Ancient Buddhist caves under threat

The Archaeological Survey of India has been struggling to control water damage to ancient Buddhist paintings in the Ajanta Caves in the state of Maharashtra.

The 29 caves in this UNESCO World Heritage Site are decorated with sculptures and paintings dating back as far as the second century B.C. They depict Buddhist tales and images of the Buddha and various Bodhisattvas.

The addition of new drainage systems has stopped some of the leakage of water through tiny cracks in the stone, but recent heavy rains have made the caves develop new leaks.

Archaeological Survey officials are monitoring the situation and trying to decide what to do next. Memories of a another Buddhist cave complex, the Bagh Caves, is making them tread lightly. Bad conservation methods at that site led to their almost complete destruction by seepage in the 1950s and 60s.

India is putting new emphasis on conservation as it tries to add more sites to the World Heritage List. Hopefully the folks at the Archaeological Survey of India will win the battle to preserve India’s heritage. I met some of their archaeologists the last couple of times I went to India and they’re a dedicated bunch, despite having to struggle with bureaucracy, insufficient funds, and the sheer vastness of their task.

Remote African nation saves rare giraffes from extinction

Niger doesn’t get in the news much. This landlocked Saharan nation doesn’t have much in the way of national resources, is listed by the UN as one of the world’s least developed countries, and yet it has a serious attitude towards conservation.

Niger is home to a unique subspecies of giraffe, pictured here. Poaching and desertification had reduced its numbers to only fifty individuals a decade ago, but then the people of Niger realized what they were about to lose, banned hunting, and launched a conservation program. Now thanks to these efforts the giraffes’ numbers have risen to two hundred. The Giraffe Conservation Foundation has been working with the Niger government and people to keep this positive trend going.

Strangely, the giraffes are congregating around the capital Niamey, where they can be seen wandering across farmers’ fields and drinking from troughs set out for cattle.

The government hopes the giraffes will promote tourism. While Niger is beneath most travelers’ radar, its very remoteness could be a draw for people interested in visiting traditional societies and seeing the Sahara’s harsh beauty. A night camping under the full moon in the Sahara is one of my favorite travel memories. A few giraffes walking across the silvered landscape would have made it even better.

The Spice Isle: Making the most of a cruise stopover in Grenada

It’s official — the cruise season in Grenada has begun. Actually, the first day of the season fell on a day when I was there recently. I might’ve missed the influx because I was across the island during most of their 12-hour stay, but I saw the big boat sail in during my breakfast, and sail away during my dinner.

Ideally, you’d want several days on the island where you could see waterfalls in the inland mountains, leatherback turtles off the northern beaches, and French and British influences in the capital town of St. George’s. But if you plan it right, you can see some amazing things in the short amount of time.

Get out on the water:
I know. You might be thinking that the last thing you want after being on a cruise ship is to get on another boat. But a Grenada Seafaris boat isn’t just any boat. When it powers at full-speed, it’s a fun wind-in-your-face ride. And it stops for snorkeling at the underwater sculpture park, designed by Jason de Caires Taylor. The 2.5-hour tour also includes off-coast stops up the west coast and discussions about conservation and local marine life.
Enjoy the market in St. George’s:
Meandering through the two-block stretch of market in St. George’s is my kind of Saturday morning. It’s actually on every day, but Saturday is the most bustling.

One portion focuses on products and catering to tourists, selling spices, T-shirts, and hats. The other portion sells produce, mostly to locals: yams, onions, okra, oranges. My favorite finds seem to be exotic items in abundance: a cart piled high with young coconuts (and a floorful of tops that were chopped off), and overwhelming bundles of plantains.

I’d recommend taking the time (and eschewing any shyness) to talk with the vendors — that’s how I learned how to ripen the cherry-sized governor plums (roll them around in your palm for half a minute). Get to the market early to avoid the crowds and heat.

Let an expert show you around:
After arriving in a new port, it can take a half-day to orient yourself. In the same amount of time, you can let a guide drive you to some of the must-see sights.

Several tour guides — including Mandoo Toursand Sunsation Tours — are available with great half-day itineraries that hit these hot spots:

Concord Falls — A medium-sized waterfall and pool that makes a good choice for a swim
Dougaldston Spice Estate — An historic plantation/museum where cocoa and spices are grown and processed
Grand Etang — A national park in the inland mountains of the island that’s home to a rain forest, hiking trails, and lake

Walk the island’s longest beach:
The two-mile white-sand Grand Anse Beach offers up plenty of opportunities to enjoy the waterfront, whether you’re dipping your toes in the Caribbean-blue water, sitting on the sidelines of a game of beach soccer, or watching the sun set just behind Quarantine Point. If you make your way down the beach, you can check out one of the hotels along the stretch or see the work of craft artisans at the vendor market.

It’s easy to get to from St. George’s. Just catch the #1 bus (small, private minibuses, really) in either direction for EC$2.50 (US$1).

Alison Brick traveled through Grenada on a trip sponsored by the Grenada Board of Tourism. That said, she could write about anything that struck her fancy. (And it just so happens that these are the things that struck her fancy.) You can read more from her The Spice Isle: Grenada series here.

Guaranteed green in Las Vegas

You may hope to find a lot of green in Las Vegas, and there’s one way to ensure you can at least say your stay involved a lot of green: stay –and play — in an eco-friendly hotel and casino.

Harrah’s Entertainment (parent company to Caesars Palace, Flamingo, Bally’s, Rio), has recently upped their green cache by implementing their trademarked “CodeGreen” — which involves energy reduction efforts, community outreach, and finding new ways to conserve water, including converting turf to xeriscape (what?) and encouraging guests to reuse towels and linens. They also removed 600,000 square feet of grass from the Rio Secco golf course, which saves a lot of watering (reportedly 23 million gallons), and upgraded their laundry facility to handle more volume with less water.

