Talking Travel and France with NPR journalist Eleanor Beardsley

by Grant Martin on

On a recent sunny winter day, I stopped in a café in Boucicaut, in the heart of Paris’s 15th arrondissiment for a drink with Eleanor Beardsley. As NPR’s Paris based correspondent, much of our European news comes from via Mrs. Beardsley. Though you may not recognize her name, her voice permeates the airwaves of Morning Edition, Marketplace and The World, reporting on issues from the perennial transportation strikes to the recent marriage of Nicolas Sarközy.

Her work has taken her across Europe, from UN work in Kosovo to coverage of the recent terrorist bombings in London to World War I battlegrounds in the French countryside. Through her work she’s become a seasoned traveler and expatriate living in Parisian Society.

To listen to our conversation, click the play button below:

Or you can read a transcript after the jump.

Grant: So after living here for as many years as you’ve been, does Charles De Gaulle [airport] ever get less obnoxious?

Eleanor Beardsley: I almost always end up taking a taxi, and if its not at peak time its okay — for like 40 Euros. But if I’m alone, what I usually find is the best way is the Roissy Bus. This bus circles around the terminal and basically you come out where you have your bags — it will pick you up and it lets you off at several points in Paris. I haven’t taken the RER in a long time; the RER will be quicker because it’s the train, but I think getting to it with your bags can sometimes be a hassle. I just get my bags, come out front, it does a whole tour of the airport, it’ll pick you up and it’ll take you to Opéra, or Charles De Gaulle [Etoille], the Arc de Triomphe — anywhere you really need to go, and then from there either I take the subway or I just catch a cab, it’s 8 Euros.

G: Do you find that you’re on assignment much for NPR then?

EB: Yeah, I mean I travel around France quite a bit — I mean since I had the baby less — but actually I just went to Kosovo for NPR, I’ve been there a few times. I went to London when there were the bombings; I’ve been to the Netherlands. There have been a lot of stories within France — I’ve gone to a lot of different places, Arles in the South, Normandy, Burgundy and all kinds of different places. Basically I can propose a story anywhere in France and I’ll go. They have other reporters around Europe, so I wouldn’t do a story in Italy, for example – and then they have somebody in Germany. So usually I propose around France, but then I have gone to Kosovo because I used to live there so I know it a bit.

G: So they’re pretty liberal with the stories you propose?

EB: Oh yeah, I think Americans might love or hate France, but they never get sick of it. I have way too much work – I can’t even do all the stories there are. They really like me to get out of Paris. I should get out of Paris more than I do actually, but there’s always a lot going on in Paris too.

[a brief conversation about hot chocolate ensues as the waiter stops by]

G: Do you have a favorite spot in France so far?

EB: I keep discovering great places because every region is just great for different reasons. I mean, France is just a treasure trove of little restaurants, little villages, cafes — it just never ends. Lately I really love Normandy, I love Honfleur, its a little teeny village — port town — it’s absolutely stunning, and then I love Trouville up on the coast, and then just driving along through all of these beautiful Norman towns, and of course you have all of the D-Day stuff up there and Bayeux is a beautiful town and its a ten minute drive from the D-Day beaches where there is still the landing gear on the beaches. It’s Arromanches in particular with all the landing gear and the fake harbor that they put up. I think that’s just incredible – to have oysters, to sit and look at the beaches…..

On the World War I stuff, up in Battle of the Somme, where they’re still finding munitions from the first world war, and it was incredible – all the huge battlefields are up there. The trenches are still there, that was the Western front and some places the farmers have plowed over them but in a lot of places they’re left and they’re just these scars deep in the grass that has grown over them.

G: What about in the world – any special places?

EB: I want to go back to Croatia, and I want to go to Malta. I did a story in Corsica once; I love Corsica, it’s a fabulous place. And of course there’s the whole world out there.

G: You’re not planning on moving back to the States then?

EB: The thing is, I got the gig for NPR from here and I’m not on staff in Washington. I could apply for a job, but I’m kind of enjoying the freedom here. My husband has two sons who are thirteen and fifteen and they’re in school, so it’s probably not good for me to move right now. But I really love Europe, and you’re close, you can do a lot here, so for the time being I’m very happy staying.

G: We get a lot of our French media from you, and from reading the Times and Post– there are a couple other roaming writers in the area – David Sedaris comes to mind, I guess — I often wondered if you and he sit around at night drinking port and engineering the American perspective on French society.

EB: I would love to meet David Sedaris because I teach this little journalism class – just English for these French journalism students – and I’ll often xerox a chapter of his book “Me Talk Pretty One Day” — just a short funny one I love that’s called “Make it a Double” where he talks about the difficulty of learning the French language, and it’s so funny. He’s got to be a great great person, but no I’ve never met him.

G: So you’re freelancing or a foreign correspondent for NPR?

EB: They go to me for everything, there are other people that do spots – it doesn’t mean that you own France or anything – but I know everyone in the shows and I work regularly. This weekend I had two pieces and they called me when [Sarkozy] got married and they said we need a piece.

