Red Corner: Post-War Skiing in Sarajevo

by Neil Woodburn on

War has a way of tarnishing even the most spectacular of travel destinations. Sadly, long after a war is over, the very mention of the country in which it took place often leaves a bitter taste in one’s mouth, so bitter that the very thought of visiting it on vacation hardly enters one’s mind.

The city of Sarajevo is one such place. Site of the Winter Olympic Games in 1984, the city became embroiled in civil war from 1992–1995. Sadly, ski areas such as Jahorina served as staging areas for Bosnian Serbs lobbing artillery into Sarejevo and took on far more sinister roles than should ever be associated with bunny slopes and powder.

Today, such resorts are trying to reclaim their former innocence and glory. A recent article by Mirna Skrbic hints that they are on their way. This current season has seen the highest number of skiers hitting the slopes since before the war. Attracted by fine skiing and great deals (one-day lift tickets for $18), tourists are slowly starting to rediscover the fine conditions made so famous by the Olympic Games. The concept of ethnic skiing-where the Serbs and Croats ski at separate resorts-is also starting to fade, albeit slowly.

It’s an encouraging sign that those who fought against each other in a horrific war, are now starting to ski together. Skrbic offers some interesting political insights regarding this as Bosnia, and consequently its ski resorts, comes to terms with itself and its people.

Red Corner: Rich Russians Skiing in France

by Neil Woodburn on

There was once a time when Russians were some of the poorest mopes on this planet. Now, thanks to an oil-fueled economy, an upper class of uber-rich has emerged and in January they come to France to ski.

Courchevel is a high-end ski resort in the French Alps. But for two weeks every year, it becomes a Little Moscow as 20,000 Russians make it their temporary winter home. And man do they have money.

How much do they have and what are they doing with it while in France? Carole Cadwalladr from The Observer traveled incognito to gatecrash parties and find out herself. What she discovered was a world difficult to penetrate, but one dripping in lavish wealth, €10,000 bottles of Rémy Martin, armored Humvees, Mitchell Brothers Suits and prostitutes flown over in First Class.

Holy Moly! Years of Western propaganda thumbing our noses at Moscow bread lines is finally come back to bite us on the ass.

Red Corner: Anti-Tourism in Russia

by Neil Woodburn on

From the same author who brought us the term anti-tourism (discussed in yesterday’s post) comes an article in which the writer puts his words into action. The Bizarre Guide to Russia, by Daniel Kalder, is a 3,000 word essay summing up, as the title suggests, some of the more oddball places in Russia so far off the beaten track you’ll need a GPS to find your way back to civilization and normalcy. And, a couple of shots to calm your nerves. And perhaps even some psychiatric counseling.

With plenty of wit and an overzealous dosage of dark humor, Kalder guides us through Russia’s gangster cemeteries, a pickled baby museum, religious cults, mass graves, animal sacrifices, prisons and more.

Carnival Cruise lines it ain’t.

Red Corner: Hip Berlin

by Neil Woodburn on

Berlin is not only the most historically fascinating city of the 20th century, but it is also one of the hippest of the 21st century.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall, many young Germans moved to the eastern half of the city to take advantage of cheap rent and plenty of rundown buildings in which to squat. The amazing nightlife and art scene which erupted in the wake of this migration was grungy and fascinating. Although some of it has become refined and even upscale over the course of time, there is simply no ignoring the cult status of Berlin’s hipness.

New York Time’s journalist Guy Trebay journeyed to the German capital recently to check it out himself. His insightful article navigates through the city’s specialty bookstores, art galleries, vintage furniture shops, restaurants, and fashion centers. He spends a pleasant afternoon in the happenin’ Café Einstein, and an unforgettable night at club Week End. In short, he indulged in every manner of western excess the communist government hated ever so much. Isn’t democracy just grand!

Red Corner: Last Dictatorship in Europe

by Neil Woodburn on

Another fraudulent election has ensured that Europe’s last dictatorship remains a dictatorship.

The country of Belarus is the last European regime left over from the Cold War that is still ruled by an iron-fisted despot. Thanks to this weekend’s election-a farcical throwback to Soviet era elections-President Alexander Lukashenko won an overwhelming reelection bid with 82.6 percent of the vote despite a populous discontent against him.

While this does not bode well for the peoples of Belarus, it will (sadly) continue to provide travelers with a rare glimpse into the totalitarian Soviet past. Visiting Belarus is much like visiting the old Soviet Union; there is still censorship, an active KGB, and riot police who cracked heads when Lukashenko’s opposition protested the election results.

Stay tuned, however. If you missed out on the government-toppling, anti-communist demonstrations which swept through Eastern Europe in 1989, keep your eye on Belarus-you may just have the opportunity to relive history.