Iraq’s National Museum reopens in Baghdad

by Grant Martin on

After six years of reconstruction, Iraq’s National Museum reopened its doors this week. The institution, which was ransacked as soldiers stood by powerless, suffered major losses during the American led invasion, and much of the priceless collection was scattered throughout Iraq.

Now, with only one third of the collection restored, the museum just opened its doors to a phalanx of politicians and VIPs, then plans to remain open for regular visitors.

Looking at the gallery (below,) it’s clear to see that the museum has been not only restored but that it’s actually marvelous, with clean polished floors, large, vaulted ceilings and proper restoration and museum techniques.

But the museum’s opening is far more symbolic.

It represents the state of the culture in Baghdad, the slow recovery from a war torn, divided country and the security necessary to open up a cultural center in a former battleground. There is no doubt that Iraq is still a very dangerous place, but the opening of the National Museum is one step closer to a safer, successful society.

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Postwar Iraq gets its “first” tourist

by Jeremy Kressmann on

It’s been over five years since the invasion of Iraq, and the country seems to be slowly emerging from the ruins of five years of conflict. Yet despite the progress, most would agree there’s a long way to go before the country is ready to again welcome “Western” tourism. Random violence remains a real threat and many cities do not have the infrastructure of guest hotels, restaurants and transportation upon which any visitor would depend.

None of this seems to have dissuaded Luca Marchio, an Italian tourist whose random visit to the Iraqi city of Falluja was recently chronicled in the New York Times. The Iraqi police discovered Marchio on a public minibus, without a translator or guide, heading for the notoriously dangerous city of Falluja. The police, fearing for the man’s safety, offered Luca a short tour and then shepherded him back towards the “safer” confines of Baghdad.

When asked of his motivation for visiting the country by the Times, Marchio replied, “I want to see and understand the reality because I have never been here before, and I think every country in the world must be seen.”

Although truer words have never been spoken by a traveler, you have to question Marchio’s timing for his visit. The decision to travel to a formerly war-torn nation is a delicate one, a choice dictated as much by the willingness of that country’s citizens to receive visitors as it is by our willingness travel there. Does that make Marchio an outlier? Or is he a symbolic of a coming tourism boom as Iraq returns to relative peace and prosperity? Only the citizens of Iraq can answer this second question – let’s all hope the answer is eventually “yes.”

Another war-torn golf course?

by Tom Johansmeyer on

It’s becoming pretty clear that the U.S. government equates golf with peace, freedom and stability. The best way to “ruin a good walk” is on its way to Baghdad’s “Green Zone,” which is what the comparatively safe part of the city is called. The Joint Contracting Command Iraq, Mission Support Division is trying to find the equipment necessary to construct a driving range on Phoenix Base in this stressful part of the world. Since I’ve never met relaxed golfer, this could only serve to escalate anxiety levels in an already scary place.

As you know, Green Zone golf would not be the first instance of our exporting a game that leads to high spending, frustration and marital discord. The United States has already plopped a one-hole golf course in the Korean DMZ. The only question that remains: will the new Iraqi course snatch the “most dangerous golf course in the world” title from Panmunjom?

All the joking aside, anything that makes our troops happier is okay with me. Hell, give ’em a cigar to smoke while the smack golf balls past checkpoints.

[Via Washington Post, scroll to the bottom of the page when you get there]

Destinations on the edge: Baghdad

by Tom Johansmeyer on

There used to be one way to go to Iraq. You’d go to your local recruiting office, take an oath and sign a contract. Then, you’d subject yourself to a minimum of 16 weeks’ training under the most unpleasant of circumstances. Wearing your snappy new threads (and a Kevlar helmet), you’d be put on a plane. Today, things are a bit different. You don’t have to be a soldier or civilian contractor to go to Baghdad. All you need to do is buy a plane ticket.

