Winter in Alaska: fine dining, finer skiing at the Alyeska Resort & Hotel

In the spirit of journeying during periods less traveled, I’ve embarked to Alaska this winter. Follow the adventures here, and prepare to have your preconceived notions destroyed along the way.

You know you’ve considered it: “What if I went skiing this year… in Alaska? But then, the inevitable list of excuses rolls in: the flight’s further, it’s more expensive, none of my friends would come, I can’t reasonably drive it should I want to, etc. Pish posh. Utah may lay claim to The Greatest Snow on Earth, but Utah hasn’t met Alaska. Girdwood, Alaska — just 45 minutes outside of Anchorage — is home to Alyeska Ski Resort & Hotel, an increasingly luxurious stop for those who’ve grown tired of the challenges found in America’s Mountain Time Zone. What’s most staggering about Mount Alyeska isn’t the near-4,000 foot top elevation, but the 250 foot base elevation. Going from 250 feet to nearly 4,000 is truly a sight to behold — it’s not everyday that you find a ski resort with its base at sea level, you know? Read on to find out a little more about winter gem, and why should most definitely bring an appetite while visiting.

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An overview and peek inside of Hotel Alyeska, plus a ride up the scenic tram


Frankly, Alyeska has a lot of things going for it. For one, it’s located in Girdwood. It’s just a 45 minute haul to ANC, but it feel miles apart. It’s definitely got that “ski town” vibe, much like Whitefish, Montana. Forget about dodging the haughty and uppity here — Alaska wouldn’t be caught dead trying to be Park City. Girdwood’s also served by a Glacier Valley Transit shuttle, which is free to use for Alyeska guests. It’ll take you to a number of locally owned (and infinitely cute) eateries, with The Bake Shop, Chair 5 and Double Musky earning high marks from the locals. You’ll also be able to scoot down to the Tesoro station, home to Coast Pizza, a killer ice cream stop and the Tourist Trap Gift Shop; contrary to its title, the latter is also home to Glacier City Snowmobile Tours, which is a discussion deserving its own attention.

Secondly, there’s Mount Alyeska, which is surrounded by its colleagues in the Chugach mountain range. What else can you say? The scene is just gorgeous. There’s just something about being at sea level and looking up at a peak that’s three-quarters of a mile high that takes your breath away. Those postcards and screensavers you’ve seen of Alaska? Yeah, a good portion of ’em are right here. The mountain is in impeccable shape, and while the majority of runs cater towards advanced and expert skiers, there’s a sliver of novice courses as well. ‘Course, those who are really looking to get crazy can select from a myriad heliskiing operations in the area. The weekends are bolstered by night skiing, and with one of the longest ski seasons in North America, you won’t have to squeeze your ski trip into the months of January and February (unless you’re keen on it).

Then, there’s the hotel. If you’re coming to Mount Alyeska, you might as well stay at a ski-in / ski-out property, right? Aside from having an GVT shuttle run by the hotel every so often, you’re also able to pick up the Alyeska Tram or just walk right out and catch a lower lift from the rear of the hotel. During my stay here, I couldn’t have been more pleased with the layout. The recent renovations (2007) are immediately noticeable — the lodge and common areas are simply gorgeous, and you’ll find more food options that you’ll know what to do with. I was also a bit taken aback by just how kind the staff was — they aren’t charging 5-star prices here, but you’ll have no issues getting waited on should you need anything. The pool and spa area was also a real boon for weakened, weary bones after a day out on the slopes, and the rooms themselves were both modern and well-equipped. Free bottles of Alaska’s own Glacierblend water at night? Check. A Serta pillowtop mattress (one to die for)? Yep. Free in-room Internet? It’s there, as is free Wi-Fi in the commons areas. It’s hard to put a price on being able to walk right out of the hotel and into the snow, but for those who’ve dealt with de-gearing and making an hour-long trek back to a resort after skiing, you’ll probably have an easier time assessing a value.

Finally, there’s Seven Glaciers. Oh, Seven Glaciers. The whole experience of this place is second to none. First off, you have to grab a ride in the Alyeksa Tram to get to it. It’s a AAA Four Diamond, mountain-top restaurant, which means that you’ll be eating while looking out at the Chugach mountain range. Quite honestly, this along would warrant a visit even if the food were horrific, but I’m happy to report that it’s the polar opposite. Not only is the food beyond outstanding, but Chef Jason Porter does an immaculate job with the presentation. Service is top-notch, the wine list requires a book of its own to peruse, and if you’re terrified of food being “faniced up” just for the sake of charging you an arm and a leg, you’ll be happy to know that your fears are no good here. This really is Alaskan dining at its finest, and even southern legends like Paula Deen have dropped by for a bite. If you’re desperate for a recommendation, I’d say make a reservation (that entitles you to a gratis (and redicuously beautiful) ride on the tram) and grab the scallops or Wagyu beef.

