Red Corner: Biking Bulgaria

by Neil Woodburn on

Every city or country has a “can’t miss” attraction that you simply can’t miss. When I was traveling through Bulgaria a few years ago, the can’t miss attraction everyone told me to visit was the Rila Monastery.

While the monastery was indeed truly magnificent, Bulgaria’s Rila Mountains where the monastery is located are equally spectacular.

I unfortunately spent very little time in the mountains, merely driving through on the way to the monastery, but last August Gregory Dicum visited on a mountain biking adventure in which he rode right into the heart of this Balkan range. His Travel & Leisure article paints a very quixotic, old European view of ox carts, farmers, mountain dwellers, Sheep’s-milk yogurt, alpine blueberries, scenic lakes, mountain meadows, and beautiful vistas. It’s another off-the-beaten-path adventure that is flush with the wondrous rewards such journeys always seem to offer.

Red Corner: Albania and Montenegro Advice

by Neil Woodburn on

I’ll be leaving in a few weeks to tour through popular Croatia, less popular Montenegro, and virtually unvisited Albania. While I’ve come across many guidebooks and suggestions for Croatia, the other two countries are remote enough that very little travel literature exists for those who venture this far.

So, I am appealing to the masses. Has anyone out there been to Montenegro or Albania recently and do you have any recommendations for me?

The first clown who writes “don’t go” will be duly ignored.

Thanks!

Red Corner: Hoofing it in Kyrgyzstan

by Neil Woodburn on

One of the few remaining, great horse-riding nations left on this planet is Kyrgyzstan. This former Soviet Republic, nestled in the mountainous territories of Central Asia, is home to a slice of mankind still trotting about on their horses minding their herds. Most remain dressed in traditional garb that hasn’t changed in hundreds of years. The same could be said of their ancient yurt tents still widely in use today.

One of the greatest regrets I have of traveling in Kyrgyzstan was not stopping for a few days in one of these remote valleys populated by this anachronistic society and riding around with them.

It would have been difficult to do so, as I was merely passing through in a minivan at the time, but now a number of travel agencies specialize in just that. A recent article in The Independent follows the tracks of a small group of women who embarked on a ten-day horseback tour through the Tien Shan Mountains in northern Kyrgyzstan. I got the feeling that the tour wasn’t as immersed in authenticity as I imagined such a remote trip to be, but nonetheless, it appears a very cool journey indeed.

Red Corner: Dresden Drinking Emerges from the Ashes

by Neil Woodburn on

Getting bombed in Dresden is no longer what it use to be.

Okay, horrific lead, I agree, but I couldn’t resist dropping such an intro when writing about Dresden’s emerging party scene.

It seems that every week I come across an article praising the newest Eastern European hot spot for cafes and bars. This week, The New York Times draws attention to the (former East) German city of Dresden.

Journalist Evan Rail (another great travel name) tosses out a few token lines about the city’s cultural boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants, but then dives right into its rich pub culture. Apparently Neustadt (New Town) is the hip-happenin’ place these days. Located across the river from the part of town demolished in the closing days of World War II by a series of unnecessary carpet bombing raids, Neustadt’s streets are lined with more than 100 drinking establishments that are open until 3 a.m.

Just how wonderful has this city become for serious drinkers? Swing by the third weekend in June when the Bunte Republik Neustadt (Colorful Neustadt Republic) street fair kicks off. 800,000 of your best drinking buddies will be there as well, so bottoms up!

Oh, and spare a moment to cross the river and check out the real Dresden, slowly being rebuilt in all its glory and magnificence.

Red Corner: Slovakia’s Capital

by Neil Woodburn on

Trivia question: From what Eastern European city did Steve Martin and Dan Ackroyd’s “Two wild and crazy guys,” originate from? “We are from Brat-is-lava,” was what Jorge and Yortuk Festrunk so often chimed in their silly faux-Slavic accent.

At the time of the old Saturday Night Live broadcasts, Bratislava was just another city in Czechoslovakia. When the country spilt into two parts in 1993, however, it became the capital of Slovakia.

Bratislava has always played second fiddle to the more popular and beautiful Prague further north, but that’s not to say the Festrunk brothers would be disappointed if they were to return today. Indeed, The New York Times paints a rather pretty picture of this oft-neglected capital and its “giddy Baroque palaces in shades of marigold and lavender.” Writer Andrew Ferren writes fondly of its architecture before moving on to describe what the buildings contain; boutique shops, crystal, art galleries, cafes and pubs.

Ferren is not the first to speak about Bratislava’s pubs. Much has been written about the cheap alcohol served and the magnetic quality this has upon bachelor parties from England who regularly invade this small capital. It’s sadly ironic, but on any weekend night, it looks like geeky westerners have traded places with the Festrunk brothers in their own home town.