Dining in Dushanbe: Rohat

Here’s another one you’ll find in the Central Asia LP guide under the teeny section devoted to all things Tajikistan. Rohat is a large Persian-style chaikhana (teahouse) perfect for passing the time away watching locals and an expat or two parade by on Rudaki. The somewhat open-air atmosphere with high decorative ceilings makes it a cool spot to be during lunch or dinner hours.

On the menu you’ll find traditional Tajik fare and Russian dishes as well. Overall there were mixed reviews on the food. I went with Lagman, a soup dish which was a bit bland for my tastes, but offered heat as the night became a little chilly. Service was decent, menu prices good and LP basically nailed this one on the head as well. Order some tea, have a snack and chatter the evening away.

Rohat is located at Rudaki 84.

Volunteer Vacation Day Four: Bringing Mud to the Roof


If you recall, yesterday I touched on the mud making process and how we were left out of squishing our feet in the cool wetness of it all which probably would have felt great in Dushanbe’s heat, but with time we would have muddier days. Day four wasn’t going to be one of them. For a brave two volunteers there was the task of going up on the crowded roof to hand off buckets to the construction master, Hussein. The rest of the group would remain below creating a bucket line from the mud mixture to the house where the buckets would then be pulled up top by a rope with a hook. By this time I had really gotten used to this bucket line thing. At first the task seemed a little mundane to have come all the way to Central Asia just to hand off buckets; I mean we wanted to build a house! However at the end of each day you could see the effects of how nine extra bodies impacted the worksite. I could just imagine the build days without so many people around, after mixing mud each construction worker coming out of the circle, each carrying buckets one-by-one up the steps to the hook waiting to pulley them up. I shook off the thought. The process seemed far too slow, too long.

Although I wasn’t brave enough to hang out on the roof for long I went up to investigate just what was going on. A wood frame had been laid down before our arrival and over that wood frame was cardboard. The mud was to be dumped onto the cardboard and smoothed out by Hussein. I found the cardboard aspect interesting and looked around wondering if all homes were created equally and the same in Tajikistan. I pondered the way my own roof was made. Space was getting tight. There were six people on the roof and while I was confident in their housing blueprints combined with our work, I still felt shaky and decided to re-join the bucket line below.

Down on ground level we passed the time away swinging the heavy mud buckets to the sound of whatever songs popped into our heads. At the very front of the line Christina had decided to make the homeowner’s 16 year-old son count each bucket he filled with mud in English up to one hundred. In turn he made me count to one hundred in Tajik. I was an easy target. I was the one running around all day everyday asking for new Tajik words. My little knowledge of Farsi hadn’t come in as handy as I hoped it would, but numbers are still the same with some minor differences in pronunciation. I was exhausted afterwards. No matter which language you’re using to count to one hundred it’s pretty darn tiring to do! Right around the time I finished the work above had been completed and there was no more room to spread mud. The roof was far from complete though. If I’m correct they still need to set or hang some type of tin or aluminum material overhead so the mud doesn’t wash away with the weather. Like standing in the mud mixture we would be exempt from that process too.

Kayaking the Li

You’ve all seen those Chinese watercolor paintings that hang in every Chinese restaurant and shop, that show the limestone karsts rising above a tranquil river. Typically, there’s a person on a bamboo raft, with a conical hat, on that painted river. Well, that Shangri-La actually exists. And it’s called the Li River.

The Li stretches between Yangshuo and Guilin, in the interior of China, in the Guangxi province.

The best place to experience the Li is starting from the village of Yangshuo (pop. over 300,000–i.e., a mere village in China), nestled in the tree-covered hills and karsts surrounding the river. It’s an hour or so from nearby Guilin (a small “town” of over 1.3 million). Now, be sure to get on the right bus to Guilin–unlike we did–because you could end up some 300 miles to the south, in Yulin, due to a slight pronunciation error. But that’s another story…

In Yangshuo, we stayed in a hotel called the Bamboo House. A double room with a view, A/C, a TV, DVD player and dozens of bootleg DVDs (why?) was only about $14 USD.

You can arrange to rent kayaks from the folks at the hotel. Early morning, they drove us deep into the country and let us off at the river’s edge with a couple of cheap kayaks and very vague directions on where we’d meet our pick-up later that day. We had the river to ourselves.

It was beautiful: white birds flew over the calm water. Water buffalo waded in to watch us pass. Storm clouds passed the nearby mountains. Occasionally, a fisherman on a skiff would pass by. There, we had the only peace and quiet we experienced anywhere in China. Just like in the watercolor paintings.

Word for the Travel Wise (09/26/06)

Korean is the only lang I’ve talked more about food than any other seen here. Don’t ask me how or why that is, but having a few food words tucked under your belt during your travels is very important and very wise if you ask me.

Today’s word is a Korean word used in Korea:

chuhwangsaege – orange (color)

For more vocab words found on the menu check out Korea infogate. Several more words in the Korean alphabet with excellent pronunciation guides can be found at Mr. Oh’s Learn Korean website. It’s a fun place to start to learn the basics. KBS World Radio has a three part, 30 chapter online learning guide all for free. I can’t get the Hangul text to show up, but they’ve got sound clips of all the sample conversations available. Learn Korean dot net has most of the aforementioned along with a forum to meet other speakers both fluent natives and beginners. For a list of Korean language programs in the country click here.

Past Korean words: shik-sah, sollongtang, yuh heng, mollah yo, hullyunghan

Dining in Dushanbe: Chinese Restaurant

Lunch at the Chinese restaurant was like a blur. Perhaps it is not even fair of me to provide a review considering all the factors: eight very jet lagged and hungry foreigners together for the first time with one very quaint young waitress. I would not wish that situation upon anyone, but allow me to talk only on the food.

My taste buds lead me to a spicy chicken dish and I sampled some of the fried rice off a companion’s plate. Now, I have had a large amount of Chinese food in my lifetime and in comparison to all the rest this little Chinese joint next door to the Indian spot off of Rudaki doesn’t get any medals. The food was okay, but I’ve had much better Chinese in parts of Alabama. On the up side it’s a great place to stop if you’re searching for fare less greasy/oily than some of the traditional Tajik finds around the town.

Affordable (low-mid range) and extremely accommodating staff.