Winter in Alaska: five amazing, unforgettable things to do in Fairbanks

by Darren Murph on

In the spirit of journeying during periods less traveled, I’ve embarked to Alaska this winter. Follow the adventures here, and prepare to have your preconceived notions destroyed along the way.


A glimpse at what Fairbanks offers during the winter

We’ve already discussed a number of amazing activities to do whilst in Anchorage during the winter, but what about Alaska’s second largest city? Fairbanks is about as northerly as it gets for a city in the United States, and those that brave the frigid winters here are most certainly a unique breed. But after taking my thin-skinned, Born In The South attitude up for a little Northern Exposure, I realized that the stereotypes are pretty misguided. For one, the days in Fairbanks during late February and early March are ideal in terms of light; the sun’s peeking out from around 8am to 6pm, just like everywhere else in the Lower 48. Those “it’s dark all day!” stories just don’t apply for the majority of the winter.

Oh, and -33 degrees Fahrenheit? It’s cold, don’t get me wrong, but it’s not deadly. The dry air up in these parts makes 33 below feel a lot less gripping than even five below on the East Coast. I wore basic ski gear most days, and while I definitely looked like a wuss-of-a-tourist, I was sufficiently warm. Granted, a heated Columbia Omni-Heat jacket and a stash of hand warmers don’t hurt, but I could’ve survived even without ’em. Fairbanks is a lovely place to visit in the winter, and frankly, it’s a place (and a season) that shouldn’t be missed by adventurers. Read on for a handful of suggestions to keep you entertained while visiting.1) Chena Hot Springs + “The” Ice Museum

It’s hard to believe that this “semi-remote” resort is still technically in Fairbanks. It’s a solid 60 miles from the city center, and you’ll only find it when you run into a dead end at the terminus of Chena Hot Springs Rd. Guests can choose from cabins or traditional hotel rooms, and while the latter isn’t lavish, having a television, hot shower, modern day plumbing and housekeeping is a package of luxuries not usually associated with a place that has hardly any contact with the real world. The star of this show are the hot springs; sprinting out to 146 degree waters in just a swimsuit sounds crazy. But mix in total darkness and a wind chill down to -40, and you’ve got one unmistakably awesome time. If you stay here, visits to the springs are gratis — if not, a $10 day pass is available. Stopping by with snow stacked up around the waters adds a lot of extra flair, and naturally, the Northern Lights make themselves visible on occasion here being that the nearest city lights are miles (and miles) away.

Oh, and if you’re seriously into art scultping, you should definitely plan a trip to see the Ice Art World Championships.

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2) See the Northern Lights, more than once if possible

Speaking of the Aurora Borealis, Fairbanks is a great jumping-off point to see ’em. They’re a bit like rainbows and unicorns — it’s possible to see one or the other, but it ain’t everyday that they just pop their head out, yell, and wait for you to pay attention. I tried for three straight nights to see the Northern Lights, and it finally came down to parking my car on a hill in Fox, Alaska (north of Fairbanks) and waiting from 1:00am to 1:40am while fighting back the urge to sink into a deep sleep. At 1:40am, the lights came out to dance for a solid hour, and I spent those 60 minutes firing off long exposure shots on a tripod while freezing and trying to stand still as to not shake the DSLR. It was hands-down one of the most moving experiences of my life, and I’d do it again tomorrow with nary a shred of clothing on me if that’s what it came to. Keyword: persistence. Show up with at least three to five nights dedicated to Aurora hunting, and don’t give up too early!

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P.S. – Catch our guide to shooting the Northern Lights here.

3) Visit Coldfoot or some other remote Alaskan outpost

Okay, so there’s a qualification here. The weather in Alaska, particularly during the winter, is about as unpredictable as it gets. Visiting one of the more remote villages in Alaska is a real treat, with Coldfoot, Wiseman, Bettles, Bethel and a host of others just a quick flight away. But if you’re looking to make a side trip out of Fairbanks, I’d recommend planning the excursion for early in your vacation, just in case winter weather forces you to cancel and reschedule. Also, you don’t want to get stuck in a place where you can’t access FAI. The more northerly cities are ideal for Northern Light viewing, and the Northern Alaska Tour Company offers quite a few jaunts to these more remote locations. Failing that, there’s a flightseeing adventure over to Denali, but be warned — thick clouds are generally blocking the peak during winter months.

