A Traveler In The Foreign Service: Free Alcohol And Other Reasons Why Ohrid Is Europe’s Last Great Unspoiled Place

On a frigid day in January 2003, on the Feast of the Epiphany, dozens of men and boys were waiting to jump into the icy waters of Lake Ohrid. As hundreds of onlookers stood on the shore in Ohrid, Macedonia, an Orthodox priest threw a large cross into the water and the swimmers tore after it in the belief that capturing it would bring them a year of good luck.

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One of the great joys of life in the Foreign Service is how it enables you to discover places you’d ordinarily never make it to, not as a tourist but as a local. I had never even heard of Ohrid before joining the Foreign Service, but over the course of a two-year tour in Macedonia, I visited the enchanting lakeside town more than a dozen times. On each visit, I’d make a new discovery – a church I hadn’t noticed before, a different vantage of the lake, a beach club – that kept me coming back to the place that got under my skin more than anywhere else in the Balkans.But it was that first visit in the depths of winter when my wife and I felt certain we were the only foreigners in town that I will always cherish. I had lived in Skopje for three months but both my car and my wife had just arrived in country. We were married twice in the previous nine months – once to get my wife on my travel orders and once for real, but had been living apart, me in Washington and then Skopje, and my wife in Chicago, where she was finishing a graduate program in public health.

We were finally together and I wanted to take her to Ohrid, the place every local person insisted I had to visit. Skopje may be the capital of Macedonia, but Ohrid is the country’s heart – the city that holds a place in every Macedonian’s heart. I was happy to see my old car again, even if it did seem odd that it now had a peculiar looking CD diplomatic plate on it. And the ride along the winding, mostly two-lane road from Skopje to Ohrid was a neat introduction to Macedonian driving culture for both of us.

“People pass on blind curves,” my wife said. “Don’t they care if they die?”

We drove straight to a lakefront promenade just beyond the city’s historic core, with no clue that it was an Orthodox feast day, and saw all the spectators and cross swimmers in their speedos. The competition to get the cross was fierce and the young man who emerged from the water with the prize clutched it like a baby, kissing and fondling it, as friends and relatives swaddled him in blankets and hailed him as a conquering hero. He was the King of Macedonia for a day.

We followed the departing crowd and the trail of gypsy music toward the center of town and found a crowd of people around a huge, bubbling hot cauldron of rakija, a brandy that is the country’s national beverage of choice. A jovial middle-aged man with coke-bottled glasses was ladling out plastic cups of the delicious stuff that warmed our chilled bones. I pulled out my wallet to pay for the drinks but the man waved us off.

“Gratis,” he said.

At first I thought he was buying us drinks because we were foreigners, but I quickly realized that no one was paying. A free, hot alcoholic beverage was flowing on the ancient streets of Ohrid and as the crowd warmed up, people began to dance in tight circles to the live gypsy band. Half drunk men in funny little caps wanted to get to know us, despite the language barrier and the party was on.

“In the U.S., there’s no way anyone would be giving out free alcohol at something like this,” I remarked. “Plus, everyone would have to show I.D., get wristbands, and the whole thing would be sponsored by Miller Lite or Best Buy.”

It was a beautifully organic, free little celebration and I still can’t recall a more convivial scene in my life. After the band and the revelers dispersed, hours later, we visited a host of stunning medieval churches with frescoes that were still vivid and beautiful, despite their antiquity.

Lake Ohrid is said to be three million years old and the town itself is one of the oldest inhabited settlements in Europe. Ohrid’s churches contain some 800 Byzantine style icons dating from the 11th to 14th centuries, and Sveti Jovan Kaneo, perched dramatically next to the lake, is one of the most stunningly situated places of worship in the world. Locals say that Ohrid has 365 churches and is the birthplace of the Cyrillic alphabet.

The streets of Ohrid are a joy to get lost in – we climbed up and down steps in every direction, not knowing or caring where we were going and sat for ages watching children play soccer in the courtyard of an ancient church.

