The part of Belize nobody sees: Five reasons not to miss the country’s other side

The Caribbean coast of Belize is known the world over for its spectacular scuba diving and snorkeling. In addition to the 180-mile barrier reef just off the coast and the famous dive spot known as the Blue Hole, the Belizean coast features the backpacker paradise of Caye Caulker, the more upscale San Pedro, and the laid-back one-horse town of Hopkins in the south.

But there’s more to Belize than scuba diving, snorkeling, and catching rays on the beach. Belize, Central America’s only English-speaking country, also has plenty to offer in its often-overlooked western half, including waterfalls and caves that pepper the highlands, ancient Mayan ruins just begging to be explored, and even a pretty, backpacker-friendly town or two.

Here are five reasons you shouldn’t miss the Cayo District, which makes up most of Belize’s other side:

5. Big Rock Falls Located in the heart of the wonderful Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, Big Rock Falls (pictured above) is a 150-foot waterfall surrounded by, you guessed it, some pretty big rocks. As nice as the waterfall is to look at, it’s exponentially more fun to climb up to the 35-foot-high perch next to the falls, work up your courage, and take the epic plunge. For the less adventurous, like, um, myself, swim hard against the current to reach the spot where the water comes crashing down on you. It feels like getting punched in the head over and over, but, you know, in a good way.

4. Xunantunich Reached by a ferry crossing about 7 miles west of San Ignacio, Xunantunich (shoo-nahn-too-nich) is the site of Belize’s most impressive Mayan ruins. Though Belize is not usually known for its ruins, Xunantunich stacks up against most other Central American ruins not named Tikal or Copán.

Dating from the as early as the Third Century, these ruins, especially the imposing El Castillo (pictured), are a great place to stop and explore on your way to Guatemala.

3. San Ignacio A town that serves as a jumping-off point for the four other places on this list, San Ignacio is a quiet, backpacker-friendly town that comes alive, just enough, at night. A welcome respite from chaotic Belize City, and a welcome jolt after the tiny, somnolent capital of Belmopan, San Ignacio is home to several affordable hostels and hotels, some imaginative restaurants, and the Mayan ruins of Cahal Pech. If you’re spending time in Western Belize to explore the highlands or on your way to Guatemala, San Ignacio makes a worthwhile stop for a few days or more.

The best way to explore Western Belize, incidentally, is by renting an SUV in San Ignacio. The cost is about $60 per day, and the rental agency is located at… well, just ask around– there’s only one.

2. Rio on Pools Small waterfalls flowing over massive granite rocks create dozens of natural waterslides at Rio on Pools. Located about 20 miles southeast of San Ignacio in the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, Rio on Pools is a great place to swim, slide, or just take in the natural beauty that surrounds you.

Side note: Swimming at Rio on Pools brought my girlfriend and I a special bonus– our first ever experience with leeches. A little gross, to be sure, but great for bringing you and that special someone closer together– there’s nothing like picking leeches off someone’s butt to create a unique and long-lasting bond.

1. Actun Tunichil Muknal Just because you can’t pronounce it doesn’t mean it’s not worth a visit. The cave system at Actun Tunichil Muknal (mercifully known as the ATM Cave) is reached only after an hour-long nature hike which includes three stream crossings. The hike is worth it, though, for the chance to see what the cave has to offer: ancient burial chambers which display Mayan artifacts and the calcified remains of the dead.

In order to preserve the site, only a few tour operators are allowed to offer tours to the ATM Cave. Though the tour (which is required) is not cheap at around US$75 for a full-day, the ATM Cave is an absolute can’t-miss.

There’s so much more to see and do in Western Belize than what I’ve listed above. If you’ve got a suggestion, question, or idea of your own about what to do in Belize’s lesser-known side, please leave it in the Comments.

Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre World, travel TV worth watching

After last Tuesday’s debut of Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre World, Travel Channel’s expansion of Andrew Zimmern’s scope past bizarre food, I pronounced the first episode that highlighted Cuba–and the second one that was an unusual travel though Belize–a smart and successful call.

Perhaps the new Travel Channel executives will pay attention to Aaron’s post last month asking them to concentrate on travel shows that give a sense of place and not drivel, i.e, shows where the place is overshadowed by the personalities or subjects that are not travel related. Hopefully, they realize that Zimmern’s Bizarre World is a travel show done right.

Sure, Zimmern is a travel personality, but he uses himself as the vehicle to unfold a story, but doesn’t become the story. He’s everyone who has ever had interesting and captivating encounters with other cultures.

