coffee, thick, gritty stuff that packs a wallop. It is wonderful. And entirely sufficient to start the day. There are no Starbucks in Yerevan. Not yet.
We drove out the highway to Garni Temple, a fancy little Greek-like structure on a plateau in the mountains. The temple itself was rebuilt recently, and while it was pretty cool, the surroundings, the wide open mountain faces around the temple, were actually more interesting.
We then headed to a really cool place called the Geghard Monastery, which is nestled in the mountains about 30 miles outside the city. This is a lovely place. The rocks are a magnificent reddish color, and they loom over the temple like a massive wall. Inside, the temple was nearly black, except for the glow of candlelight which barely lit the haze of incense smoke to create a very cool effect. An Armenian priest inside swung a pot full of burning incense, so that the smoke permeated the air.
There were some Armenian pilgrims there, lighting candles and saying prayers. There were also a few tourists, but they were all Armenian. None of them were either American or European. This brings up a very interesting thing about being here right now. Armenia is largely undiscovered. For three days now the only Americans I’ve seen have been Diaspora Armenians from Glendale or Fresno. I did see one French and one German group of tourists at lake Sevan, but that is it. As a result the hucksters at the tourist areas number only a few, and the ones that are there, selling bread or handmade jewelry, are not ornery or aggressive as they are in places like India.
I guess the point is, if you are looking for a place still raw and unbesmirched by tourism, Armenia is certainly one place to consider.
Well, I am off to a dinner, so have to cut this entry short, but I’ll file again when I am back later tonight.
So the short answer first (admittedly after just two days): I am hugely bullish on Yerevan.
The city so far has exceeded my expectations by a degree or two of magnitude. Coming into the airport, which is somewhat run down and dreary, and then passing by the weak and weary casinos on the edge of town, you might be led to believe Yerevan is a post-communist republic (aka: one of the Stans), struggling to figure out what it wants to be when it grows up. Stunted and confused. Not true. Yerevan is a vibrant, happening, hip, fun, interesting and culturally rich city…and it is pulling this off in a neighborhood where the neighbors are all, shall we say, rather ornery.
For those who don’t know, Armenia is a Christian nation, the first in history, yet it is surrounded on all sides by Muslim countries…many of whom, have not treated Armenia particularly well in the past. I’ll not get into Armenia’s extensive (and sometimes tragic) history at this moment; but you can read more at this link.
No, I want to focus on today. The now. And tomorrow. I will forecast right here that Armenia becomes a viable and somewhat common destination for American and European travelers within three years. No it will likely never become Italy or the US in terms of attracting tourism, but the country has an immense amount to offer, and is only beginning to wake up to rediscover itself.
You can see this in the streets of the city. I spent the day exploring Yerevan’s busy avenues, historic churches and a few tourist sites (including a somewhat disappointing tour of the Ararat brandy factory which ended well, though, with a tasting session). It is a busy city. People stride along the streets and sidewalks with purpose. Of course, many are just standing around. Or sitting in the park. But there is an upbeat vibe and hum to the city. Oh, one thing. Walk the streets with care. The cars don’t watch for you much. Even New Yorkers should take their alertness up a notch in Yerevan.
In the early evening, I ate a marvelous meal of kebabs and fresh vegetables at a restaurant called Parvana. I attended a concert for the Armenian Day of Independence and witnessed some tremendous musical talent. A young violinist (whose name escapes me right at this moment, but I’ll find it) blew me away he was so talented. Afterwards, I walked around and experienced some of the city’s nightlife. At eleven pm, the streets and clubs and bars and outdoor cafes were teeming with people, most of them young, good-looking and bursting with confidence. Yerevan is a confident city, and you can tell that the youth here are making the culture their own. While everywhere you walk western music blares from the speakers, so does Armenian music, which, even though I can’t understand a word, has a unique, upbeat sound that’s very appealing. In fact, I hope to spend more time over the next few days checking out the Armenian music scene.
So that’s all pretty positive so far. I have to say I’ve been very impressed in just a few days, although admittedly, I’ve been just a tourist and have done mostly tourist things. All that may change as I head out into the country tomorrow and after.
I arrived in Yerevan last night (finally) after a grueling flight and layover through Munich. Sadly, I didn’t get to hang out in Munich much, which is a shame since Oktoberfest is now in full swing and I would have enjoyed kicking back as a few beer madchens lugged some steins my way.
It’s a bright and lovely morning in Yerevan. I am staying at a fine hotel, the Armenia Marriott right on Republic Square. It’s right in the heart of the city, perfectly located, and a good place to use as a base from whch to see the city.
I got out this morning and took a walk around the immediate area. I was in serious need of some coffee and while there are absolutely NO Starbucks here (and no McDonalds, and no 7-11s, etc.) they serve Armenian coffee just about everywhere. Armenian coffee, so far as I can tell, is a lot like Turkish coffee. it is thick black stuff that sits on a half-inch of black muck in a small cup. And it is strong, which suited me fine.
So I dropped into a little cafe and ordered a cup of Armenian coffee and enjoyed it as I read for a while. When I was through, I asked for the check and the waiter told me the coffee was “complimentary”. The friendly, generous attitude of Ammenias is famous, but I have only begun to experience it here. I’m heading out now for a day of exploration.
More later.