Red Corner: Eatin’ Dog

Kobe beef is usually the most expensive meat you can buy in an upscale market; in Uzbekistan, it’s dog meat.

Dog came to fashion in Uzbekistan thanks, in part, to Joseph Stalin. During his rule, Stalin exiled ethnic Koreans from Russia’s Far East to Central Asia where they introduced their fondness of dog into the land of shish kabob. Uzbeks themselves eventually came to embrace this new cuisine due to a widely held belief that dog meat was not only nutritional in value, but a medicinal panacea as well.

Uzbeks and Uzbek-Koreans alike are therefore willing to pay big bucks (or som in this case) to get their hands on this highly prized, canine cure-all. This is especially true today due to an outbreak of tuberculosis. Sadly, many who come down with this deadly disease are opting for shurpa (dog stew) in lieu of medical treatment. In the meantime, a rash of dog thefts is occurring amongst those who actually keep such potentially lucrative animals as pets.

Dog consumption isn’t only limited to the sick and contagious; it is still considered a delicacy and can be found on menus in some of the “better” Tashkent restaurants. I used to think that the cheap street food I ate in Uzbekistan was indeed dog meat, but that would be like serving Kobe beef in a Tijuana taco stand. I guess I was wrong.

Red Corner: The Ho Chi Minh Trail on Motorbike

I’m not too big on motorcycles but was rather enthralled with an article I ran across on Bloomberg.com in which columnist Mark Gilbert jumped on a bike and toured the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Vietnam.

Gilbert writes about a friendly motorcycle gang in the town of Da Lat called the Easy Riders who have become the hottest way to travel through Vietnam. For $50-60 a day they drop you on the back of a Honda motorcycle and roar off to locations you’d never reach on your own or with a tour group. I spent time in Vietnam 10 years ago and longed for such an opportunity, but the tourist infrastructure didn’t exist at the time and I had to settle for public transport instead.

Vietnam is still a very backward country and Gilbert convinces us that the best way to navigate its poor roads and eek the very best out of a Vietnam vacation is on the back of a motorbike. His journey took him past remote hill tribes, silkworm farmers and fishermen hauling in the day’s electrocuted catch with the aid of a car battery strapped on their backs. Vietnam remains a very strange place indeed.

Red Corner: Undiscovered Lvov

Journalist Mat Schulz uses a very interesting strategy to figure out where to go on vacation. He types in “Stag Party” and the name of a certain town to see how many Google hits it gets. Too many is not a good thing and he heads elsewhere.

The point of this exercise was to illustrate just how “undiscovered” the Ukrainian city of Lvov is since it received no hits. Schulz then proceeds to spin the quintessential “go here before it is discovered and ruined by other tourists” yarn. And, he does it so perfectly and so eloquently, it leaves me itching to get myself there as soon as possible.

He starts off with the simple comparison that Lvov is a “much cheaper version of Vienna.” Wow. Great hook. He then tells us the city is awash with great architecture, cheap food and accommodations, plenty of museums, few tourists, an abundance of bars and cafes, no McDonald’s and an Old Town that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. And, it’s easy to get to from London – just a simple Ryanair flight to the Polish city of Rzeszow and then a two hour train ride across the Ukrainian border. But that’s not all. Ukraine just dropped Soviet era visa requirements for most western nations so crossing the border is now a snap as visas can be purchased on the spot.

So I’m sold. I’ve been to Ukraine before, but not Lvov. It is now on my list. Just don’t show up with a stag party before I get the chance to visit.

Red Corner: Baltic Summer

Summer is still a little ways off but not so far that you can’t start thinking about where to go. And if Europe is on your mind, but the crowds that plague the Mediterranean make you cringe, then consider vacationing a bit further north in the Baltics.

The weather is a tad cooler, and the water is not as clear, but otherwise the miles of coastline meandering through Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia offer wonderful summer possibilities. I spent a couple of June weeks in the coastal resort town of Jurmala, Latvia a few summers ago and found it to be relaxing, quaint and quite beautiful. Not only is it much cheaper than Greece or the coast of Spain, but Boris Yeltsin has a summer house there and if you’re really lucky, he might invite you over to play some tennis if he’s not dead yet.

And if you think the Baltic coast is full of old USSR sanatoriums and Intourist hotels, spare a moment to check out this wonderful old Art Nouveau hotel in the seaside town of Pärnu.

Red Corner: Carpathian Skiing

We’ve posted a few times about the great ski deals to be had behind the former Iron Curtain. Today’s post continues with this theme by covering a brand new resort in the Carpathian Mountains that you’ve undoubtedly never heard of.

The Carpathians pass through scenic Ukraine and get plenty of the white stuff throughout winter. A handful of Soviet era resorts have operated in the region for a number of years. The most popular, Dragobrat, was recently upgraded with European equipment and at only 40 cents per lift remains a great deal.

Investors, however, realized that the Carpathians had potential for so much more. As a result, they raised $125 million to begin building a brand new resort in the area. Bukovel, as it is now called, plans to eventually expand to two dozen lifts and 75 miles of trails and by 2010, be larger than Vail and Whistler. It is currently operating with 6 lifts, however, and is still a great deal at just 19 euros for a day pass (although it is not the easiest place to get to). Check out the site for some impressive photos of what to expect. If you really want to shed some tears, click on their live webcams to see tons of snow and almost no people in sight.

Bukovel may not be a household name right now, but if plans go accordingly, it will be soon. So pack your skies and get a jump on the resort before everyone else learns about it.