G: Oh yeah, that was yesterday. How do you construct something like that?

EB: Actually it’s quite interesting. You have to be ready for it — like I was rea
dy for this story for a long time so had gone on the web and had gotten [Carla Bruni’s] song – she had a hit album in France in 2003 with a really famous song. So I had that ready. He had this press conference a couple of weeks ago where he said “Carla and I, we don’t want to hide, we don’t want to lie”. I already did a story on that but of course I had that sound bite.

And you’ve got — let’s say, yesterday, the mayor of a district of Paris that wed them gave an interview on the radio, so I got that. And then you just put in some TV sound of him talking about it. Then I went out on the street and talked to somebody, so you’ve got the streets of Paris sound with the scooter coming by, then the woman out there saying “Oh, if it’s true love”, you know. So you kind of construct it like that, with a series of things from TV and, radio, with the song, with the woman on the street. It was a quick thing.

G: So did you just engineer it at home?

EB: My office is actually in my apartment. You have to write the script and say how its going to be — fade up sound of this, fade under that, you know, you have to do everything. Then you just send the sound files and they actually mix it together in Washington, but I send them all the elements and the script which is like the directions. Actually radio is very labor intensive.

G: You did a lot of coverage for the election. Any fond memories of that coverage?

EB: Well, I would just go to these rallies and [Sarkozy] was just incredible. I mean, I would go to Segolene Royal’s rallies and I was like “Oh my God, this woman is a disaster!”. I just was so struck by how incredibly good he was. He could just work up a crowd — he could just talk about any subject — he was inspirational. I mean, I was like, ready to vote for him. I don’t vote in France, but he was so good. It was no comparison. It was just no comparison. So there was a lot of excitement when he won and I can understand that, but it’s true since then….

G: There have been struggles, right?

EB: It’s like when every leader comes in – Bill Clinton came in and look what happened, that took a long time. Yeah he came in the economy’s not good and then people said “Wait, what is this private life stuff?”. Although they’re very interested, they’re like, “What’s he doing, what about the state of France?”

G: And all that reform he was supposed to make?

EB: He actually did pass a lot of reforms and he’s only been in eight months, so there will be some things going on. It’s just the economy in the world stinks, so that’s not his fault. I think him getting married sort of is going to settle this a little bit, calm him down a little bit, calm the whole rumor mill, and he’ll be able to get on with thing.

G: You probably would have voted for Sarkozy then?

EB: You just can’t help it, when you go out and you listen to Siglund Royale and she just had the most waffling ideas, I was like “Oh my God, this is going to be the most disorganized country if she gets in”. As a foreigner you see the things in France that are great compared to your country, and then you see the things that are unbelievably… not great.

Actually I think perfect country is something between France and the US. They have so many great things here but it’s true that there are too many people taking advantage of the system and I just think that with her that would have gotten worse and he was dead on. He didn’t really have any competition because she wasn’t ready, she just wasn’t together. He’s been practicing for that for they say thirty years — and you can tell. There’s not one topic he couldn’t just immediately….

G: So you’ve adapted pretty well to the Parisians pretty well, even coming from Kosovo. I know that Serbia isn’t necessarily in the stone age, but it’s probably a very different environment.

EB: That was totally different. [Puts her hot chocolate down, pauses] There, I was working with the United Nations. It was this incredible environment of people from all over the world working for this common goal. Even there was no power or electricity or water half of the time, work was really exciting, it was a challenging environment, you always had friends and people to do stuff with and go out to eat.

Actually when I came to Paris, that was kind of a shock because this was real life. That wasn’t real life. And this was a real city – I came to Paris at 39 years old – people are married, people are already in their lives and don’t just go out and make a bunch of friends. From that point of view in the beginning it wasn’t easy getting set up. I wasn’t working with NPR – I didn’t have a job at all – I started at the Sorbonne taking French classes. It wasn’t easy, I have to say, in the beginning, but things really fell into place. Kind of like a puzzle, bit by bit.

G: How did you get into NPR then?

EB: Well I loved NPR, and I was working for the World. I did pieces from Kosovo for them and I knew the NPR correspondent Nick Spicer. We had lunch, he was such a nice guy and he totally encouraged me. Then I ran into him in 2004. We were both at this German grave site because he was doing this piece for the World and he was with NPR and he was like “Hey I’m leaving, do you want me to recommend you” and I was like “Yeah!”. He did, and I just started working immediately. I was kind of already up and going. For me it was incredible to be doing stuff from Paris. [NPR] said “We’ll see how it goes and see how you work” and I never stopped… and I went to went to Washington and signed a contract.

G: So is it true then that Carl Kasell has actually been dead for ten years and is just kept animated by Jim Henson’s Creature Shop?

EB: [Chuckles] Probably. You know, its kind of funny, I know my certain people that I work with at NPR, but I’m so far really from the whole real NPR scene, which is kind of good sometimes, but kind of bad because I feel out of it. And I’ve just recently gotten a radio that works on wi-fi, so everywhere in my house I can listen to the shows, which has really been good because I wasn’t keeping up like I should have.

