Weekend Drive: Retrace the steps of John Brown and the beginning of the Civil War

by Jamie Rhein on

Friday, October 16, in drizzling rain and cool temperatures, 300 people or so, many clad in pre-Civil War attire, at least four of them dressed like abolitionist John Brown, set out on foot for Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.

The beginning of their five-mile walk, the log farmhouse in western Maryland, is the very spot where Brown and his raiders left for the Federal Arsenal in Harpers Ferry. Their aim? To seize the weapons necessary for establishing a colony for runaway slaves.

As a result of the raid, Brown, zealous about his cause, was wounded and captured in a stand off with townspeople and the militia. Brown’s bold move is credited with starting the Civil War.

It also found him swinging at the end of a hangman’s noose six weeks later after he was found guilty of treason for his efforts. Although Brown wasn’t successful, his actions, along with those of his men, did put the nation’s attention firmly on the issue of slavery.

The original march, also on October 16, was 150 years ago. The march that led to the raid on Harpers Ferry, isn’t the only event being held to commemorate Brown’s important place in American history. There are several more happening this month and into November.

With fall foliage still showing it’s glory, these are perfect days for taking a drive to trace Brown’s journey, both on that night years ago and at other parts of his life. Here are suggestions for a do-it-yourself John Brown sesquicentennial celebration that takes in parts of Pennsylvania, Maryland, West Virginia and Virginia.

Chambersburg, Pennsylvania

  • John Brown House, 225 East King Street. On the second floor of this once boarding house, Brown planned the raid on Harper’s Ferry. Also, Chambersburg is where Brown had a meeting with Fredrick Douglass who tried to talk Brown out of his plan. The plan took a long while to hatch so Brown became part of the Chambersburg community, but under the name of Isaac Smith. The Franklin County Historical Society is responsible for the house.

Sharpsburg, Maryland

  • Kennedy Farmhouse (John Brown’s Headquarters) Chestnut Grove Road. This is the farmhouse where Brown and his men practiced for the raid. Brown, along with his two sons, Owen and Oliver, and eventually 20 followers, lived in the house from July 29, 1859 until the night of October 16. The restored house is a National Historic Landmark.

Harpers Ferry, West Virginia (Harpers Ferry National Historical Park) The park’s land is also in Maryland and Virginia.

  • Harpers Ferry Armory Engine House (John Brown’s Fort) After John Brown and his raiders snagged the weapons and captured 60 hostages, they were forced to take cover here by townspeople and the local militia. The next day, U.S. marines came, broke down the door and captured Brown.
  • On October 25, a park ranger will lead participants past 30 buildings significant to Brown’s raid. The two hour walking tour of Harper’s Ferry titled “In the Footsteps of John Brown” begins at 11 a.m. and will include the significant people as well as the places.

Charles Town, West Virginia.

  • Jefferson County Courthouse. Beginning on October 25, 1859, John Brown was tried in this courthouse built in 1836. You can go in the courthouse on weekdays.
  • Jefferson County Historical Society Museum in Charles Town, Here you can find the wagon that Brown road in to the place he was hanged, the weapons he carried the night of the raid and his personal copy of the constitution he wrote for a provisional government.
  • John Blessing House: John Fredrick Blessing became friends with John Brown when he was in prison. Before he was excuted, Brown gave Blessing his jailhouse Bible. The house is currently not open for public tours but occassionally is open for special events. On October 24th and November 28, there is a tour at 10 a.m. The house is located at 303 East North Street.
  • Historical Marker outside the Gibson-Todd House, 515 S. Samuel Street. This marker indicates the site of the gallows where John Brown was hung. He was brought here in the furniture wagon that is now housed at the historical society. The house was built in 1891 by John Thomas Gibson who helped lead the effort to stop John Brown’s raid.

On October 25th or November 22th, leave your car for a couple of hours to take a guided walking tour of Charles Town. The walking tour, sponsored by the Jefferson County Black History Preservation Society, will highlight the town’s buildings significant to John Brown.

Winchester, Virginia.