Late in the day, we drove outside town to Sveti Naum, a tiny, ancient church right near the Albanian border. I doubt that more than a dozen people could fit into Sveti Naum at one time, but it’s one of the holiest places I’ve ever been to. It was very dark, with just a few candles lit, and all one could see were the eerie haunting old frescoes on the ceiling and walls. It’s the kind of place where even an atheist might feel the presence of God.

On the way back to Ohrid, we saw a small pack of kids halting traffic on the road, as they rushed up to each passing vehicle. I couldn’t see exactly what was going on, other than that passing motorists were giving the kids some money. They made their way over to us, and we could see that they had the cross that had been thrown in the water that morning. Perhaps one of them was the younger sibling of the young man who had retrieved it?

After deducing that we didn’t speak Macedonian, one of the youths switched to broken English.

“Give us money and you will kiss the cross,” he said. “For luck.”

We gave them the Macedonian equivalent of a few dollars and got to kiss the cross. And it did indeed turn out to be a great year for us, but the luck didn’t kick in immediately. Several hours before, we had checked into a 10€ per night room after seeing a “Zimmer” sign outside someone’s apartment, and we agreed to stay there after a quick look. But then when we returned in the evening, we realized that the little apartment was ice cold.

I don’t recall if the place had a formal heating system that was just set very cold or what the problem was, but the woman who ran the place gave us about a half dozen heavy woolen blankets and we were just fine.

Over the course of the next two years, we kept returning to Ohrid. We found a little hotel called the Villa Sveti Sofija that became our home away from home and in the summer, we liked to patronize the town’s lakeside bars and beaches. Even on a hot summer night, the temperature by the lake dips dramatically and I used to feel like I’d died and gone to heaven when sitting at a lakefront bar on a cool, starry night sipping $1 bottles of Skopsko, the local beer.

I never got around to jumping in the lake in pursuit of the cross, but I’m the kind of person who prefers not to exhaust every option in a place I love because I like to have an excuse to return. If I ever make it back to Ohrid to swim for the cross, I hope there’s still some warm rakija waiting for me.

Read more from “A Traveler In The Foreign Service” here.

[Photos by Dave Seminara, Nikolovskii , moeafati and plepe on Flickr]

These US Hotels Are Helping Guests Celebrate National Yoga Month

September is National Yoga Month and these hotels are helping travelers to celebrate this healthy time on the road. With classes, events and packages dedicated to helping travelers bring out their inner yogi, these properties around the U.S. can help keep you nimble and calm on you vacation.

Hotel Solamar
San Diego, California

As a leader in wellness in the San Diego area, Kimpton’s Hotel Solamar is teaming up with Lululemon Athletica’s San Diego Showroom to offer “Vino and Vinyasa” during National Yoga Month. The program features a complimentary, weekly one-hour session of flowing yoga poses to live music, followed by a wine social hour with $3 glasses of vino. “Vino and Vinyasa” allows participants to practice their poses in the open air, and sunset sessions are available at no cost. Additionally, the hotel will be offering bottles of wine for half off on Wednesdays.

Yoga sessions will be held every Wednesday during September at 6:30 p.m. Room rates start at $200 per night. Click here to book.The Nantucket Hotel + Resort
Nantucket, Massachusetts

The Nantucket Hotel + Resort is a brand new property that just opened on July 12. The property is dedicated to offering rest and a sense of well being for all, from its peaceful island location, to its locally-sourced farm-to-table restaurant menus and complimentary yoga. Until late September, hotel guests can enjoy Hatha Yoga at the Bandstand on Children’s Beach for free from Monday through Saturday, from 7 a.m. to 8 a.m.

Room rates start at $295 per night. Click here to book.

W Atlanta – Buckhead
Atlanta, Georgia

To help guests celebrate National Yoga Month, W Atlanta – Buckhead is offering a “Planking on Peachtree” yoga series every Tuesday beginning September 4. The program features free poolside power yoga followed by healthy and low-calorie drinks on the WET Deck. Yoga is from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m., while the smoothie and sips social is from 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Room rates start at $149 per night. Reservations required for yoga. Click here to book.