G: Thanks for meeting with me

Talking Travel with economist and traveler Tyler Cowen

by Aaron Hotfelder on

For several years, economist Tyler Cowen has been the man behind Marginal Revolution, one of the world’s most popular economics blogs. In addition to being an economics professor and regular contributor to the New York Times, Tyler is also well-traveled, and often discusses his thoughts on travel and world affairs on his thought-provoking blog. I recently interviewed Tyler via e-mail about his travel experiences, and whether being an economist changes the way he travels.

AH: When and how did your love of travel begin?

TC: My love of travel began relatively late. At 23 I decided to go live in Freiburg, Germany for a year. I was hooked before my first day — spent in Mainz, Germany — was over.

AH: How does being an economist inform the way you travel? What are some surprising or counterintuitive tips for discovering the best a country has to offer?

TC: Being an economist means there is always, and I mean always, something interesting to look for. In the limiting case, if a country or place is really boring, suddenly it is fascinating to try to understand how it got to be so boring. Economics suggests there is always a “why.” Curiosity is what makes travel so fun and economics gives you one way of organizing your curiosity and framing your questions.

My main tip is simply: “Go, go go!” Go. People have a status quo bias when they make decisions and they don’t take enough chances. My colleague and co-blogger Alex Tabarrok makes an interesting point. If you knew your life were much shorter you would travel to those places you always wanted to see. If you knew your life were to be much longer you would have more time to travel; again you would travel more. So, are you trying to tell me that your expected lifespan is just at that length where you shouldn’t travel more? I don’t buy it.

AH: What are your favorite places in the world to visit? Any destinations that you’d really like to visit, but haven’t?

TC: Mexico, Haiti, and Brazil are clear favorites for me. I love the New World and its sense of being fresh and undiscovered. I regret never having been to Cali, Medellin, Santa Cruz (Bolivia), or northern Chile.

AH: “I’d love to travel, but it’s just so expensive,” people always say. What is your response to that?

TC: It’s easy enough to travel cheaply. Just don’t get fixated on Europe, which is now virtually unaffordable. Stay in a rural Mexican village for a week and you will save money and have the experience of a lifetime. The U.S. dollar is still strong in plenty of countries. Is Honduras — a lovely country — really too pricey for you?

Be sure to check out Tyler’s blog, Marginal Revolution, where he’s recently discussed the costs and benefits of long-distance relationships, abolishing cafeteria trays, and congestion pricing to reduce traffic in the air and on the road.

His most recent book is Discover Your Inner Economist: Use Incentives to Fall in Love, Survive Your Next Meeting, and Motivate Your Dentist. His ethnic dining guide for the Washington D.C. area is available online here.

Talking Travel with Chuck Thompson

by Abha Malpani on

Aaron recently introduced Chuck Thompson’s new book, Smile While You’re Lying, and today Gadling got the opportunity to have a chat with him. The interview talks about savage travel stories, “Journalistic Tiramisu,” travel-blogging, the authors complaints on the road, and the future of the travel-industry. Enjoy!

We also have 5 copies of the book to giveaway, so stick around after the interview to find out how you can score one for free!

Thank you for talking to us here at Gadling! The content of your book elaborates on savage travel truths that are usually off-limits for general travel-press, what motivated you to make this book happen? What were the challenges you faced in getting this book published?

I got fed up with coming back from intense experiences on the road – and I mean ??intense?? in both good and bad ways – and being muzzled by editors who demanded copy that sacrificed intelligence and storytelling for the sake of advertiser-friendly pap. Not just in travel, but a lot of magazine writing these days is basically glorified PR copy. The stories I told my friends over beers or wrote about in emails never seemed to make it into my bylined pieces. I’d have a story published somewhere and weeks later a friend would call and say, ??Hey, I saw your article on Panama in such-and-such magazine.?? And I’d sort of cringe and say, ??Oh, man, let me tell you what really happened in Panama.??
The challenges were pretty much the challenges faced by any unknown writer with a book proposal-it’s matter of finding the right agent and editor who really “get” your idea in the same way you do. The first agent I sent my proposal to sent back a nasty note telling me how appalled she was by the pitch and my Thailand chapter and how I’d better rethink what I was doing. She actually sent me some photocopied pages from a book on how to be a successful writer. But I remained pretty confident about finding the right people to get behind this. From the time I sent the first proposal out to the book actually getting published took about three and a half years.

What inspired the title of the book and its visual?

The title alludes to the small fibs that travel writers such as myself have to go along with in order to preserve their jobs as travel writers, the larger ones told everyday by the travel industry that perpetuate the accepted myths of the industry, and also the broader triumph of public relations that’s made our mainstream media supplicant to corporate and government spin. As for the cover, it’s meant to express what the book aims to be-fun and entertaining, but also something that shines a subversive light upon travel icons. A lot of people don’t catch it, but if you look at the cover closely, you’ll find a little subversive visual joke hidden in there.

