Post-quake life in Tokyo: 6 weeks after

One of the absurdities of the modern media cycle is that news stories seems to drop off the radar well before they reach a conclusion. While there are still occasional mentions of the situation here in Japan, for the most part the media has moved on to Libya, Osama Bin Laden, Governor Schwarzenegger and the scandals at the IMF.

Six weeks after the fact, the situation in Japan has most definitely not reached a neat and tidy conclusion. This past week saw the decommissioning of the Hamaoka nuclear plant, the release of pictures from Fukushima capturing the moment that the tsunami waves first hit and the anticipated resignation of TEPCO’s disgraced CEO.

Clean-up efforts are still underway up north, and it is going to be months if not years before all the debris is removed. The longer-lasting questions will be to what extent Japan can expect a future public health crisis, and whether or not agricultural capacity can resume to previous levels. Japan’s commercial production will also continue to suffer from disrupted supply chains and lack of consumer demand.

Here in Tokyo, the economic gears continue to churn and life goes on as best it can. In fact, to the casual visitor it can appear as if nothing catastrophic really ever happened at all. With that said, please indulge me for a few hundred words as I give a quick update on post-quake life here in Tokyo.In short, things are good, but they could be better.

The terrifying aftershocks that paralyzed Tokyoites for the month following the 9.0 temblor appear to have finally stopped. Not entirely mind you, but to the point where you can reasonably expect to sleep through the night without being woken up with a shake. Of course, Tokyo lies at the convergence of three plates, which means that the likelihood of another major seismic event is highly likely.

Yet people are much more prepared than they were before. Department stores across the city continue to sell earthquake kits comprised of essential items including hard hats, flashlights, spare batteries, first aid kits and freeze dried rations. Schools and businesses are also actively drilling people on how to escape from buildings and reach the nearest shelter.

Private and public infrastructure improvement is also underway across the city. My building is currently having all of its piping refitted to meet higher safety ratings. The gas company has also made the rounds to ensure that there was no damage to its storage tanks and transfer lines. Across the street from where I live, there are crews working around the clock to reinforce a weakened drainage canal.

It’s certainly debatable whether or not these minor improvements can increase the resistance of a city as massive and earthquake susceptible as Tokyo. But they certainly do go a long way in calming mass fears and reassuring residents.

The other major issue continues to be electricity shortages, especially since it will still be quite some time before the country’s power grid is fully restored. Summer is also around the corner, which means additional burdens on the grid imposed by air-conditioning. This threatening storm cloud does however have a silver lining – the Japanese are embracing green technology and eco-practices like never before.

DIY hardware stores including Tokyu Hands and Ikea are promoting compact fluorescent and LED bulbs. Television programs are also encouraging Tokyoites to fill their balconies with plants. Broad leaves and hanging vines help to block invasive sunlight and keep down internal temperatures. They also go a long way in beautifying a city best known for its rampant use of concrete and neon.

In recent years, Japan’s conservative armies of self-dubbed salarymen and office ladies have grown accustomed to more relaxed summer dress codes. This ‘Cool Biz’ campaign allows companies to opt for business casual, thereby going easy on the air-conditioning without discomforting its employees. This year, there is even talk about going one step further by allowing casual dress days that permit the wearing of shorts and sandals.

As I posted earlier on Gadling, food scares remain one of the most pressing issues facing Tokyoites. In their defense, the government has done a decent job of scanning produce, meats and seafood for radiation, along with certifying products from affected areas. This is all in conjunction with economic promotion efforts to get Tohoku farmers, ranchers and fishermen back to work as soon as possible.

Still, frightened consumers are instead choosing produce from western Japan and imported meats from Australia, Canada and the US. At my local fishmonger, which used to only stock seafood from around the Japanese archipelago, I can now find Argentine shrimp, Chinese crab, Norwegian whitefish, Canadian salmon and various tropical species from across Southeast Asia.

Rather predictably, tourist numbers remain low, and many hotels and other tourist-related businesses are struggling to keep their doors open.

While vacationing at a popular hot spring resort this past weekend, I discovered that I was in fact the only guest in a building equipped to lodge and feed several hundred! The staff had all packed up their personal belongings and returned to their hometowns, leaving behind a sole caretaker to answer phone calls and keep watch over the property. On the bright side, I’ve never before had such personalized and attentive service!

Japan has weathered through great challenges before, and few have little doubt that they’ll do so once more. And in the great scheme of life on this planet, six weeks is a rather short period of time. On that note, I will continue to update Gadling readers as to the status of post-quake life in Tokyo, and together let’s hope that my next blog will bring rosier news.

[Images courtesy of the Wikimedia Commons Project.]

Welcome to Dekotora, Japan’s decorative truck craze

Any American who’s watched TV in the last 10 years knows about the custom wheels featured on shows like Pimp My Ride or American Chopper. But despite all the crazy cars that have been built with plasma TV’s inside and motorcycles tricked out to look like robots, it seems they’ve got nothing on a very unique decorative truck-building craze in Japan called Dekotora.

Dekotora, a Japanese abbreviation for “decorative truck,” is a category of elaborately decorated vehicles built by hobbyists in Japan. These brilliant rigs, decked out in blinding UV and neon lights, shiny decorative metal parts and wild neon colors, are built by passionate Japanese truckers looking to get some attention and show off at special events. They look less like drive-able vehicles than life-size Transformer robots, ready to lift off the road and head into battle. Interestingly enough, many attribute the start of the craze to the 1970’s, when a Japanese film series called the “Truck Guys” featured a protagonist with a wildly decorated rig driving around the country.

