Band on the Run: Surfing & The Superferry in Maui, Hawaii

by Ember Swift on
Ember Swift, Canadian musician and touring performer, will be keeping us up-to-date on what it’s like to tour a band throughout North America. Having just arrived back from Beijing where she spent three months (check out her “Canadian in Beijing” series), she offers a musician’s perspective on road life. Enjoy!

My five days (four nights) in Maui went by too quickly. I filled them up with as much as I could, and even then the time seemed to slip between my fingers like sand.

On Thursday evening after the last family event that followed the wedding from the previous day, my roommate Elaine and I decided to skip out early and head to Kihei, a surfing town farther south by about an hour where she had spent a few days on her own before joining the wedding party earlier in the week.

My motivation for leaving (besides seeing another place other than “resort row”) was to connect with an old friend and fellow musician: Erin Smith. She and her husband moved out to these parts about three years ago and she is now making her living as a musician in Maui, playing almost every night and “touring without touring.” Basically, that means that she plays to new faces and new nationalities every night because Hawaii is such a tourist center, but she never needs to leave her home and pile into a van or a plane to do it.

Now there’s some foresight.

Before heading to Kihei, we stopped into the town of Lahaina where Erin was playing that night and headed to the venue called “The Cool Cat Café.” She was playing her acoustic and singing – no band – but had a two hour contract with the restaurant which included both original music and covers. The place was open air, as are most venues in Hawaii, and so the sound of her voice caught my ears as we were parking the car and I followed her voice music right up the stairs and into the café, as I’m sure other patrons do when they hear her soulful singing.

Brilliant. That’s marketing at its finest.

Erin noticed me as I walked in and flashed me a big grin while she was playing. Elaine and I sat down to some local beer and watched the last few songs before Erin was on break. At that point, she came over to our table and we chatted for about twenty minutes before she had to get back on stage.

Life on the island of Maui seems to have done Erin quite a bit of good. She is freckled and smiley and has taken up surfing. Seems funny to imagine a Canadian (non-coastal) girl on a surfboard, but I celebrate it for her. She talked about the surfing movement in Hawaii and how much of a state pastime it is. She even referred to the energetic wave (pun intended) that takes over the community when the swells are high. To me, the funniest thing she told me was that it’s not uncommon for people to “call in surf” (rather than sick) when there’s good waves to be catching. Employers generally accept it there! It’s to be expected after all.

Elaine and I slipped out of the café during her second set in order to get on the road for Kihei and to check into our accommodations that evening. We were staying in the same cottages that Elaine had rented before the wedding (Lihi Kai Cottages) and hers came with a cot for me since it was only the one night that I would be staying.

These cottages also came with full kitchens, full baths and a huge main room. Easily double the size of the resort rooms and half the price. Not to mention the fact that the kitchen came stocked with real cutlery! I had to laugh when I noticed this (and take a picture, of course!)

The next day, I had a lovely brunch with Erin and her husband Ross and then spent most of the day watching the surfers before having to catch my plane for San Francisco that evening. It’s not hard to get lost in the sea air, the rhythmic roar of the waves, the transit of the sun across the sky. I took it all in with every pore that day, eager to keep some of that ocean air in my system for as long as possible.

Just before packing up and heading for the airport, I caught a report on the news about the new “Superferry” in Hawaii and how environmentalists are trying to stop it from launching. They said that inadequate environmental assessments had been carried out and that whale calving grounds were in jeopardy. I looked up more information on the internet and found these interesting sites and articles, but had to leave before I could ask anyone who lives there anything else about it.

I did feel happy to hear that the environmental activists were at least being taken seriously enough to have the courts involved. I’ll be trying to keep up with it from here.

I waved goodbye to Hawaii from the departures lounge, a floor of the airport that has no walls. It is open air just like the cafes. You arrive on the sidewalk and you have no need to walk through any doors because there simply aren’t any. You just walk towards the desk of your airline.

I laughed out loud when I noticed that and one of the porters looked at me strangely. I just smiled back at him and checked into my flight at the very last possible moment.

There was still sand under my nails.

I’m taking some of Hawaii home with me, in more ways than one!

How to Access Malibu Beaches and Legally Piss Off the Homeowners who live there

by Neil Woodburn on

An ongoing cat and mouse game on the beaches of Malibu regularly pits wealthy beachfront homeowners against the general public seeking access to their sand and surf.

Malibu has 27 miles of coastline. Technically, it is all open to the public. The problem, however, is that many homeowners have illegally asserted their claim to much of this public property by blocking access to the beach itself as well as posting signs stating that the beach in front of their homes is private property.

There is only half truth to this. California State Law recognizes only part of the beach in front of these homes as private. According to the California Coastal Commission, “the state of California owns… the land seaward… of what is called the mean high tide line.”