You’ve probably heard mainlanders gripe about how Alaska’s “dark all winter,” but that actually couldn’t be further from the truth. I saw daylight from ~8am to ~6:15pm during my stay in late February, and couldn’t have been more thrilled with the weather. If you’re not into skiing or snowboarding (or you’re traveling with someone who fits that description), you’ll find plenty to do nearby: gold panning at Crow Creek Mine, bore tide viewing, dog sledding, snowshowing and hiking / biking. My suggestion? Push aside any hesitations you may have had about trekking to The Last Frontier in the winter — you’ll dodge the crowds, savor the snow and have everyone back in Utah teeming with envy. We kid, we kid… sort of.

[Images provided by Dana Jo Photography]

My trip was sponsored by Alaska Travel Industry Association, but I was free to report as I saw fit. The opinions expressed in this article are 100% my own.

5 great domestic adventure destinations

Back in early January we posted our suggestions for the best adventure travel destinations for 2011, with places like Ethiopia, Croatia, and Guyana all earning a nod. While we gave plenty of praise to those exotic locales, we also gave a big tip of the hat to the good ole’ U.S. of A. as well. We went on to espouse the virtues of adventure travel right here at home, which includes not only plenty of great destinations but also the ability to visit them without breaking the bank in the process.

So, whether you’re into climbing mountains, hiking trails, or paddling whitewater, here are five great domestic adventure destinations guaranteed to fill your need for an adrenaline rush and help you conquer that wanderlust in the process.

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula
It may be hard to believe, but the state of Michigan is actually home to a spectacular wilderness area that has a lot to offer the adventure traveler. The Upper Peninsula, or “U.P.” as it is known, is the perfect setting for outdoor enthusiasts year round. There are hundreds of miles of trails to be hiked or biked in the warmer months and during the winter they serve as excellent cross country skiing or dog sledding routes as well. Paddlers will enjoy the Lake Superior coastline, which offers an experience not unlike sea kayaking, while campers and backpackers will appreciate the dense, but beautiful, state and national forests that are found throughout the area. Wildlife is in abundance as well, with black bear, deer, wolves, coyotes, and many other creatures inhabiting the wilderness as well. Perhaps the best reason to visit the U.P. however is for the solitude. The peninsula makes up about 1/3 of the entire size of the state of Michigan, but only about 3% of the state’s total population actually lives there, which means there are plenty of wild spaces and few people to bump into on the trail.
Yosemite National Park, California
One of the most spectacular outdoor playgrounds in the entire world is located right in central California. Yosemite National Park is well known for its spectacular scenery that features towering granite cliffs, sparkling clear waterfalls and streams, and thick forests that include groves of Sequoia trees. The park has more than 750 miles of hiking trails alone and whitewater rafting along the Merced River is also a popular summer time activity. In the winter months skiing, both downhill and cross country, are permitted within the parks boundaries, and snowshoeing is a fantastic way to explore the wilderness as well. Yosemite also happens to be home to some of the best rock climbing in the world, with the legendary El Capitan drawing climbers from across the planet. That rock face isn’t for beginners however, and if you’d prefer an easier way to the top, you might want to consider hiking up Half Dome, another one of the parks major attractions, instead.

Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming
Often overshadowed by other national parks in the area, Wyoming’s Grand Tetons National Park is a spectacular destination in its own right. With more than 200 miles of hiking trails, it is an ideal destination for backpackers. But less experienced hikers beware, due to its combination of remote backcountry and altitude, it can be a challenging place to explore. The park also happens to be bisected by the Snake River, which provides world-class fly fishing opportunities and easy kayaking as well. Mountaineers love the remote nature of the Teton Mountains, which afford them real opportunities to test their alpine skills on any number of challenging peaks, including the 13,770-foot Grand Teton itself. The park has plenty to offer wildlife spotters too. While visiting, keep your eyes peeled for moose, grizzly bear, wolves, coyotes and much much more.

Maine’s North Woods
For considerably easier, but no less satisfying, mountains to climb, look no further than Maine’s North Woods. The region is a dramatic, and mostly untouched, wilderness that is a fantastic destination for hikers and backwoods campers, offering thick forests and plenty of low altitude (read 2000-3000 feet) peaks to bag. As you can imagine, wildlife is in abundance here as well, with moose and black bear making regular appearances, along with otter, deer, and even bobcats. Paddlers can choose to enjoy a serene day in a canoe on one of the many lakes that dot the area or elect to head over to Maine’s Atlantic Coast for a decidedly different, and more challenging, experience in a sea kayak. With over 3.5 million acres of forest spread out across northern Maine, there is plenty of backcountry to explore.

