South Africa on the Cheap

Earlier this week we learned how 2009 is shaping up to be the most affordable year to visit Africa ever and now it seems the New York Times agrees, saying that Cape Town has plenty of bargains to offer travelers willing to make the trip.

Cape Town, South Africa is amongst the more unique and interesting cities in the world. The city of 3.5 million people is a thriving modern metropolis, surrounded by some outstanding natural wonders, with amazing beaches, rolling hills, and sheer rocky cliffs making a dramatic backdrop along the city’s horizon. The region is also known for some of the best wines anywhere in the world, and of course, you can’t go to South Africa without taking in a safari.

The impact of the global economic condition on the South African currency is one of the major reasons it is now a more affordable place to visit. The value of the rand versus the American dollar is at its lowest point in more than five years, and inflation has caused prices to go up when paying in rands but down when using dollars, resulting in some excellent deals on hotels and meals.

The article recommends some of the better places to stay and eat, as well as what to see and do while in Cape Town. But the Times also has an excellent travel guide with even more great suggestions. The city is a great mix of culture and cuisine, with access to plenty of nearby outdoor adventures as well.

With the cheap airfares to Africa, and the strong dollar compared to the local currency, we’re all running out of excuses as to why we shouldn’t go!

Gadling Take FIVE: February 14 – February 20

You never know what you’ll find out at Gadling. That’s what I thought this week when I perused the offerings. In the midst of Cockpit Chronicles, Galley Gossip, SkyMall Monday, Tuesday Trivia, Through the Gadling Lens, and Undiscovered New York were posts with information I didn’t know about until I read them.

  • For example, Jeffrey’s post that Waterford Crystal’s main factory has closed caught me off guard. When my husband and I got married one of his cousins gave us Waterford wine glasses that he bought in Dublin. Hearing that the factory has been affected so severely by these hard economic times is startling. It’s Waterford Crystal, for heaven’s sake.
  • Alison’s post on driving RVs from one destination to another offers one more idea on how to travel cheaply. Plus, with a RV who needs a hotel room?
  • If you’re thinking of going to Africa, Kraig’s post Africa more affordable than ever in in 2009 points out that you ought to not wait. Prices are expected to skyrocket in 2010.
  • Check out Tom’s post Hotel Gaudi, a comfortable bargain. He recently stayed at this hotel in Madrid, Spain. The gallery pictures prove its stay-worthiness in case you don’t trust Tom’s word alone.
  • Last summer I was enamored with the show “I Survived a Japanese Game Show.” There’s no accounting for taste. On that note, Aaron’s post Osaka Bang! is good for a laugh. This concept would not work in the U.S. in case anyone is thinking about an American version.

Get a guide for the Marrakech medina

When I hit the ground in Marrakech, Morocco, last week, I wasted no time in passing through the gate and heading into the medina (the old part of the city). After all, I’m a seasoned traveler, and I know how to read a map. If I did get lost, I reasoned, I could see the Koutoubia Mosque from just about anywhere in the city — it’s the tallest building around (by law) at 77 meters high. Less than an hour later, I was in a covered, narrow alley and couldn’t see natural sunlight, let alone Koutoubia’s minaret. My map, which only showed streets, was worthless. Even on the streets, the map was little help, as there is a dearth of street signs.

Suddenly, I realized I shouldn’t have dismissed the hotel manager’s suggestion that I hire a guide for the day.

Several hours later, I found my way outside the medina, only to realize I was on the wrong side of the city, and walked around the outside back to my hotel. My wife was furious. I was irritated. And, I realized what my plan for the next day would be. It involved the experience of a local pro, Mustapha. I don’t regret paying the $25 for his extremely helpful services.

I know what you’re thinking … it’s what I thought. Guides are scammers. You feel that you can navigate a city on your own. If you’ve read any travel literature on Marrakech, you know that the guides exist only to bring you to the souks (shops) that pay them the highest commission. So, you’re being guided right into a high-pressure sales situation. In reality, all these perspectives hold a bit of truth.

