Big in Japan: 5 things I wish I had known before moving to Japan

by Matthew Firestone on

When you spend your days writing about Japan, it is sometimes really hard not to turn into a complete and total fanboy. Truth be told, Japan is an awesome, awesome place, and we bloggers love to write about all the weird, wacky and wonderful things that happen over here in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Of course, it’s important not to view Japan through sakura-tinted glasses, especially since the country can at times be an extremely difficult and frustrating place to live. Indeed, the prospect of assimilating into one of the world’s most homogenous societies is a difficult task (to say the least!).

We all do make mistakes from time to time, though there are certain ones that we would rather not repeat. On that note, today’s post is about the 5 things I wish had known before moving to Japan:

– You cannot get rich by teaching English in Japan.

Unless you’ve been working a menial job back home, you will be surprised by how low the teaching salaries are here in Japan. Yes, there are high-paying jobs out there if you know where to find them. And yes, the cost of living here is lower than in most major cities in North America and Europe. However, the English teaching market in Japan is saturated, and when supply outstrips demand, salaries are quick to suffer.

Keep reading as the list goes on…

If you’re planning to move to Japan at some point in the near future, or if you’ve already arrived, and are in the midst of trying to figure it all out, then this installment of Big in Japan is for you…

– Good teaching jobs require good teaching credentials.

There is a common misconception out there that if you can speak English reasonably well, then you can teach English reasonably well. Sadly, this statement couldn’t be further from the truth. Admittedly, the vast majority of foreign English teachers in Japan have never taken an education class in their lives. However, it is difficult to land a high paying teaching job unless you’ve got a good resume to show potential employers.

– Guesthouses are great for travelling, not for living.

I love backpacking as much as the next person, and guesthouses are great places to meet new people, enjoy communal living and save money on rent. However, lack of space, poor hygiene and cramped living conditions can quickly take a toll on your health and sanity, especially if you’re working long hours. While a good number of foreigners in Japan do live in guesthouses, it’s worth getting a real apartment if you have the cash to spare.

– Japanese is much more difficult to learn than you think.

Even if you speak passable Spanish or French, don’t underestimate the time and energy it takes to learn proper Japanese. True, it doesn’t take long to master the basics, and most foreigners in Japan are comfortable rattling off a good number of key phrases. However, to truly penetrate the core of the language, which will be instrumental in your understanding of Japanese culture, you need to be prepared for a strenuous, up-hill battle. With that said, it’s totally worth the effort as the Japanese language really is as beautiful as it looks and sounds.

And finally…

– You will not be the only foreigner living in Japan.

While Japan may have closed its doors to foreigners for centuries, today there are parts of Tokyo that are as cosmopolitan as New York or London. Indeed, foreigners are becoming an increasingly common sight here in Japan, especially since the country is internationalizing at an astonishing rate. If you want to be immersed in Japanese culture and language, consider living outside the capital, particularly somewhere in the countryside. If you do settle in Tokyo, try to make a concerted effort to have both Japanese and foreign friends, which will really enhance your time here.

One last thing: I really love Japan, and I will confess that I do indulge in a bit of fanboy-ism on this blog from time to time. However, if you’re considering a move to Japan at some point in the near future, or if you’ve recently stepped off the plane and are unsure of what’s going on around you, then please consider taking some of my advice to heart.

For all of you long-timers out there, is there anything else you wish you knew before moving to Japan? Feel free to leave a comment and share your wisdom with the rest of us (^_^)

Big in Japan: Sumo wrestlers diagnosed with reefer madness

by Matthew Firestone on

Believe it or not, some of Japan’s most famous sumo wrestlers have just been diagnosed with a ‘chronic’ case of reefer madness…

Last month, Big in Japan reported on how an increasing number of Japanese people have been tuning in and dropping out, thanks to the easy availability of marijuana seeds on the Internet for home cultivation.

Back in July, a government worker was arrested after police raided his personal greenhouse in western Japan. In May, customs officers at Tokyo Narita International airport accidently lost US$10,000 worth of hash after it had been slipped illegally into a random traveler’s luggage – they were foolishly attempting to test the noses of the canine sniffers.

And now, Japan’s national sport of sumo, which dates back hundreds and hundreds of years, is being rocked by a drugs scandal. Indeed, sumo has historically been an extremely conservative sport, and wrestlers are obliged to conform to the highest possible Japanese standards of morality.

Two weeks ago, a 20-year-old Russian known by his fighting name of Wakanoho, was arrested for possession of cannabis, and now faces up to five years in prison with forced labor. The Sumo Association immediately banned him for life, the first time an active wrestler has been kicked out of the sport.

Oh, but the reefer madness doesn’t stop here – keep reading!

Following the banning of Wakanoho, random drug tests were carried out on 69 other wrestlers in the top two divisions. As if things couldn’t get worse, two more Russians, Roho and Hakurozan, both tested positive for cannabis.