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4) Fountainhead Auto Museum + Visitors Center

30,000 square feet of classic and collector cars… in Fairbanks? It’s true! The Fountainhead Auto Museum is a real treasure here, being open just a couple of years and packed to the gills with automobiles that are steeped in history. The owners here care deeply about their collection, with over 70 in the stable and around 60 on the floor at any given time. During the winter, it’s open only on Sundays to the public, but tours can easily be arranged. You’ll even find an entire section of cars devoted to Alaska, including what’s believed to be the state’s first-ever automobile. All but three of their cars still runs, and each summer, the owners take ’em for a spin to keep everything lubricated and exercised. During my visit, I was floored with how much history has been maintained with each vehicle, and the condition of the collection is simply outstanding. If you’re a vehicle or history buff, this place is most certainly worth a stop. With just $8 required for entry, it feels a bit like a steal.

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5) Paws for Adventure




I’ve already given you a look at what to expect should you choose to participate in your own dog sled adventure in Fairbanks, but I just can’t help but reiterate how amazing this adventure is. It just feels Alaskan, and considering that both the Yukon Quest and Iditarod go down in the winter months, there’s no better time to start training. Those who can’t get enough during a $90 one-hour tour can sign up for a multiple-day mushing school, after which you may as well go ahead and start shopping for a home in the area. Seriously — fair warning that mushing is addictive. Ride at your own risk.

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These are just a few of the many things to do in Fairbanks during the chilly winter months — if you have any recommendations of your own, feel free to share down in comments below!

My trip was sponsored by Alaska Travel Industry Association, but I was free to report as I saw fit. The opinions expressed in this article are 100% my own.

Five outstandingly delicious places to eat in Alaska

by Darren Murph on

In the spirit of journeying during periods less traveled, I’ve embarked to Alaska this winter. Follow the adventures here, and prepare to have your preconceived notions destroyed along the way.

Particularly in the winter, it’s pretty crucial that you stay warm and well fed while in Alaska. We can’t make any promises about the ease of the former, but we’ve got the latter completely under control. Believe it or not, The Last Frontier is a foodie’s paradise, with a vast number of outstanding local eateries to choose from. During my stay in Anchorage, I was told that there were some 16,000 restaurant permits floating around the greater ANC area, which likely means that you’ve more food options than lodging choices. I was also interested to find that a great many of Alaska’s best eateries are tucked into what we Lower 48ers would call “strip malls.” I’ll admit — prior to visiting AK, I’d visited all 49 of the other states, and strip mall food was rarely a hit. Not so in Alaska. Read on to find out five totally delectable places to eat in the Anchorage and Fairbanks areas; who knows, your favorite hole-in-the-wall might be in there!

%Gallery-118372%1) Silver Gulch

This place didn’t even serve food three years ago, but after being a dedicated brewery for a decade, the owners decided to try their hand at something new. Good thing they did. Located in the tiny town of Fox, Alaska (around 20 minutes outside of Fairbanks), this restaurant and brewery makes its own grub and beer, and it’s easily one of the best meals you’ll find in the greater FAI area. The design of the place is refreshing as well, and the public is welcome to take a tour of the connected brewery at no charge. Looking for a recommendation? The Pub Pommes to get things going, the Halibut Tacos to stuff you and a walk around the brewery to make you feel a little better for overeating.

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2) Seven Glaciers

Perched high atop Alyeska Hotel, this AAA Four Diamond restaurant is a serious treat — from both a visual and deliciousness standpoint. I’ve never been to a place with a more astonishing entrance. In order to get here, you’ll need to step foot into a scenic tram that lifts you up the mountainside in a matter of minutes. The views of the surrounding mountain ranges in Girdwood (~45 miles outside of Anchorage) are downright breathtaking, and the food inside may be even more so. Reserve a table with a windowside view, and feel free to opt for any of the (seriously amazing) fish dishes. You’re in Alaska, after all!