As soon as I walked into the medina the first day, I was pestered pretty regularly by many “freelance” guides, some of whom claimed to work for major hotels. He was incredibly persistent, offering to take me around the city. Here’s a hint. If you don’t meet your guide in the hotel, he doesn’t work for one. As you get deeper into the city, they drop the hotel charade but have plenty of other stories. One explained that he just wanted to practice his English. In fact, when I responded to him in French, he kept going in English. I knew the situation but applaud his tenacity (now, at least). Avoid these guys. They will take you directly into the souks, and that’s all you’ll see.

When I met Mustapha at the Hivernage Hotel and Resort, he was clad in a jacket and tie. His English and French were heavily accented but more than sufficient. And, he smiled. He asked what I wanted to see. I listed off places like the Saadian tombs, Bahia Palace and Jemaa el Fna (the medina’s main square), and he dutifully noted them. When I finished, he added, “And the souks?” Yes, the souks …

Immediately, I saw a difference. Mustapha hailed a taxi and got us a good price. We went directly to the spots I wanted to see, and his explanations brought them to life. It turns out that I was near every major attraction on my list the previous day, but I never would have found them. With my guide, it was quick and painless. He also pointed out the differences among the people who walked by, providing some insights into the ethnic groups of Morocco. Buildings without exterior windows or balconies, for example, were from Berber inhabitants, while those with windows and balconies facing the streets were built by Jewish settlers. I never would have figured this out on my own.

The little touches were nice, as well. As we approached the Saadian tombs, Mustapha saw a large tour group approaching. Instead of taking us to the window to pay our admission fee, he nodded in its direction and led us straight into the building. He took us to the prized places quickly. When I turned around, I saw a large crowd behind me. I would have spent plenty of time waiting but instead had a prime position for as long as I wanted. On our way out, we went over to the window and settled up. If I had tried to pull this off on my own, I don’t think I would have gotten far (had I even thought to try).

When I saw what looked like rather ordered graffiti on the walls throughout the medina, all I had to do was ask. Mustapha explained that there are 32 political parties in Morocco, and each is allotted a specific space on the wall to use for campaigning. I didn’t understand the message at all, but at least I got the drift.

As we navigated Marrakech’s winding streets and narrow alleys, I did notice that fewer of the freelance guides approached us. A few of the bolder ones did make the effort, but Mustapha dismissed them quickly. Also, he let me know how I could break the rules. Most of the hard-core locals don’t like having their pictures taken, but he’d give me a look when their heads were turned, so I could get the shots I wanted.

Of course, you know where we wound up …

A good portion of our day was spent in the souks, which are intricate mazes of small shops located all over Marrakech. I don’t enjoy shopping, so I was bored to tears, but I did find some of the presentations (and that’s what they were) insightful. My wife enjoyed the experience thoroughly. I do think that these were Mustapha’s favorite spots — that’s just the cynic in me. But, since there was a trusted relationship, you didn’t feel worried using a credit card or having goods sent to your hotel (or shipped home) later. Morocco’s is a selling culture. You just have to accept that when you step inside the city’s walls. The trick is to find any advantage you can. In this regard, having a guide helps. A lot.

When I let Mustapha know that I was finished shopping, he brought us by Jemaa el Fna for some photo opportunities and then promptly back to Hivernage. The time had come to pay the piper, and like every interaction, it was a negotiation. I asked how much, and he replied that I should pay whatever I liked. Eh, I kicked the rate quoted by the hotel up 20 percent. He earned it.

Budget Travel: Why and how to hostel

Call me crazy, but if I were ever given the option between staying in an expensive hotel, a mediocre one for half the price, or a hostel for one-tenth of the price, unless I were bedding down in a really hot guy, I would take the hostel any night of the week. The reason: hostels are the most affordable option, allowing you to spend more on what really matters – the experience of traveling and exploring the world.