The Fairmont Orchid
Kamuela, Hawaii

What better place to go for a relaxing spa vacation than Hawaii? In honor of National Yoga Month, The Fairmont Orchid is offering a “Nama-Stay In Paradise” package, which includes luxury accommodations and daily yoga. Along with their seaside yoga classes, they also have Floating Yoga, or Flo-yo, where participants stand up on paddleboards as they pose. It is done in the ocean, so you’ll be surrounded by sea turtles, colorful fish and rhythmic waves. The hour-long classes are offered Monday and Friday mornings at 7 a.m. and include a warm up, sun salutations, balancing poses and paddle techniques followed by 40 minutes of floating yoga. The boards are weighted down with hand weights attached to a leash plug, ensuring the boards stay within one area.

Package is offered from September 1 to 30, with rates starting at $249 per night. Click here to book.

Hotel Palomar Phoenix At Cityscape
Phoenix, Arizona

With the Phoenix area being graced with some of the hottest temperatures in the country each summer, Kimpton’s Hotel Palomar Phoenix At Cityscape has teamed up with local yoga studios to make the most of it. Each Wednesday at 7 p.m., yogis of all skill levels are invited to the third-floor pool deck for a complimentary one-hour naturally Hot Asana class taught by a guest instructor. Each week, attendees will be treated to a new teacher, each offering a slightly different work out and signature style. To add to the fun, LUSTRE Bar, the rooftop bar adjacent to the pool deck, will also be featuring a special cocktail each week named after the guest instructor’s studio for attendees to enjoy after yoga.

Room rates start at $149 per night, however, you do not need to be a guest to attend. Click here to book.

Mirbeau Inn and Spa
Skaneateles, New York

If you want to celebrate National Yoga Month while immersing yourself in the peace and natural beauty of the Finger Lakes, Mirbeau Inn and Spa is a great option. During the month of September, the property will be featuring myriad complimentary yoga offerings from Vinyasa to Slow Flow Hatha to Yin Yoga for yogis of all ages, including:

  • Prana Flow Yoga – This “breath inspired journey” offers a complete spectrum of rhythms that meditate, rejuvenate, challenge and empower the participants.
  • Gentle Flow Yoga – An hour-long class designed for beginners that starts with breath work and is followed by an introduction to yoga foundations.
  • Gentle/Yin Yoga – A Chinese yoga that works the body’s energy system, improves sports performance, helps with injury recovery and creates an overall state of wellness.
  • Yoga – This 90-minute Vinyasa class is challenging and features guided meditation to help with awareness and relaxation.
  • Aroma Yoga – A 90-minute Vinyasa flow yoga class that incorporates essential oils to add to the healing and awareness of your body, spirit and breath.

Room rates start at $285 per night. Click here to book.

Sky Hotel
Aspen, Colorado

For an unusual yoga experience, Sky Hotel offers guests “Thug Yoga,” a class where laughing is encouraged, posture names make sense and icings are possible. This offbeat yoga style is the creation of Courtney Smith, a yoga teacher and snowboarder in Aspen, Colorado. It was originally designed for snowboarders and skiers who were intimidated by traditional yoga to help them improve athletic performance and keep away injuries. Offered Sundays at 10 a.m. on the patio, students go through a series of postures set to hip hop music or local DJ Berkel Beats.

Room rates start at $159 per night. Click here to book.

Affinia Hotels
New York & Washington D.C.

Affinia Hotels, who offer various properties in New York and Washington D.C., like to encourage guests to stay healthy and fit while traveling. In fact, the hotel offers complimentary “Experience Kits,” including the “StayFit Kit.” This includes a yoga mat, stretching blocks, yoga, Pilates, and boot camp DVDs, workout bands, wrist/ankle weights and a StreetWise city map. Guests can customize their stay via MyAffinia, the brand’s online customization program, and choose from a variety of amenities including the “StayFit Kit.” The items selected will be waiting in the guest’s room upon arrival.

Room rates start at $209 for NYC hotels and $149 for the Washington, D.C. property. Click here to book.