Taos, New Mexico
Located in New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Mountain region, Taos is one of those towns that sits at the epicenter of an outdoor enthusiasts’ paradise. In the winter, it is one of the best ski and snowboard destinations in the entire country, and the miles of local trails are fantastic to explore while snowshoeing as well. During the summer, those same trails make Taos a world-class mountain biking destination and rock climbers will love the variety of challenges they find in the nearby mountains too. The warmer weather also brings excellent whitewater rafting, as well as fantastic opportunities for horseback riding, hiking, and trail running through a pristine wilderness that never fails to surprise visitors with its beauty and wonder. The village of Taos is a great destination in its own right, enchanting travelers with its down home charm, and it serves as a prefect base camp for those who come to play in the backcountry.

There you have it. Five great domestic destinations to that will give you plenty to see and do no matter what time of the year you visit. It’s still plenty early in 2011 to start planning your own escape to one of these outdoor paradises.

[Photo credit: Attila Nagy and chensiyuan via WikiMedia]



Luxury travel: Three days of sun and ski in Lake Tahoe

There’s a multiple personality syndrome happening in Lake Tahoe. In the winter, the region is packed with snowboarders, skiiers and skaters ready to take on the chill and hit the slopes. In the summer, Lake Tahoe turns laidback with endless nights on the lake and festivals in the streets. The area is frequented by skiers, sun-worshipers, families, singles and solo-travelers. You can spend the night roasting marshmallows by an open fire or enjoying sushi at the local Japanese restaurant. Whether you come here to ski or sit in the sun, luxury travel in Lake Tahoe can be a traveler’s paradise.

Where to stay:

The Northstar -at-Tahoe Resort is one of Lake Tahoe’s newest “villages” and features everything from an ice skating rink to hot dog stands to sushi bars. The village at Northstar offers different accommodations, but to make the most of your stay choose a condo at Northstar and take advantage of the full kitchen, washer-dryer in unit and electric fireplace. The condos have balconies that overlook the village and because of its location on the mountain, you can walk from your condo to the gondola in less than 3 minutes, hitting up Starbucks along the way.

For the ultimate in luxury travel in Tahoe, head to the Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe – an oasis in the mountain. The resort is accessible via a private gondola from Northstar to the Ritz-Carlton, so you can easily shuttle between the village and the hotel, if you choose to do so. Or, you can hit the slopes straight from the Ritz. After a day of skiing or boarding, let the massage therapists at the Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe spa ease away your muscle aches. My suggestion: Opt for one of the spa packages that includes a bath soak. The copper tubs in the spa are meant to release stress on your muscles. After a day of snowshoeing at Tahoe, I can say with certainty this spa service saved me from the pain I was bound to wake up with the next morning.

%Gallery-117172%What to eat:

Northstar-at-Tahoe village has everything from French hotdogs and burritos-to-go to gourmet pizzas and wine bars. For sushi lovers, don’t miss a meal at Mikuni Japanese Restaurant & Bar. The restaurant offers typical Japanese food and the sushi bar is full of unique rolls and combinations.

If the pub scene is more your style, TC’s Pub in the village is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food is typical American bar style and the burgers are worth the wait from the kitchen on a busy day. Thanks to its location near the lifts, TC’s is also a great place to warm up after a day on the slopes or in between runs.

Don’t miss an opportunity to dine at Manzanita, Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe’s signature restaurant. (Suggestion: let the chef plan the course for you and ask the sommelier to pair your food with wine. You’ll never forget the meal.)

While it’s great to spend time in the village, it’s also worth it to get out and explore the Tahoe region. Head into town (only a 10 minute drive from the Northstar village) and check out the local shops and restaurants. Our favorite meal in town was at Pacific Crest Grill, the restaurant attached to the favorite local hangout, Bar of America.

What to do:

If you’re here in the winter, you’re hitting the slopes. If you’re here in the spring, you’re hitting the hiking trails. But aside from the obvious, there are few hidden treasures to check out.

For winter visitors, take a spin around the ice skating rink at Northstar. At night, the rink lights up with strands of bulbs and decorations, and fire pits surround the rink for watchers to roast marshmallows.

Dogsledding with Wilderness Adventures takes place at Squaw Valley, the next village over from Northstar. The dogs run a few times a day, but it’s advisable to book your reservations in advance as this popular activity books up fast.

