Budget Vacation Guide 2012: Kiev, Ukraine

This summer, soccer fans from around the world will flock to Ukraine when the country co-hosts UEFA Euro2012 with Poland for the very first time. There’s no better time to visit the capital city of Kiev, which has spent the past few years beefing up its tourist infrastructure and recently unveiled a completely redesigned Olympic Stadium in preparation for the final match of the quadrennial European soccer tournament.

If you’re not a soccer fan, or don’t want to shell out the big bucks to ticket scalpers, Kiev offers plenty of cheap diversions. In the warmer months, the city comes alive with flora and fauna, not to mention a packed agenda of free outdoor activities. Lie on the beaches (yes, beaches) of Hidropark in the Dnieper River, or take a cultural stroll through Andriyivskyy Descent, advertised as the “Montmartre of Kiev”. You can even try scaling the Moskovskyi Bridge (but please don’t).

While Kiev has experienced inflation in recent years, it’s still a bargain compared to other European capitals. To keep things cheap during the games, try a short-term apartment rental instead of a hotel; check Airbnb or 9flats for listings. Food-wise, traditional Ukrainian cafeterias are a cultural experience as well as money-saver. Specialties like potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage, and dumplings will provide more than enough fuel for the games.

[flickr image via Matvey Andreyev]

Island of adventure: Brac, Croatia

We’re almost into a new year, so what better time to start planning for some new trips? While there are some great adventure destinations out there that have proven to be well-worth the journey, there are still some lesser known regions that have a lot to offer. One of these is the Island of Brac in Croatia, a region full of outdoor and adrenaline-pumping activities.

Hike up, or mountain bike down, the tallest peak in the Adriatic Islands

Standing at about 2,553 feet high is Vidova Gora, also known as Vitus Mount. From the top, you will be able to have an unobstructed view of beaches, mountain slopes, and some of the Dalmatia Islands. The trek consists of various terrain; at one point it may be rocky and steep while at other times the trail is low and sandy. The most popular hike on the island is from Vidova Gore to Blaca Hermitage.

It is also popular to mountain bike down the peak, which offers a thrilling way to see the scenery. Moreover, the island of Brac itself has a extensively developed network of white roads and single tracks for mountain biking. The paths have virtually no traffic, and the natural scenery of pine woods, olive fields, and secluded beaches combined with the mix of easy and challenging terrain makes this one picturesque adventure. For guided hikes and bike rides, contact Aldura Sport.Scuba dive underwater caves

Brac is home to some excellent scuba diving, especially because the island receives such little rainfall, making for very clear visibility. One great place is Lucica Cave, located in the biggest cove on the island on Brac’s southeast coast. The entrance to the cave is near the exit of the cove, about 10 feet underwater. Once you enter the aquatic cave, the average depth you will experience is about 58 feet, although at times it goes as deep as 134.5 feet. Once inside, you will be amazed at the expansiveness of the cave, as well as the size of the fish. If you’d like to take a diving course or go with a guide in Brac, some reputable operators include Amber Dive Center and Nautic Center Bol.

Windsurf or Kiteboard in the channel between Brac and Hvar Island

Make your way over to Bol on Brac Island and experience the ideal place for windsurfing. The channel between Brac Island and Hvar Island is well-known for its maestral winds that cause stable weather conditions that are perfect for windsurfing. The winds in this area are also stronger than anywhere else on the island, with mild winds in the morning, perfect for getting your practice in. Kiteboarding, water skiing, wake boarding, and para-sailing are also popular in this area. If you’re interested in windsurfing lessons, contact Aldura Sport. For kiteboarding, contact YellowCat Kiteboarding.

Rock climb in the Lozisca region

In Brac, there are over 100 rock climbing routes of varying intensities for visitors to enjoy. The climbing area in Lozisca, a village located in a simple stone glade, is the perfect place for beginner and intermediate climbers due to its variety of available routes. You can get to the village easily from the nearby areas of Sutivan and Supetar. Climbs in this area give participants great views of the the diverse landscape as rolling hills, green valleys, and shimmering water can be seen all at once. For a map of the routes with their intensity grades, click here. One popular tour company for this climb is Aldura Sport, who will give you 3 hours of climbing as well as a lesson to make sure you are prepared.

Sea kayak in an ideal location

The Island of Brac is a premier location for sea kayaking for people of all levels, mostly because of its predictability in terms of winds and currents. It is also very safe, as no matter where you are a beach is only 10 minutes away by kayak. The island also enjoys many areas with little tourism so the water and land can be enjoyed in a truly natural setting. For a more challenging kayaking adventure, the nearby islands of Hvar and Šolta are just few hours of paddling away.