Vanderbilt Grace
Newport, Rhode Island

For a luxurious yet peaceful vacation during National Yoga Month, the Vanderbilt Grace offers various yoga options to guests. For $150 per person there is the “Partners In Wellness” package, which lasts for two and a half hours and includes a private yoga class for two people, as well as a “Vanderbilt Signature Massage” with aromatic compresses for the feet and face. This is followed by a pot of green tea and snacks. Another yoga-focused option is the “Yoga on the Roof” program. For $15, guests can take part in an hour-long yoga class with aerial views.

Room rates start at $495 per night. Click here to book.

The Mirage
Las Vegas, Nevada

For a truly unique yoga experience, The Mirage in Las Vegas offers “Yoga Among The Dolphins.” For $40, guests can flow through peaceful poses while being immersed in a serene, underwater viewing area within Siegfried & Roy’s Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat. The 60-minute classes are designed for yogis of all levels, and are offered Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings. Once the session is completed, participants are given a refreshing smoothie drink.

Room rates start at $71 per night. Click here to book.

How To Enjoy A Small Town Stopover

Many times when you’re traveling long-term, and sometimes even during shorter trips, you’ll find yourself having to stay a night or two in a small town with not much to do. Instead of sitting around complaining about how you have to waste a travel day, use these tips to make the most of your small town stopover.

Keep An Open Mind

If you arrive in the town thinking, “wow, this is going to be boring,” then it will be. Instead, keep an open mind and seek out interesting experiences. Wander around, peruse shops and sights and keep an eye open for anything that might be worth taking notice of. Something as simple as stepping into a woodworking shop and chatting with the craftsman can help you to discover something special about the town. Additionally, sometimes small towns have passionate philosophies that can be interesting to explore, as well. For example, when I spent a day walking around Brattleboro, Vermont, it was palpable how much the tiny town focused on “going local.” Every shop sold locally produced products, and the businesses all worked together to help each other out.Talk To Locals

While I highly recommend doing this in every city you visit, talking to locals in the small towns you stop in is helpful for various reasons. First of all, you can learn about worthwhile activities in the area, and find out about offbeat favorites like where to get the best coffee, who the wackiest local is and where to go to for a great view. When I was in Ouray, Colorado, I became friendly with a local who told me where I could find the town’s most notable dessert, The Scrap Cookie. He also told me that, although it wasn’t on the menu, they would create a scrap cookie sandwich with ice cream, as long as you told them a local had tipped you off.

Stop At The Library

So maybe the town library doesn’t scream “exciting!” but you can often find a lot of information, history, exhibits and classes at these places. Stop in, take a peak to see if there a seminar schedule and check out what’s inside. At the very least, you can always find an interesting book to help you pass some time.

Discover A Local Specialty

Most places, including small towns, usually have something they’re known for. It may be something they’re only well known for by community members, however, it’s usually still worthwhile. Find out what it is and try it for yourself. Maybe they’re known for having great seafood, or making a special kind of handicraft. For example, the small town of Calderon in Ecuador is well known for making masapan handicrafts. They are made of bread and then laminated with clear glue to make different figures. Not only are they aesthetically pleasing, they have a cultural meaning, as masapan is used to honor the dead in Calderon.

Ask Your Hotel For Help

Who better to help you find something worthwhile to do in the town than the people from your hotel. It is their job, after all. Even if there isn’t much to do in the area, hotels usually have a few activity options on hand to help direct guests. For instance, when I was in Dingle, Ireland, it seemed like the town was nothing more than a body of water and a small strip of shops. However, after consulting with the hotel, I was able to find an array of day trips that allowed me to explore nearby islands, 4,000-year-old “beehive huts,” scenic hikes and to meet Fungi, the town’s famous dolphin.

Learn About The Town’s History

If you can’t find much that interests you with a town’s present, try digging into its past. This is one of the top ways I spend my time in small towns, as you can almost always find something noteworthy. I’ve learned about haunted sites, public scandals, local celebrities and where to find heritage buildings this way. For example, when in the old mining town of Ouray, Colorado, after a bit of prying I was able to discover some old ghost towns in the area. It was intriguing to hear tales of the people who once lived in these towns and to actually see their homes and hangouts.