  • The Hollingsworth Mill-Winchester-Frederick County Historical Society, 1360 S. Pleasant Valley Road. Through October 30th, “From the First Shot to the Gallows.” An exhibition that highlights Winchester’s involvement with the John Brown Raid. Winchester is only 30 miles away from Harpers Ferry.

For a road map of this tour thanks to the Maryland Office of Tourism , click here. As I was working on researching John Brown travel, their website was a huge help. For more John Brown events, click here.

Weekend drive: A trip on the Reading and Northern

by Jamie Rhein on

These are the weekends of fall foliage train trips. Several states have them, and some more than one option. This Penn Rail video is a journey of the Reading and Northern. The sounds, sites and excitement of train travel are captured perfectly.

Along with showing up close footage of the train, even from the perspective of the track, the video highlights the towns through which the train passes. If you don’t have time to get to a fall foliage train, here’s one that’s coming to you. Here’s a link to other fall foliage trains in Pennsylvania.

Mammoth Cave: Weird stories of fish, TB, mummies and more

by Jamie Rhein on

Mammoth Cave in Kentucky is the largest known cave system in the world and one of the United States’ oldest tourist attractions. Because of its unusual geological characteristics, the cave has been a backdrop for downright odd aspects of human endeavors. Even nature has tossed in some weirdness for good measure.

The first time I visited Mammoth Cave National Park was as a child. What I remember most are the odd tales told by the tour guide. Of course, the vastness of the various chambers and the narrow squeezes of passageways between them did add a mysterious awe to my experience but the guide’s stories are what have resonated.

When I revisited Mammoth Cave as an adult years later, the weird details I remembered were still part of the tour guide’s routine. If you visit the cave, depending upon the tour you take, perhaps these details will stay with you also. Tours range from 30 minutes to more than four hours.

For 10 weird things about Mammoth Cave, keep reading.

10 Weird (or unusual )Things about Mammoth Cave

Weirdness 1: This is more unusual than weird but it is information that you can pull out at a party. If you put the second and third longest caves together, Mammoth Cave would still be the world’s longest by 100 miles.

Weirdness 2: In 1830, a preacher would gather people together for church in the cave. He would take all their lanterns, set the lanterns at the edge of the rock ledge where he stood, and preach about good and evil and the fear of God. The people couldn’t leave because he had the lanterns.


Weirdness 3: Stephen Bishop, a 17-year-old slave, gave tours of the cave to wealthy white people until he was sold (along with the cave) to a new owner. Under his new owner, Bishop became one of the cave’s greatest explorers and, even after he gained freedom, was unable to move away from the cave’s pull despite his plans to move to Liberia. He died from unknown causes a year after he became free.

Weirdness 4: Because large portions of Mammoth Cave are dry, items left there can remain intact for years and years and years. This includes dead bats and bodies of Native Americans who lived in the area thousands of years ago. (Keep this weirdness in mind; it is connected to Weirdness 5.

Weirdness 5: The mummified bodies of the Native Americans were taken outside of the cave to be used as traveling shows.

Weirdness 6: The traveling mummy shows helped grow interest in Mammoth Cave. When the cave started its reign as a tourist site, it was considered to be exotic.

Weirdness 7: In 1843, a doctor set up a tuberculosis ward in the Main Cave near the Star Chamber where he treated 16 patients. The idea was that because the cave was dry, it would help the patients’ lungs heal. It was a decent idea that didn’t work. Because of the cave’s cool temperatures, plus the fires from cooking and heating, the patients didn’t get better. After patients started to die, the doctor gave up the idea of a cave holding a cure. He died of TB a few years later.

Weirdness 8: In the early 20th century music concerts were held in certain chambers of the cave. This included bringing in food to set up a festive atmosphere.

Weirdness 9: Because of Mammoth’s Cave popularity in the 1920s, people who owned other caves in this part of Kentucky would stop travelers on the road to tell them lies about Mammouth Cave in order to get visitors to come to their caves instead.

Weirdness 10: There is a river that flows through part of the cave. Because of its darkness, the fish that live in it don’t have eyes. Depending upon the tour of the cave you take, you can travel by boat on this river.

