Giving back in Nepal: Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first Sherpa school built by Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust

by Don George on

May 29th marked the 58th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary. Among those celebrating this momentous accomplishment were the staff and students at the Khumjung School in the Nepalese village of Khumjung. This is the first school built by the Himalayan Trust, the foundation Hillary established after his return from the mountain.

The school has a special reason to celebrate: This year is its 50th anniversary, and as such, it is an inspiring symbol of the enduring bond between Hillary and the people of Nepal, and of the vital, life-changing work – not only with schools, but also with clinics, monasteries and reforestation efforts – that the organization has done and continues to do.

Hillary passed away in 2008, but the work of his Trust continues in partnership with the American Himalayan Foundation. I recently had the pleasure of discussing Sir Edmund’s legacy and the Trust’s ongoing projects with Norbu Tenzing, son of Tenzing Norgay and Vice President of the American Himalayan Foundation, at the organization’s headquarters in San Francisco.

Don George: When and how did you first meet Sir Edmund Hillary?

Norbu Tenzing: I first met Sir Ed and his son Peter in Darjeeling when I was 3 or 4, but it wasn’t until I was 7 that I went on a trek to the Khumbu with my father for the first time. This was in 1969. While I remember celebrating my 7th birthday playing soccer at Everest Base camp and spending time with my grandparents at their village, I also remember that Sherpas back then lived very traditional lives and very few children were in school.How would you characterize Hillary’s relationship with and impact on the Sherpa community?

I first truly understood the impact Sir Ed had on the Sherpas during his funeral in Auckland a few years ago. In the way he was mourned, he was accorded the same stature as that of a High Lama. In fact, you will find photos of him in the prayer rooms of many Sherpas in the Khumbu region. A very visible indication of how he transformed the lives of the Sherpas will be seen in Khumbu on May 29 when Sherpas from all walks of life, from all over the world, will celebrate 50 years of education and pay their respects to the man who made it all possible.

In this regard, I think this quote from a speech Sir Ed gave at an American Himalayan Foundation dinner in 2003 is especially poignant:

“I have been fortunate enough to be involved in many exciting adventures. But when I look back over my life, I have little doubt that the most worthwhile things I have done have not been standing on the summits of mountains or on the North and South Poles – great experiences though they were. My most important projects have been the building and maintaining of schools and medical clinics for my good friends in the Himalayas – and helping with their beautiful monasteries too. These are the things I will always remember.”

How did Hillary’s involvement with schools in Nepal start?

On his return to the Everest region a number of years after his ascent of Everest, Sir Ed asked a Sherpa friend what he could do for them. The Sherpa friend replied, “Burra Sahib (big Sahib), our children have eyes but they cannot see. Therefore, we want you to open their eyes by building a school in our village of Khumjung.” He immediately began to raise funds for the school; it opened in 1961 with 50 students. That was the beginning of his work in the Everest region. In addition to the 50th anniversary of Khumjung School, this year marks the 28th anniversary of the American Himalayan Foundation’s partnership with Sir Ed’s Himalayan Trust.

How has the Hillary foundation and dream evolved through the years?

When our chairman Richard Blum first met Sir Ed more than thirty years ago, his work with the Sherpas – which he often called the most important of his life — was already underway. Sir Ed needed partners, and we said yes. Over the past three decades, our involvement has only deepened. We have been the Trust’s steadfast partner in their work: supporting 63 schools, where more than 6,000 Sherpa children receive a good education; medical care at 13 clinics and two hospitals; reforestation projects that have resulted in 2 million new trees; and ongoing maintenance and restoration of Tengboche and Thame monasteries. Our long-standing partnership with Sir Ed and the Himalayan Trust is one that we cherish. The real dream of Sir Ed was that the Sherpas should run the Himalayan Trust in Kathmandu, and he realized that dream several years ago.

What is the AHF’s current program in respect to schools in Nepal?

AHF makes it possible for children to be educated by funding the essential ongoing school expenses: books and supplies for the 63 schools (27 built by the Himalayan Trust) in the Mt. Everest region; teacher training, including English language training; teacher’s salaries; college scholarships; and the all-important components of school lunches for the Khumjung School hostel – a cook and food stipends for the poorest kids.

Is there any particular educational success story that stands out for you?