The two have denied smoking bud, and police searches of their private quarters did not yield any illegal plant matter. Since Japan’s Cannabis Control Law outlaws possession, but not the use of the drug, the two wrestlers cannot be prosecuted. However, the Sumo Association was somewhat less forgiving, and immediately banned both wrestlers. A second test has also confirmed the initial findings.

And again, as if things couldn’t get any worse, this week the Chairman of the Sumo Association, Kitanoumi, stepped down to take responsibility for the scandal. The former grand champion, who mentored the Russian wrestlers, issued this humble and apologetic statement:

“I bear the responsibility. I am offering my resignation out of my own volition because I have troubled the Sumo Association and its fans. I must reflect deeply by myself.”

Sadly, the reefer madness sweeping across the world of sumo isn’t the only affliction threatening to unravel Japan’s national sport.

Earlier this year, a coach and three wrestlers were charged over the death of a trainee. According to prosecutors, they are accused of beating a 17 year-old kid, who later collapsed and died in hospital, as a punishment for running away.

Mongolian-born Grand Champion Asashoryu, the so-called “bad boy of sumo,” has also garnered his unwanted share of the media spotlight. Last year, he was temporarily suspended, the first such move in the sport’s history, for missing a training tournament.

While a fair number of sports commentators are sounding death knells, I’m fairly optimistic that sumo can bounce back. After all, if American baseball players can get away with lying before a Congressional panel over their alleged steroid use, then why can’t a few wrestlers toke a little herb to help them relax?

Puff, puff, pass.

** All images are courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **

Big in Japan: Tokyo’s top 5 easy-to-miss spots

by Matthew Firestone on

Quite simply, Tokyo is an amazing tourist destination…

From the manicured gardens of the Imperial Palace and the frozen tuna carcasses in Tsukiji’s markets, to the neon lights of Shibuya and the street fashions of Harajuku, Tokyo really does seem to have it all.

Of course, while tourists are quick to check off Tokyo’s top spots on their itinerary, there are plenty of other easy-to-miss spots that locals and resident ex-pats love to visit.

True, these destinations don’t have as much historical grace or cultural pizzazz as others. However, they’re still great places to soak up the ebb and flow of the city, and there is a good chance that you won’t see too many other foreign tourists milling about.

So, without further adieu, here is a quick and concise list of Tokyo’s top 5 easy-to-miss spots:

5) Shinjuku National Gardens (????????, Shinjuku-gyoen) This sprawling parkland on the western edge of the Yamanote line is arguably Tokyo’s best leafy retreat. If the weather is cooperating, grab a bento from the convenience store, and have yourself a picnic lunch under the shade of a sakura tree. When you’re done, walk it off while contemplating the Zen-inspired beauty of this classic landscape garden.

Want to know which spots made it to the top of our list? Keep reading!

4) Shinjuku Isetan (新宿伊勢丹) The mother of all department stores, Isetan’s Shinjuku flagship has one of Tokyo’s best depachika (デパ地下) or basement floors. In case you’re new to the whole Japanese department store experience, the depachika is where you can sample all manners of tasty Japanese delicacies. Pick up a few boxes of handmade Japanese sweets for your friends, or just gorge yourself on all the free samples!

3) Ameyoko (アメ横) The glitz and glamour of Ginza is justifiably famous, but you don’t have to flash huge amounts cash to enjoy shopping in Tokyo. On the contrary, Ueno’s Ameyoko Street is something of a dream destination for bargain hunters. Evoking images of pre-war Edo, Ameyoko is a bustling outdoor market where you can get equally good deals on tuna steaks and Nike running shoes.

2) Shimokitazawa (下北沢) Foreigners in Tokyo tend to stick to ex-pat enclaves such as Roppongi for their beer-soaked nightlife, though you don’t have to follow the herd to get your drink on. If you want to be the only foreigner in the bar, then head to this trendy and up-and-coming hipster enclave just west of Shibuya. Shimokitazawa is famous for its tiny hole-in-the wall watering holes, a good number of which only have space for a handful of clients.

1) La Qua (ラクーア) This self-described ‘super spa,’ which is adjacent to the Tokyo Dome in Suidabashi, is an actual Japanese onsen (温泉) or hot spring. While central Tokyo isn’t the first place you’d expect to find hot water bubbling up from the ground, La Qua actually pipes in thermally heated water from the bottom of Tokyo Bay.

You can soak your travel-worn bones in any of La Qua’s luxurious indoor and outdoor baths, which should soften up your skin nicely for the shiatsu massage to follow. Finally, wind down your day on the relaxation floor, where you can drink mango smoothies, sooth your muscles by lying on hot stones, or just read the paper while sipping an herbal tea.

Did we miss anything? Of course we did!

Tokyo is the world’s largest metropolis, so apologies if we left out your favorite destination. On that note, feel free to chime in with your own lists of easy-to-miss spots around Japan’s capital…

Big in Japan: Cirque du Soleil set to open at Tokyo Disney

by Matthew Firestone on

On October 1, 2008, ZED will premier at the brand new Cirque du Soleil Theatre Tokyo at the Tokyo Disney Resort.