They’re also filtering their own water in their restaurants, and serving it in reusable glass bottles — but only if you request it. According to the Las Vegas Sun, “The authority estimates that as much as three gallons of water is saved with every glass of water it doesn’t wastefully deliver. To serve a glass of water, whether or not it’s consumed, requires cleaning the glass, delivery of the water and the water itself.”

So, if you’re looking to feel less guilty while out there indulging your guilty pleasures, head for Harrah’s — and don’t ask for that water if you’re not gonna drink it!

How green is your hotel?

Not too long ago, any hotel that had one of those “please reuse your towels” signs in the bathroom was considered “green“. But with new hotels upping the ante by adding more features that reduce waste and environmental impact, it takes a lot more than that to truly be green. Here are some of the greenest hotel features to look for in an eco-friendly hotel.

Sheet and Towel Reuse Programs
Literally, this is the least a hotel can do. Asking guests to reuse towels and only changing the linens every few days or between guests no doubt saves water (and money for the hotel) but those positive contributions can easily be negated through other actions. If this all the hotel does, it might just be more frugal than green.

Bulk Toiletry Dispensers
Every time you check into a hotel, you’re provided with small bottles of face wash, body wash, lotion, shampoo and conditioner. Even if you’ve only used a minuscule drop, those bottles are tossed out and restocked at the end of your stay. This happens every day, for every room sold, at hotels all around the world. That’s a lot of tiny bottles clogging up landfills. The greener option being implemented in many hotels is to install bulk dispensers (similar to soap dispensers in public restrooms) that dole out small amounts of shampoo, soap and lotion without the extra packaging.

Local and Organic Cooking
Hotel restaurant chefs that use local, fair-trade, sustainable and organic ingredients get a gold-star for for being green. Using local products means that the food travels less to get to the consumer, which in turn means less energy is used and less emissions are added to the air from the planes, trains and trucks that transport food. Organic ingredients are created without the chemicals and pesticides that can harm the surrounding eco-systems, fair-trade products support local farmers, and sustainable foodstuffs are made in a way that doesn’t deplete the natural resources of the area. Hotels that employ these practices in their restaurants are doing something that is not only healthy for their guests, but is healthy for the community and environment as well. The hotel gets even more bonus points if some or all of the produce comes from the hotel’s own garden.

Green Lighting Practices
Replacing fluorescent light bulbs with ENERGY STAR certified compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) means that a hotel will use 75% less energy per year. While hotel guests can do their part by turning off all unnecessary lights when not in the room, some hotels, like the LEED-certified Orchard Garden Hotel in San Francisco, make this easier by requiring the lights to be activated by key card. The key card, usually attached to the hotel key, must be inserted into a slot in order to turn the lights on. Since you’ll obviously need to take the key and lighting key card with you when you leave the room, there’s no way you can leave the lights on while you’re out.

Green Building Materials
The buildings at Sadie Cove Wilderness Lodge in Alaska are constructed from scavenged driftwood, the mattresses and bedding at the Asheville Green Cottage in South Carolina are made from all organic materials, and the walls at Los Manos B&B in Colorado are built of local adobe and the ceilings are insulated with cellulose from old newspapers. All of these properties are using green building practices that help conserve precious resources. Using recycled, organic, scavenged and eco-friendly (like low-emission paints) materials in the building process makes a hotel green from the very beginning.

Reducing Water Usage
The El Monte Sagrado in Taos, New Mexico filters its wastewater into pure drinking water, but there are plenty of other ways hotels can save water that are a littler easier to do. Many green hotels install low-flow regulators in showers and toilet tanks, and some even put in automatic-timer showers that shut off after a certain number of minutes. (You can restart them with the push of a button, but the ticking clock serves as a powerful reminder to make it quick). Hotels in temperate areas have chosen to do their landscaping with tropical plants, which require less water to maintain.

Alternative Power
Many hotels are looking to alternative sources of power; the Alpine House in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, gets all of its power from wind turbines. Look for hotels that boast the use of solar and wind power for even part of their energy usage. Hotels that use shade trees and crosswinds to cool rooms, rather than air conditioning, also increase their eco-friendly factor.

Recycling Programs
All the paper used in the Hotel Triton in San Francisco, from napkins in the restaurant to stationary in the guest rooms, is made from recycled materials. Of course, after it’s used, it still gets tossed out. I’ve never seen a recycling bin in any hotel I’ve stayed in, and I highly doubt that housekeeping takes the time to separate recyclables from trash. As a result, plenty of paper, aluminum and plastic that could be recycled ends up getting tossed. Any hotel that offers recycling bins in the room is one step up on the green ladder.

Green Cleaning Products
Using non-toxic, all-natural cleaning products helps reduce the amount of dangerous chemicals that get into the water system and cause pollution. Look for hotels like Denver’s Queen Anne Bed and Breakfast which uses only baking soda to its clean tubs, sinks and toilets.

Other Green Practices
When combined with some of these larger-scale practices, the smallest acts can help make a green hotel even more eco-friendly. All Fairmont hotels offer free parking for hybrid cars, the Vancouver Hilton offers an alternative fueling station, and many hotels will provide free bikes for guests to get around on. Stocking guest rooms with glass drinking cups instead of plastic and relying on natural lighting as much as possible in public areas are two additional practices that make a big difference.

I doubt there’s any hotel that employs every single one of these practices. But it’s a safe bet to say that the more of these strategies a hotel uses, the greener it is. No hotel will have zero impact on the environment, but choosing a hotel that take does its best to use environmentally-friendly policies will help make your travels greener.