There are many, but one great example is Ang Rita Sherpa. He was part of the first graduating class, and he now runs the Himalayan Trust in Kathmandu and oversees all of their work in Nepal. Other graduates have become doctors, pilots, entrepreneurs, and environmental leaders. The big story here is that because of a good education, the Sherpas have been able to chart their own destinies. Sherpas really believe and they have proven, over and over, that education is the key to their future. They have done this while keeping their cultural identity strong. Sir Ed could not have hoped for anything better.

What is your dream/goal for the project going forward?

Our dream and goal is that the Sherpas continue to excel in their education while maintaining their cultural identity. But to make sure this happens, nothing would make us happier than to know that they will always be able to go to school. And for that we need financial support from friends around the world. We are deeply grateful for – and dependent on – the many people who still believe in Sir Ed’s dream.

For more information about the Himalayan Trust and the American Himalayan Foundation, visit the American Himalayan Foundation’s website.

Apa Sherpa summits Everest for record 21st time

by Kraig Becker on

Legendary mountain guide Apa Sherpa successfully reached the summit of Mt. Everest yesterday, extending his own record for the person who has accomplished that feat the most often. For Apa, this was his 21st time standing on top of the world’s highest mountain.

The Nepali native, who now makes his home in Utah, reached the top of the 29,029-foot mountain at 9:15 AM local time yesterday morning. He was joined by six other climbers, who took advantage of good weather conditions to top out on Everest. The team began the ascent earlier in the week in hopes of completing their climb before the crowds of other commercial climbers start heading to the top. “Summit Day” for those teams is expected to take place today and tomorrow, with a string of other climbers delaying their start into next week.

With the summit out of the way, Apa and his team will now turn towards their other mission – cleaning up the mountain. For the past four years, he has climbed as part of the Eco-Everest Expedition, a team of high altitude Sherpas who not only lead paying clients up the mountain, but also work to protect the environment there as well. Apa and the other members of this crew have quite literally taken tons of trash, left behind by other expeditions, off of Everest, where it can be disposed of properly. These Sherpas also work as educators, spreading the word about the impact of climate change on Everest and the effect it has on the surrounding countryside.

For most mountaineers, standing on top of Everest even once is a dream come true. For Apa, it is just another climb. After 21 successful trips to the top, it is difficult to say when he’ll call it quits and hang up his crampons for good, but for now, he seems to still be enjoying the challenge, while still doing positive work for his home country.

[Photo courtesy Asian Trekking]

Pokhara & the Himalayan hippie trail

by Matthew Firestone on

Kathmandu may be the first city that comes to mind when you mention Nepal. But when it comes to retracing the infamous ‘Hippie Trail’ of the 1960s, there is no better place than Pokhara. Little known outside the hard-core travel circuit, Pokhara is Nepal’s 3rd largest city, and – more importantly – lies in the shadow of three of the ten tallest mountains in the world.

On Friday, Gadling presented 48 hours in Kathmandu as a brief introduction to the mountain kingdom. But to truly come face-to-face with the majesty and grandeur of Nepal, you have to climb up into the Himalayas.

Prior to the construction of a major highway in 1968, the only way to access Pokhara was to hike in. Difficult access meant that travelers were in no rush to go anywhere else. The stories of bygone sex, drugs and rock n’ roll in Pokhara are absolutely legendary.

With jet-setting flashpackers becoming more of the norm rather than the exception, things are certainly more PG-13 these days. But that doesn’t mean that Pokhara is any less magical. Have we peaked your interest yet? Read on to find out more about the last vestiges of the Himalayan Hippie Trail.Everest is the unquestionable rooftop of the world, but the Annapurna circuit has no less than three mountains that break the 8,000 meter (26,246 feet) mark. Considering that Pokhara and the surrounding valley bottom out at 1,500 meters (4,921 feet), the contrast scale is epic.

And then there’s the vegetation. Lying in sub-tropical climes, Pokhara is flush with flowering plants, leafy vines and towering trees. Outside the city limits, the jungle quickly takes root. Not long ago, tiger sightings were quite common, though sadly their numbers are on the decline.

With so much stunning nature, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that hiking and trekking are the two main activities on hand. In town, every other shop will sell you North Face-branded gear (most of dubious origins), and offer guiding services, chartered expeditions or simply friendly advice.

If you’re inexperienced with high-altitude alpine conditions, consider an overnight hike to the hill station at Sarangkot. Although you’re just a smidgen above 2,000 meters (6,561 feet), you’re still high enough to escape from the urban confines.

You’re also in the shadow of the Annapurna range, and well-positioned for one of the most spectacular sunrises of your life. In the wee hours of the morning, the sun crosses the horizon on the opposite end of the valley, slowly enveloping the Himalayas in a blanket of soft orange light.

Got weak knees? Apprehensive about the down-climb to Pokhara? There happens to be a well-respected paragliding school at Sarangkot, which means that tandem jumps are safe and relatively affordable (around US$100).

Up for a more serious challenge? Consider the 14-day roundtrip trek from Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp (4131 m; 13,553 ft). You will need to be properly outfitted for this trek, and altitude sickness is a minor risk worth mentioning.

With that said, the relaxed pace gives you plenty of time to acclimatize, and there is no technical climbing required to reach the top. Along the way, you can also keep your energy levels high by stopping at remote tea shacks staffed by local villagers.

At such great heights, never underestimate the rejuvenative power of a good cuppa’ tea!

For technical climbers in search of death-defying challenges, tackling the peaks of the so-called ‘eight-thousanders’ is unmatched. Rising more than 8,000 meters (26,246 feet), Annapurna I, II and III are amongst the deadliest mountains in the world. It’s estimated that 40% of expeditions result in fatalities. In comparison, Everest claims the lives of less than 5% of climbers.

Not in a rush to meet your maker?

One of the most enchanting aspects of Pokhara is that the city wraps around the edges of a tranquil lake. Rowboats can be rented for a few dollars, and you can paddle out to an island shrine. Overhead, flocks of hungry swallows do an admirable job of insect control.

Much like Kathmandu,Pokhara is also home to a very large Tibetan refugee population. Momo (Tibetan-style dumplings) are great for a quick fix, especially when washed down with Nepali millet beer and rice brandy. If you like your alcohol in bottles, the commercially brewed Everest lager also hits the spot.

Believe it or not, Pokhara also has something of a thriving Italian food sector. Wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas are ubiquitous – it’s not Sicily, but the quality is much better than you’d think. Carbo-loading is also the order of the day if you’re planning on heading up into the mountains.

And now, for a bit of the nitty-gritty details…

The best time to visit Pokhara is during the dry season (October to May) when the skies are clear and sunny. In the wet season (June to September), Asia gets pounded by monsoon rains. During this time, you will not be able to see the mountains through the grey gloom, and transportation will grind to a halt.

Speaking of transportation, the modern era has opened up Pokhara to the world. Rather than hiking into Pokhara like the hippies of yore, you can take the bus from Kathmandu. Advertised time is seven hours, but the reality is often closer to ten. Accidents are sadly all too commonplace, so be advised that personal safety is no guarantee.

Those wary of long bus rides can fly on one of Nepal’s domestic airlines: Yeti Air, Buddha Air or Agri Air. Flight time is less than one hour, and the views below are nothing less than stunning. As a disclaimer however, all three airlines have less than stellar crash records. Getting to Pokhara may be an adventure in itself, but trust us – the journey is entirely worth the risks.

The 1960s are long gone, but there are still vestiges of the hippie dream flourishing in the Himalayas.

Namaste. Pokhara awaits.

** All images are original photographs produced by this blogger **

48 Hours in Kathmandu

by Matthew Firestone on

Few city names roll off the tongue quite like Kathmandu. Maybe it’s the unusual spelling, the exotic string of vowels or the simple fact that it’s located on the far side of the planet at the base of the Himalayas. Whatever it is, the mere mention of Nepal’s legendary capital is enough to make you want to pack your bags and jump on the next flight.

Kathmandu is one of the famed stops on the 1960s overland ‘Hippie Trail,’ which stretched from London to Sydney via North Africa, the Middle East and Asia. This journey gave rise to Lonely Planet – and indeed the modern backpacking phenomenon – though it ended abruptly in the 1970s in response to increasing regional instability.

Since then, Kathmandu has weathered its fair share of uprising and civil strife, but things are starting to look much calmer. And so, in honor of one of the greatest cities in Central Asia, Gadling is proud to present 48 hours in Kathmandu.Whether you’re stopping by Kathmandu en route to China or India, or using the city as a jumping off-point for Himalayan trekking circuits, Kathmandu demands at least a day or two of your time. Not sure what to do? Try this list for starters.

1) Shop and eat out on the cheap in Thamel. The original backpacker ghetto of tea shops and tour operators is now a proper destination in its own right. Bargain hunters can stock up on bulk tea, Buddhist prayer flags, carved wooden boxes, mountaineering equipment, dodgy antiques and all manners of Nepali kitsch.

And then there’s the food.

Nepal is home to a large Tibetan refugee population, which means that momo are on all the menus. If you’ve never indulged in this truly Himalayan delicacy, then you’re missing out on fried or steamed flour dumplings stuffed full of chicken, water buffalo, onions, shallots, coriander and/or cilantro. Add a spicy dipping sauce and you’re good to go.

2) Visit Nepal’s version of the burning ghats. Somewhat akin to Varanasi in India, Pashupatinath on the banks of the Bagmati River is the one of the world’s largest temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. In accordance with Hindu faith, it is also the site of public cremations on funerary pyres.

To be very clear, a visit to Pashupatinath is not for the faint of heart as the sights, sounds and smells of burning human flesh is an intensely visceral experience. But it’s also a deeply sacred experience, and a potent reminder of the beauty and frailty of human life.

3) Survey the city from the heights of the Monkey Temple. Swayambhunath is a Buddhist stupa perched at the top of a hill in the western end of Kathmandu valley. It’s also inhabited by mischievous roaming troops of monkeys.

Although they’re considered to be holy denizens, they also tend to be holy pains in the rear. Watch your bags if you’re carrying any food. Even if you’re not, don’t be surprised if they snatch at your purse or satchel out of habit. Clever little beasts.

4) Visit Kathmandu’s holiest Buddhist sight. Although it’s completely sheltered from the main road by a row of buildings, Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world. While walking counterclockwise around the base, run your fingers across the prayer wheels while silently mediating. Contemplative bliss never came easier.

Once you’ve completed the circuit, you can ascend the staircase to the apex of the stupa, which is completely strung up with prayer flags and blanketed by a cloud of incense. Add chanting monks and ringing bells to the mix, and you’ll see why Boudhanath is revered as Kathmandu’s top tourist sight.

5) Day-trip to the ancient city of Bhaktapur. If you’ve got a second day to spare, a visit to this once great medieval kingdom is akin to stepping back to the glory days of the Silk Road. Lying at the crossroads of India and China, Bhaktapur grew wealthy on the caravan trade, which resulted in the construction of an elaborate pagoda-filled skyline.

One insider tip: don’t miss the chance to sample Ju-Ju Dhau, commonly referred to as the king of yoghurts. This delectable treat is served in handmade clay bowls, and is unlike any of the pasteurized blends you’ll find at your local grocery store. On the contrary, it’s made fresh and best finished in one helping.

Kathmandu might not have the urban chic of Beijing and New Delhi. But what it lacks in flashiness, it more than makes up for in personality. Where else can you bask in the shadows of the Himalayas while retracing centuries-old trade routes and paying homage to some of the most sacred sites in both Hinduism and Buddhism.

Namaste. Kathmandu awaits.

** All images are original photographs produced by this blogger **

Black Tomato launches Epic Tomato, an ambitious new adventure offshoot

by Alex Robertson Textor on


For years Black Tomato has delighted old travel hands with its inventive, bespoke itineraries to various corners of the globe. The company is especially good at showcasing beautiful destinations not yet well-known to most travelers beyond the surrounding region. Among others, Belgrade, the Carpathian foothills, the Kuronian Spit, and Bhutan have all been embraced by the company.

This morning, Black Tomato launched Epic Tomato, which showcases a selection of hardcore adventure experiences to very hard-to-reach places. These adventures are scheduled for lengths of between four to 21 days, and are grouped into five categories: Polar, Desert, Jungle, Mountain, and River. They are all led by serious expert guides, some with SAS (British special service) military backgrounds.

Bolivia’s Apolobamba mountain range, Mali’s Dogon region, the Star Mountains of Papua New Guinea (see above), the Mosquito Coast of Honduras, and East Greenland are just a few of the destinations reached by Epic Tomato tours.

Epic Tomato’s frankly epic experiences don’t come cheap. At the bottom end of the scale, three adventures come in at £5995 ($9660): 14 days in Papua New Guinea’s East New Britain and Duke of York Islands; a 21-day trek in Tibet and Nepal; and eight days in Chilean Patagonia. At the very high end: 12 days on Canada’s Ellesmere Island for £67,495 ($108,720).