Although Zimmern is a food kind of guy, his forte is people and culture–in that order. Food is merely part of the mix of what he finds captivating by his travels. That’s what I picked up about him last January when I met him at the AAA Great Vacations Expo in Columbus, and later observed him in front of a live audience. He’s a natural when it comes to meeting strangers and feeling comfortable–plus he’s a most gracious guest. What comes through on TV shines in person.

At the AAA travel show, Zimmern was the celebrity speaker, and unlike celebrities who are more interested in their own celebrity-hood, Zimmern seemed more interested in others experiences as he is his own. After he talked about what goes into the filming of Bizarre Foods, he pulled audience members up on stage with him to taste some of the bizarre foods of central Ohio. (Yes, there are a few. Head cheese, for example.) The result was a lively interplay with the people around him that bought out the best in the room. At the end of his talk, everyone was invited up for bizarre food tasting and Zimmern happily signed autographs. It was a lovefest between Zimmern and central Ohio

Zimmern’s treatment of Cuba, the first subject of Bizarre World, was as upbeat and interesting as his talk. This was not an examination of Cuba’s underbelly, but about its vibrancy and cultural heartbeat. Politics weren’t ignored, Che Guevara and Fidel Castro were talked about for example, but dealt with in terms of how they’ve had an influence over Cubans cultural practices over the years.

As the hour progressed, Zimmern wove together details of several of Cuba’s distinctive qualities such as: vintage cars, the architecture, salsa dancing, the tobacco industry, Santeria religious rituals, and Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner’s honeymoon stay at the Hotel Nacional in the 1950s.

Of course there were bizarre foods–tree rat, to name one, but those details were woven into a fascinating mix. Zimmern’s signature talent of incorporating experts and ordinary people as the main highlights were present throughout. One might say, there is no one Zimmern doesn’t like and everyone has knowledge worth sharing.

With any cultural trait that might seem–frankly, bizarre–Zimmern’s idea is not to show just how bizarre the trait is, but how, in the scheme of place and culture, the trait is perfectly normal. For example, there’s a reason for having warm blood of a freshly killed chicken dripped over your head. This practice is important to Santeria. Hopefully, Zimmern’s curiosity about and respect of cultural differences are catching.

Unlike a polished canned show, where the outcome is thought of beforehand, and there’s a sense of a script with each shot, Zimmern’s method is to let the place and its people tell their own stories. He’s merely along for the ride and the experience like we are.

When he’s pulling conch shells from Belize’s pristine ocean waters, for example, we’re there too. The part where he collapses into the boat from exhaustion is left in. As Zimmern gets creeped out a bit going into a cave where the Mayas made human sacrifices to appease the rain god, the feeling is catching. However, in the storytelling, the idea is not to show how freaky the Mayas were, but what conditions and belief systems influenced their practices.

The Belize episode, particularly captured aspects of the culture that tourists may not notice or discover. As I watched, I thought about what sort of stories might be told about the U.S. Yep, there are definitely stories to tell. I”m curious to see which ones might be featured in later episodes.

Zimmern’s brand of travel provides a ride worth taking, particularly since it’s one that can result in the unexpected such as what happened last week in Cuba. The boat Zimmern was on towards the end of the episode broke down after it took him on a journey of catching and eating spiny lobster. As he bobbed in the sea awaiting rescue while the sun set, he reminded viewers that a perfect day can end up just like that. But, despite the setbacks, journeys are always worth it.

Travel Alert! Get to Belize for under $150

[ Edit: Looks like this one is dead, foks. Congrats to those who booked a ticket — ed.]

I’ve been sitting on this fare for a few days because I was sure that it was going to evaporate, but here, as I sit in a cafe three days after the fare went live, I stand corrected.

American Airlines is offering some pretty outrageous fares down to Belize for this fall and early winter from New York City (EWR) and Houston (IAH). For only abouht $150 round trip, you can get down to Central America, the jungles, beaches, strong dollar, and some classic adventure travel. Other cities around the country are clocking in at the $200 – $300 range, which, for a trip of this magnitude is still pretty fantastic.

The problem, in this case, is that the layovers on the connections are pretty terrible. If you’re planning on making a weekend out of the fares, you may have to reconsider the 13 hours that you may have to spend in Miami (or maybe you’ll enjoy it.)

They key, however, is to keep everything in perspective. You’re paying $150 to fly to BELIZE on a fare that’s less expensive than it usually is to fly 400 miles domestically. Book it, spend some time in Miami, bring a laptop and some movies and you’ll have a great time.

Belize it or not: Living in harmony with M&Ms (monkeys and mosquitoes)

You can’t visit Central America and not make at least some effort to see the monkeys. That’s just wrong. Monkeys are way too cute to be missed.