If skiing or snowboarding isn’t your thing, rent some snowshoes and head out for a hike. My suggestion: go first thing in the morning when the trails are clear and you have the mountains to yourself. Because you have the flexibility to walk various trails and weave in and out of trees, you’ll come across some of the best views from the mountain that skiers and boarders won’t likely see. Word to the wise: snowshoeing is harder than you think! Even as a long-time runner, I was sore for days after a 3 mile snowshoe hike. My advice: stretch often and hit the spa after your hike for some good massage therapy!

On rainy days, or days when you just need a break from the mountain scene, hang out in the village and take the kids to some creative shops. The Northstar village has jewelry making and candle making shops, and stores just for kids who want to do their own shopping without mom and dad.

The Lake:

Let’s be honest, you might be here to ski, snowboard or skate, but you’re not going to miss a turn around the lake. The Lake Tahoe region is, in fact, situated around an expansive lake that provides some of the best scenes you’ll ever see out West.

The entire drive around Lake Tahoe can take up to three hours, but if you’re up for it you’ll enjoy the various twists and turns of the roads that lead to some of the peak spots for pictures. If you don’t have an entire three hours to spare, head toward the Lake and drive into South Lake Tahoe, just over the Nevada border and about a 45-minute drive from the Northstar village. The town area has a cute shopping center and boardwalk, and you’ll still get to see some picturesque Lake Tahoe views.

Side trip: Lake Tahoe is only a three hour drive from San Francisco. On your way back to San Francisco from Lake Tahoe, make a special stop at the Jelly Belly Factory, located off I-80 about halfway between the two destinations. The Jelly Belly Visitor Center is open daily from 9am-5pm. You can take a guided tour of the factory, or just head straight to the good stuff in the Jelly Belly retail store.

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Parts of this trip were sponsord by Northstar-at-Tahoe, but the opinions expressed in this post are mine.

New website promises travelers much better adventures

A new website calling itself Much Better Adventures launched recently with a unique approach to providing travelers with a new option for finding opportunities to explore adventure destinations across the globe. The site serves as a guide for travelers looking for first hand recommendations and ratings on local guide services and other businesses that also happen to use ethical practices in their approach to travel.

The website has compiled plenty of information to help you plan your next adventure travel experience, including options for how to get to your destination, whether it be by plane, train, or automobile. There is also helpful notes on how to travel in a more environmentally friendly way, which is especially nice for those concerned with limiting their carbon footprint on their journeys. Much Better Adventures also offers handy guides to destinations based on various activities, and their “Deals” section has money saving offers that everyone can appreciate. Visitors to the site are encouraged to join the growing community there and share their favorite local outfitters, inns, or guide services. The “Grapevine” portion of the site helps to spotlight new additions to the every growing database of user recommendations.

Active travelers will probably most enjoy the site’s option for searching the database to find the perfect adventure based on what it is you specifically want to do. You can select from such options as “Bike,” “Snow,” or “Rock+Ice,” amongst others. From there, you’ll be provided a few activity specific options, which then leads to the destinations best suited for the activity. Once you’ve decided on the activity you’re most interested in, you can then select the continent and country that you would like to explore in that manner. The country of choice is even broken down into sub-regions, which once selected will also provide the tour operators in that area that provide the adventure you’re looking for.

The site is still filling up with information, but there are already some great suggestions for travelers heading to nearly any part of the world. Perhaps you’ll find it to be a useful tool the next time you’re looking for a much better adventure of your own.


Outside Magazine posts their 2011 trips of the year

Adventure travelers still looking for suggestions on what to do, and where to go, this year may find some inspiration courtesy of Outside Magazine which has posted their selection for the 2011 Trips of the Year online.

Compiled by the Outside editors, the list, first appeared in the March print edition of the magazine which is on newsstands now. The recommendations will send travelers off on active adventures to far flung places ranging from Alaska, Nepal, Siberia, and beyond. The trips aren’t necessarily for the faint of heart however, as the suggestions include high altitude trekking, heli-skiing, mountain biking, white water rafting and much much more.

Each of the trip recommendations includes a short description of what travelers can expect, suggested dates to go, and a recommendation of a travel company to use when booking the journey yourself. Prices are also included, and be warned that some of them can induce a bit of sticker shock. But these trips are also unique excursions to remote places, which usually don’t come cheap. They also happen to be genuinely once in a life time opportunities for most of us, and will almost certainly leave a deep and lasting impression on those who take them.

As an active traveler who happens to enjoy a bit of adventure in my getaways, each of these trips appeals to me on a different level. But were I forced to choose one or two that stand out the most, I’d recommend the mountain biking journey through Argentina’s Patagonia or the expedition across Mongolia on horseback. Both offer a fantastic adventure through stunning landscapes unlike any other on Earth.