I had to laugh as you tagged travel stories in glossy commercial magazines as “Journalistic Tiramisu,” could you explain this term?

Just the sort of lightweight, drooling, praise-heavy hack copy routinely applied to make mundane places and trips sound “magical” and “resplendent.” Travel writers can’t just walk, they have to “amble” or “meander.” They don’t simply eat, they “dine.” Any store opened within the last two years is “hip,” “hot,” or “happening.” All seas sparkle, all views are breathtaking. My favorite descriptions of this sort of travel reporting are “witless puffery” and “sun-dappled barf,” both of which I heard from other travel writers. (So please don’t present them as mine, even though I wish they were.)

You talk about the travel industry being in a state of dramatic flux and that the “golden age” of international tourism may be drawing to a close; what then, in your opinion, is the future of the travel industry?

There seem to be two divergent opinions on the matter. Boeing and Airbus and other travel and transportation companies-many based in China and around Asia-currently forecast a five-percent annual increase in air travel over the next two decades. This will cause world air traffic to triple by 2030. Imagine three times more babies and three times as many wankers in the middle seat battling you for armrest hegemony on your flight from New York to L.A.

There is a mitigating factor and that is oil. Can we get a stable supply of it out of the Middle East for the next twenty years? Even if we can, is Peak Oil for real and, if it is (which I happen to believe), how soon will it begin causing major problems with mass transportation? Look, you can build all the battery-powered cars you want and probably make ’em work, but getting a fully-loaded 757 off the ground or turning diesel-powered props of a cruise or cargo ship is quite another story. At the moment, there’s nothing even close to alternative fuel for those monsters. Those things aren’t little, plastic four-seaters that need to range 150 miles at a time. They require real power.

The “savage” type of content in your book is often found on travel blogs. How do you think the blogging industry — that warrants personal, raw and original content — will affect the travel publishing industry?

I love blogs. I like contributing to them, reading them, and being a part of them. It’s the best place right now to find authentic travel writing, even if it’s sometimes rough. I wish I had more time to spend reading them. However, I firmly believe the demise of print media has been greatly exaggerated. I don’t expect print to go away in my lifetime, I don’t expect books or magazines to lose their appeal, especially not as long as we continue to condition our kids to read on paper. You know what’s happening with the children’s book market in this country? It’s a gold rush, a boom economy. When I walk into a bookstore and see rows and rows of featured children’s books, I think, “Good for all of us in the print biz.” And just for portability and tactile pleasure and saving my eyeballs, I do prefer books, magazines, and other hard copy to reading on a monitor. I think blogs already are and will become an even larger part of the legit media mix. This is great. But they aren’t going to replace mainstream media anytime soon.

You say in your intro that one of the best things of being a traveler is complaining about the parts you don’t like, I couldn’t agree more! Care to share some of your biggest complaints on the road with Gadling readers?

I know it comes with the territory and I’m generally good-natured and smiley about it, but I absolutely hate being the zoo-animal white guy celebrity in rural Asian and African villages. There’s a smile-when-you’re-lying moment for you-me surrounded by thirty kids yanking at my arm hair with a big idiot grin of affability on my face. I’ve got a bunch of those photos and in every one I was hating life when it was taken.

Another complaint I have is with uppity “travelers” who complain about all the damn “tourists.” We’re all tourists, to a degree, none really any better than the next. If someone wants to spend his travel dollars squatting for two weeks in a bamboo hut in Cambodia, cool. If someone else wants to take her three kids to Walt Disney World in Orlando and stuf
f them with fried dough and Mega-bucket Dr. Peppers, as far as I’m concerned, that’s just as authentic an experience, whether they enjoyed it ironically or not.

What is the worst thing that has happened to you on the road?

I guess having all my money-$1,200-stolen in Thailand. I attempted to turn this into a humorous story in Smile When You’re Lying, but it was absolutely horrible when it happened and I was not thinking at the time how enriching an experience it was. In fact, I was sort of panicked. I was on an island and couldn’t even get off to make a phone call for help for lack of ferry fare. Wandering around that island starving and begging for help was lonely and miserable and embarrassing.

The biggest travel myth in your opinion?

That places are dangerous and people are scary and out to get you. I’ve been to a lot of cities and countries I was repeatedly warned not to go because it was so dangerous. Muslim-rebel territory in Mindanao in the Philippines. The Congolese jungle. Caracas. Wherever there are people, there’s normalcy. People go to work and school, they buy food at the market, they make dinner, they love their families, they’re generally kind or at least civil with strangers. I’m not talking about legitimate war zones, which are different, but for the most part, the paranoia of many people about international travel is grossly unjustified. People who don’t travel to these places think that those of us who do are adventurous and brave. But you go to these places and you see what a lie that is. And you come home and smile about it. What the hell, let ’em think you’re brave. Maybe they’ll buy one of your books.

Thanks, Chuck!