In short, this means that the public has access to the wet sand, not the dry sand above the tide line. So one can walk along the beach, as long as the sand is wet beneath your toes.

Sneaky home owners, however, have built houses and property lines so close to each other that it is nearly impossible to reach that wet sand. And if you manage to do so, local security guards have been known to falsely tell beach goers that they are not allowed anywhere on the sand.

I’ve lived in Los Angeles most of my life and have never swam at a Malibu Beach because of these challenging logistics and bothersome locals. But now, a private group of Urban Rangers, as they call themselves, have taken it upon themselves to educate the public about the beach laws as well as ways to access the beach itself. You can visit their website and learn all about it, as well as download a map detailing all the public access routes.

Surf’s up, Malibu!

Related: Los Angeles destination guide

Glacial Surfing: Another Extreme Sport

by Jamie Rhein on

Neil wrote a series of posts on traveling in Alaska without a cruise ship. Here’s another item to add to the things to do in Alaska list–if you are TOTALLY NUTS!! Head to a glacier, wait for the edge to fall off, and, when it does, ride the tidal wave on a surfboard as the ice chases you down. That’s what world championship surfers Garrett McNamara and Kealii Mamala did earlier this year at Child’s Glacier. This clip from Deep Water Films captures the essence in less than two minutes. I saw a version of this on CNN which prompted my You Tube quest.

Cruise Ships; Catering to a Younger Demographic

by Neil Woodburn on

A friend of mine once said, “death before cruise ships.”

It was in response to the prospect of a group vacation in which someone suggested a cruise ship as one of our options.

Like my friend, I also have a negative impression of cruise ships. Since I have never been on one, this negative impression is based on unfounded stereotypes that have nonetheless been strong enough to keep me from stepping on board. I know, this is wrong, but I can’t quite seem to shake it.

So, what are my beliefs regarding cruises? They are full of old, lazy people who eat all day and, if they are feeling particularly frisky, might play a round of shuffleboard between meals.

This is of course, not entirely true–at least according to Richard D. Fain, chief executive of Royal Caribbean Cruises.

In a recent New York Times interview, the CEO expressed dismay over the narrow minded view that people like myself have regarding cruises. He admits that cruises do skew towards the older demographic but that the industry is eagerly trying to change by incorporating more active activities on board, like surfing, rock climbing, and ice skating.

The result has been a decrease in the average age to just 42 years old.

Well, I suppose this is all great for the industry, but personally it’s still not enough to sell me; until things drastically change, I’ll remain part of the 85 percent of the American population that has never cruised.

Gadling’s Summer Beach Post Roundup

by Justin Glow on

Best Nude Beaches — Gadling blogger Willy visited a nude beach. Once. “After spending a few days at the gorgeous, trendy, topless-friendly (but ridiculously overcrowded) Clifton Beach, we decided to mix things up and head farther afield. Sandy Bay was, as promised, remote, quiet, and pristine. It was also filled with creepily bronzed, withered middle-aged men who were so evidently trying to ogle my junk that I couldn’t relax. In short, it was fun, it was different — but it was time to go.”

Keep Your Gadgets Charged on the Beach — The Juice Bag is the “world’s first heavy-duty solar beach tote.” It has an ultra-thin solar panel built into the side which harnesses the power of the sun and converts it into juice for your cellphone, digital camera, sombrero, or other gadgets you may bring to the beach to ruin with sand.

Tiny Island Nation Seeks Tourists — “Love beachside bungalows? Does the thought of few (or no) other travelers excite you? Lemme guess: you like friendly locals? If this combination sounds too good to be true, it’s not. I’ve got one word for you: Principe.”

Protect Your Electronics at the Beach — “How do you keep those electric doodads safe from sun, sand, and surf?”

5 Hidden, Affordable Beach Destinations — “The piece details five North American spots that are jam-packed with activities, food, fresh air — and beaches. Just to clarify up front: “affordable” means meals run $8-$20 and accommodation runs roughly $100 a night. Still interested?”

13 Budget Beaches — “Beaches are my favorite holiday getaways. Unfortunately, many people prize beaches, and as such, they can be expensive to get away to. Enter Concierge, which has compiled a baker’s dozen of the world’s best affordable beaches. Of course, depending on where you live, some of the destinations may cost a few pennies to reach, but with accommodation prices this low, you can afford it.”

World’s Best Active Beaches — “I love relaxing on the sand, in the sun, with a beer on one side, a dog on the other, and a magazine with lots of pictures in front of me. Occasionally, I gaze out at the paragliders and envy them their active lifestyles. Then, I take a long, slow sip of my cold drink and remember why I came to the beach. Yes… relaxing on the sand is wonderful.”