Winter Adventures in the Pyrenees

by Kraig Becker on

Spain is seldom considered a great destination for skiers, but this story from the Wall Street Journal, says that the Pyrenees Mountains, found in the northern part of that country, are amongst Europe’s hidden gems when it comes to winter outdoor adventure.

Far from the crowds that are the norm for the top ski destinations in Europe, the Pyrenees of Spain offer plenty of solitude and untouched snow, along remote trails that wind their way between rock towers and hidden valleys. The area is almost completely lacking in ski resorts as they are traditionally known, so those looking to ski Spain’s northern mountains will generally need a guide to help them find the safest and best cross country or downhill routes. These trails generally aren’t as long as those found in the more developed resort areas of the Pyrenees or Alps, but they make up for it with their unique setting.

The fact that the region hasn’t been over developed yet by ski resorts doesn’t mean that visitors will have be lacking in other amenities. Over the past ten years, Northern Spain has been a growing destination for tourists in general, and that has led to the construction of a number of inns and weekend apartment complexes, as well as given rise to mountain guide services. Restaurants and clubs have added to the nightlife as well.

The region is also rich in culture and history, making the entire experience very different from the more overly commercialized skiing destinations in other European countries. Head here when you want to escape the crowds and have a ski adventure unlike any other.

Celebrate the Francis Bacon centennial, starting in Madrid

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Reclusive, crazy and not as prolific as most other artists, Francis Bacon produced only around 1,000 paintings before his death. Around the world, his pieces appear one or two at a time, but few have the resources or reason to assemble a large retrospective. This year, that changes.

One hundred years ago, Francis Bacon was born. For his centennial, exhibitions are rumored to be planned at London’s Tate and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. But, I was surprised to see a large sign as I walked along the Paseo del Prado last week: Francis Bacon. Until April 19, 2009, you’ll be able to witness the progression of this genius’s work over four decades, with a collection of unusual breadth and depth (take a closer look here).

This is an interesting time for Francis Bacon. Last year, his work was among the hottest in the world, with Russian energy figure Roman Abramovich dropping $86.3 million on a triptych painted in 1976. Not even a full year later, the art market is in turmoil, and the auction houses are unable to move Bacon’s work, it seems, at any price. It feels like a sad undercurrent to what should be a year of celebration, but New York artist Nelson Diaz disagrees.
Diaz appears to be downright prophetic, having protested the art market’s ascent with a political statement via eBay last summer. At the time, he explained that Bacon would have been disgusted with the high prices that his work fetched. Nelson’s protest is over, but it does make rich background for what should be a year of Francis Bacon retrospectives around the world.

In the video below, Nelson explains last summer’s project and its connection to Francis Bacon. If you’re looking to the future, his latest project is “The Isolated Christ.”

Whether you stop by the Tate, Met or Museo del Prado to enjoy the Francis Bacon centennial, keep this back-story in mind. It changes everything you’ll see.

%Gallery-45570%

Oscar nominees for best movies that capture place: Six nominees

by Jamie Rhein on

Each year I see all the movies nominated for Oscars in all the major categories–plus more. As I watch movies, where they are filmed and how the place influences the story interests me. Perhaps this is because when one travels, the places one travels influences the experience.

There’s not an Oscar for movies that best capture a sense of place, but if there were, here are my suggestions for movies that came out this year. As you read the list, think of movies that have struck you. My list is from this year’s movies, but any movie and any year counts.

Best movie for capturing the sensuality and sexiness of place:

Vicky Cristina Barcelona.

This whole movie made me drool over Barcelona, Spain and the city of Oviedo, another location. The architecture, art, the fountains, the glasses of wine, statuary and little courtyards–divine. Plus, it was sunny! As a bonus, that delicious feeling of being young women off on a European adventure was perfectly captured. Who wouldn’t want to have a romp with Javier Bardem?

Best movie for capturing a place that is past its prime:

The Wrestler

With the economy’s downturn has come the closing or downsizing of beloved attractions. The scene in the abandoned carousel room at a no longer in use boardwalk in New Jersey where Mickey Rourke’s character danced with his daughter encapsulated that longing for simpler times and childhood memories gone-by

Best movie for capturing the intricacies of cultural interactions and neighborhood change:

Gran Turino

I was so disappointed this movie wasn’t nominated. The scenes between Eastwood and the Hmong immigrant family from Cambodia were superb. Also important were the shots of the neighborhood in Highland Park, Michigan. My favorites were when they kept plying him with food, something he eventually relished. What a wonderful tribute to the idea that culture is mostly about what makes your heart sing.

Best movie for capturing a place of color and vibrancy:

Slumdog Millionaire

As much as I wasn’t all that enamored with Slumdog Millionaire as a package, the vibrancy, sounds and colors of parts of Mumbai drew me in. Plus, what a feat to capture the footage in the sprawl of Dharavi, the “slum” community there.

