Red Corner: Belgrade Looking Up

Although I never made it to Belgrade on my recent trip to the Balkans, I knew I would be missing out on one of the region’s great capitals.

Fortunately, LA Times staff writer Susan Spano journeyed there at about the same time and has painted a rather appealing image of this oft-neglected capital rarely blessed with superlatives from travel writers.

Spano delves deeply into history, politics, bars and cafes, and even attends a wedding in the Serbian capital. “Belgrade,” she claims, “is now as hot as Prague once was, only cheaper and less touristy.”

Sounds pretty good to me!

Red Corner: Polluted Albania

Having recently returned from a trip to Albania, I was disappointed to run across a rather frank assessment of the pollution problems which currently plague the developing nation and negatively effect its tourist trade.

Transitions Online, which covers problems faced by nations emerging from communism, reports that some of Albania’s most popular beaches are horribly contaminated and that “pollution in the coastal waters is between two and six times the levels allowed by the World Health Organization.” Even the guidebook I traveled with warned about rashes which afflict swimmers at some of the beaches.

The air isn’t much better. The Albanian Institute of Nuclear Physics discovered that Tirana’s air is laced with toxic metals from the regular burning of trash and solid waste.

It is certainly a sad report to read. I found Albania to be extraordinarily blessed with beautiful beaches and mountains when I visited. Such natural resources, if treated properly, will be the source of a tourist boom one day in the future which will bring with it much needed cash and employment.

In the meantime, rash-causing ocean swims, aren’t really helping the cause.

Red Corner: Checkpoint Charlie Museum

Museums are leisurely walks interrupted occasionally by exhibits that rivet you to a standstill; there is no other speed quite like it.

While such absorbing meandering is de rigueur in galleries worldwide, there is only one museum I’ve ever visited that is so utterly fascinating that riveting standstills occur every couple of inches.

The Checkpoint Charlie Museum in Berlin chronicles the many escapes made under, over or through the Berlin Wall. Each is painstakingly detailed with written narratives that read like spy novels, numerous photographs, and quite often, the actual tools used in the escape–such as the gondola from a homemade hot air balloon, improvised scuba gear, handmade Border Guard uniforms, and more.

The Tunnel Room details the numerous tunnels dug under the wall and is a true testament to the evils to which some men can sink and the courage and strength with which others respond.

Make sure to carve a large chunk of time out of your day for this museum when visiting Berlin; it took me most of the day to get through.

Red Corner: Retiring to Croatia

When the only Roman Emperor to ever retire decided to do so, he ordered a massive retirement home built in which to enjoy his golden years. Out of all the places to choose, Emperor Diocletian picked Croatia.

Today, the Dalmatian Riviera is once again attracting the attention of grey-haired seniors looking to settle down. The main difference, however, is that the current retirees are moving to Croatia not to build a grandiose palace, but to cash in on some very good real estate deals to be had.

Kathleen Peddicord, writing for MSN Money, has put together a wonderful little article summarizing the pros and cons of retiring to this ex-communist, former war zone that is quickly becoming the darling of Europe. Its 3,646 miles of coastline offer a host of affordable real estate while the country’s infrastructure provides some pretty decent tax breaks and other benefits. And, it’s amazingly beautiful!

Screw retirement! I’m buying a place now!

Red Corner: Vodka Hangover Cure

Anyone who has ever been to Russia is very familiar with the Slavic passion for drink. Indeed, it is almost impossible to get in and out of the country without some friendly Russian sharing this passion with their new found friend: you!

There is simply no avoiding it. “I don’t want to drink,” is met with peer pressure far more intense than that experienced at an American high school dance with a smuggled bottle of Jack Daniels.

“But,” you are told by your new Russian buddy, “We drink to friendship. Friendship!” Realizing only a complete ass would turn down such a heartfelt toast, you acquiesce. Immediately thereafter, the horizontal surface upon which you took your first shot becomes a dangerously slippery slope, at the bottom of which you find yourself vomitous and eventually, deathly hung over.

The usual suspect in this obligatory Russian demise is vodka. Strangely, this Slavic turpentine rarely seems to have much of an effect upon your new Russian friends; not only are they less drunk than you, but the following morning they have almost no hangover.

How to Drink Vodka and Stay Sober is a wonderful post I ran across on Russian Blog (thanks to a tip from carpetblogger in Azerbaijan). It should be required reading for anyone applying for a Russian visa.

The post walks you through the pre-drinking stage (eat raw eggs), the drinking stage (post-shot herrings and sardines) the morning after (pound some pickle brine) as well as a number of other strange, but apparently effective cures.

Cheers!