If you’re looking to put the winter chill behind you, Iraq is certainly an option. Civilian flights now touch down every day at Baghdad International Airport. But, as you’d expect from airlines operating in a war zone, information’s not easy to come by. Royal Jordanian Airlines operates flights to Iraq. On its website’s route map, several Iraqi cities are listed, including Baghdad, Irbil (also spelled “Erbil” and sometimes “Arbil”) and Basra. When you try to book a flight to these destinations from the website, though, you’ll see that they aren’t available. To book a flight, give them a call to get more information. You can also roll the dice with Iraqi Airways, but I’d stick to known brands.

Play it safe by taking an Austrian Airlines flight to Irbil. Jumping off from JFK (New York) or DCA (Washington, D.C.) makes the most sense, and the latter is a bit less expensive. A round trip for late January will set you back around $2,000 for the cheapest fare available, so keep in mind that this insanity is a form of luxury travel.

Hey, adventure’s the new luxury. Drop the cash on a thrill.

If you really want to live life on the edge, you can be driven into the city by a “bodyguard.” This service provider is pretty much a guy with a car an AK-47 sitting across his lap. He’ll bring you into the country, but you’ll probably be nervous the whole way. Or, maybe the notion of a stranger in a war-torn country with a rifle across his thighs makes you feel comfortable. I don’t judge.

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According to several reports from the ground, the Baghdad airport itself is relatively safe. There are plenty guards all over the terminals, and they do take their jobs seriously. Photography is not permitted, a fact that the folks with the guns will make sure you understand (though not in a harassing manner). Once you’re on the outside, the rules change. Iraq is a war zone; there’s no other way to describe it. People shoot at each other. Hostages have been taken. So, you need to be smart when you make this trek. Follow the rules when you see people with weapons.

But, you don’t care. So, it’s time to find a hotel.

The normal means of booking a room do not apply to Baghdad. Scour the traditional travel sites, and you will be disappointed with each click of your mouse. So, dig a little. On RealTravel, you can get a bit of variety. Twelve hotels are listed, with rates varying from the Hotel Ishtar’s painless $67 a night to the Palestine International Hotel’s $150 room rate.

Don’t expect luxury. Howard Cornell, a contractor who served in Iraq, remembers stays at both Hotel Baghdad and the al Rasheed. He recounts in an interview with TraderDaily.com that the al Rasheed was a bit beat up on the outside but wasn’t so bad one you crossed the threshold. Hotel Baghdad? Well, it’s only good for “reporters for civilians with a pistol under the pillow.” In town, you’ll be able to get around on foot or via taxi. The cab drivers are comfortable enough with the tourist economy to quote rates in U.S. dollars.

If you’ve become immune to the safer thrills of skydiving and cave diving, war tourism is the next logical step. There are plenty of danger zones around the world; you have choices. Unfortunately, Afghanistan gets cold. Iraq will get you the adrenaline rush you crave, and you probably won’t need to pack a sweater.

Be careful when you tour Baghdad. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times, and you’ll have a fulfilling experience. This is a unique opportunity, and few will make this sort of move. When your co-workers brag of their luxurious or unusual travel exploits, having been to Baghdad will equip you to end their tales … quickly.

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[Thanks, Brian Sayler, for the galleries and photo of Sadam’s palace above]

Baghdad airport welcomes first European passenger flight in 18 years

by Scott Carmichael on

18 years after the United Nations imposed a ban on all commercial air traffic destined for Iraq, a Swedish charter plane has landed at Baghdad International Airport.

The charter was operated by Nordic Leisure and their 150 passengers were mostly Iraqis.

This is just the beginning of what should become a fairly popular route, as many Iraqis are in Europe waiting to return to their homeland. KLM/Air France recently signed an agreement for direct flights to Baghdad from several European locations.

Baghdad airport has seen a slowly increasing number of other flights in recent years, though most of it involved cargo flights. Regular scheduled passenger flights have greeted the airport from destinations like Jordan and Dubai since 2003.

Pre 1991, most major airlines in the world had Baghdad on their schedule, including weekly flights on British Airways from London. BA had originally planned to return to Baghdad in 2003, right after President Bush declared “Mission Accomplished”, but when violence on the road to the airport reached an all time high, the plans were delayed.

(Via: Google News/AFP)