This passion for custom vehicles isn’t just limited to Japan. In India, rickshaw drivers add custom mud flaps to their rides featuring in Bollywood film stars. And in Thailand, bus drivers have been known to deck out their coaches with airbrushed cartoon characters and elaborate fantasy scenes. Apparently the international driving community is much more artistic than you might expect! Seen any crazy vehicle art during your own travels? Tell us about it in the comments.

[Photo courtesy of Viernest]

Gallery: More travel sketches from BBC’s Tim Baynes


We wrote yesterday about Tim Baynes’ delightful travel sketches from around the world on BBC and liked them so much we came back for more. You can (and should!) get lost for hours looking at his drawings on Flickr with fun anecdotes and scribbles bringing depth and humor to his slice-of-life artwork.

Check out some of our favorites in the gallery below, from a look inside the BBC Starbucks to the madness of Dubai immigration during the ash cloud to a quiet barbershop in Tripoli.

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See more of Tim Baynes’ work on the BBC, his personal Flickr stream, or order a copy of his book Doors to Automatic and Cross Check, direct from the artist.



All photos courtesy of Tim Baynes.

Pillow Fight World Cup kicks off in Brooklyn

Eurovision chose a winner this weekend and the Olympics aren’t for another year, so what sporting event will next unite countries and provide entertainment for the world? Tonight is the first-ever Pillow Fight World Cup and participants from Sweden, Japan, Austria, and, of course, the United States are expected to compete. Did we mention the pillow fight entrants are all female? Rest assured, this will be no fluff match. Austria is sending their entire league (yup, they have one) and the Americans have been training with the creator of Punk Rock Pillow Fight.

Get acquainted with the firm but supportive (like a good pillow) contenders on the official PFWC website and go cheer on Team USA tonight. Events kick off at 7pm at Brooklyn’s Polish National Home. Tickets are $20 at the door but a select number are available free if you RSVP fast.

Where Would You Travel for a Meal?

Just what motivates us to travel? What exactly inspires us to get on a plane and, thousands of miles later, blurry eyed and sleep deprived, to step into a place that was hitherto unknown to us? I’d be willing to guess that for an increasingly large amount of leisure travelers, “food” might be near the top of the list.

Last week, hundreds of hungry people attended the Lucky Rice Festival in New York City, an annual weeklong feast of all things Asian and eating. During the “Grand Feast,” where a couple dozen chefs served up Asian-inspired snacks and curious cocktails (a martini spiked with a whole baby squid, anyone?) in a large Mandarin Oriental hotel ballroom overlooking Central Park, I put my hypothesis to the test. I asked some of the chefs at the festival – many of whom are New York City’s most esteemed toques – to answer one simple question:

Where would you travel for a meal?


“Malaysia. I’m fascinated with the growth and interest in Southeast Asian food. Thre are so many undiscovered foods there that we in America have not even discovered yet. I’d also eat my way through the spice route.”
-Todd English
Celebrity chef, owner of umpteen restaurants

“I would say Morocco. I’m fascinated with spices. I’d like to have a local, say, in Marakesh, take me to the food and spice market and from there we’d construct an entire meal out of what we buy.”

Angelo Sosa
Top Chef alum (season seven)
Executive Chef, Social Eatz

“Thailand. I’d just travel around the country and eat everything I saw. I did that when I was in France and it was great. I’d try to find new stuff, food that hasn’t really come here yet, food that’s unknown to us.”

Eric Hara
Executive Chef at 9 Restaurant and Pier 9

“Vietnam. I’ve always wanted to go there. The country’s culinary history is amazing. There’s a long story behind every dish there. From a chef’s perspective, Vietnam would be great.”

Brandon Kida
Chef de Cuisine, Asiate

“I would go to Portland, Oregon. I was just there, actually, and now I already want to go back. The food and restaurants there are incredible. The people are willing to do interesting and creative things with food there. They’re doing their own coffee, their own distilling. There’s just a lot going on in Portland.”

Brad Farmerie
Executive Chef, Public

“Well, India for sure. But I’d also go to San Francisco. It’s such a great food city. I’d go there and focus eating California cuisine.”

Hemant Mathur
Executive Chef, Tulsi

“Apart from just staying here in New York City, I’d go to Bangkok. Specifically, I’d go to David Thompson’s new restaurant. It’s called Nahm, which means ‘water’ in Thai, in the Metropolitan Hotel. I trained under him and I haven’t eaten at any of his restaurants since he left Australia. After that, there would be a thousand more restaurants I’d eat at.”

Ty Bellingham
Executive Chef, Kittichai

“Kerala, India. The food there is extremely fresh. If you want an oyster, for example, there’s a guy who will jump into the water right then and get one for you. It’s a such a great place. There’s no judgment there. And they have a 99 percent literacy rate.”

Jehangir Mehta
Executive Chef, Graffiti and Mehtaphor

“Paris. Just to see Jean Francios Piege. I ate at his previous restaurant, which was in Hotel de Crillon, and it was one of those meals where it makes you stop and think about what food is all about. He has a new restaurant called Hotel Thoumieux.”

Tien Ho
Executive Chef, Ma Peche

“Definitely Tokyo. I love Japanese food. I would get recommendations from friends. I love sushi and would go to the fish market to eat there.”

Damien Hergott
Pastry Chef, Bosie Tea Room

“Taipei. There’s a great night market there and the best Japanese food outside of Japan. The best Chinese fusion. Plus, the food scene is really diverse.”

Ching-He Huang
Chef & TV Personality, UK Food Channel

“elBulli. If I could get one of the last seatings there before it closed. The last time I was in Spain, I ate at almost every important restaurant, but I didn’t get to eat at elBulli.”

Dale Talde
Top Chef alum (season 4)
Creative Director, Buddakan