Vietnam’s secret tradition of annual adultery

It may sound strange to us, but in the mountains of Vietnam, a yearly tryst with an ex-lover is a time-honored tradition.

Up near the Chinese border, in a small Vietnamese mountain village called Khau Vai, a celebration of love takes place two days per year (the 26th and 27th of the lunar calendar’s third month). Hundreds of people come from near and far to meet and, well, “have relations” with people other than their spouses.

Reuters found one couple who had come together for trysts with their ex lovers. “In the past, we were lovers, but we couldn’t get married because we were far apart,” said Lau Minh Pao of the woman he had come to meet. The ill-fated pair meets in Khau Vai every year and “we pour our hearts out about the time when we were in love.”

His wife was there to see an old flame of her own. Everyone wins?
%Poll-47193%

[via Reuters]
[Photo by Leo Chuoi via Flickr]

Traveling culinary competition makes for swine time

Two garish, heavily-tattooed girls approached me and my friend Adrienne, and pointed their weapons at us. “Pig liver mousse?” asked the blonde, aiming a whipped cream dispenser at me. Her brunette counterpart stood silently, wielding a squeeze bottle of barbecue sauce and a tray of meaty tidbits.

Welcome to the second annual Cochon 555, a lard-fueled, traveling circus of five chefs, five winemakers, and five pig carcasses. It’s actually a 10-city tour, with each destination’s chefs engaging in “friendly competition” for a great cause: “to promote and preserve heritage pigs, and breed diversity in local and national communities.”

Heritage livestock are domestic breeds that are threatened with extinction due to the demands of modern agriculture. In the words of the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, “Modern food production now favors the use of a few highly specialized breeds selected for maximum output in a controlled environment.”While some may find it ironic and hypocritical to eat, glorify, and promote animals in the name of saving them, you’re entitled to your opinion. For the rest of you, not only do heritage breeds help to preserve genetic diversity, but they also taste better. Many heritage breeds possess a “true” flavor inherent to the animal, i.e., pork tastes…more porky. Heritage breeders in general also have an emphasis on animal welfare, sustainable farming and animal husbandry practices, and regionality, as they’re generally small, family outfits. It’s hard to argue with those ethics if bacon makes you salivate.

I attended Seattle’s Cochon 555 on May 23rd to support the cause, as well as watch local chefs like John Sundstrom (Lark), and Tamara Murphy (Brasa) duke it out. Each competitor is chosen based on their support of local food sourcing and commitment to sustainability; the pigs are sourced from ranches dedicated to preserving heritage breeds. While the chefs prepare tasting plates (they’re allowed free rein on preparation method) for the guests, local family winemakers keep the grape flowing. Guests help select the winning chef by voting for their favorite, along with a panel of 20 judges. The victor of each destination is crowned “Prince or Princess of Porc,” and moves on to compete in the Grand Cochon finale, to be held June 20 at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen.

Cochon 555 also includes a VIP “Meat & Greet” with local foods and producers, a “Swine & Spirits” mixology showcase, and- my favorite- a demonstration breakdown of a whole pig carcass. San Francisco’s Ryan Farr of 4505 Meats (and producer of the best damn chicharrones on earth) made a guest appearance in Seattle, and proceeded to dismantle a 140-pound pig before an awestruck audience. The results were raffled off, leaving each lucky winner clutching a package of pork to their chest.

Adrienne and I wandered around, sampling everything from tortellini with pig brains in a pork dashi, to apple-bacon ice cream, and red velvet cupcakes with whipped (sweetened) lard frosting. Not everything was good, mind you, and I can live a full life without eating the lard-shortbread version of a Snickers bar ever again, but chef Chester Gerl’s (Matt’s in the Market) cochinita pibil, a Yucatecan-style preparation made from a Red Wattle pig from Lazy S Farm in Kansas , was outstanding. I also thorougly enjoyed the mini “ultimate BLT” of chef Adam Stevenson’s (Earth & Ocean) cocoa-cured bacon, bologna, and smoked coppa, with tomato jam.