Let’s face it: with the economy as it is and our wallets thinning as they are, it’s easy to see the advantages of staying in a hostel, but it might be harder to actually follow through. As a single, independent young woman, I have no problem sleeping in a dorm – or even a cheap room of my own so long as I save myself the dough to spend on other travel expenditures. However, if you’re attached or have a family, there is little to no appeal to stay at a hostel, right?
Wrong. I’ve traveled long and far across the globe and pretty much only stayed in hostels, and I have met the most committed couples and families in these places who have made it work. They too understand the end value of cheaply bedding down for a night or two. Depending where you are in the world, you can save between $10-100 per night per person if you opt to stay in a hostel. You may be sacrificing 50% of comfort during the 8 hours you stay there, but imagine what you could do with the money you saved! My cousins often stay in dingy places and then dine in the best restaurants on the same vacation. Their philosophy: who cares where they put their heads at night so long as it’s in a (preferably safe and quiet enough) room? They’re still getting the same experience when the sun is up.

So hopefully I’ve tackled the “why” (why stay in a hostel) sufficiently. Let’s move on to “how.” There are so many different options available to travelers nowadays, so how do you find the best hostel for your needs wherever you are in the globe? In some parts of the world, searching for a hostel is as simple as a Google search. It’s the 21st century, the world is flat, and even if you’re traveling to the middle of nowhere, a good hostel will have some sort of information available to you somewhere on the world wide web. If you’re looking in a hostel in an urban center, if a hostel doesn’t have a website, it’s not savvy enough and it’s not worth your time. Opt for a place where you can see some photos and seasonal (if not specific) rates. Some hostel website even allow to reserve a room (for a minimal 10-20% processing fee) through the internet.

As for searching for hostels in certain parts of the world, like Latin America, it’s even easier with hostel networks like Hostel Trail, which provides photos and unbiased but honest reviews of hundreds of hostels scattered about Mexico, Central and South America, as well as some of the Caribbean. Hostelling International, Hostels.com, Hostel World, and Hostel Bookers are the best worldwide hostel networks, and are perfectly good places to start your search if you’re at a loss.

Perhaps the best way to find a great hostel in your travel destination is by word of mouth – gathering information from people who have recently traveled to where you are going. Some of my best experiences came straight from a friend who had just been to where I was going. If you get a good tip, ask for as many specifics as you can – even ask for names of people who work there or for worthwhile excursions.

In fact, many of the best hostels have a guestbook where travelers offer helpful tips for where to stay in nearby cities or where to eat or what to see in the town you’re in. The greatest thing about hostel living, is just how personalized travel can be. There are, of course, some pretty bad places, but others can really make your trip a memorable experience.

Unless you’re traveling during prime tourist times or in a big group, you will usually find a bed/room available for you. If there’s a contact number or email, feel free to use it. In third world countries hostels range between $5-10 a night (sometimes less!), while in first world countries you should expect to pay between $12-30 per night. Dorms are not half so bad either, just bring some earplugs, as your bunkmate may have a serious case of sleep apnea. Otherwise, have fun, and let me know if I missed any important tips!

Exploring the Kenyan Coast by Dhow

A dhow is a small sailing vessel that is traditionally found along the coasts stretching from India to Eastern Africa. They have their origins in Arabia, and were once trading vessels that ran far and wide, delivering precious goods far and wide, and while they have been replaced by modern freight ships, the tradition of the dhow still lives on in many countries.

Kevin Gould, travel writer for the The Guardian, found his own dhow experience in the Lamu archipelago, a series of small islands stretching along the northern coast of Kenya and the Somalian border. The archipelago is a place that still holds tightly to its roots, with simple villages with huts fashioned from palms. It is a place where the inhabitants still catch fish using a spear and relax in the shade of mangrove trees hundreds of years old.

Gould describes a place that few outsiders visit. He notes that the locals are friendly and open to visitors from abroad, welcoming them warmly. The crystal clear waters of the archipelago give way to pristine beaches, under cloudless skies, and traveling by dhow grants access to some prime snorkeling locations.

For adventurous travelers on the look out for unique travel experiences, this looks like another amazing experience. The chance to visit a place that few others have the opportunity to see, and to travel there in such a unique fashion, makes this a tempting journey.