Beijing’s Olympic-Caliber Parties

by Josh Lew on

Hong Kong and Shanghai have long been the capitals of cool in the Sinosphere. But Beijing‘s trend-setters are trying to take advantage of the international attention brought by the Olympics to earn their own spot on Asia’s glamor map.

Apparently, they have been somewhat successful. Outrageously posh parties are taking place all over the capital of the Middle Kingdom.

The ironically named Commune, at the Great Wall, is a modernist luxury hotel complex. A recent event there was enough to make Chairman Mao do a 360-degree roll in his tomb. The venue’s developers were on hand, along with a host of scantily clad dancers, flashing lights and expensive cocktails, to party with the likes of Rupert “so rich ‘n powerful he doesn’t have to be cool” Murdoch and Quincey Jones.

Corporations are trying to get in on the scene as well. A party thrown by Adidas included an appearance by Jet Li and several other big-screen stars. The proceedings were accompanied by the sporadic popping of expensive champagne corks and the handing out of even more expensive sneakers.

Official Olympic timekeeper Omega tapped former supermodel (now just model?) Cindy Crawford to appear at their corporate pavilion wearing an impossibly expensive Omega watch. Even a noticeably casual George W. was hanging around during the first few days of the Games, looking very ex-presidential.

Beijing certainly has its share of new wealth, so don’t expect all the action and celebrity to depart once the Games end. A growing music scene, a film industry that is coming to resemble Hong Kong’s in its heyday, and an independent arts scene will help keep the hipness factor high.

Behind the Olympics: An architectural tour of the venues

by Jerry Guo on

If you’re watching the Olympics on TV, you’re quite familiar with the over-the-top athletic venues here. To say they boast a “wow” factor is an understatement. These testaments to China’s growing architectural prowess (or at least their deepening wallets, as most of the designs are by foreign architects) are sure to be tourist destinations long after the end of these Games.

But if you’re a bit confused as to what’s the bird’s nest versus the bird’s egg or whether the water cube is made out of water, here’s a cheat-sheet for you.

  • Bird’s nest. Its official name is the National Stadium, but locals and foreigners alike will forever call it by what it looks like. This venue hosted the epic opening ceremony, which culminated in a torch lighting never seen before (Chinese gymnast Li Ning “ran” or “flew”, depending on how you see it, around the stadium’s rim on wires). Now it’s host to the track and field competitions along with some soccer bouts.
  • Water cube. An iconic venue in its own right, the water cube sits right next to the nest. Again, its official name is more staid: the Aquatics Center, which houses some 17,000 people here too watch swimming and diving. And those bubbles? No water inside–they’re made out of ETFE (ethylene tetrafluoroethylene), a plastic.
  • National Indoor Stadium. The lack of a cute name should clue you in. Not much of an architectural gem here, unless you’re into the whole communism school of thought. You’ll be stuck here if you have tickets for gymanstics, handball, or something called trampoline (and no, this stadium isn’t in someone’s backyard).
  • Shunyi Rowing-Canoeing Park. Considering that China makes its first Olympic debut in rowing–a sport it’s literally invested millions upon millions–this facility is quite remarkable and worth a visit, if nothing else to do some kayaking or rowing and escape the fumes in the city.
  • Peking University Gymnasium. Possibly the poshest college gym ever, this new facility–get this–holds nothing else but ping pong matches. It’s well worth the visit because you’ll be on the campus of historic Peking University, the Harvard of China, with its spectacular Asian scenery and little temples on lakes.
  • Terminal 3. Host of the hang-gliding events (OK, I wish), terminal 3 is the newest addition to Beijing’s rather flimsy airport. But Norman Foster’s newest creation, in the shape of a giant plane, boasts some 60 restaurants and 80 restaurants. It’s also the biggest terminal in the world. You might have to fly here just to see an airport.

Behind the Olympics: Hidden Beijing or what NBC won’t tell you

by Jerry Guo on

Chances are, the average Olympics-goer in Beijing will walk away from the trip thinking China’s capital is some blue-sky traffic-free English-friendly capitalist paradise. Well, the capitalist part is no doubt true. But the trouble with Olympic tourism is that by the nature of such events, it’s hard to get past the veneer painted on by the host country.

I spent last year reporting from China, partly on buildup to the Olympics. Of course, most of my “Beijing expertise” comes from those countless nights getting lost in the big city. Though I’m not a local in any stretch of the word, here’s what I know about getting a taste of the real Beijing.
Drinking. I would dare to say Beijing is a drinker’s oasis in a country that rather would stick to tea. This may have something to do with all those diplomatics and their expense tabs for alcohol, but even locals are getting into the swing of things. Of course, I still remember ordering a Guinness last year in a bar and tasting soy sauce in what was probably a Bud.