Take A Day Trip

If you’re not happy with where you are but are forced to stay there for the night, think about taking a day trip. Find out about nearby towns, parks, hiking trails, wine regions and adventure outfitters, and spend your time doing the things you actually want to be doing on your trip.

Give Yourself A Mission

When traveling, I often like to give myself small missions to keep focused on learning about the town. If you like food, set out to discover the best places to get a burger, or the eatery serving the most decorative desserts. Maybe it’s history you’re into. Do some research, explore the town’s heritage and visit ancient sites. If you like fashion or art, try to meet some of the local artisans and learn more about what they do.

Plan For Your Next Stop

If you can’t find anything you want to do in the town you’re in, take some time to plan for the rest of your trip. Find an Internet cafe and do research, read blogs, peruse travel guides and look at photos to decide how to best allocate your time for the rest of the trip.

Spend This Time Relaxing

This could be a good time to ensure you don’t come down with a case of travel fatigue. Instead of scrambling around to make the most of every minute of your trip, take some time to unwind with a good book and a glass of wine, lie in bed and watch a movie or just swing the day away in a hammock. You may even want to splurge and pamper yourself with a spa treatment or expensive dinner, which will always help you remember your time in the town in a positive way.

[images via Shutterstock, Jessie on a Journey, Jessie on a Journey, Shutterstock]

Press 1 If You’re Being Eaten By A Bear: Paranoia At A Vermont Campground

The last thing you want to hear after midnight in a deserted campground is footsteps near your tent. Wait, I take that back: the last thing you want to hear is a grizzly bear growling or, worse yet, actually ripping apart your tent with its teeth. But footsteps are a close second or third.

I was camping at Emerald Lake State Park in Vermont last week with my wife and two little boys and, after a lovely weekend when the campground was full, the weather turned rainy and the place was deserted save for one other hearty family.

It was thirty minutes past midnight on Monday night and I was lying in our tent, trying to fall asleep, while my wife and boys were already slumbering next to me. It was poring rain outside, but we were nice and dry and the melodic sound of raindrops pelting our tent had me in a deeply relaxed, all-is-right-with-the-world frame of mind. That is, until I heard some rummaging, or was that footsteps near our tent?It was our fifth night of camping on this trip and the prior evenings had all been blissfully quiet but at this moment my mind raced back to what the ranger told us when we checked into the park two days before.

“Just keep all your food and trash secured because we’ve had some black bears rummaging around the dumpsters,” he said, ominously.

But surely bears don’t like to roam around looking for snacks this late at night in a downpour, do they? I sure as hell hoped not, but moments later, I heard more rummaging and footsteps, this time even closer to the tent. We had met the only other family still in our camping area and my wife had bumped into them in the bathroom brushing their teeth hours before. Why would they be out walking around in the poring rain at 12:30 a.m.?

I pretended like I didn’t know my wife was asleep and called out to her across my slumbering boys, “Jen, did you hear that?”

“Hear what?” she replied, more than a little annoyed. “I was sleeping!”

“Never mind,” I said, feeling guilty. “It was probably nothing.”

But then we both heard the noises again and a moment later a bright light pored in through our tent.

“What the hell is that?” I said, before unzipping the tent and discovering a blinding spotlight perhaps 100 feet away, streaming right into our tent. I couldn’t tell what it was because the light was too bright.

“It must be a park ranger out on patrol,” Jen ventured.

“You think they have park rangers out on patrol in the middle of the night, in a driving rain, just shining spotlights in people’s tents?” I asked, half sarcastic, half hoping she was right.

I pondered this prospect and, in my increasingly paranoid state concluded that the only reason why a park ranger would be out this late at night, in the rain, shining bright lights, would be if they’d had a bear sighting.

“Maybe they’re coming to warn us that a big storm is coming and we have to evacuate,” Jen speculated. “I think there’s a phone number on the sheet they gave us when we checked in, maybe one of us should go look for it in the car.”

