Warsaw: Groundbreaking for Jewish Museum

by Kelly Amabile on

Here’s another bit of news from Poland: Earlier this week a groundbreaking ceremony was held for a new museum to be built in Warsaw. The Museum of the History of Polish Jews will be a $65 million undertaking that should rise in central Warsaw by late 2009. It will sit next to a monument to the Jews who resisted the Nazis during the 1943 ghetto uprising, and down the street from the rails where many Jews were deported to death camps.

The hope is that this museum will become a cultural landmark to match Jerusalem’s Yad Vashem, Washington DC’s Holocaust Memorial Museum and Berlin’s Jewish Museum. At the groundbreaking, Poland’s President Lech Kaczynski told the crowd that the Museum is “a great chance to… break the lack of knowledge about one another” and forge “deeper reconciliation” between Jewish and non-Jewish Poles as they remember their common history. Here’s a video and a gallery that shows what it should look like when it’s done.

One for the Road: Roman Polanski – The Cinema of a Cultural Traveler

by Kelly Amabile on

A new book looks at the filmography of Roman Polanski in advance of what will surely be his biggest project yet. The controversial film director will soon begin work on a movie adaptation of the best-selling Robert Harris novel Pompeii. This new book about Polanski takes a close look at all previous films he directed: Roman Polanski: The Cinema of a Cultural Traveller examines the settings, genres and themes of his films, including Two Men and a Wardrobe, Cul de Sac, Rosemary’s Baby, The Pianist and Oliver Twist.

From the publisher, I.B. Tauris: Ewa Mazierska looks into the function of music, of religion, power, patriarchy and racism in the films, as well as Polanski’s literary adaptations and his use and subversion of film genres. Herself a Polish émigré, she uncovers Polanski’s Polish roots and the extent of their influence on the cinema of this mercurial film maker, at large in the world.

Mazierska is co-author of From Moscow to Madrid: European Cities and Postmodern Cinema and Crossing New Europe: The European Road Movie.

Krakow the New Prague?

by Neil Woodburn on

Back in 1991 when I first toured Poland, the city of Krakow was the only town I visited with charm that outlasted communism.

It wasn’t as charming, however, as Prague, its neighbor further south. As a result, expats looking for a cheap, bohemian lifestyle flocked to the Czech Republic and left Krakow to slowly plod on.

Fast forward to 2007 and according to an article in the New York Times, Krakow is the new Prague.

Restless souls have been looking for the new Prague since Prague itself was overrun with tourists and expats alike. Krakow just might be it. The city is now bursting with hip bars, stylish locals, tons of students, artsy neighborhoods, cool galleries, and, the most important ingredient to any bohemian lifestyle: cheap food and drink.

The bad news? British stag parties and cheap flights from London might turn your bohemian getaway into an angst ridden, disappointed-in-mankind nightmare of vomitous hell.

Famous Tourist Site Frauds: Where “Original” and “Authentic” are Blatant Lies

by Neil Woodburn on

There is nothing more powerful than standing in a spot where some famous historical event occurred, surrounded by exactly the same objects as were there hundreds of years ago.

Tourism’s greatest fraud, however, is that so many historical places have been so thoroughly renovated or rebuilt that one really wonders what is real anymore.

I first ran across this in Warsaw. Wandering through the UNESCO Old Town, I was hit with an odd feeling of disconnect. The buildings all appeared very old and beautiful, but wasn’t Warsaw flatten during the war? The reality is that Warsaw’s entire Old Town was completely rebuilt like some type of Disneyland. Sure, they did an outstanding job, and replicated it almost perfectly based on photos taken prior to World War II, but that sense of history just isn’t there. In fact, one could argue that the entire Old Town is a bit of a fraud.

With the recent fire on board the historic Cutty Sark, journalist Nick Trend began to wonder what exactly it was going to be like when it was rebuilt and that sense of standing in the middle of history becomes lost amongst 21st renovations (much like the HMS Victory, he points out–a historical boat in which only 17 percent of the original wood remains).

As with the Warsaw example, the Cutty Sark is not the only famous tourist site claiming to be the real thing. Trend has put together a rather eye-opening list which sadly undermines a handful of sites I’ve visited in the past under the assumption that I was gazing upon the real deal–not some recently painted or renovated replica.

The most striking example was the Parthenon in Athens which actually blew up in 1687 and has been completely rebuilt. Had I known this at the time when I visited, it would have gnawed away at the back of my mind and detracted from my experience.

So, under the premise that ignorance is bliss, I would recommend that you do not click on over to Trend’s article detailing Ten famous buildings and artworks that are not quite what they seem. If, on the other hand, you are a seeker of truth, check it out and be prepared to be slightly saddened.

Holy Week in Poland – Part 2: Krakow

by Kelly Amabile on

The respect and love felt for “hometown hero” Pope John Paul II is evident throughout Krakow. The 1st anniversary of his death fell during the Easter season in 2006, inspiring an additional layer of reverence and special tributes throughout the city. Despite threatening clouds and intermittent rain, an outdoor photo montage of his life was displayed along the planty that circles Old Town. Inside St. Francis Basilica church (where he served as archbishop before becoming Pope) there were additional memorials in his honor and a chance to kneel in the pew where he used to pray. (The church is worth a visit to see Stanislaw Wyspianski’s famous stained-glass windows.)

A friend and I fell under the trance of the somber mood that seemed to hang over the city. In between rain showers, we climbed up Wawel Hill, walked along the banks of the Vistula and strolled through Cloth Hall examining the plethora of chess sets and amber offerings; but the lousy weather kept us seeking cover most of the week, which turned into a tour of Krakow churches. We attended services a few times, continually stunned at the huge turnouts, the long kneeling sessions and the great lengths to which some worshipers would go to make sure they had a seat — on several occasions we stood near folks sitting on their own small folding chairs!

A popular Holy Saturday tradition in Poland is to bless the Easter baskets, filled with the food that will be eaten on Sunday morning. The baskets themselves are often used as decoration for a centerpiece during brunch. As my friend and I explored damp and dreary Krakow in the days leading up to Easter, we decided that we would prep a basket to be blessed as well. We bought one and filled it with bread, flowers and a traditional poppy seed cake called makowiec. Other items usually included are salt, hard-boiled eggs, sausage and cheese, but we were staying in a hostel with limited space in the communal fridge. Our improvised creation worked fine for Easter brunch, and later that day we treated ourselves to yummy Polish lody (ice cream) for dessert.

As we headed out to catch a train early Monday morning, we were on high alert — another tradition in Poland is for young boys to to wake girls on Easter Monday morning by pouring a bucket of water on their head. Thankfully the only water to dampen our morning was the rain that continued to fall from above. We were pleased that we had been able to participate in several of Poland’s Easter traditions, but were quite happy to escape without being subjected to Wet Monday mischief.