Argentina’s National Pastime: Pato

by Jessica Festa on




While most people believe soccer to be Argentina‘s national pastime, I was surprised to learn from a local that it’s actually something with very unsavory beginnings. Pato, or duck, is a game that combines polo and basketball, and is the national sport of Argentina. To play, two teams of four on horseback fight for possession of a ball that is equipped with six leather handles. The object of the game is to fling the ball into a tall net, as the team with the most goals is the winner. So why is the game called duck? Because in the early days, gauchos used a live duck instead of a ball. Back then, the game was so intense that many players lost their lives not only by being trampled by the horses, but also by being stabbed in moments of passion.

For a better idea on how the game is played, check out the video above.

Hiking On Patagonia’s Most Famous Glacier: Perito Moreno

by Jessica Festa on

While there are many excellent hiking destinations around the world, not many can hold a candle to the one of the planet’s most picturesque glaciers, Perito Moreno. Famous for its one-of-a-kind forest and mountain views, Perito Moreno is said to be one of the only glaciers in the world that is still growing – about two to six feet per day. And for those who heard about the rare glacial collapse last month at Perito Moreno, don’t worry, you can still trek it.

Recently, I wrote a post on hiking the trails in Los Glaciares Nacional Park. Looking at that gallery, it’s hard to believe this is the same place. However, the park encompasses a variety of landscapes and experiences, all of which are worth exploring during a visit to Patagonia.

There are many striking features about Perito Moreno that pop out during the trek. One is its massive size – 1,740 miles in distance. The glacier has a 3.1-mile front and rises almost 200 feet above sea level. While hiking on it, it seems like an entire town could build a civilization on the ice. Additionally, the milky-turquoise color of the water is majestic and – combined with the crisp cool of the ice and serene silence – instantly puts a feeling of calm over you when you look at it.The area is actually one of the world’s biggest drinking water supplies. Ninety percent of drinking water comes from glacial areas, with Antarctica and Greenland being the main suppliers followed by this particular region of Argentina. Furthermore, every so often you will hear a loud thunder-like sound. This is due to the moving of the glacier as chunks of ice fall into Lake Argentina.

To hike on Perito Moreno for yourself, you can choose a home base in El Calafate. Personally, I booked a Mini Trekking Tour with Hielo & Aventura. The cost was 540 Argentine Pesos (about $123), plus entry fee into Los Glaciares Nacional Park, which is 100 Pesos (about $23). The company will pick you up from your accommodation in the morning as well as drop you back off once the tour is over. A group hike is included and will lead you on a moderately intense trek on the ice for about an hour to an hour and a half. At the end of the tour, participants are given a shot of whiskey and mini dulce de leche alfajor on the ice – excellent for helping you to warm up.

There are a few things I recommend to bring with you on the trek, and to keep in mind during it:

  • Wear layers. On the day of my hike, the morning was rainy and cold, then warmed up, and then drizzled again. Remember, you’re near a glacier, and it is not uncommon for the weather to be wet and unpredictable. If I hadn’t worn long johns under my sweatpants and two pairs of socks, I know I would have been uncomfortable. It’s better to wear too much and be able to take layers off when you get warm.
  • Bring as many waterproof items as you can. For example, your shoes, jacket, pants and camera. Additionally, gloves are required for the hike, as the ice is sharp. While the park supplies them for you, they were soaking wet before we even put them on. Bring your own, and an extra pair in case it rains and they get wet.
  • Follow the guides. They know the safest paths as well as the best lookout points for photos. Likewise, there are many sinkholes that you do not want to fall into.
  • Take some time before trekking to get used to your crampons, which are the spikes they attach to the bottom of your shoes to walk on ice. They are heavy and will feel funny at first, but once on the ice you’ll be happy to be wearing them. Don’t be afraid to use force and stamp into the ice. Also, never walk sideways, and when walking uphill, pretend you’re a duck and turn your feet out a bit. When walking downhill, bend your knees, point your toes forward and lean back just a bit so you don’t fall forward.

The most important thing to remember when doing the trek is to have fun, and take a lot of pictures. Many people consider Perito Moreno to be the “Eighth Wonder of the World,” due to its unique beauty and picturesque location. Remember how lucky you are to be surrounded by such rare scenery, and no matter what else is going on in your life or with the weather, just enjoy it.