Try the island’s popular sport of stand up paddle surfing

Stand up paddle surfing (SUP), which is a form of surfing that allows for increased visibility, can be done anywhere on Brac Island. One very natural route is Sutivan-Bobovišća. Begin at Sutivan and go along the northwest shore, paddling along a construction-free area of small pebble beaches with almost no boat traffic. For a longer, more challenging route, go all the way to Bobovišća, a town rich in cultural history.

Channel your inner circus performer and try slacklining

First introduced to Croatia during their annual extreme sports festival (see below), Slacklining has become a favorite adventure sport on Brac Island. Think of it as walking a tightrope, as participants walk on a flat nylon rope that is attached to two points. According to Eti Ljubetic Steka of Aldura Sport, one of the major adventure sports companies of Brac, “We usually do
it during the break of climbing sessions or after them during dinner time. For example, after climbing or biking, we take our groups to an authentic shepherd’s village for a traditional dinner, a lamb meal, and while waiting for the dinner we set up a slackline park in the village among the trees and have some fun.”

Attend the annual extreme sports festival, Vanka Regule, in July

For a week every July in Sutivan on Brac Island, peole flock from all over the world to attend the extreme sports festival, Vanka Regule. Since 1999, free climbing, trail running, sea kayaking, mountain biking, free diving, dry tooling, and more are enjoyed by attendees. Along with doing and watching active sports, there is a film festival to go along with the theme.

Send a holiday greeting from above the clouds

Procrastinated on sending Christmas cards this year? It’s not too late to send a holiday greeting to say “Happy New Year” (or Mutlu Yillar in Turkish) with a travel theme. Turkish Airlines has a fun website for generating a virtual holiday greeting with a view of the wing. On Above the Clouds, you can choose a cloud image like a snowflake, Christmas tree, or angel and add a brief message (limited to 40 characters), accompanied by a jaunty version of Turkish Airlines’ theme song, and it will generate an e-card from your window seat.

Make your own greeting at www.newyearclouds.com and Happy New Year!

Sandal Castle, Yorkshire, to host medieval battle on New Year’s Eve


A castle in Yorkshire will be the scene of a reenactment of one of England’s most important battles.

The Battle of Wakefield, fought on December 30, 1460, will be reenacted by the Frei Compagnie. Members of the group will not only be fighting it out medieval style, but will also be displaying medieval arts and crafts and talking about life in the 15th century.

Sandal Castle has an intriguing history. The first castle here was built in the early 12th century in the Norman motte-and-bailey style. An artificial hill had the main house on top, surrounded by a wooden palisade. A larger enclosure and other buildings on level ground were also surrounded by a palisade and the entire thing was further protected by an encircling ditch. These castles were quick, cheap, and easy to make and were one of the ways the new Norman rulers of England suppressed the rebellious Anglo-Saxons. Like many motte-and-bailey castles, the wooden walls of Sandal Castle were later replaced with stone.

The castle’s main claim to fame came during the War of the Roses, when Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, made a bid for the throne. He gathered a great deal of support and fought the armies of Queen Margaret and King Henry VI. In 1460 Richard was at Sandal Castle with an army of a few thousand men when his enemies showed up with a much larger force. Richard’s army was beaten and he was beheaded. The House of York continued to fight, but it was the beginning of the end.

While the original battle was on December 30, the reenactment will be on New Year’s Eve from 1-3pm. For more on Yorkshire’s sights, check out our series Exploring Yorkshire: ghosts, castles, and literature in England’s north.

Images courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

Bowermaster’s Adventures: Protecting the Maldives

Laamu, Maldives— The recent four-day, ocean-focused conference — dubbed WaterWoMen by its sponsors, Six Senses Resortsand +H2O— was a first-of-a-kind blend of water sport activities and intellectual athleticism.

Equal part coming out party for the resort on this remote Maldivian atoll just a100 miles north of the equator included were not just some of the world’s top water athletes (surfers, windsurfers, free divers, kite boarders) but some of the planet’s more thoughtful thinkers on ocean issues as well.

On the athlete side were surfers Layne Beachley and Buzzy Kerbox , windsurfers Levi Silver and Keith Teboul, kite surfers Mark Shinn and Alex Caizergues and extreme wake boarder Duncan Zuur.

The slightly less active contingent included biologist and oceanographer Dr. Callum Roberts; aquatic filmmaker and 3rdgeneration ocean lover Fabien Cousteau; Carl Gustaf Lundin, director of the IUCN’s Global Marine Program; Bollywood producer/director Shekhar Kapur; Chris Gorell Barnes, executive producer of the film “End of the Line;” and Water Charity co-founders Dr. Jacqueline Chan and Averill Strasser.