Best movie for capturing how place influences how people live:

Frozen River

As I watched Michelle Leo steer the car across the ice of the St. Lawrence River next to the St. Regis Mohawk Reservation in Upstate New York, I thought about how where people live can affect outcomes. The storyline and place was a perfect match. I can still hear the sound of the ice crunching.

Best movie for capturing place that has been a heartbeat of change:

Milk

San Francisco’s role in the movement of gay rights was an integral part of this film. Along with depicting the important people like Harvey Milk and Cleve Jones (who started the Names Project, the AIDS Quilt), this was a terrific look at how the city has played an important role in U.S. history.

Best movie for capturing the sense of self discovery that travel brings:

The Curious Case of Benjamin Buttons

All the footage of Benjamin Buttons traveling as a young man, particularly in Nepal, brought back memories of how travel is an integral part of developing a sense of self. Anyone who has washed out clothes and hung them on a piece of string in a country that is not your own, knows what this feels like.

Beer babe’s favorite European bars

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Katarina Van Derham, the 2009 St. Pauli Girl spokesmodel, doesn’t like to spend all her time in one place. The Slovakia native now lives in Los Angeles and still loves to get out on the road as much as possible. When she’s home, her favorite place to grab a pint is Barney’s Beanery in Santa Monica. She can have a relaxing drink on the patio, which is a prime people-watching spot. Of course, she has favorites on the other side of the Atlantic, as well.

The 2009 St. Pauli Girl spokesmodel‘s European Favorites are:

Morrison Pub (Cannes, France): there’s always live music and a welcoming crowd; Cannes’ “beautiful beaches and relaxed vibe” help

Phanas Pub (Rijeka, Croatia): Phanas is a great party place with rock music piped in; Katarina came here while shooting a music video for a Slovakian band

Mermaid Bar (Ibiza, Spain): this bar caters to an international crowd, has clear water and a great club scene

U Medvédku (Prague, Czech Republic): a house beer and authentic Czech food are served, and you’re only footsteps from the city’s stunning architecture

CK Browar (Krakow, Poland): grab a beer at this bright brewery before shopping at the outdoor street fairs on Saturdays

Salm Bräu (Vienna, Austria): located in a charming old building, this bar is a great stop en route to Slovakia (since Vienna has the nearest international airport)

%Gallery-44714%

Hotel Gaudi a comfortable bargain

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Centrally located on Gran Via, Hotel Catalonia Gaudi offers inexpensive comfort and convenience in Madrid. Long a favorite of business travelers, tourists will also enjoy its spacious rooms, large private balconies and proximity to local attractions.

The rooms are large enough for two people to have plenty of elbow room. Request one with a view if you want some outdoor space. The walls on the balconies do obscure most shots of the city, but you will be able to sit outside and enjoy a combination of fresh air and the rhythms of the city. Also, since I’m not a fan of heights, the tradeoff (lack of view for lack of anxiety) was worth it.

Back inside the guestroom, the bathroom is enormous by European standards, and it sports a good-sized bathtub. But, if you expect a shower curtain or full glass door, you’ll be disappointed. The European style is prevalent at Hotel Catalonia Gaudi, with a piece of plexiglass reaching only a quarter of the way across the side of the tub (except in some rooms, which have shower curtains). Expect to step onto a wet floor, unless you have some how mastered the art of the European shower (I have not).

%Gallery-44711%

Do try the continental breakfast at least once during your stay. With pastries, cheese, fruits and eggs, it’s a bargain at €8 per person. When you arrive, be patient … advice to heed at any restaurant in Spain. Nobody’s in a hurry, and there’s nothing you can do about it. For a caffeine-addled New Yorker, this is nothing short of torture, but it’s unavoidable. Get used to the fact that it will take a while for you to be seated and that coffee refills are not always as prompt as you would prefer.

If you plan to have dinner at the hotel, make sure it isn’t closed for a special event. I was disappointed that (a) I was not able to dine there one night (after waiting a while for the restaurant to open and (b) that no sign indicated the restaurant’s unavailability for the evening. I did eat in the bar that night, which was both sufficient and inexpensive. Somehow, a €2.90 glass of wine has a way of curing all that ails you. The seven year-old rum from Havana, illegal back in the United States, made the entire experience downright pleasant. I paired it with a Nicaraguan cigar (De La Concha Grand Reserve, Toro-sized) instead of picking up a stick from the rum‘s homeland, though, as I prefer reliable taste and construction.

The Hotel Catalonia Gaudi is firmly planted in “Old Europe,” so expect to find smokers in the lobby and lobby bar, in guestrooms and on balconies. Madrid has not joined the smoking ban epidemic, and the hotel prohibits smoking only in the restaurant and in certain guestrooms. This is neither criticism nor praise; it’s simply a function of the environment. Madrid is smoker-friendly. Know this before you book your trip.

The Gaudi was particularly inexpensive during my stay, as early February isn’t peak season for this part of the world. So, the bargain rates I received were probably pushed lower by a general lack of interest in the region. I suspect that May and June are a bit pricier. Nonetheless, you’ll find a deal at this hotel … but not at the expense of your total experience.