Dakar Rally, another victim of terrorism

by Iva Skoch on

On our way from Portugal to Madrid last week, we saw a lot of trucks on their way to Lisbon for the annual Dakar Rally (previously Paris-Dakar). Unfortunately, the next day, they got the sad news that the Dakar Rally was canceled for the first time ever, because of terrorism.

Four French tourists were murdered in Mauritania on December 24 and nine of the Dakar Rally stages happen to go through Mauritania. The organizers feared they couldn’t provide sufficient security.

As an alternative, Dakar Rally organizers are considering a race through central Europe this spring. Czechs are big fans of the rally so I am sure they would be psyched, but replacing a race through the Sahara desert with a race through some “bad roads of Europe” is kind of a stretch, isn’t it?

Hire a local to be your local buddy

by Neil Woodburn on

Anyone who has ever traveled knows just how rewarding a trip can be when you meet a local who takes you under their wing.

And now there is a website to ensure that this happens.

For a price, of course.

Like-a-Local.com specializes in hooking tourists up with locals in London, Antwerp, Barcelona, Madrid, Amsterdam, Paris, and Lisbon. Simply mention what you are looking to experience (local restaurants, local architecture, local shopping, local etc.) and your hired local will then do what locals do best: show you around like a local. Get it?

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

Notes from Portugal: So Faro, so good

by Iva Skoch on

I know, I know the Algarve isn´t the “real” Portugal. It´s the built-up touristy area in the south of the country (which is a little ironic, considering the name “Algarve” is from the phrase “the West” in Arabic). Still, you´re definitely missing something if you don´t visit the center of the old town.

Walk past the busy shops and cafes (and avoid Jumbo altogether), and you´ll be rewarded. The walled old city is a lovely, roughly circular area of small streets, which center on a small, Gothic church from the 13th century and a small square.

Everywhere, wintering storks can be seen perched up in nests, high above the square.

I stopped in to buy hand-painted ceramic tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries in a dusty little shop. You know, it´s kind of a wonder that the old town isn´t filled with cafes, boutique hotels, and stupid T-shirt shops, like similar areas all around Europe. It´s truly lovely, and couldn´t have been more picturesque than just after sunset, as the nightingales started singing.

Notes from Portugal: Tiles from the dark side

by Iva Skoch on

On a lark, while on the road to Faro, Portugal, today we stopped in at the church in Almancil, the Church of St. Lawrence (Igreja de São Lourenço). It´s in a strange location: east of town, along a highway.

St. Lawrence had the pretty ghastly martyrdom of having been burned to death on an outdoor stove in 258, during which he supposedly said something to the effect that if he was already well roasted on one side, that they should flip him over.

This lovely little church commemorates these events pictorially using painted white-and-blue ceramic tile, covering the entire inside of the church. The effect is dramatic, and well worth the hefty 2 euro entrance fee.

The general church style is of the Baroque period, and dates to the 17th century, having been finished in 1730.

Notes from Portugal: Cat Steals Chorizo, Escapes

by Iva Skoch on

So far, I have enjoyed Algarve, Portugal immensely. Together with ten friends, we rented a villa overlooking the town of Santa Barbara de Nexe, which is a pretty cute town, but it is literally overrun by British tourists who own all the property.

Needless to say, we have turned the house into a party house. There are only two problems with it, and–incidentally–both have to do with animals.

  1. The cat. The owners have a cat and it steals our food. A few days ago, it stole my friend David’s chorizo [sausage] which was on the kitchen counter, sealed in plastic. He paid 8 euro for this special piece of sausage in a market in Spain, and, honestly, I think it will take years of therapy for him to get over this loss. Yes, that is an actual portrait of kitty the thief from yesterday, taken with flash through the window for extra-special scary effect.
  2. Ants. Our very first night there, we made the mistake of leaving a piece of cheese out overnight (what goes better with port wine than cheese). By the next morning, we had literally armies of thousands of ants marching through the living room, bedroom and bathroom. Trying to put an old wive’s tale to the test, we tried to pour salt over their path but it only worked a little bit. What else works on ants, besides poison?