That pretty much describes the level of sophistication at Sanlitun and Houhai, the two bar districts primarily geared towards expats and foreigners. The real joints are tucked away–The Tree is one of them. For up-to-date insight on watering holes, see this blog and Time Out’s “best Beijing bars” issue.

Eating. OK, I would have to agree with the guide books on this one. For a place chock full with any sort of Chinese food you could want (crawfish and hot pots are its specialty), you have to go to “ghost street” or guijie in Chinese. Then there’s the obligatory slew of Peking duck restaurants.

The guidebooks here all recommend one particular chain found near Tiananmen Square–Quan Ju De. The place has photos splattered all over of foreign dignitaries like Castro and Bush, who have made the visit. But ha! The joke’s on them. These chains are pretty overpriced and to tell you the truth, the locals don’t really go there (like eating at Times Square).

Clubbing. Beijing nightlife is experiencing a renaissance almost as unprecedented as its current architectural one. The traditionalists will gravitate towards the crowd favorites: World of Suzie Wong and GT Banana while the indie fanboys are flocking to LAN and Block 8. Oh, and to give you a taste of how crazy things are getting, the government recently had to shut down secret rave parties that were getting out of control on, you guessed it, the Great Wall.

Seeing. Yes, you’ll have to see the obligatory attractions–Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Great Wall, though I hear the crowds aren’t as bad as you would think during this time. One thought. Do not go to the Badaling Wall, unless you’re looking for something made in the 1970s (OK might have been a few years earlier). More authentic sections are at Mutianyu, Jinshanling, Simatai, and Jiankou, in increasing orders of “wildness”.

I’ve been to all four and recommend each of them, though Mutianyu is probably for more of the older crowd who want to play it safe. Some more off-the-beaten-path sights that I even haven’t seen include the “Long Corridor” and Juer Hutong.

Beijing Weathers the Weather and Pollution

by Josh Lew on

On August 8th, while the opening ceremonies were in progress, Chinese meteorologists had their eyes on the sky.

In the days before the Olympics, Beijing assembled its own Olympic-caliber weather team, choosing the cream of the crop from a pool of over 200 meteorologists. At one point on the evening of the ceremonies, the chief of these weather superstars, Guo Hu, ordered rockets to be fired to disperse rain clouds that seemed to be headed for the Bird’s Nest.

But the hot and hazy weather that came with the lack of rain was stifling. Though the air quality was better in Beijing than before the Games, the haze was still prevalent enough to cause concern. Some of the city panoramas broadcast by NBC on August 9th showed a haze that made Los Angeles look like the fresh air capital of the world.That’s probably why there were no rockets shot at rain clouds on August 10th and 11th. Not only did the rain ease the nearly 100-degree heat of the previous day, it doused the smog as well. Even as competitors in the women’s bicycle road race were skidding across pools of standing water on the roadway and crashing into water-filled ditches, commentators and athletes were commenting on how pleasant the air was. The air pollution index on the rainy days reached 38, well below the rating of 50 that the World Health Organization deems acceptable. By contrast, the pollution score was in the 70s last Saturday, well above the acceptable mark set out by WHO.

Xinhua News Agency, China’s official press outlet, says another round of rain will wash Beijing’s air over the coming weekend.

Thus far, the visiting members of the press have not made a big deal about the pollution. Most of the “glamor events” of the Games have been held indoors. When gymnastics and swimming end, the focus will be on the outdoor events of track and field. If the pollution index is high during the Olympic marathon, we may be seeing athletes don masks to keep the smog out of their lungs. Ethiopian Haile Gebrselassie, once the favorite to win the 26.2 mile race, has already dropped out, citing worries about the dirty air.

Olympic watches (and much more) at Silk Street market in Beijing

by Jamie Rhein on

Last night, one of the news commentators during the men’s gymnastics All-Around competition mentioned going to the Silk Market in Beijing and seeing watches with Yang Wei’s face on them. Yang Wei is the men’s gold medal winner for the All-Around and the Chinese gymnastic darling.

The commentator (I forgot which one) mentioned that the Silk Market, now referred to as Silk Street, is his favorite place in Beijing, I have to say he has good taste. If you’re in Beijing, it’s a place not to miss. Stalls upon stalls of wonderful items.

When we were there several years ago, instead of Yang Wei’s face, alarm clocks and watches with Mao’s face were part of the offerings. We loaded up on handmade quilts instead, even though they are a lot more cumbersome than watches and alarm clocks to pack. I think we bought five in all, plus a large duffel bag with wheels in which to carry them.

Since I was there, the Silk Market’s venue has changed from an alley to a regular five-story shopping mall. Not as funky, for sure, but from what I’ve read, there is A LOT more to buy and the shopping is more organized.

If you can’t find Yang Wei’s face on a watch, which I think would be a pretty fun and funky souvenir, and if quilts are too big for you to handle, look for items that are Chinese zodiac related. I also bought these for friends of mine whose birth year I could remember.