Like Costa Rica, and other countries in this region, Belize is also trying to brand itself as an ecotourism destination.

The Community Baboon Sanctuary, a conservation project in which over 200 private landowners in Belize have voluntarily pledged to conserve their land for the protection of the Black Howler Monkey (called ‘baboon’ in the local Creole dialect) habitat, is well-worth the trip inland. It’s only about an hour drive from Belize City.

But, there is a but.

Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes.
Before I begin talking about how cute the monkeys are, I am going to say this: I had never, ever before, seen so many mosquitoes before visiting the Community Baboon Sanctuary (CBS). Anywhere.

The closest I had ever come to this kind of mosquito infestation was in Venice. (Camping outside a city built on a swamp is not a good idea, note to self.)

I was covered in insect-proof gear from head to toe. Still, I had mosquito bites on my face and hands: the only two areas not protected, even though they were sprayed with high-percentage DEET repellent.

The thing is, these mosquitoes are not only tough, but completely DEET-resistant. My watch, on the other hand, wasn’t. DEET killed it (or its surface and band) right away.

What I particularly dislike about mosquitoes is how selective and discriminating they are in the people they attack. Our guide, Shane (see the first picture), was barefoot, wearing shorts and a T-shirt and did not get a single mosquito bite. How is that possible? Are the locals immune?

Clearly, it’s jealousy speaking. I am always the person with the record-breaking number of bites, no matter how much Vitamin B and gin’n’tonic I consume.

What? Gin and tonic doesn’t work, you say? Sure it does. It makes you more at peace with the unfair world of mosquitoes and their poor victims. In extreme conditions such as this, that’s all you can ask for.

I go on about mosquitoes, but don’t let me discourage you from visiting the CBS. But be prepared. Wear long pants (and stuff them into your socks), long-sleeve high-thread shirt and boots. A head-cover of some sort wouldn’t be a bad idea.

Chances are the mosquitoes might not be as bad when you go. We went during the rainy season, which generally means more mosquitoes in the jungle. The guides will give you a mosquito whip-type-thing, made from a certain type of palm tree, that you can use “as a tail” to repel insects (see picture). It works pretty well. At the very least, you’ll get an idea what it’s like to be a horse.

Enough about mosquitoes.

Baboons aka Black Howler Monkeys
CBS is truly a special place. The goal is to sustain the habitat of the Black Howler Monkey, which–hence the name–is the second loudest animal in the world, after the lion. The result has been an innovative project which offers promotes the economic development of the participating communities and provides a unique opportunity for visitors to experience the rainforest and witness baboons in the wild.

The landowners, all 200+ of them, benefit directly from the Sanctuary thanks to ecotourism, aka you. Many more benefit indirectly through the educational programs. The population of the Black Howler Monkey in the Sanctuary has risen to over 2,000 monkeys. And, you’ll get to see them up close, and — if you are lucky like us — feed them a banana.

The Sanctuary was founded by Dr. Robert Horwich, an American primatologist and Fallet Young, a landowner in the village of Bermudian Landing, in 1985 with the initial participation of 12 landowners. In 1998, the Women’s Conservation Group was formed, which currently manages the CBS.

The entrance fee is $7US. It includes a walk with a guide and lots of quality time with the M&Ms.


Belize it or not: Caye Caulker; where backpackers outnumber locals

Isn’t this heaven? (Sorry if these photos find you in the middle of cubicle hell.)

I took these pictures last week in Caye Caulker, one of the northern islands off the coast of Belize. Most people opt to go to the bigger Ambergris Caye, which is a bit more family friendly, but also more expensive.

Caye Caulker is smaller (about 5 miles x 1 mile), cheaper and hence packed with backpackers. The last time I saw so many backpackers in one place was probably Yangshuo, China. These are the kinds of places where you literally see more backpackers than locals. Kind of defeats the point of adventure travel, doesn’t it.

There are a few great things about Caye Caulker, though:

  • Seafood. Especially when conch is in season.
  • Cheaper than other Belize islands. I already mentioned that.
  • Closer to Belize City than Ambergris Caye. Ferries to Ambergris Caye stop here first.
  • Close to the Belize Barrier Reef (about 10 minutes by boat)
  • Best of all: Beach. It is one of the few places in Belize you can find a nice beach for swimming. Most of the shallow cost here on the islands is covered with sea grass, which makes it a little hard to swim. The northern side of Caye Caulker has a great little beach (see pictures) which is almost completely sea grass-free! There is a bar right there on the beach, with tables in the water. A backpackers’ take on resort swim up bars.

Can you beat that?