I wasn’t stoked about venturing out into the rain, especially if there was a bear or an ax murderer on the loose, but when I saw my wife jump up and get out of the tent, I followed in solidarity.

She called the number on the map we’d been given but it was a recorded message. If a bear is eating you, press 1. If a friend or loved one just had their head chopped off by a homicidal maniac press 2, or something on these lines. There was no possibility to speak to a live person, and after she got off the phone, the spotlight came back into our tent.

“I’m going to get the padlocks,” I said, referring to two tiny little luggage size Master locks I had in my suitcase, which was in the trunk of our car.

After I came back to the tent, dripping wet with Master locks in hand, my very logical wife gave me a reality check.

“You think your going to keep a bear or any other intruder out with those little things?” she asked. “I’m not letting you lock us all in here, you’ll lose the key and then when we need to go the bathroom we’ll be trapped.”

I knew she was right and as the spotlight disappeared I ventured hopefully that we should just try to get back to sleep and hope for the best. But it’s hard to sleep when you’re in a paranoid frame of mind. There’s a good reason why there are so many horror movies involving campers – when you’re out in the woods, sleeping in a tent, you’re totally vulnerable.

I couldn’t help but think of all the stories I’d read over the years about people being eaten by bears, robbed or killed while camping or hiking. In my mind, I know that camping isn’t much riskier than staying in a hotel, but when you hear noises and lights late on a rainy night in an isolated place, it’s hard to be rational.

Eventually I fell asleep and when I woke up, I immediately unzipped the tent screen and saw a van parked about 100 feet away where the spotlight had been coming from.

“Good lord,” I said. “It must have just been these people in their van arriving.”

“Who checks into a campground after midnight in the rain?” my wife asked.

I was determined to find out, so I walked over to their van, unsure if I was going to say something or just have a look at the people who’d scared us half to death. As I approached the van, which was expensive looking and had New Jersey plates, I saw a woman, who appeared to be in her 40s but no tent.

“Morning,” I ventured, wondering if she’d have any explanation for me.

“Morning,” she said, and before I had to decide if I was going to ask about last night she immediately apologized. “I am so sorry about last night. We got caught in the storm and needed a place to sleep. I hope we didn’t scare you.”

I momentarily thought about playing the role of tough guy and saying, “Scared? Who us? Hell no,” but I couldn’t pull it off.

“Honestly, we were scared – we heard the noises and couldn’t imagine who or what it was, in the rain that late, and then with the lights shining into our tent, well …”

“I am really sorry about that,” she repeated, and I assured her it was no big deal, but I couldn’t help but wonder why they hadn’t just gone to one of the motels right near the campground.

She and her companion exited the campground 15 minutes before the ranger arrived at 9 a.m., thus avoiding paying the $16 fee, and we packed up our soggy gear and checked out a couple hours later. As we drove up to the ranger booth at the exit, I recounted part of our experience and asked what one is supposed to do in such a situation.

“In the bathroom, there’s a sign that says if there’s a disturbance past ten, call the ranger immediately, don’t wait till morning to report it, but no one answered,” I said.

“We need to change the signs,” he said. “You’re supposed to come down here to the ranger house and report it in person.”

“Do you allow people to check in overnight?” I asked.

“We strongly discourage it,” he said.

At the campground we had stayed in on Cape Cod the previous week, they actually had a gate that was locked down at 10 p.m., so it wasn’t just discouraged, it was impossible.

On a rainy night, when you’re lying in your tent in your underwear, the prospect of getting in the car and driving a couple miles to report a disturbance in person is not a very appetizing prospect. But then again, I guess it beats lying awake in your tent, dreaming about bears and Freddy Krueger.