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3) Moose’s Tooth

If you’ve heard of one restaurant in Alaska through the so-called grapevine, chances are it’s Moose’s Tooth. Situated in Anchorage, this place is widely known for having the best pizza in the state, maybe even the country. That’s a pretty tall claim, and after trying it for myself, I’d say the place mostly lives up to the hype. The vibe is laid back, the staff is warm and welcoming, and the service is top-notch. The food is truly world class; the only pizzas that I’ve had to rival this one in taste come from (the now defunct) Giordano’s in Chicago and Mellow Mushroom in North Carolina. Make no mistake — the sheer quantity of wild topping options is worth making a trip for, and I can guarantee you won’t leave disappointed.

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4) Lemongrass

Thai food… in Fairbanks? It’s true! In fact, Fairbanks is fairly well known for having a staggering array of Thai food options, and Lemongrass is a particularly delectable choice. As I alluded to earlier, this one’s tucked slyly within a strip mall of sorts, so it’s fairly easy to overlook. You’d be smart to look it up, though, as everything at the table I sat at drew wide smiles from those eating. Naturally, the Pad Thai was remarkable, so even if you aren’t feeling too adventurous, you can still snag a great Thai meal in Alaska.

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5) Crow’s Nest at the Captain Cook Hotel

I’ll be honest with you; this one’s worth stopping at just for the view. The food is delicious, mind you, but it’s a bit pricey and not quite as on-point as the grub at Seven Glaciers. But if you’re looking for the most impressive view of Anchorage from an eatery in the city, this is it. It’s located on the 20th (i.e. top) floor of The Captain Cook Hotel, and the overlook of the city (shown above) is simply astonishing. Be prepared to pay said view, though, and make absolutely sure you and your partner save room for the Bananas Foster dessert. That alone is worth making a reservation for.

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Obviously, there are a lot more than five great places to eat in the state of Alaska. Southside Bistro, Bear Tooth Theater Pub and Middle Way Cafe all come highly recommended in the Anchorage area, while Big Daddy’s BBQ in Fairbanks calls itself the most northerly place to get southern barbecue. Got any other great recommendations for food in Alaska? Shout ’em out in the comments section below!

[Images provided by Dana Jo Photography]

My trip was sponsored by Alaska Travel Industry Association, but I was free to report as I saw fit. The opinions expressed in this article are 100% my own.

Ten great hotel bars to see and be “scene”

by McLean Robbins on

Craving insider access to the latest celeb hot spots? We’ve got the skinny on the latest “it” venues brimming with notables, views to die for and parties you just can’t miss. With venues such as these we advise you to tread carefully, for your name may be the next to end up splattered across the front page of Page Six… don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Thompson Toronto
Bringing guests one step closer to living the life of a rock-star, the recently opened Thompson Toronto has quickly become a local hot spot boasting a chic private rooftop lounge where VIP’s can sip signature Hot Toddies while taking in views of the Toronto skyline. We hear the 102-room hotel has played host to celebs such as James Franco, the Kardashians and Usher along with many more. With trendy signature restaurants including famed Chef Scott Conant’s, Scarpetta and the hot late-night staple, The Counter, Thompson Toronto is rating Extra Hot on the “Ultimate Hang Out” meter.

The Waikiki EDITION
Discreet entrances and uninhibited dancing are just a few reasons why Crazybox at the Waikiki EDITION is one of the hottest new venues around. The hot, new nightlife favorite has an exclusive VIP section with its own private entrance that is elevated above the dance floor positioning notables such as Christina Aguilera, Bruno Mars and Woody Harrelson into the center of the action, while still maintaining their privacy. For party goers who prefer the daytime scene check-out the hotel’s Sunrise pool, where the luxury set are seen sipping Mai-Tai’s and enjoying poolside spa treatments or canoodling on private day beds.

