Season Premiere of No Reservations tonight

Tonight at 10:00 E/P, Anthony Bourdain‘s show No Reservations makes its season premiere, as he travels to Singapore and samples some of their unique culinary fare. From the show’s website:

“Singapore is a country devoted to food. Located in the midst of a gastronomical crossroads, Singaporeans have adapted Chinese, Indian, Malaysian, and Indonesian cuisines into plentiful, cheap, but exquisite foods that can be found everywhere you look.”

I’ll be flipping back and forth tonight between No Reservations and the LSU-Ohio State college football championship game, but I’ll be sure to check out the whole thing during one of its ubiquitous reruns. I’ve often cited the show as one of the few remaining reasons to own a television, and that has nothing to do with the fact that there’s probably an advertisement for it a couple inches away from this post. Honest.

For more from Bourdain, check out his blog here and a slideshow of his Singapore trip here.

Culture 101: You must have been Chinese–or when is the part where my hair gets cut?

There are moments when you are traveling that you realize getting what you want just isn’t happening. This can even happen when you are living in the culture you were born into. It can certainly happen when you’re navigating life in another culture. In both situations, there are four reasons I can think of that getting what you want is not in your immediate future.

  • A. You don’t really know what you want
  • B. You know what you want, but you don’t know the language to help you get it
  • C. You know how to get what you want, but the person who can give it to you isn’t paying attention or has no idea what you are saying
  • D. The person who can give you what you want won’t

When living overseas I find the reasons most often at work that cause me to not get what I want are B and C. In my experience, D mostly happens with the people with whom we live. We call those people family. In the case of A, counseling helps.

My tendency in the cases of A or B or C, particularly when traveling or living overseas, is to pretend that what I am getting–even if it’s not what I wanted, is what I want. Perhaps, when I ordered, I really did want the fish balls in my soup even though I’ve never been able to figure out what they are exactly.

While living in Asia, I often found myself making do with what came my way, as to not burst out in tears in the middle of strangers, and to hold onto my “Isn’t life grand?” determination. Or should I say delusion?.

When I told a Singaporean friend about my experience of not getting a haircut one day because I didn’t want to embarrass the hairdresser or myself, she laughed and said I must have been Chinese in a past life. Chinese people will generally go to great lengths to make sure no one is embarrassed, particularly due to a misunderstanding. Sometimes it’s when you don’t know all the information. Unless you ask very specific direct questions, you may find yourself receiving minimal, sketchy answers.

For example, if you happen to be walking towards the edge of a cliff, but don’t know it, you more than likely will not be told. If you notice people looking at you a bit nervously, ask, “Excuse me? Is there a cliff here?” The answer will be “Yes.” You need to follow this with. “If I keep going in this direction, will I fall off the cliff?” You will be told, “Yes.”

However, if you don’t ask these questions, you will not be told what would be helpful to know. People will feel sorry that you fell off the cliff, but won’t tell you that danger is a drop off away in case you might feel bad that you could be so stupid as to walk towards the edge of a cliff and fall off.

This may sound like an exaggeration. Okay, it is an exaggeration, but the idea behind it is true. We discussed the notion of saving face and helping to make sure that others save face with our Chinese friends in Taiwan and they laughed and agreed that this was so.

But, back to the Singapore haircut story. One day, feeling stressed out, thinking that I looked a bit shaggy at the edges, and knowing that getting a haircut is one way to relieve stress, I went to the hairdresser located in the apartment complex where we lived after I told my husband I was going out to get a haircut.

“That’s nice dear,” he said.

The Singaporean style of haircuts in a hair salon is simply divine. The hairdresser gives a head and neck massage as part of the haircut experience.

This day, the one I’m talking about, the hairdresser put the apron around my neck and said, “Shampoo and blow dry?”

“Oh, yes,” I gushed.

She put the shampoo in my hair and began to give me that wonderful massage. I could feel my blood pressure drop. Ahha.

Then she rinsed my hair.

So far so good.

Then she picked up the hairdryer.

Wait. I thought. Maybe she’ll cut my hair after she blows it dry. I didn’t want to ask her if this was the case in case it wasn’t the case at all. Since I had said “Yes” when she asked, “Wash and a blow dry?” and I hadn’t added more desires, it would have felt rude to say, “Excuse, me, but where’s my haircut? It’s what I came for.”

I hoped that perhaps there would be a turn of fate with each sweep of the warm air across my head and tug of the brush.

Nope, she continued to aim the blow dryer at my hair, that was still shaggily the same length, and expertly brushed it until it gleamed and was completely dry.

“There!” she said, holding up the mirror to show me just how the crown of my head caught the reflection of the florescent lights.

“Nice!” I said, running my hands over my hair, happy that it did feel much softer at least and that some of my stress was gone. That was part of why I came to the hairdresser anyway, and I could always come back in a couple of weeks when I could tell her very clearly that I wanted a haircut and also that I wanted it washed and blown dry, please. I assumed that when going to a hair salon, the basic purpose was a hair cut and the wash and blow dry was the extras. Nope. It’s important to be very specific.