More information can be found at www.chuckthompsonbooks.com

Want to win a copy of the book? It’s easy. Here’s how:

  • To enter, simply leave a comment below telling us about the worst thing that’s happened to you while traveling. Make sure to use a valid e-mail address, or else we’ll have no way to contact you if you win!
  • The comment must be left before Friday, January 4, 2008 at 8:00 PM Eastern Time.
  • You may enter once.
  • 5 winners will be selected in a random drawing.
  • 5 winners will receive Smile When You’re Lying (valued at $15.00).
  • Click Here for complete Official Rules.

Talking Travel with Michelle Waitzman, Author of Sex in a Tent

by Kelly Amabile on

Campers around the world have surely tried their hand at this extracurricular activity before. But even seasoned adventurers may learn some new tips or techniques in this recent release from Wilderness Press dedicated to the art of outdoor love. Sex in a Tent: A Wild Couple’s Guide to Getting Naughty in Nature is the first comprehensive guide to getting it on outside, and a must have for couples looking to heat things up during tent-toting travels.

Forget hotels and hostels for romantic getaways — give Mother Nature a spin! That’s what writer and adventurer Michelle Waitzman set out to do with her partner. Their first attempt at sex-with-a-change-of-scenery did not go as planned, giving birth to the idea for this guide to stress-free outdoor escapades.

Michelle recently took some time to tell us more about this unique guide to the great outdoors. The interview is accompanied with photos of Michelle and her partner on hiking adventures around New Zealand — and we’ve also got a sneak peek at one of Ann Miya’s fun illustrations from the book. Read on to see and learn more!

Your book’s title seems to suggest a whole new meaning for the term “wanderlust”. How much can you tell us about when and where the idea for this book came about?

When my partner and I went on our first camping trip together, it was in a brand-new tent he’d just bought. So not only were we still getting to know each other, we were also in an unfamiliar tent. Let’s just say it wasn’t the most spectacular night of our relationship. On the hike out to the car the next day I said “Someone ought to write a book about how to have sex in a tent.” And the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to research and write the book myself!

And how does one go about documenting the research done for a guide like this?

The first thing I had to do was reassure people that I wouldn’t use their real names unless they wanted me to. People are much more open about their naughty sides when they know they won’t be identified! Then I searched camping forums online, contacted hiking clubs, and posted signs at camping shops. I put together a questionnaire that would help to create a picture of what different couples get up to when they disappear into the wilderness. I was surprised by the huge range of answers I got – from those who didn’t take their sex life into the woods with them at all, to those who found it was the perfect opportunity to play out their wildest fantasies.

But seriously, is a book on this topic really necessary? Isn’t the sexual drive instinctual?

Most of us establish our relationships in an urban context. When you go camping it changes all of the rules. Gender roles get tested, the bedroom disappears, and different dynamics are involved. So the book covers everything you need to know to keep your relationship strong and satisfying – not just your sex life. After all, if you have a big fight trying to put up the tent, you won’t be getting any sex anyway! As for the more physical subject matter, we can all benefit from expanding our repertoire a little, can’t we?

Is the guide meant for experienced campers only? Or do you offer tips for first-timers campers too?

Sex in a Tent includes tips and advice for all levels of campers. It also deals with the fact that in many relationships, one partner is an experienced camper and the other is a first-timer. The entire first chapter is devoted to making things easier for a beginner, so that you don’t scare your partner away. Camping for the first time can be pretty intimidating, and it’s easy for someone who’s an old hand at it to forget what it felt like the first time. If you get it right to start with, it can lead to a real outdoors “happily ever after”. But if you get it wrong, you’ll never get a second chance at it.

What are some of the pros and cons of having sex in a tent? Why bother?

The fresh air and natural sounds you experience outdoors at night can be a real turn-on. It can literally bring out our more “animal” instincts. And in some ways having sex in a tent satisfies any exhibitionist urges you might have without actually exposing yourselves in public. There’s just a thin layer of fabric between you and the whole world! Some couples also say that they can relax more with their sex lives when they’re camping, because their usual routine or schedule doesn’t apply. There’s a certain freedom to it. No phones ringing, no television, no alarm clock.

Cons? Well, you are in a limited space so you have to be careful. And tents don’t block sound at all, so if there are other campers nearby you can’t be too loud. It’s a bit of a challenge for “screamers”.


How about practical and logistical issues that travelers should keep in mind — For example, what can readers expect to learn in the chapter “How to keep smelling good enough to kiss”?

There are lots of logistics involved in camping, as any camper will tell you. But when you also want to be sexy there are additional things to take into account. You don’t want to smell like week-old hiking socks if you are expecting to get cozy with your partner! So finding ways to clean up, keep your breath fresh, and look good can be important. I’ve got a lot of tips for both men and women.

Women usually have the desire to look and smell better but don’t know how. Men, on the other hand, tend to forget about their appearance and odor altogether once they leave the house. So there are some gentle reminders that if they pay a little attention to those things the rewards will be worth it.