The PuLi Hotel and Spa
Pink Champagne flows freely in Shanghai’s The PuLi Hotel and Spa. The PuLi is home to a scene of its own featuring Shanghai’s “longest” wine and champagne selections by the glass. The hotel’s Long Baris usually a buzz with in-the-know locals and glitteratti alike, sipping favorites from the menu and taking in the breathtaking views from JingAn Park. Frequent movers-and-shakers include high-rollers from LVMH and The Gucci Group along with famed designer Giorgio Armani. The bars atmosphere uniquely transforms in character and mood throughout the day creating chameleon-like experiences patrons can call their own.

Hotel Cipriani
“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go,” said Truman Capote, the famous author and comedian. Travelers looking for such a sweet retreat can opt for Hotel Cipriani, located on the secluded lagoon island of Guidecca in Venice. The world-renowned Orient-Express property regularly hosts such celebrities as George Clooney. Guests can even enjoy a cocktail that is inspired by the “sexiest man alive” – the “Buona Notte” – honoring the premier of “Good Night, Good Luck” at the 62nd Venice Film Festival. Boasting a panoramic view of St Mark’s Square, the waterfront Cip’s Club is an idyllic spot for those looking for a dazzling view while being seen amidst affluent travelers.

InterContinental London Park Lane
As the city – and world – prepares for this generation’s historic Royal Wedding, InterContinental London Park Lane announces the launch of a brand new bar, fittingly called The Arch Bar. Offering sweeping views of the outside gardens and parks as well as the iconic Wellington Arch, The Arch Bar is largely gin-focused, with a strong emphasis on fresh ingredients and complete with its own botanical apothecary. A wide spectrum of the highest quality spirits are available – as well as a number of virtually undiscovered artisan London producers – including 25 different gins. Favoured by notable guests during the whirlwind periods of London Fashion Week and the Frieze Art Fair, the hotel’s bar plays host to royals, key designers and artists alike, with highlights from the cocktail list including Mother’s Ruin made with Six o’Clock Gin; Tuppence Duty, a mix of champagne, fresh lemon and Fifty Pound Gin; and Ernest Roots – a new take on the classic Hemingway Daiquiri.

Mount Nelson Hotel
Mount Nelson Hotel is proud to announce the newly opened Planet Restaurant. Reflecting the hotel’s popular, celebrity-studded Planet Bar, the glamorously restyled restaurant underwent a stellar four month face-lift and now features a celestial chic design with Swarovski crystal tiles, deep blue carpet featuring the constellations and chandeliers emulating the illusion of shooting stars. Chef Rudi Liebenberg’s legendary springbok pie and tomato variation dishes are still featured on the menu, as well as a daily soufflé and indulgent degustation menus for all. Star Gazer Alert: We hear that A-listers such as Kate Moss and Prince Harry have been spotted sipping cocktails at this newly opened hot spot.

The Surrey Hotel
Be seen at The Surrey hotel located on Manhattan’s exclusive Upper East Side neighborhood and just a half block from Central Park. Step inside the hotel’s Bar Pleiades after a long day of shopping on Madison Avenue to join the scene or simply people watch over a seasonal mixed cocktail. Designer Lauren Rottet’s vision for the bar as a “stage” has come to life as The Surrey has become the newest Upper East Side haunt of mover-and-shaker neighborhood residents and the socialite crowd. During the warmer months, hotel guests can relax on the rooftop garden terrace which offers a true urban oasis with unbeatable views of the city and nearby Central Park.

W- Washington DC
Even the President knows where the celebs in DC go to party, at none other than the rooftop POV Lounge at the W Hotel. Overlooking the White House lawn, the former Hotel Washignton has been renovated into a hostpot for Beltway insiders like Valerie Jarrett and Reggie Love as well as celebs including Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony, Common, John Legend and many, many more. In cool weather, ask for a blanket and cozy up to their warm sips like Hot Peanut Buttered Rum and S’More Whiskey.