Bonus weirdness: Up until 1976, the remains of a Native American named “Lost John” was on display in one part of the cave at the spot where he died. In 1976, it became illegal to have dead bodies on display in national parks so he was buried near where he was found.

The blind fish, Lost John and the TB hospital are the three things I remember the most. These recollections add to my thoughts about why it’s important to travel with children.

The details of the places children visit can instill a sense of mystery, curiosity and wonder that can last for a lifetime. Those feelings can keep you traveling.

Along the Hudson: The Hudson River School and top places to see the paintings

by Jamie Rhein on

Four hundred years ago, when Henry Hudson first saw the river that was named after him, I imagine he felt inspired by its beauty. The river not only captivated Hudson’s attention motivating him to take a look-see far up into its reaches, it has also inspired artists to capture its essence, literally and figuratively.

There are places along the Hudson River’s shores where you can imagine painters who developed The Hudson River School sitting with their canvas creating their masterpieces. Unlike how it sounds, The Hudson River School is not a place at all, but an art movement that occurred during the 19th century, and the first to be deemed American.

With the festivities happening in the towns and cities along the Hudson this year to celebrate it’s discovery, it seems fitting to give a nod to these artists who were inspired by the Hudson’s beauty and used its images as a metaphor to express ideas about what the United States represents. What are the themes? Discovery, exploration and settlement. Head west, and you’ll see these themes over and over again. These guys were onto something.

The scenes you see in the paintings, however, are not exactly as is. The artists took parts of scenery that they had sketched in their travels and put them together in such a way to make their point that nature, and people’s communion with it, are testaments to God’s glory. Communing with nature, therefore, is a way to experience God’s power.

The painting Kindred Spirits by Asher B. Durand is such an example. The two men in the painting are of the artist and Thomas Cole. You can read what the painting represented to Cole in this overview of The Hudson River School by Thomas Hampson.

As Hampson explains, such themes are also expressed in the works of Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau who helped found Transcendentalism. To them, and to these artists, what better place to be a witness to the power of God and the human ability to feel and become empowered by it, than in the natural world found in the the American landscape?

Not only the Hudson River is depicted by Hudson River School artists, most notably Thomas Cole and Asher B. Durand, but so are the White Mountains in New Hampshire and other areas of the Catskills.

For a close look at one of the later Hudson River School painters who helped develop the art movement called Luminism that developed from the Hudson River School, visit Olana, Frederic Edwin Church’s home along the Hudson River not far from Hudson, New York.

Here, Church and his wife raised their family and created a home that is a visual masterpiece. When I visited Olana, I was intrigued by Church’s treatment of the landscape. He had certain trees cut down along the river banks near his home to create a certain look to the scenery and better highlight the Hudson River’s beauty.

Olana is merely one place to see Hudson River School artwork. Several museums have pieces in their collections.

If you are walking in the mountains and along the river that were the inspiration for this artwork, see if the muse strikes you. Maybe another art movement is percolating.

River Day: Celebrate Henry Hudson’s river discovery 400 years ago

by Jamie Rhein on

One of my favorite sites last summer on my train trip from Cleveland to New York City was the sun glinting off the Hudson River starting north of Poughkeepsie and continuing until we were past West Point and the shine had deepened to a darker color. The Hudson is a river that has inspired artists and poets and has drawn the wealthy to its banks to create fabulous mansions, private colleges and upstate getaways, and religious types to build monasteries that offer solace in nature and quiet.

To celebrate Henry Hudson’s discovery of one of nature’s river masterpieces 400 years ago, New York is throwing a festival beginning next weekend that starts at Battery Park and New York Harbor on June 5 and continues up to the towns and villages in the Hudson Valley all the way to Albany. The final day for River Day is Saturday, June 13. At each location there are various events to commemorate the occasion.

Some of the main highlights are:

  • Flotilla of boats
  • Parade
  • Cannon welcome
  • fireworks
  • antique plane fly-overs
  • educational programs
  • food
  • music
  • and more of course

From reading the event’s page menu of what’s taking place at each of the festival’s locations, it’s clear how much the Hudson River means to the people who live near it and how the river connects people who live in New York with each other.

At ExploreNY400.com you can find out more information about other happenings this commemorative year.