Red Corner: Pipelines and Earthquakes = Bad News for Lake Baikal

Bad news for my favorite lake.

The Russian government has approved a measure to build an oil pipeline within 800 meters of Lake Baikal in Siberia. 800 meters may seem a fair distance, but not when you consider two things: Lake Baikal is one of the cleanest lakes in the world and it is located in earthquake country. Hmm… is it just me, or do you also see a recipe for disaster here? Even the company in charge of the project admits that a damaged pipeline could dump 40,000 tons of oil into the world’s largest freshwater lake. This would be an environmental catastrophe that would spell doom for the thousands of endemic species that inhabit the lake.

Various environmental groups are challenging the measure but will probably have little impact on the government decision makers responsible for the pipeline. This is Russia, after all-though it’s starting to look a lot like the current Bush administration if you ask me.

Red Corner: Russian Salmon Fishing

Finding that perfect fishing hole is every angler’s dream. Sometimes it is hidden in the woods near grandma’s house, other times it’s just outside Russia’s largest nuclear submarine port.

Russia’s Ponoi River, 130 miles east of Murmansk, has become the hottest salmon fishing destination in the world these days. Greater numbers of fisherman still head off to Alaska and Norway but the place everyone wants to go is Ponoi. It’s just that it’s not that easy to get to.

15 years ago, it was impossible. During the Cold War, the Kola Peninsula was off limits even to most Russians. Today, most of its 40,000 square miles of wilderness has been opened up, much to the delight of fisherman who salivate over the Ponoi’s annual salmon run of between 30,000 and 60,000 fish.

The lucky few who are able to dip their lures into the river’s running waters, fly in via Russian MI-8 military helicopter to the remote Ryabaga camp-a semi-luxury base camp operated by Shackleton International-and pay about $10,000 for the week-long privilege (this does not include airfare to Murmansk).

Red Corner: UN Chimes in about Chernobyl Tours

We’ve posted a couple of times about tour groups visiting the Dead Zone at Chernobyl and in doing so have commented about the sickness of those who profit off of other people’s misfortune and misery. Well, I was surprised to find a counterpoint to this argument that has been offered up by none other than the UN.

A 2002 report issued by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and the United Nations Children’s Fund (Unicef) concluded that ecotourism of the Chernobyl Zone would not only help to raise awareness about the problems plaguing the area, but would inject much needed currency into the region and help it to become more self-sufficient during its healing process-instead of relying so heavily upon quickly depleting foreign aid.

Knowing that such tours are UN sanctioned, however, really doesn’t make me want to go anymore than before.

Red Corner: Driving Across Siberia

Looking for the mother of all road trips? The opportunity to point your car east and continue driving for an incredible 6,200 miles before finally hitting the end of the road?

Well then, Siberia is calling your name.

With the completion last year of the Chita-Khabarovsk Highway, a road now stretches from Moscow all the way to Vladivostok on the Sea of Japan. Unfortunately, the Trans-Siberian Highway, as people are starting to call it, is not entirely paved yet and will require plenty of patience and skill to navigate. Adventurous motorists can expect to spend about a month making the journey. The Trans-Siberian railway, on the other hand, can get you across the same expanse in just five days.

Until Russia has its own AAA Automobile Club, I’m sticking to the train.

Red Corner: Baikal Winter Games

As if I didn’t provide enough reasons in yesterday’s post to visit Siberian Lake Baikal in the wintertime, here’s another: Winteriada.

Winteriada, the International Baikal Nordic Games Festival now in its fourth consecutive year, attracts 3,000 athletes to the frozen shores of Lake Baikal to compete in over 30 sports. This year it kicked off on Thursday, February 23rd with a soccer and volleyball tournament. Keep in mind that daytime temperatures average about 20 degrees Fahrenheit and games are played outside on the snow, or atop the ice-covered lake.

Athletes compete in such traditional winter events as skiing, dog sledding, ice fishing, ice climbing, ice skating, and a 4-wheel drive race. Not-so-traditional events for the middle of the Siberian winter include golfing, lake swimming, diving, ice-cart racing, and mountain biking atop the frozen lake. Apparently, there is no lick-the-flag-pole competition this year.

Perhaps the most unexpected event is a full length marathon, also on top of the ice. Last year’s leader, renowned German runner Udo Meller, lost his way and was eventually chased down and eaten by wolves. Well, not exactly eaten, but he did wander far enough off course to lose the race to local Irkutsk scientist Arkadi Kalikhman, a 57 year-old doctor of Physics and Mathematics who completed the course in just under three hours and nine minutes. Having crossed the finish line with all ten toes, he is a double-winner in my book.