Hotel St. Barth Isle de France
Want to vacation like a celebrity? Hang with the likes of Jay-Z, Beyonce and Fergie on the hottest island in the Caribbean – St Barth. The exclusive Hotel St. Barth Isle de France welcomes guests to its gorgeous resort positioned on the picturesque Flamands Bay. Situated amidst enchanting tropical gardens and pristine beaches, Isle de France boasts 39 rooms, suites and villas that have become a home away from home for A-listers around the world. Take in the scene at the patio bar, walk the white-sand beach, take a dip in your privateinfinity plunge pool and relax in the beauty of an intimate Caribbean retreat full of classic European charm.

Banyan Tree Bangkok
The place to be seen in Bangkok, Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar, located on the 61st Floor of the Banyan Tree Bangkok hotel, is unique in presenting a different yet aesthetic urban landscape of Bangkok with breathtaking panoramic views of the city. Since its opening in January 2002, it has fast become a hot spot for locals and visitors from all parts of the world. With a 100-guest capacity, this open-air rooftop lounge is divided into three sections – a dining courtyard, a private party lounge and the Moon Bar – for a romantic tête-à-tête, birthday celebrations, fashion launches or just to relax under a canopy of stars.

Discovery Adventures travel company debuts 2011’s Discovery Channel-inspired trips

by Laurel Miller on

Armchair traveler red alert! Discovery Adventures is offering eight new Discovery Channel-inspired cultural trips for 2011, including Greece, Turkey, Italy, France, Japan, and East Africa. Explore archaeological sites near Athens, visit wineries in Tuscany, safari in Kenya, or soak in hot springs in the Japanese Alps. Trips are limited to 16 people, and run from eight to 15 days. Accommodations range from boutique hotels and inns with local character to eco-lodges.

Discovery Adventures has teamed up with adventure travel industry leader Gap Adventures and non-profit Planeterra to offer travelers more opportunities to positively impact the lives of communities around the world. Each trip provides travelers with an opportunity to visit destinations (often traveling by traditional modes of transport such as rickshaw or elephant) and interact with local people in an ecologically-responsible manner. In addition to your guide, you’ll be accompanied by local historians, archaeologists, artisans, and naturalists. Time to get off that Barcalounger!

[Photo credit: Flickr user Arno & Louise Wildlife]

Surveying the Paris food scene: a mecca again — but is it French?

by David Downie on

The blogosphere, social media and even some normally sober dead-tree publications roar 24/7 about Paris’s contemporary food scene. Hyperbole artists daily declare this the globe’s greatest restaurant city, rebooted after lengthy decline. Upstarts in New York and London are fini, and eternal Rome is ancient history.

French cuisine is back, again?

Well, maybe.

One thing’s certain: Paris is a favorite of food lovers and peripatetic hedonists. They wing and waddle here for the cosmopolitan dining scene and the peerless patisseries, world-class bakeries, chocolate-makers, specialty food emporiums, wine and cheese and butcher shops, and scores of open markets. Goods and services range from the sublime to the ridiculous. But the overall effect, the sense of epicurean opulence, is mesmerizing.

Paris also happens to host one of the world’s great hayseed jamborees, the annual agricultural fair. Earthy, nose-twitching and kitsch, the Salon d’Agriculture transforms the Porte de Versailles into a farmyard feeding frenzy for nine days in late February. The 1,000 exhibitors draw an average 650,000 gawkers. Showcased are the combines, farming techniques, Far Side bovines, and rustic eats that make France the world’s number-two agricultural power. Thirty-five countries participated this year. But as always, France was the star. Its roosters crowed louder. And when it came to prize-winning cattle, there was plenty of French bull.The fair’s thundering herds have barely had time to vacate as thousands of foodie professionals swarm city eateries. For the second year running, this week (March 3-6) Paris welcomes the International Cookbook Fair and Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, truly a mouthful. Last year’s edition enticed 154 countries, with eight in ten of the cookbooks coming from outside France. The trend continues in 2011. Is this a commentary on French cooking?