According to the official press release: “ZED is a living poem, a timeless evocation that draws on the Tarot and its arcana, an imaginary world that conjures the vitality of the human condition and holds up a mirror to our true selves. The central, larger-than-life character Zed represents all of humanity in all its guises, from wisdom to folly, from discovery to adventure.”

While Japan has previously hosted a number of Cirque du Soleil traveling shows, ZED is an original production that will have its world premier at Tokyo Disney. The show will also highlight the capabilities of the purpose-built Cirque du Soleil Theatre Tokyo, the first dedicated venue for Cirque du Soleil productions in Japan.

Tickets are currently on sale in the Tokyo metropolitan area, and range in price from ¥9,800 (US$90) for regular seats to ¥18,000 (US$160) for center stage floor seats. Keep reading for more info…

Despite its humble beginnings as a performing troupe in Montreal, Canada, Cirque du Soleil or the ‘Circus of the Sun’ is currently a global entertainment phenomenon that draws in crowds of theatergoers from New York to Sapporo. Of course, the stage troupe’s premier billings are mostly located in Las Vegas, which is home to multiple permanent venues that open up to almost 10,000 people every night.

After the opening of ZED on October 1st however, the Cirque du Soleil Theatre Tokyo will be able to give Sin City a run for its money. The purpose built auditorium, which is an architectural wonder in and of itself, will host an estimated 380 shows per year.

True to the Cirque du Soleil franchise, ZED will be characterized by its breathtaking stage antics, colorful costumes and orchestral performance, and will follow an abstract storyline incorporating both Western and Asian elements.

The show will focus on the title character of Zed, who turns to the world of the arcane for inspiration and connection. Throughout his magical journey, he comes across a cast of mythological characters from sphinxes to satyrs.

If you’re living and working in Japan, or you have plans to pass through Tokyo in the near future, don’t miss out on ZED.

Tokyo Disney Resort, which is actually located in Chiba city at Maihama station, is just a short ride from central Tokyo on the JR Keiyo Line. Come out for a dinner and a show, or grab a room at the adjacent Disney Ambassador Hotel and have yourself a holiday!

For ticketing information, you can contact the Cirque du Soleil Theatre Tokyo Information Desk between the hours of 10:00am and 5:00pm at 0570-02-8777, or check out their English-language website at http://www.zed.co.jp/home_en.php.

(Special thanks to my Mom and Dad for scoring me a pair of highly coveted ‘O’ tickets – looking forward to the show!!)

** Images are courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **

Big in Japan: North Korea invents super high-calorie noodle

by Matthew Firestone on

This may just be the coolest bit of news you read all day…

While any news story involving North Korean scientists tends to be about nuclear proliferation, today’s Big in Japan post is in fact a salute to these hard-working men and women.

In a failed state that does not produce enough food to feed its population, and is largely reliant on food aid provided by foreign donors, the invention of a super high-calorie noodle is indeed cause for celebration.

According to a recent article in the Choson Shinbo, a Japan-based, pro-Pyongyang newspaper, North Korean scientists have created a new type of noodle that has twice as much protein and fives times as much fat as ordinary ramen.

Made largely of corn and soybean, the new noodles are an engineering breakthrough in their ability to leave people feeling fuller, longer. The paper also reports that the new super high-calorie noodles are specially designed to delay feelings of hunger.

This culinary achievement is being hailed as further evidence of the mighty and divine power of Kim Il-sung, the deceased ‘eternal ruler’ of the Democratic People’s Republic of North Korea (DPRK).

Keep reading for more on DPRK’s new ramen revolution…

As reported by a pro-Pyongyang newspaper earlier this week, North Korean scientists are celebrating the invention of a new super high-calorie noodle.

According to the Choson Shinbo, “When you consume ordinary noodles made from wheat or corn, you may soon feel your stomach empty. But this soybean noodle delays such a feeling of hunger.”

Sounds good to me. After all, it’s hard to discount the claims of a country ruled by an immortal leader, especially when they come from such official sounding government ministries as the ‘Propaganda and Agitation Department of the Workers’ Party.’ Right.

Of course, the invention of this new type of ramen noodle couldn’t come at a better time, especially since the United Nations (UN) warned last month that North Korean residents are experiencing their worst food shortages in more than a decade.

However, the notoriously reclusive communist country is extremely reluctant to allow foreigners to assess the scale of the problem, or to even allow the proper distribution of emergency food aid within its tightly controlled borders.

So, it looks like the humble ramen noodle might soon take up the front lines in the fight for the hearts and bellies of ordinary North Koreans. Over the next few months, the DPRK government will be mass-producing the noodle, and distributing it in bulk before the bitter winter descends on the Motherland.

Sadly, this is no laughing matter, especially since an estimated one million people starved to death in North Korea in the late 1990s. Furthermore, the World Food Programme (WFP) warned last month that six million people were in urgent need of food aid.

While it’s difficult to actually gauge the severity of the situation on the ground, reports that ordinary North Koreans have taken to scavenging for wild foods are not very encouraging. On that note, let’s all hope and pray that this super noodle really is the miracle food it’s purported to be.

** Images courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **