Spotlight on Nepal: The end of the line

Even Shakespeare would have been hard-pressed to imagine a royal tragedy of this scale: ten members of the Nepalese royal family killed, including the king and queen, at a dinner party over a petty argument. The killer was not an aspiring dictator or a slighted nobody-it was the crown prince. As horrific as this scene is to imagine, it is by no means particularly remarkable in a country with problems as big as its postcard mountains.

There was the bloody decade-long civil war, which ended in 2006; the reigning king’s rule by martial law the year before that; the thousands of Maoist rebels held at UN camps around the country; and let’s not forget the mass strikes that frequently bring the country to a halt (the most recent on Feb. 19th in Kathmandu, the capital).

But come this April-if everything goes right-Nepal may get a do-over. That’s when the 260-year-old ruling monarchy is scheduled to be abolished and replaced by a government elected by the people. The national elections could solve many of the problems that strikes, rebellions, and attempted coups have not. At the same time, it marks the end of a historic institution and a king who many still believe to be a reincarnation of Vishnu, the Hindu god. This will no doubt be a watershed year.

King Gyanendra will be easing into private life or perhaps playing some figurehead role in the new government. He is an absolutely fascinating character, not the least because of his relentless hunger for power, which creates the perfect tension with his position as the last king of Nepal. What does a Nepalese king do exactly? How is he spending his last days? What are his plans? What makes him tick? This situation reminds me a lot of the last emperor of China, who, as the Japanese was closing in, spent his days aimlessly riding his bicycle in the empty Forbidden City .

Also of interest is the monarchy as a cultural institution, which is unique for being the only remaining Hindu governing system. There are some twenty royal palaces scattered throughout , many in the Kathmandu valley: Hanumandhoka, Bhaktapur, Patan. Each holds religious and cultural significance beyond that of a lavish playground for Gyanendra. The most significant is Narayanhity Durbar, the main residence of ‘s kings for more than 200 years and the site of the 2001 massacre.

This year may very well define Nepal’s political futureshed. Will the Maoists rebels help rebuild the country once Gyanendra cedes his power? Could ethnic rivalries actually worsen now that there is no consolidated power base? Or will Gyandendra derail the democratic process, as he has done several times before?

The sex industry is blooming in…Nepal

Well, there could be a stranger place than Kathmandu to operate a sex parlor…say, the Vatican. But clearly, it is only a matter of time. The search for spirituality and natural beauty is, apparently, paved with lap dances.

This week’s Economist has an article on the rise of sex tourism in Nepal. There are now an estimated 200 “massage parlors” and over 35 dance/strip bars, selling “sex” for as little as $28, which of course is not insignificant for them. Those women, however, might be better off than the 200,000+ Nepali women, who are trafficked into India for sex every year.

Some say Nepal is becoming the new Bangkok. Since the civil war ended only recently and marked the end of Nepal’s Himalayan tourism industry, sex tourism is ready to replace it. I especially like the part of the article where the Nepal Tourism Board suggests that tourists should “Have a drink at one of the local dance bars, where beautiful Nepali belles will dance circles around your pals.”

Now, all you need is a low-cost carrier to fly there direct. Makes me want to scream.

Mt. Everest pioneer dead at 88

On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first known climbers to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. Today, Hillary passed away in his home country of New Zealand at the age of 88.

Though his Everest feat was incredibly impressive, Hillary always thought of himself as just a regular beekeeper. The CBC’s article includes a quote from Hillary describing his feelings about the Everest climb:

“Awe, wonder, humility, pride, exaltation – these surely ought to be the confused emotions of the first men to stand on the highest peak on Earth, after so many others had failed… But my dominant reactions were relief and surprise. Relief because the long grind was over and the unattainable had been attained. And surprise, because it had happened to me, old Ed Hillary, the beekeeper, once the star pupil of the Tuakau District School, but no great shakes at Auckland Grammar [high school] and a no-hoper at university, first to the top of Everest. I just didn’t believe it.”

New Zealand’s Prime Minister Helen Clark recognized Hillary’s humility in a statement released today: “Sir Ed described himself as an average New Zealander with modest abilities. In reality, he was a colossus. He was an heroic figure who not only ‘knocked off’ Everest but lived a life of determination, humility, and generosity.”

By all accounts, Hillary led an impressive life notwithstanding his Everest accomplishment. He was an outspoken conservationist and dedicated his life to the Sherpas of Nepal, donating money to help them build roads, hospitals, and schools.

More coverage here.

Photo of the Day (12/28/07)


Ah, yes. The milky blue waters of a high altitude, Himalayan lake.

These aren’t the type of waters that make you want to take off your clothes and jump in for a quick dip. No, these waters run deep and cold and warm shelter is a far distance away. This is simply a breathtakingly perfect place to stop for lunch while trekking to other, equally as mind-blowing vistas.

Wow. A big thanks goes out to Pixelskew for reminding me of the glories of Nepal with this great shot.

If you’d like one of your gems considered for Photo of the Day, be sure to pay a visit to our Gadling Flickr Pool and upload your finest.

Don’t tip the locals, build them a library instead

Literacy is a gift that keeps on giving–unless, of course, there are no books to read.

This is a tragic situation for those with limited means to travel, because books are often the only window they have to the outside world.

Sadly, public libraries can be a very scarce resource where they are needed most–in developing countries. But they don’t have to be. Providing one for a local community is surprisingly affordable and a great way to give back to the wonderful people who made your travels through this part of the world so enjoyable.

Room to Read is a nonprofit organization which has established 3,600 libraries in the developing world since 2001. Naturally, they are looking for travelers like you to help out–travelers, for example, who have spent time chatting with the small children of a mountain village in Nepal and know the joy that even a few books will bring to their lives.

But let’s not settle on just a few books. For just $3,000 a sponsor can fill an entire room full of books and convert it into a library in Nepal, or a handful of other countries the organization works with.

Naturally, smaller donations will help as well…. So pull on that Santa hat and start giving.