Other logistics I discuss include planning romantic meals, packing your backpacks (men and women need to pack differently, and it’s not to make room for a hair dryer!), and wearing the right clothing. I also get into trip planning, and ways to make sure that you’ve put together a trip you’re BOTH going to enjoy.

I don’t see smores or marshmallows on your list of “foods to put you in the mood” — But do you think these traditional camping staples might also do the trick?

The foods that turn us on are so individual. For some people it’s salty treats, and for others it’s sweets. I listed some of the classics, like oysters, licorice and chocolate, but there’s no right or wrong. Toasted marshmallows can be very sexy, because they’re so warm and gooey. They’re also fun to lick off of your partner’s fingers!

On the other hand, some of the traditional camping foods might have a strong association in people’s minds with a more innocent time in their lives, and it can be hard to feel sexy when you’re reliving your childhood.

Our tastes also change when we grow up, so even if you used to just adore heating up a can of Spaghetti-Os over a fire, you might find that you’re up for something a little more sophisticated now that you’re an adult. I’ve included some recipes in the book for every meal, which will give couples some fresh ideas for their camping getaways.

Sleeping bags built for two and snow foam (to avoid rug burn) are just two of the items suggested to assist attempts at “shaking the stakes.” What are some others?

Most campers are trying to pack as little as possible, so I don’t recommend bringing along a whole lot of extras just to spice things up. But there are some light and small items that can make a big difference. Silk sleeping bag liners have a wonderful, luxurious feel to them. Get a double size and suddenly your tent feels like a 5-star hotel! There are these cool “couplers” that keep two sleeping pads connected side-by-side so that you have a double bed to work with. Condoms are helpful even if you don’t “need” them for protection because they can keep things tidier. And wet wipes are great for cleaning up, both yourselves and anything in the tent that needs it after a close encounter. I discuss a lot of different sex toys in Sex in a Tent, but the lightest and easiest to pack is a blindfold. Not only can it spice up your night, it can also keep the sun from waking you up too early the next morning!

Can you share some tent techniques tips? How can couples have sex in a tent without destroying i
t?

The tent is not a good place to work your way through the entire Kama Sutra. Choosing positions that use smaller movements is ideal. Avoid any flailing limbs, as a kick against the side of the tent can bring it down or cause an indoor rainstorm. I won’t go into too much detail here, but there are lots of suggestions in the book depending on the shape of the tent and the couple’s preferences.

Do you mention specific brands of tents in your book? Are there some you suggest as best suited for getting-it-on outdoors?

The size and shape of the tent are more important than the brand. Some positions require a bit of headroom, so dome tents are preferable to tunnels in that case. Other couples require more length, but don’t care about height. So it’s important to look at the tent’s dimensions if you are tall, or like to spread out. And if you’re car camping, bring a three-person tent instead of a two-person tent to open up more possibilities. In fact, some couples bring a family-sized tent and use an inflatable air bed and duvet. Whatever size or shape you choose, make sure it has good ventilation for when things start getting steamy inside!

Outside of the sexual realm, I suggest that couples look for a tent with two doors. That way they can each get out in the middle of the night for a pee without having to climb over their partner.


What if travelers are just not into “tent tango”? What are some of the alternative adventurous locations you suggest?

I found some pretty adventurous and imaginative campers among the couples I surveyed! Sex on a beach is one of the most popular. That sound of crashing waves is a really great soundtrack. The old Canadian cliché of having sex in a canoe has a few fans too. It does take some practice and good balance though. For land-lubbers, wandering away from a hiking trail can be fun and naughty. One couple even managed to do it up in a tree! (I don’t recommend this unless you’re part monkey. Sounds like a risky proposition to me.) In a deserted campground, picnic tables make perfect outdoor beds. And bringing a hammock with you can be fun too.

What are some of the most romantic campgrounds (in the US and abroad) for travelers who want to let loose in the wild? And what exactly makes them the best?

Most couples rate solitude as the most important factor for romance. So the more isolated the campsite, the more romantic it is going to feel. This is where backpackers and paddlers have an advantage over car campers. Try going off the beaten path (even if you have to sacrifice having a flush toilet) to claim your own private corner of the wilderness.

Again, there are personal preferences when it comes to romance. I think anywhere with both mountains and lakes is romantic. But the desert can do wonders too. I thought the Grand Canyon was a great spot for romance, and Alaska was also fabulous. Hiking in the fall colors in Vermont or Maine can definitely lead to a lot of cuddling.

For those who get the chance to camp overseas, there are even more spectacular options. There are luxury camping chalets in the Alps where you can have gourmet meals after your day’s hike. Nepal and Northern India are home to the Himalayas, the world’s tallest mountains. Even if you can’t climb them (which most of us can’t) it’s awe-inspiring just to camp in their shadow. Australia has routes along beautiful shores, or in the red desert of the outback, that are sure to be memorable too.

I believe that any location can be romantic if you adopt the right attitude. Romance is more about the two of you enjoying each other and your surroundings than it is about the surroundings themselves. But I list a lot of specific places both in the US and around the world in Sex in a Tent, so if you’re short of ideas you might find some inspiration there.


