World’s best adventure travel outfitters

There are a lot of travel outfitters vying for your business. But, who to trust? Which outfitter is going to go that extra step to make sure your accommodations are comfortable enough, your food is tasty enough and your adventure is adventurous enough?

With the understanding that so many people are taking chances with random travel outfitters located haphazardly online, the fine folks at National Geographic Adventure have put together a very cool search engine that rates 157 of the best players out there.

Interested adventurers can search based upon Sustainability, Client Expertise, Quality of Service, Spirit of Adventure, Education, and Best Overall. The ratings can also be broken out by activities, and most importantly, destinations.

In case you’re wondering, the highest scoring overall outfitter is Mark Thornton Safaris, which pulled in a 97.7 score out of 100. According to National Geographic Adventure, “This small Tanzania-only outfitter caps its clientele at 100 per year and delivers unparalleled intimacy on its bush treks across the Serengeti–all of which are led by a team of Maasai warriors and Thornton himself, a ten-year safari guide. His trips are part luxury camping, part field ecology course, and part raw adventure.”

Very cool!

Give this man his own TV show now

Celebrity TV chefs are all the rage, but I reckon I’ve found the next big foodie star way down in Tasmania. Forget Mr Angry Gordon Ramsay or uber-Cockney Jamie Oliver. The next big star shoud be Craig Williams, a former butcher who now runs Pepperbush Adventures in Tasmania. Craig’s preferred culinary gig is Aussie bush tucker and a few hours bouncing around by 4WD in the north Tasmanian bush with him is more fun (and tastier) than anything I’ve done in a while.

Craig’s a big fan of using natural ingredients from the Tasmanian bush, but too modest by half. His describes his steamed Tasmanian trout with sassafrass, lemon myrtle leaves and pepper berries as “Dead Fish With Leaves”, but it’s way more subtle and delicate than that.

Mind you, dining outside around an open fire as you wait for wallabies to start bouncing around at dusk would make any meal pretty special I guess.

War in Panama: attack of the sandflies

Yes, these are my legs. Yes, they have seen better days. I woke up a couple of nights ago and counted 85 sandfly bites on my left calf alone. I don’t understand why I don’t see anyone else chewed to pieces. Why do they love me so much?

Last week, I spent trekking through the Corcovadorainforest in Costa Rica and didn’t get a single bite. I was ready to fight mosquitoes in Panama’s Bocas del Toro, but I wasn’t prepared for sandflies! They have mosquito nets here but those pose no problem for sandflies. The sandfly is basically invisible, doesn’t make a noise, is about a quarter of the size of a mosquito and much faster. By the time you feel them biting you, they are gone. If there is a definition of irregular warfare, this must be damn close.

I brought repellent (40% DEET) and have been using it religiously during my hikes through the jungle. I should have been better about putting it on at night, I guess. That’s when sandflies attack. Apparently, most sandflies are harmless (except for the really itchy bites) but some carry the parasite Leishmaniasis, which can result in ugly sores, scars and if left untreated, death.* That does not sound like fun. Meanwhile, I am putting all my energy into NOT scratching.

* I find that 5 to 6 bottles of Panama beer makes one forget about the imminent death by tropical parasites.

Valley of the Geysers not entirely destroyed

Last June we reported the sad news that a landslide wiped out one of Russia’s most outstanding natural attractions: the Valley of the Geysers.

Although hardly known outside of Russia, this amazing valley, located in the heart of Kamchatka, was home to more than 90 active geysers before a mile-wide mudslide buried it forever–or so the reports at the time led us to believe.

Visitors to the scene–accessible only by helicopter–are now reporting that parts of the valley and its heralded geysers have actually survived. Thanks to a very detailed report by Spanishflyer on LiveJournal.com, we can now see for ourselves what was destroyed and what was spared by Mother Nature’s wrath. A combination of satellite and aerial photos as well as digital imagery clearly shows the path of the mudslide, the geysers destroyed, and the flooding which occurred when the nearby river was dammed by the mud.

The result is a severely damaged Valley of the Geysers that looks like it is still an amazing place to visit–albeit extraordinarily expensive to do so.

If you have the time, be sure to check out the website for a depressing feel for how fickle and temporal our natural world can be.

Armed robberies in Baja keep surfers away

I lived out a hippie fantasy of mine a few years back when an old boyfriend and I drove his truck from Alaska to Mexico, camping the whole way. In Baja, where we camped on a beach for a month, he ran out of money and my funds got pretty low. We had to subsist on a diet of bread, rice, and oatmeal which were alternately flavored with peanut butter, jelly, maple syrup, or chicken bouillon cubes. I think I had one margarita that whole month, but nevertheless it was a great time — dolphins would swim by, I could swim laps along the shore, and my hair even started to dread (which was my incentive to finally wash it).

I could go on about my idyllic pseudo-hippie days, but the point of my story is to compare the Baja of my early twenties to the troubling Baja of today. The San Diego Union-Tribune reports that a half-dozen robberies and car jackings along Baja’s 780-mile stretch have been targeted at U.S. surfers. One story, from a Swamis Surfing Association member, is particularly gruesome:
[Chris] Weber said he and his girlfriend had gone to Baja to escape the foul air caused by the wildfires in San Diego County. Just after sundown Oct. 23, two men wearing military clothing and ski masks confronted the couple.

“They made us get down on all fours – execution position – and put guns to our heads,” said Weber.

Then the armed gunmen sexually assaulted Weber’s girlfriend before taking $10,000
worth of computers, video cameras and other gear. Weber acknowledges that his career guiding surfing tours in Mexico is over, and he urges other would-be Baja surfers to do the same.

Weber’s incident isn’t isolated, and a string of roadside robberies seems to indicate a rising threat to Baja tourists. In similar cases, “the perpetrators fooled tourists into pulling off the road by using flashing lights similar to those mounted on police cars. These thieves forced their victims to kneel and put firearms to their heads.”

These stories alone are practically enough to keep this reformed hippie-wannabe insulated in her tiny Alaska town. But I also know that if I had the chance for another road trip down to Mexico, I’d probably go for it — with extra caution added, and expensive gear left at home.

For more stories and information on how to report an assault, read the Union-Tribune’s article here.

Thanks to Marilyn Terrill over at National Geographic’s Intelligent Traveler for the story tip.