Red Corner: Peter Hopkirk’s Central Asia comes Alive

by Neil Woodburn on

Until just recently, Central Asia had all but disappeared from the world’s consciousness. Swallowed up by the Soviet Union in the early part of the 20th century, places like Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan simply vanished anonymously from the world stage.

After gaining their independence towards the end of the century and struggling through a period of economic hardship, however, the ‘Stans of the former USSR are back in the spotlight thanks to oil deposits and large Muslim populations.

Back in the spotlight, you ask? When was a place like Kazakhstan ever in the spotlight?

Central Asia was actually a major center of conflict and interest in the 19th century as Russia and Britain fought over the region in a long running series of affairs known as the Great Game. While this conflict has mostly been forgotten by the modern world, one amazing author has struggled to keep it alive through a series of commanding books that are some of the finest historical reads you’ll ever come across. Author Peter Hopkirk has written a handful of novels dealing with the Great Game which are now, according to The Telegraph (UK), being re-released due to increased interest in the region.

Hopkirk’s finest work, appropriately titled The Great Game, is such an amazing read involving spies, espionage, and double-agents that it is almost impossible to accept the fact that everything mentioned is true. If you’re planning on traveling through the region, be sure to read it; Hopkirk referenced nearly ever place I visited in Uzbekistan. If you become a fan, and you will, you can move on to Foreign Devils on the Silk Road and Trespassers on the Roof of the World-two books whose alluring titles should whet your appetite for more.

Red Corner: Czech Restaurant Scene Improving

by Neil Woodburn on

Czech cuisine is practically an oxymoron. Two years of living in Prague taught me that the Czechs care more for the liquid portion of their meals than the solid part. In fact, the reality that something as basic as fried cheese proved to be my favorite Czech dish after two years really says a lot about food preparation in this country.

Times change, however. Over the course of the last decade a handful of restaurants have emerged on the Czech scene that are starting to give the local food a good name. This month’s Budget Travel reviews some of the better ones that are also nicely affordable.

I was amused to see a vegetarian restaurant listed amongst those spotlighted. In the mid-90s the only place serving fresh vegetarian food was a Hari Krishna restaurant which I found myself frequenting quite often. The Czechs, on the other hand, are a carnivorous lot and stayed mostly away.

Today, Budget Travel recommends a couple of French restaurants, some Asian food, a handful of Czech establishments, a burger place, and a beer pub. There is no mention of fried cheese anywhere in the article.

Red Corner: Illegal Lithuanian Jazz Festival Jams Away

by Neil Woodburn on

This last weekend, the Lithuanian town of Birštonas held its semi-annual jazz festival. The Birštonas Jazz Festival is perhaps the least known jazz festival on this planet. It takes place in a small town on the Nemunas River with a population of only 3800 people.

Why such a remote location for a jazz festival you ask? Well, in 1980 it was impossible to organize such an event under the communist government. So, jazz lovers put together the clandestine festival in a reclusive, wooded location where they could secretly play without the KGB crashing their party. The government goons came nonetheless and set dogs upon festival-goers. The concerts, however, persevered.

Now that communism is dead, the festival has taken on a far more international appeal, drawing musicians from throughout Europe. It remains a small and intimate affair, but one popular and legendary enough amongst Lithuanians to sell out six months in advance. With the next festival occurring March 2008, you should have plenty of time to buy your tickets.

Red Corner: Bulgarian Beaches

by Neil Woodburn on

Bulgaria is not exactly the first place that comes to mind when planning a summer beach vacation, but its location on the Black Sea offers miles of decent beaches to choose from. During communism Bulgaria was actually the top holiday destination for beach lovers in Eastern Europe. Of course, very few could travel to Spain or Greece at the time, so they really didn’t have much of a choice if they wanted sun and sand. Now that these ‘captive tourists’ have other options, many are still returning to their old Bulgarian seaside haunts and today are increasingly joined by Westerners just now discovering the charm and affordability of Bulgaria.

A recent article in The Times (UK) takes a quick peek at what the Black Sea has to offer for those venturing to Bulgaria for the first time. Recommendations are nicely tailored towards couples, families, culture seekers, spa monkeys, active souls, or partiers. While I have to admit that I was depressed by the soulless Soviet atmosphere I encountered when I visited Bulgaria’s beaches in 1991, The Times article paints an entirely different picture these days. Higher quality resorts have emerged and better restaurants and bars as well. It’s certainly not the coast of Spain, but a summer vacation on the Black Sea will still be rewarding, and far cheaper.

Red Corner: Gogol Bordello Sings Gypsy Punk

by Neil Woodburn on

Discovering local music while abroad is as much of a joy as discovering local foods. What’s really great about both of these pleasures, however, is that they can also be enjoyed back home.

Friday night I did just that. I went to see a group named Gogol Bordello who bills themselves as the world’s first gypsy punk band. Gypsy punk you ask?!?! Yes indeed.

Well, actually their web page describes them as a “fusion of Gypsy punk and Slavic stomp,” so that should make it clear, I guess. Imagine a fast-paced punk band whose power-chords and manic energy are driven by a frenetic violin and a bouncy accordion. Throw in a supporting cast of Eastern European musicians and a lead vocalist who looks like Frank Zappa with a handlebar moustache and you get a musical hodgepodge unlike anything that has ever existed before. The natural comparison would be a combination of the Gypsy Kings and the Clash but even this comes up horribly short. The musical hybrid is a synergistic explosion far greater than the sum of its parts.

The driving force behind this amazing band is lead vocalist Eugene Hutz. Originally from Ukraine, Hutz has a voice like he has just stuffed a couple of deviled eggs into his mouth after smoking cheap Bulgarian cigars all day. He sings mostly in thickly accented English that often makes it difficult to tell when he switches over to his native Ukrainian. But it is exactly this thick, guttural Slavic-ness that makes the music so powerful-oh, and the fact that Hutz is the most maniacal performer I’ve ever seen. He is a nonstop whirling dervish of limitless energy who prances, kicks, bends and contorts for three hours of nonstop mayhem. Unbelievable!

It’s not every day that Ukrainian gypsy punk rock lands on your doorstep. Since the band is currently touring, check out their website to see if they are invading a town near you. At the very least, download their Start Wearing Purple video from their label’s website. It may not inspire you to visit Ukraine, but it will prompt you to draw the blinds and lock up your children for the night; the crazy Slavs are coming and the musical world will never be the same.