Locals Only. Whatever.

by Iva Skoch on

Adventure travelers tend to describe their favorite places abroad like this: “There are no tourists there, it’s just the locals.” That, of course, does not include the writer, who is, inevitably, a tourist. It’s just that he/she thinks he is slightly better (more worldly, less loud, etc.) than the other tourists.

I have always been torn about this issue. When I travel, I like to think that I go to the less touristy places, but the “locals-only” tags scare me. First of all, it is a bit hypocritical to go to a “locals-only” place as a tourist. Next thing you know, it will be in Lonely Planet described as a locals-only joint and locals will have to find a new place. And, those same tourists will also stop going, realizing that a locals-only place has go tourists-only or expensive, or both. At that precise moment, it disappears from Lonely Planet or is renamed “tourist trap.” Here is an example.This has happened to quite a few wonderful Czech pubs, too, for example U Fleku. It’s quite sad, if you think about it.

But that is not the only thing that intrigues me about people’s attraction to “locals only” places. I first discovered it when I realized that I am about the only person in Prague not concerned about “touristy places.” As a Czech native, it would never even occur to me to go to places where only locals hang out. I actually prefer to go to more cosmopolitan hangouts; a lot of natives do. Just like you would be hard-pressed to find New Yorkers hanging out in fried chicken joints because that’s what a lot of locals do, it is the same way in Prague. It is my foreign friends in Prague who always demand to go to some “locals only” place. I guess they derive some weird pleasure out of fulfilling their stereotypes of Eastern Europe: crusty old men playing cards and drinking beer. It’s like observing wild animals in their natural habitat…

Red Corner: Finding your Blini in Moscow

by Neil Woodburn on

It’s a common curse facing many developing nations: the local economy improves, money starts to flow, and suddenly ethnic restaurants start popping up on street corners everywhere because locals–long tired of eating the same old national dish–want to try something new and fashionable.

Over time, sushi and Thai food replace local cuisine and it soon becomes very difficult to find a restaurant that actually serves any local food at all.

This becomes a big problem for tourists; one doesn’t travel all the way to Moscow, for example, to eat sushi.

Thankfully, the good folks at The Independent have realized how this problem affects out-of-towners in Russia’s capital where ethnic restaurants have run amuck. Robin Buss has therefore put together a rather extensive article aimed at helping hungry tourists in Moscow find that traditional Muscovite meal. Be sure to take his advice; pass on the hamburgers and sushi and jump right into the caviar and borscht. You’ll be very happy you did.

Dining in Dushanbe: Rohat

by Adrienne Wilson on

Here’s another one you’ll find in the Central Asia LP guide under the teeny section devoted to all things Tajikistan. Rohat is a large Persian-style chaikhana (teahouse) perfect for passing the time away watching locals and an expat or two parade by on Rudaki. The somewhat open-air atmosphere with high decorative ceilings makes it a cool spot to be during lunch or dinner hours.

On the menu you’ll find traditional Tajik fare and Russian dishes as well. Overall there were mixed reviews on the food. I went with Lagman, a soup dish which was a bit bland for my tastes, but offered heat as the night became a little chilly. Service was decent, menu prices good and LP basically nailed this one on the head as well. Order some tea, have a snack and chatter the evening away.

Rohat is located at Rudaki 84.

Dining in Dushanbe: Chinese Restaurant

by Adrienne Wilson on

Lunch at the Chinese restaurant was like a blur. Perhaps it is not even fair of me to provide a review considering all the factors: eight very jet lagged and hungry foreigners together for the first time with one very quaint young waitress. I would not wish that situation upon anyone, but allow me to talk only on the food.

My taste buds lead me to a spicy chicken dish and I sampled some of the fried rice off a companion’s plate. Now, I have had a large amount of Chinese food in my lifetime and in comparison to all the rest this little Chinese joint next door to the Indian spot off of Rudaki doesn’t get any medals. The food was okay, but I’ve had much better Chinese in parts of Alabama. On the up side it’s a great place to stop if you’re searching for fare less greasy/oily than some of the traditional Tajik finds around the town.

Affordable (low-mid range) and extremely accommodating staff.

Dining in Dushanbe: Sim Sim

by Adrienne Wilson on

I’m not entirely sure when Sim Sim came into existence or why it didn’t make guidebooks, but all that doesn’t really matter. If you’re searching for live over-the-top entertainment, decent dishes and a chance to hob-knob with some of Dushanbe’s upper-class you’ve found the right place.

Before entering listen closely for the warm welcome into Sim Sim. It’ll be hard to miss as the boisterous fellow dressed as a Mongol man from some fairy-tale time long ago will be sure to make his presence known there and throughout the evening. Walk up the steps and proceed to your table after passing through the guards staffed with spears and shields. Sim Sim is all show so it’s advised you have the time to make it a full night and the energy as well. As your make your order sway to the sounds of Celine Dion hits sung by Tajik karaoke singers in addition to traditional Tajik tunes as well. The singers come across pretty lifeless, but the real show begins after you’ve placed your order. Complete with belly dancers, traditional Tajik dancers and skits by our Mongol pals in the castle it gets pretty wild, a little tacky, but you’re sure to laugh and have a ball of a time. (If you’re geeked up about dining in a place like Sim Sim feel free to check out my very poorly produced video clip from my night out.)

In regards to the food, I believe I received the wrong dish or the remixed version of it that night. I had requested the Khasray Kastle, a beef roll with asparagus, but what showed up didn’t really taste like beef and had peas with no asparagus to be found. Disappointed? Yes and I was far too tired to send the dish back after waiting 30 plus minutes for it in the first place.

To wrap it up the food is so-so, but the good times non-stop. Sim Sim is not located on the main drag so you’ll just need to ask a taxi driver to take you there and you’ll be on your way.

Salamati!