[Photos by Tambako on Flickr, and Dave Seminara, video by Dave Seminara]

Under These Circumstances: Traveling For A Funeral

The twisting highways that cut through West Virginia and lead to my hometown, which is on the border of West Virginia and Ohio, are terrifying at night. The last time I made the drive, the fog was thick and low – a meteorological manifestation of my cloudy, burdened mind. Because the hills are steep and street lights are rare, the dim headlights were the only aid my vision had. I couldn’t plug in and listen to my own music because I didn’t have an auxiliary cable and there was nothing on the radio. The hum of the highway was the only sound accompanying us for the ride. My childhood friend, Karin, was sitting at a spine-straight 90 degree angle in the passenger seat and scanning the blackness for shining pairs of deer eyes. My husband was doing his best to stretch across the tiny car’s back seat and rhapsodizing about beauty, undoubtedly in an effort to help unload some of the weight Karin and I were carrying. But we were on the way to the funeral of one of our close childhood friends and our availability for consolation was erratic.

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Just 48 hours earlier, my husband and I were departing DC and on our way up to New York for a five day vacation when I received the news that she had died. She died suddenly and unexpectedly at the age of 28. The misfortune of her passing was paired with the serendipitous fortune of having arranged to stay with Karin in New York. She was a good friend to both of us and as I slumped down on Karin’s futon in her dark Bushwick apartment, I was grateful that, if nothing else, we had each other. We spooned, ordered in food and reserved a rental car.

We had made plans to stay with our friend, Liz, at her parents’ house. Their house was our safe place growing up, a home with both a revolving front and refrigerator door. Her parents have known me since I was 6 years old, but I hadn’t seen them in a decade. Our little car slid quietly into a space in front of their house, which looked exactly as I’d remembered, around 1am. Liz and her boyfriend were waiting for us with Karin’s younger brother on the front porch, illuminated beneath the overhead light. Liz and her boyfriend had just arrived a few hours earlier themselves after a long drive from Milwaukee. We embraced and then discovered that we were gripped by manic exhaustion, the kind that makes your stomach turn while your brain still races. We tip-toed down into her basement, which was still littered with the toys from our childhood, and hung out on the worn-down couches we always hung out on, this time as adults. Contagious, unstoppable laughter erupted every ten minutes or so between the six of us as we recounted hilarious stories of the friend we’d lost. We were childishly frightened of waking Liz’s dad, which meant that our bursts of laughter were followed by a swarm of shushing, which triggered more laughter.

She would have wanted it that way, she was a funny girl, we said.

She was one of the only people I went out of my way to see during the handful of visits home I had made since high school graduation. I hated Marietta when I lived there and I couldn’t wait to move away. But during one of the last visits in Marietta I had with her, she showed me where to find love for the town. We sat side by side in Muskingum Park during the late afternoon, ripping up handfuls of grass as we talked. The meticulously green park hugs the Muskingum River and in the late afternoon, everything glows with the warmth of over-saturation and shimmers with the river’s reflections. A golden beam of light was cast over her face. She looked so unmistakably beautiful.

Her family had asked me to learn and sing a song that was special to her at the funeral. Without hesitation, I agreed. As I removed the tags from the new black clothes I’d purchased in New York with trembling hands, I choked. I didn’t know where or how to find the strength to use my vocal cords in front of a room filled with people I hadn’t seen since high school under such bewildering circumstances when I hadn’t even yet processed the news enough to cry. I bit my tongue and looked out the bedroom window and onto that flawlessly paved, wide street on which I’d learned to ride a bike, on which I’d regularly parked my first car. I went downstairs.

It was weird to see us all dressed up. I didn’t even wear heels at my wedding and yet, here we all were, balancing and clicking in unison. The three of us held hands and walked slowly into the funeral home. We’d given all the hugs and condolences we could give and we still had 45 minutes before the beginning of the ceremony. We walked like a pack of wolves who’d grown up in the wild together down the main street in town and into a bar, one of the few. With urgency, we ordered shots, ciders and beers. Tucked into the wooden booth only briefly, we left as quickly as we came. We walked back in the direction of the funeral home although we were unwilling to reenter a minute earlier than we needed to. Instead, we crossed the street and entered the park, the same park I’d sat in with her not that long ago. We walked down to the river and we sat on the stairs, chewing on our cheeks from the inside out, trying to calm our racing hearts. The sky glowed with that amber hue and I looked over at Liz and Karin, both of their faces washed over with a beauty I now know I’ll never forget.