Are there any places that outdoor lovebirds should avoid?

Big, developed family campgrounds can be a hard place to feel the romance (although not impossible). If you are car camping, try to do it in State or National Parks where the campsites are more spread out and left in their natural state. Or look for adult-only campgrounds, where at least you don’t have to worry about corrupting small children. If you are stuck in a big campground, ask for a spot in an empty corner somewhere.

Again, wherever you can get the most privacy is the best place for romance. And try to find a place where you can do whatever activities you consider romantic, whether it’s canoeing, taking long walks, going for a bike ride, or skinny-dipping in a lake.

Random question: Are there any nudist campgrounds, like there are beaches?

Yes there are! You have to do your homework if you want to go natural at a campground though. Some nude campgrounds are for everyone, while some are adult-only, and others are gay-only. So ask a few questions and make sure that you are going to be comfortable in the place you have chosen, and that the other people there will be comfortable around you. And remember, just because you’re allowed to be naked in the campground doesn’t necessarily mean you’re allowed to have sex in public.

Did you learn of any sex in a tent horror stories while doing research for your book?

A few! There was one couple who had their tent cave in on them – that was probably the worst! Others had more minor problems, like muffling their urge to make noise, having their children wander in at an awkward time, or forgetting to pack birth control. I’m happy to say that none of the horror stories I heard led to anyone needing medical attention!

Did you interview any park rangers? What are their thoughts on sex in the wild?

I didn’t actually interview any park rangers. I’m sure they could provide fodder for an entire book of their own!

So what’s next in the Sex series? Getting it on in a yurt? Or a train or bus?

Aside from the Park Rangers? I hear there’s a new airliner that offers private bedrooms for long-haul flights. I think the mile-high club is about to get a lot of new members if that’s the case! As for me, I’ll have to go consult with my partner and get back to you later…

Michelle Waitzman’s Sex in a Tent (Wilderness Press, $14.95) debuted in bookstores in October 2007.

Talking Travel with Eric Nuzum, Author of The Dead Travel Fast

by Kelly Amabile on

I’ve never watched a horror movie from start to finish and I’m not a fan of haunted houses. Needless to say, I didn’t have high hopes that I would make it through Eric Nuzum’s new book about stalking vampires. But the title intrigued me enough to start it, and then, well — when a book begins with someone attempting to drink their own blood, you just can’t help but get sucked in.

For Nuzum, it all started over breakfast one day when he noticed several vampire references pop up during the course of his morning meal. His curiosity at the ubiquity of vampires eventually grew into an all-out quest to discover what makes these fanged bloodsuckers so darn popular. The results of his research are gathered in The Dead Travel Fast: Stalking Vampires from Nosferatu to Count Chocula, an intelligent and thoroughly entertaining look at the world’s fascination with these mysterious creatures.

Tracking the history of vampires took Eric from his home in D.C. to a handful of U.S. cities, as well Romania and England. Along the way he made friends with a countess, spent time in a coffin, almost lost his lunch on a road trip through Transylvania, conducted crucial investigative research at the Las Vegas topless revue Bite, and watched a ton of horrible vampire movies (216 out of a possible 605 films that exist.)
Nuzum is a fantastic storyteller — his chapter about the Dractour he took in Romania is a hilarious travel memoir all by itself. But the entire book (a historical hybrid of cultural insight, quirky facts and useless trivia) is worth a read, even if vampires are not your thing. After reading this book, you may discover that in fact, they are.

Earlier this week Eric took the time to answer questions about his new book and the places he visited during his vampire-hunting expeditions. Here’s what he had to say:

You explain in the book why you embarked on this vampire quest, but what about the title – How and when did you come up with it?

“The Dead Travel Fast” is a line from a Gottfried August Burger poem called “Lenore” that’s quoted in Bram Stoker’s Dracula. In the opening scenes of the novel, Jonathan Harker is traveling from England to meet Count Dracula. Once he arrives in Transylvania, just about everyone he encounters tries to talk him out of going, but he doesn’t listen. One of the locals utters the phrase in response to hearing about Harker’s headstrong journey. The translation Stoker used is a bit sloppy, with most translations of the poem using the phrase “the dead ride quick” instead.

In your travels from D.C. to the “ass end of Europe” in search of vampires, did you meet other folks who actually attempted to drink their own blood?

Their own? No, I seem to be the only dummy willing to admit trying that. Now, I am sure that many of the vampire-curious have sampled their own blood before possibly graduating on to the blood of others, but no one was stupid enough to admit that publicly. Except me, of course.

(Supposed) vampires congregate in some pretty bizarre locations. Any clue why many of them seem to prefer meeting at restaurant chains like Jillian’s and Ruby Tuesdays?

Not really. I think that whether they like to admit it or not, most people (vampires and otherwise) go to lousy chain restaurants.

So what is it with all these Dracula and Goth tours that combine fact and fiction? And why do folks love them so much, regardless of whether or not they know they are being told false information?