Where To Get The Best Empanada In Argentina

by Jessica Festa on

When hearing the word “empanada,” many people immediately think of Argentina. The truth is, the type and taste of empanada depends on where you are in the country. Because of the different climates and geographies throughout Argentina, the best ingredients to cook with vary.

On a recent trip to Buenos Aires, I was sitting with a group of locals asking them about where to get the best empanada. “The north,” they replied in unison.

I sulked. They didn’t mean the northern area of the city, they meant the north of the country. Cities like Salta, Tucuman, Santiago del Estero and Jujuy are where natives agree the best empanadas are. Moreover, Mendoza, Cordoba and Rosario also have delicious empanadas, varying a bit from place to place. For example:

  • In Mendoza, traditional empanadas use a filling of beef, onion, egg and sometimes olives or cheese.
  • In Salta, potatoes, beef, chicken and sometimes even llama meat is used for the dish.
  • In Cordoba, empanadas are sweet, with white sugar, potatoes, olives and meat.
  • In Tucuman, the dish is cooked in a clay oven with lemon juice. Traditionally, the empanadas have beef, chicken and tripe; however, newer varieties also include cheese and onion.
  • In Jujuy, the addition of peas, pepper and onion give the meal a unique spice.

If you have your heart set on visiting Buenos Aires, but also want to try some amazing empanadas, don’t fret. There are two great restaurants, both located in Recoleta near Rodriguez Peña and Santa Fe streets, that was recommended to me by various locals – and for good reason. First there is Cumana, an upbeat venue that uses an adobe oven to create traditional dishes. The other is La Cholita, a rustic venue, which gives generous helpings for a good price.

[Photo via From Argentina With Love]

Hiking Los Glaciares Nacional Park In El Chalten, Argentina

by Jessica Festa on

During a trip to El Calafate in the Patagonia region of Argentina, I asked a local travel agent about trekking options. I was informed the best place to do this was in a town called El Chaltén. Nicknamed the “trekking capital of Argentina,” a traveler could spend days hiking around the beautiful mountains, forests and rivers of the area. Lucky for me, day trips are possible from El Calafate for 180 Argentine Pesos (about $41) round trip. The bus leaves from El Calafate at 8:00 a.m., and picks you up from El Chaltén at 6:30 p.m. Each way takes about three hours.

While I highly recommend spending a few days in El Chaltén to explore Los Glaciares Nacional Park and Mount Fitz Roy, it is possible to see a lot in just a few hours. In the gallery below, you can see my trek, which took me about four hours total. To access the Fitz Roy trailhead, cross town from the bus station via San Martin Avenue. Walk until the road ends and you’ll see a sign that says “Sendero al Fitz Roy.” Enter here, veering to the left, and follow the trail for Laguna Capri. You’ll be able to complete a moderately intense circuit with unbelievable views that will make you feel like you’re in a real-life Bob Ross masterpiece. From Laguna Capri, walk to Poincenot for excellent views of Mount Fitz Roy. Afterwards, continue walking in a circle in the direction of Mirador, another lookout point that makes for an excellent photography stop.

To see my experience, check out the gallery below.

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Magdelana’s Party: A Rare Dining Experience In Buenos Aires

by Jessica Festa on

When visiting a new city, it’s important to become familiar with the local foods in order to better understand the culture. However, there are times when you might want to try a restaurant that offers something truly unique. In Buenos Aires, Argentina, that restaurant is Magdalena’s Party.

Located in the Palermo SOHO neighborhood of the city, Magdalena’s Party offers a truly American and street food-style combination of cooking that is not easily found in Buenos Aires. Specifically, California native and restaurant owner John Deutsch describes it as “California cuisine” with a street food influence. The fusion cooking is heavily influenced by Mexican and American cuisine with a bit of Asian flare. Moreover, ingredients are organic and the food is made from scratch without the use of preservatives and microwaving. To add a local touch, dishes use many fruits and vegetables from the region, like chilies, avocados, olives and kiwis. For example, while their everyday burritos and tacos offer a fresh take on street food in California, their Wednesday night popup menu, called POKE, offers tapas-style street food dishes. Offerings may include Thai chicken satay, Peruvian kebabs or Colombian-inspired fish tacos.

“Popup kitchens are growing worldwide,” explains Deutsch. “We like it because we’re a huge fan of the style of food, and in California cuisine you’ll find quite a bit of Asian influence. POKE is also a very fresh style of food with all fresh ingredients, so it was a perfect match for Magdalena’s Party.”