Putting the Cook back in the Cook Islands

It took a long time to find something good to eat on the Cook Islands, but when we finally did,
it was worth the wait.  As mentioned in an earlier post, the food at our resort was
virtually unpalatable (with the exception of a pretty tasty breakfast of fresh fruit and pastries).  We lucked out
one evening when we called for a taxi and chatted with our driver, Frank, about our disappointment.  Frank and his
wife Liza have run a taxi service (Phone number 20203) on Rarotonga for the last two years after having moved to the
island from New Zealand.  Both proved a wonderful resource on the best restaurants the island had to offer (for a
few other, independent recommendations, click here and here).

We took Frank’s list and made sure to visit every place he recommended. One word of advice before visiting,
however: reservations are essential on Rarotonga.  Not because of too many tourists, but so the kitchens can be
prepared with enough food. 

The following is a short description of our favorites. 

The Windjammer.  Our very favorite.  We visited this restaurant many times and were
overjoyed with the selection of fresh fish and meat.  Everything had a tropical twist to it and was so tasty that
we very well could have been in a top-end restaurant in a major city.  Even the desserts were outstanding. 

The Kikau Hut.  A wonderfully pleasant hut operated by a couple of New Zealand expats. 
Great food and great wine selection. 

Trader Jack’s.  A scenic location right on the harbor (although twice destroyed by
hurricanes), Trader Jack’s specialized in fish dishes.  I had some wonderful Mahi Mahi wrapped in banana
leaves. Mmmmm.  Show up early and drink with Jack himself at the waterfront bar. 

The Flame Tree. Another cozy restaurant with delicious curries, a superb bar, and a lovely island
atmosphere.

Sails.  A wonderfully located restaurant, this time right on picturesque Muri Lagoon. 
VERY slow service, and slightly better than average food but still worth visiting for the beautiful view. 

Café Salsa.  Located in the center of “town,” Café Salsa is a
convenient stop while doing the obligatory, half-day walkthrough of the capital, Avarua.  Pizzas are hit or miss,
but the pasta dishes are great and cheap.

 

Speakeasy Eating

I
mentioned the old speakeasy Chumley’s in a post a while back because it is one of my favorite places in New York City.
There really aren’t any more speakeasies around since alcohol is now legal. But there is a new phenomenon spreading in
places like New York and San Francisco that is quite interesting: speakeasy cuisine.

This article in the SF Chronicle
discusses the secret eating culture in SF. But I know for a fact that this type of thing exists in Manhattan. People
offer their private homes for personal dining experiences…they are, of course, hard to find. They are also often
illegal.

The place they mention in the SF Chronicle piece is called Ghetto Gourmet, and it is said to be one of the hottest restaurants in the
Bay Area that you have never heard of.  Ghetto Gourmet isn’t listed in the phone book and there is no sign out
front. You find it by word of mouth…and then your stomach becomes very happy. Personally, I love the idea of these
secret dining hideaways. In fact, after writing this post I’m going to see if I can find some around here in the city,
and will post what I find.
 

Bette

Why does Wallpaper* magazine like Bette so much? Is it her feminine lilac, pink, and peach tones she sports
against chocolate brown leather, both classy, and intimate? Could it be her box-like figure or old 19th-century
Parisian style that sticks out in Manhattan streets? Structure would probably make for a better word than figure and if
Bette really were a woman she wouldn’t be perfect, but very darn close. Instead she is an outlet, a restaurant and a
meeting place for friends and lovers. Transformed from a London Terrace, Bette waits in Chelsea at exactly 461 West
23rd Street, NYC for the lonely, loved and starved who will either come to gawk at her interior or simply to have their
fill. Wallpaper* does little to describe her menu pages, but coming from a mag obsessed with frame, build and decor,
they leave the tasting for you to explore. Hope she’s all you ever wished for.

In-Flight Magazine: Hemispheres

Lights are normally out
for me long before the Captain turns off the seat-belt sign and it’s safe to walk around the cabin. Falling asleep on a
plane is a technique I exercise regularly and managed to master with ease. Time flies faster and the flight seems
shorter when you sleep. Typically I get a head-ache if I try to do too much like read or write (I believe it’s the
motion), but I’ve recently tried kicking my usual habits to read some of the in-flight mags. Not that the in-flight
reading is necessarily phenomenal and many of the pages are often sucked up by advertisements, nevertheless thinking
there might be something of interest I grabbed the latest issue of United / Ted’s Hemisphere’s magazine.

In this month’s Three Perfect Days, a column featured in each issue, Marvin
Hokstam points readers to the best Dutch Caribbean island, St. Maarten has to offer. First recommendation is a stay at
the Sonesto Maho Beach Resort & Casino, which has a motto for being a "destination within a destination."
For your hungry stomach and taste-buds make note to try the conch soup with rice and peas in Grand Case. Visits to the
Lotterie Farm (a former sugar plantation) and the Sunset Beach Bar at St. Maarten’s airport are highly encouraged and
this is only day one. Picturing two more days of beach, guavaberry colada, and snorkeling won’t be too difficult, but
look to the rest of the article found on the website if St. Maarten is anywhere on your radar.

Fishing Made Easy

Some people go fishing and spend thousands of dollars on graphite rods, expertly tied flies, boat sonar and all
manner of exorbitantly priced gewgaws that they use to improve their chances of landing their finned prey. But you have
to ask yourself if it’s really worth all the time and money once you see this video from Brazil. Seems all you need to
have the fish literally jumping into the boat is a cheap little skiff and a lamp. That ,and perhaps a net so that as
the fish flop around, you can snatch them up and drop them in the cooler for later eating.

But seriously, check out this video posted about over at Divester by Bill Reals. You’ll marvel. You’ll  laugh. You’ll gaze at your $400
rod and weep.