Because often times the fictitious version of history is much more appealing than the truth. It’s hard to blame the tourists, though, they are on vacation for crying out loud. They want something exciting. When they go to Transylvania, they want to see Dracula’s castle. Now, the fact that none of Vlad Dracula’s castles still exist (other than in ruins–and all the Stoker-invented castles are fictional) doesn’t stop them. They just find existing castles along major highways and say, “Hey tourists, look here, it is ‘Dracula’s Castle.'” Seriously, that is what happens.

What is your take on the tourism component of this global vampire phenomenon and the “tourist trap” aspect of it?

The people who are the most perplexed by the vampire tourism industry are the residents of Romania (Dracula’s Transylvania is now part of modern-day Romania). They know Dracula as Vlad Dracula, the 15th century tyrant who maintained control by impaling just about anyone who crossed his path. The notion that he was a vampire, or that the name Dracula would be associated with vampirism, was a completely unknown concept to Romanians until Communism ended there in 1989. The novel Dracula wasn’t even translated into Romanian until a few years ago. While stories of vampires are very common to Romanians, Dracula is simply something that is used to sell trinkets to tourists.

You describe both the Borgo Pass in Romania (shown at left) and the town of Whitby, England as idyllic places, although neither sounds that easy to reach. Should non-vampire enthusiasts make the trek for the scenery and landscape? Or are these strictly must-see spots for gothic travelers?

Hmmm. Whitby, definitely. Borgo Pass, maybe. While their descriptions in Dracula would lead you to think that they were both dark, foreboding places, in reality they are both quite the opposite. Whitby has a substantial tourist industry on its own, its (relatively) easy to go there, and there’s a lot to do. The Borgo Pass, however, is pretty remote. Outside of a Dracula-themed trip, there isn’t a whole lot to draw you there. Therefore, I’d hesitate to call it “must see.”

Some travelers draw inspiration from Walt Whitman’s “Song of the Open Road” in Leaves of Grass. Should we be creeped out that Bram Stoker drew similar inspiration from Whitman for his classic Dracula tale?

Many are shocked to learn of the Stoker/Whitman connection. Stoker was acquainted with many famous literary figures of his day: Oscar Wilde (who was Stoker’s rival suitor for his wife’s hand), Mark Twain, Arthur Conan Doyle, Alfred Lord Tennyson, and the widow of Charles Dickens. It wasn’t because Stoker was considered a great writer, but Stoker’s boss–the famous actor Henry Irving–was quite popular and attracted these people as friends.

Whitman was special, though. Stoker was obsessed
with Whitman going back to his days at Trinity College. Through his Irving connections, Stoker met with Whitman twice. You see lots of Whitman-esque ideas throughout Dracula, especially when a group of men band together in order to battle against their common enemy. Even weirder, if you look at Stoker’s description of Count Dracula, he looks like a hybrid of Henry Irving and Walt Whitman. Stoker imagined Count Dracula as the perfect man. When he was looking for models in his own life for that perfection, he thought of those two guys.

(Note: There’s plenty more about Whitman, Irving, Stoker and Count Dracula in Nuzum’s book.)


In the book, you refer to an American boy in vampire getup who “…could have performed his routine in front of people in Rome, Stockholm, Kinshasa, Moscow or Tokyo.” What are your thoughts on the universality of the vampire persona?

Just that. You can show a picture of a character wearing fangs, slicked back hair, and a large cape to just about anyone, anywhere, and they’ll know it is a vampire. Very few fictional characters have achieved that kind of cultural ubiquity.

Your vampire travels end with a visit to The Darkwing Manor in Oregon (shown below). Would you recommend it as a destination for die-hard Halloween lovers? And did you visit any other spectacular home haunts or freakish places during your travels?


Darkwing Manor is amazing. It is a couple I met on my tour of Romania who turn their home and property into a vampire-themed haunted house. It is bigger and better than most commercial haunted houses! Plus, you get a chance to explore the Rogue Valley area of Oregon, which is reason itself to travel to the area. Outside of when I am writing books, I general try to avoid freakish places. I don’t want to become a victim of whatever makes them freakish.

How many of the 216 vampire movies that you watched were viewed while traveling to and from your research-related trips?

Traveling to so many spots for research (Romania, Oregon, Los Angeles, New York, London), I spent a lot of time on planes. Therefore, I’d try to watch vampires movies for “research” during the flights. It didn’t work out so well. The problem was that after the first dozen or two movies they become very repetitive and boring. As a result, I ended up falling asleep on plane rides.

Beyond Europe and America, where else would you have gone in your search for truth about vampires?

You can find vampires anywhere–from darkened parks to foreign countries to chain restaurants to someone crossing their fingers to keep someone away. All you have to do is look.

All photos courtesy of Eric Nuzum. Check out additional vampire photos from Eric’s travels, read an excerpt from the book and learn more at The Dead Travel Fast. Eric will be appearing at Politics and Prose in DC this evening.