One for the Road: Realities of Foreign Service Life

Jessica Hayden had been married less than 3 months when she moved half way around the world with her new husband, and soon found herself in a tent in the middle of Kyrgyzstan, heavily sedated on pain killers and hooked up to a WWII style medical contraption. It sounds like some sort of extended honeymoon trip gone horribly wrong, but in fact, it was all part of Hayden’s introduction to life as a Foreign Service representative.

Her story, along with 28 others, appears in the AAFSW’s second volume of Realities of Foreign Service Life, a collection of personal experiences from members of the U.S. diplomatic community. Focusing on the “realities” faced by diplomats and their families outside consulate walls, the authors explore topics such as schooling and housing abroad, intercultural marriage and employment for accompanying partners. Those who have already served in this capacity will surely discover tales they can relate to within the pages of this book. And it can serve as an excellent reference guide for folks contemplating a possible career in the Foreign Service.

Jessica was kind enough to share an excerpt from her story, “Your Health Abroad: What you Need to Know about Medical Evacuations”:
I generally consider myself a pretty healthy person, so when I started to experience pain in my abdomen about a year ago, I didn’t think much of it. We had only been posted in Kazakhstan for a few months and I figured my system was still getting used to the changes in my diet. I had, after all, spent the last few weeks experimenting with the local fare, eating Central Asian delicacies like kazy and kumus, otherwise known as horse sausage and camel milk.

But after a few days of increasing pain, I decided to make a late night call to our Regional Medical Officer (RMO), Dr. Kim Ottwell. It would be the beginning of my introduction to the world of medical evacuations, or what most refer to as “medevacs.”

Over the next week, I’d endure various forms of prodding (some of which I’m convinced would fall under the Geneva Convention on Torture) during my medical evacuations to Manas Air Force Base in Kyrgyzstan. I would also brave surgery in a makeshift military tent by Korean doctors who didn’t speak English, spend a week of recovery on a cot, and ultimately return home to Almaty with my appendix in a jar.

Yikes! Sounds like an overseas diplomatic duty disaster, and makes me wonder why a Foreign Service reality T.V. series has not yet surfaced?! This is the next best thing — Pick up a copy of Volume Two (2007) to learn the outcome of Jessica’s medical misadventures…and consider grabbing Volume One (2002) as well.

New Borat book

You’ve seen the movie; now it’s time to read the book.

Just in time for Christmas, our favorite Borat has gone and penned a travel guide to his home country of Kazakhstan as well as an accompanying guide to the USA.

As you might expect, Borat: Touristic Guidings to Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan; Touristic Guidings to Minor Nation of U.S. And A, is full of the same bumbling irreverence we’ve come to expect from comedian Sacha Baron Cohen. But unfortunately, according to early reviews (the book will be released November 6), the humor of last year’s comedic smash movie doesn’t translate well to the written page. In fact, USA Today states that “the book is much more vulgar and sexually graphic than the movie. Without Cohen’s winsome screen persona, the printed stuff is just gross. NC-17.”

Well, that’s disappointing to hear but it’s not going to stop us here at Gadling; we’ll get our hands on a copy and post a review in the near future.

Kazakhstan Replacing Cyrillic Alphabet with Latin One

One of the biggest challenges of traveling through the former Soviet Union is tying to decipher the Cyrillic alphabet. The unnerving thing is that it shares many letters with the Latin alphabet, yet they are pronounced very differently. Like a “B” having a “V” sound, for example. This makes it very challenging to find Lvov on a map when it is actually spelled “?????.”

Surprisingly, the Cyrillic alphabet is actually quite easy to learn and can be done so on your plane ride over.

But don’t spend too much time on it. Since the fall of communism, a number of countries have transitioned away from the Cyrillic alphabet and have replaced it with the Latin one, including Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.

Most recently, Kazakhstan has announced their intention to do so as well. The government anticipates it will take 12-15 years to reeducate the public and basically replace every sign and official document in existence. Man! Imagine growing up with one alphabet and suddenly having to change it mid-life. That must be tough. But than again, Kazakhs have already suffered through this in 1940 when the Soviets forced Cyrillic upon them.

As for us foreigners visiting the country, travel will be just a little bit easier with a more familiar alphabet at our service.

Kazakhstan: A Lot of Land, Few Beaches

When I read about the number of visitors to France equaling the number of people who live there, I also read that Kazakhstan is the largest landlocked country in the world. Russia and China take up a good portion of its borders. This map gives details of the geography and also information about some of the cities.

Since the fall is the best time to go there, this is a good time to be firming up those travel plans. If you do go, I found these suggestions from Top Five Things to Do in Almaty from Lonely Planet’s Blue List. Almaty is a good place to start.

  • You can go to Medeo, a valley in the mountains to skate at the highest skating rink in the world.
  • For a 1 day trip, at Talgar Gorge you can go to an ostrich farm, fish for trout and see the burial site of the Golden Man. (See article for description of artifacts.)
  • Khan Tengri is also listed as one of the top ten mountains to see before you die.

The OrexCa.com travel Web site has some intersting tours listed. You can tailor them to your own needs too. I have no idea if they are any good, but they caught my attention.

The photo is of Zenkov Cathedral in Almaty. It’s considered one of the eight most unique wooden structures in the world and has the distinction of surviving the earthquake of 1911. I had no idea there was so much to see in Kazakhstan before I found out about its landlocked distinction.

Kazakhstan’s New Glass Pyramid Opera House: Let’s Hope They Don’t Hit the High Notes

Sir Norman Foster, the acclaimed British architect, recently completed an amazing giant glass pyramid opera house in Astana, Kazakhstan. Beautiful, large, and magnificent, the opera house actually lives up to its name: the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation.

Foster’s latest project — also for Astana — is set to be completed this year and looks something like a futuristic yurt… on Mars. According to Inhabitat, the Khan Shatyry Entertainment Center will have undulating gardens, restaurants, movie theaters, a wave pool, cafes, a waterfall, and a dramatic lighting system. The pinnacle of the mostly glass building will offer dramatic views of the park and city.

Though Kazakhstan can be a challenge to navigate, the Entertainment Center might make Astan an appealing destination for travelers who’ve just toughed the world’s largest dry steppe region or explored the Tien Shan mountains.

[Thanks, Marilyn!]