Not only did I not want her to feel bad that she didn’t give me what I wanted, I also didn’t want her to feel bad that I didn’t know how to ask the right question. As soon as she picked up that blow dryer, we’d gone too far. Better to have kept going and talk myself into feeling swell later.

My husband did say, “Your hair looks good,” when I went back upstairs.

“Thanks,” I said. “I didn’t get it cut. I’ll do that in a week or two.”

“I thought you went to get it cut.”

“Yep.”

Since he was living in Singapore as well, he understood–kind of. He didn’t use to be Chinese in a past life and would have said something.

If you’re in Singapore and want to get a haircut, one place I did have luck was Holland Village. I’m not sure if the place in the photo was where I went. Here’s a link to a list of hair salons and their descriptions. You can get walk-in haircuts, but for some hair salons, you need an appointment.

Action for AIDS: A Singaporean connection

One of the activities I enjoyed the most when I lived in Singapore was volunteering for Action for AIDS, the main AIDS organization there. It’s the only organization in Singapore that provides anonymous HIV testing. I wrote articles for their magazine and was a counselor who did intake interviews, signing up people up for an AIDS test if they wanted one–or just answering their questions.

One World AIDS Day, I helped pass out candles to those who came to participate in a candlelight vigil. Back then, there were about 250 people who gathered near Orchard Road for a service that paid tribute to those Singaporeans who had died of AIDS. As a person not from there, I did not feel like an outsider at all. Actually, this was the one place I felt I was engaged in the fabric of Singaporean life. One of my fondest memories was sitting at KFC after a meeting talking with other volunteers while sharing french fries.

Like many large cities, it is easy to live in Singapore and skim across the daily occurances. It is possible to go for weeks without talking to one person outside the realm of the people you have to talk with. This is not a place where people chat it up with strangers while riding on a bus. Observing is more of the norm.

With Action AIDS I belonged. Perhaps, it was because this group of people were also on the outside because of their activities. The Singaporean government had just begun to acknowledge that AIDS had something to do with Singapore, as well as the rest of Asia. In Changi Airport, billboards went up beseaching businessmen to remember their families when they were away. I heard more than a couple stories of women who became infected by a wayward spouse.

So, here it is. Another World’s AIDS Day is almost here. Instead of a candlelight vigil, this year Action for AIDS is sponsoring an AIDS Walk and a Flirt Party on December 2. There are other events listed on the calendar.

I came across this blog by Peter, an American who was living in Singapore at the time of his post. The Singaporean response to AIDS is something he is interested in.

Diwali–Festival of Light

This year Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Light is November 9. As with many celebrations that involve candles, it symbolizes the rescue from a dark period of time where evil has had control into a time of peace, goodness and well-being. Diwali,signifies when Lord Rama, his wife Sita and brother Laxman returned to Aydhoya from their 14 years of exile after Rama killed King Ravana, the demon. Ravana was one nasty fellow. After Ravana’s death, Lord Rama is crowned king and all is right with the world.

The story of Rama is a long one with many chapters and is the subject of much drama, story-telling, dance and art throughout the year. This segment is my favorite. In India, the different regions have different Diwali traditions.

I first learned of Diwali when we lived in Singapore. In Little India, during the days leading up to it, you could buy wonderful brightly colored decorations depicting Rama and Sita. But, my favorite items were the simple, shallow clay candle holders that held small tea light-sized neon candles.

People place these candles everywhere-on window sills, on tables, along walkways– to symbolize the light that comes after darkness. In India, Diwalli decorations are as plentiful as Christmas decorations are in the U.S.

For Hindus, this is a time for giving thanks for one’s wealth and prosperity no matter how poor one might be. This is a time of year when people exchange cards, sweets, clean their houses in preparation, wear their nicest clothes and go to temple to pray. The temples are decorated as well. Here are some pooja decoration ideas you can try at home.

There are other places in the world where you might come across Diwali celebrations. For example, in Kenya and Tanzania, 1% of the population is Hindu and live in closely knit communities. There are enough Hindus that Diwali is a national holiday. Other Diwali hotspots: Mauritius, Nepal, Malaysia, Indonesia, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Japan Thailand, South Africa, Britain, Australia,Trinidad & Tobago, Guyana, Surinam, Fiji.

We do have a few candle holders left. I gave some away as presents. I need to remember to get them out. The street scene photo is at the entrance of Little India off Serangoon Rd. in Singapore. It was posted on the Diwali entry on Wikipedia.

Singapore Airlines asks passengers to “please refrain from sex”

Jamie already covered the potential outcome of putting double beds on an airplane. But now Singapore airlines is directly addressing the situation as well.

The airline’s new Airbus A380 flies with two double beds in First Class, which are made private by a screen. But the airline is hoping to quash any funny-business ideas travelers might get when booking a lover’s package First Class bed. In a statement to Reuters, the airline said “All we ask of customers, wherever they are on our aircraft, is to observe standards that don’t cause offense to other customers and crew.” I’d say that statement is open to interpretation, wouldn’t you?

A passenger on the inaugral flight argued, “So they’ll sell you a double bed, and give you privacy and endless champagne and then say you can’t do what comes naturally?” Still, the rooms aren’t completely soundproof or sealed, so you’ve either got to have mad skills or enjoy the fact that you might get caught.
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