The Maldives is a perhaps the perfect place for such a meeting since warming sea temperatures have put its coral reefs at risk, thus endangering both its local population and the tourism industry that is its economic base. The event was prudently also a fundraiser for a trio of ocean non-profits:

The Blue Marine Foundation(www.bluemarinefoundation.com), created by Barnes, a recent initiative pushing for ten percent of the world’s ocean to be placed into marine reserves by 2020 (today less than one percent is thus protected);

Plant A Fish(www.plantafish.org), Fabien Cousteau’s hands-on marine education and restoration effort to engage local communities around the globe through schools, businesses and government agencies to “re-plant” aquatic plants and animals in environmentally stressed areas;

Water Charity(www.watercharity.org), focused on providing safe drinking water, effective sanitation and health education to those most in need via the most cost-effective and efficient means.

One the most important subjects whenever marine folk gather is that of how to better protect the ocean at the edges of our coastlines. The statistics are simple and seemingly ridiculous: More than 12 percent of the earth’s land is protected, whether as park, reserve, preserve or sanctuary. Of the ocean, which covers nearly 72 percent of the planet, far less than 1 percent is formally protected.

The Maldives is proudly home to the new, 1,200 kilometer square Baa Atoll World Biosphere Reserve.
One frank discussion during the Maldives gathering included some of the more experienced players in that arena: Callum Roberts, whose “Unnatural History of the Sea” is perhaps the best book out there about how man has so badly treated the ocean over the past 500 years; Chris Gorrell Barnes, a London-based advertising executive who used his promotional skills to help “The End of the Line” move from book to internationally seen film about man’s grave impact on the planet’s fisheries and Carl Gustaf Lundin, who oversees marine and polar programs for the International Union for Conservation of Nature, which is responsible for helping create MPAs around the globe.

Roberts led off and was most direct: “So-called paper MPAs won’t work,” he said, referring to all the talking about, thinking about and hoping to protect parts of the ocean that goes on without actually doing it. “Establishing them, then enforcing the boundaries is key.”

“And only local protection works,” he continued. “Bringing in environmental groups or government agencies from outside won’t work. Local people have to protect their own waters.”

Calling MPAs “barometers” of the ocean, he said he was thankful for the newly announced set aside of the Baa Atoll — one of 26 big atolls that make up the Maldives, which include more than 800 individual islands or smaller atolls — because the Indian Ocean that surrounds the island state has been badly impacted by development stress, overfishing, pollution and, particularly, the impacts of climate change.

Barnes, whose Blue Marine Foundation — created as a follow up to the success of the “End of the Line” — was among several instrumental in getting the Baa Atoll approved as an official UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The goal of Blue Marine is to see 10 percent of the world’s ocean formally protected in the next decade.
“What we need now is not more science. It’s money. The biggest challenge is how to fund marine reserves, especially in bad economic times,” said Barnes.

Working with the IUCN, an MPA five times the size of the one in the Maldives has been set up in the Chagos Islands. “But in order to get that accomplished,” said Barnes, “we had to raise outside money to help the U.K. government, which is a prosperous First World nation. Imagine how difficult it is for countries in the developing world to find money to protect the ocean.”

Roberts chimed in that the money needed to protect even 30 percent of the ocean was not that much, in the big picture. “That would cost just over $14 billion,” he said, “or about the amount spent on beauty care products each year.”

The IUCN’s Lundin suggested that $14 billion was paltry compared to the $70 billion spent by countries around the world to subsidize fishermen. “The big question for MPAs, including here in the Maldives, is how do you subsidize people notto fish?”

He had dived off Laamu earlier in the morning and had seen just five big fish in a stretcher where “I should have seen 50.”

“We have to do better at teaching people that a live manta ray, which helps bring millions of tourist dollars to the Maldives, is a far better deal than killing and selling its gills in China for a few hundred dollars.
“But the time to act is now,” he said,” since we’ve only got 10 percent of the fish left.”

He agreed with Roberts that enforcement was key to making MPAs work.

“We have helped many areas in India gain protection, but enforcement then becomes a low priority. The reality is that you have to hang a few people high from time to time, as example, to help with enforcement,” he said.
The IUCN keeps a list of scofflaw vessels around the globe, including the names of ships and their captains, but Lundin liked the example of Malaysians who when they catch a boat poaching in its waters sink it within 24 hours.

” ‘Warm and fuzzy’ doesn’t always work,” he said. “For MPAs to work, enforcement has to be swift and effective.”