Well, the imminent death of la cuisine française was already announced in the 1990s — but strangely enough, the invalid still seems healthy. Last November, UNESCO declared the French way of cooking and eating part of humanity’s “intangible cultural heritage.” Cocky nationalists were not the only ones to crow, but some skeptics wondered whether UNESCO was championing a species that was crossbreeding itself into oblivion.

At the very least, assuming the intangible heritage exists, it’s only one of many models for contemporary French cuisine. The truth is that the French culinary table is now more varied – and some would say, vibrant — than ever.

Trendy Paris restaurants like Mini Palais, Spring, Le Chateaubriand, Frenchie, La Gazzetta, Yam’tcha, Rino, Les Tablettes, La Bigarrade or Thoumieux are booked solid weeks ahead. Whether any of the above serves French cuisine as contemplated by UNESCO is an open question best not asked. Paris’s hip and monetarily mobile glory in the wild confusion of ingredients and techniques. The orgy of neo-post-fusion and retro flavors, served separately or folded together, is dionysian. Paris’s avant-garde chefs riff on haute and cuisine d’auteur, dipping into the passé as desired. Menus, when used, promise culinary adventurism of the kind pioneered abroad – in New York, London, San Francisco and Sydney.

Surprising? No. Many new wave Paris chefs are foreign or trained outside France. Daniel Rose (Spring) is from Chicago. Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand) is Basque. Grégory Marchand (Frenchie) cut his teeth among les Anglo Saxons. Petter Nilsson (La Gazzetta) is Swedish. Giovanni Passerini (Rino) is Italian. Adeline Grattard (Yam’tcha) worked in Hong Kong, returning with husband and a passion for tea.

It’s only natural that many of Paris’s hottest venues are see-and-be-seen playgrounds of gastronomy. Self-styled foodistas and gastronauts groove with acolytes of the burgeoning Parisian foodie fundamentalist movements Le Fooding and Omnivore. They reward novelty for novelty’s sake, challenging the ancien régime symbolized by the seriously passé Michelin-starred chefs. These days Robuchon, Ducasse and Savoy are so many Ben Alis, Mubaraks, and Gheddafis.

Stir in the global fashionistas and le people – hipster-speak for beautiful people – and yesterday’s bread-and-circuses becomes today’s edible art. The bread is the circus. Edibles are playthings. In this universe excellence is measured in terms of le fooding experience being ludique – i.e., fun. No matter how skilled the cook is, entertainment and atmosphere outweigh his artworks.

Gauging deliciousness or the fun-quotient is perilous. Silly complication rules. But anyone noting the emperor’s nakedness on an Ipad menu at Les Tablettes risks electronic crucifixion. Evoking le funky old Chateaubriand – before it was declared the world’s top restaurant – is heresy. Only traitors wonder what’s fun about a four-hour culinary ordeal at La Bigarrade – with postage-stamp, mismatched, roughly sliced raw veal topped with carrot flowers, herring eggs, translucent radish and ginger. And why succulent squab should share space with sublime sweetbreads at Spring is a question only an uninitiated anti-revolutionary could ask. Eat at home if you don’t like tea.

What’s astonishingly retro is how alike the songbooks are of ancient Nouvelle Cuisine evangelists and current foodie fundamentalists. “The more things change,” quipped Alphonse Karr, “the more they stay the same.” And that was in 1839.

Media noise makes it easy to forget that complication, choreographed creativity and covens of fashion-conscious cultists are only one slice of the Parisian pie. Michelin’s vision of haute still has followers. Taillevent is the flagship of a fleet of grandes tables preserved in a sea of aspic. A remnant population of classic French and authentic – not faux retro – bistros serve grandma’s real recipes to the unregenerate. Bistronomie, the trumpeted gastronomic bistro fare so many taste buds and wallets endorse, bridges the genres.

Even the bottom link of the food chain shines bright. McDonald’s France has 1,161outlets – the conglomerate’s second largest earner. But, of course, en France macaroons grace Ronald’s menu. C’est chic et ludique. UNESCO surely approves.