While the $125 price tag ($175 for VIP pass) is too steep- at least, at the Seattle event, where the food and drink ran out before the sun even began to set, it’s for an important cause. Even if you don’t eat meat, there’s a dire need for more humane livestock management, and stricter regulation on livestock production, waste management, and processing. As we used to say at the meat shop I once worked at, “Praise the Lard!”

Somaliland: the next big adventure travel destination?

Can a country that doesn’t officially exist develop a tourism industry? Some entrepreneurs in Somaliland think so.

Abdi Abdi, owner of the Oriental Hotel in Hargeisa, already runs a tour company. Other hotel owners are following suit and experimenting with special tours. Abdi Abdi offers home stays with nomad families. Hassan Ahmed Hussein, owner of the Hadhwanaag Hotel and Restaurant, is considering offering camel tours and boating trips. Both want to put Somaliland on the map for adventure travel.

Somaliland certainly has some strong points. The prehistoric painted caves of Laas Geel are the star attraction. They’re as beautiful as the more famous caves of Lascaux in France and Altamira in Spain, with the added bonus that they’re actually open to the public. I’ve traveled to thirty countries, and worked as an archaeologist in four, and Laas Geel is perhaps the most impressive archaeological site I’ve ever seen. It certainly ranks in the top five, along with the Pyramids of Giza, Karnak, Machu Picchu, and Avebury.

Not only are the paintings in a wonderful state of preservation, but the desolate landscape, with only one or two nomad’s shelters within view, adds to the atmosphere. In my opinion Laas Geel should not be developed, simply guarded and left in its natural state. The Somaliland government has already taken steps to protect the site and should leave well enough alone. Too many archaeological treasures have lost their atmosphere through “improvements” such as visitor’s centers and parking lots.

As shown on the site Somali Heritage, there are plenty of other ancient remains that could become tourist attractions once they’ve been properly studied. There are medieval forts and settlements, colonial remains from Ottoman and British times, and more painted caves like those at Laas Geel.Beyond history, there’s the capital Hargeisa and its camel market, as well as incredible scuba diving in Berbera. At the moment, though, lack of international recognition and the common confusion between Somaliland and Somalia will keep many potential visitors from ever considering Somaliland. Plus this is still a volatile region. Foreigners are advised to have a bodyguard when venturing outside the capital, and a few days ago a border skirmish with Ethiopia left 13 dead. Then there’s the on-again, off-again border dispute with neighboring Puntland.

These problems will keep most people away, but will attract others. Somaliland has to be careful not to attract the wrong kind of tourist, thrill seekers enchanted by the guns and the burnt-out tanks and the legal drugs. I’ve met way too many of these people on the road, and they tend to leave a bad reputation in their wake. The best part of traveling in Somaliland is the Somalis themselves. They’re unaccustomed to tourists and thus their warmth and hospitality have been untarnished by bad interactions with obnoxious foreigners. This could so easily change.

Take the example of Egypt, which has been a tourist destination since the days of Heroditus. Visitors to any of the great sites (and they’re so awesome they truly must be seen) will be constantly harassed, hurried, propositioned, screamed at for tips, and hustled. This leaves many visitors with the impression that Egyptians are all a bunch of hucksters who are only interested in quick cash.

Nothing could be further from the truth. Once a visitor breaks through the vile crust of touts, he’ll find the Egyptians warm, welcoming, funny, and great company. The images of the Pyramids and the Valley of the Kings are etched forever in my mind, but my fondest memories of Egypt are sitting on the banks of the Nile in the small town of Minya chatting with some students, and sipping coffee in backstreet cafes in Cairo. A foreign visitor to Egypt should take time to meet the Egyptians. This helps the reputation of both countries.

At the moment Somali people are wide open. It’s up to every foreign visitor and the Somalis themselves to keep the communication more about exchanging goodwill and knowledge than exchanging money for thrills.

In the short term Somaliland will remain an adventurous side trip from Ethiopia, but as the infrastructure improves and more people learn about its attractions, the nation will get more visitors. As a travel writer I have to wonder about my own role in all of this. My series on Somaliland has been one of the first, if not the first, on a major travel website. I’m helping to set the ball rolling. When I visit Somaliland again in a few years time, or perhaps even next year since I’m anxious to get back to Harar, will I see a change? And will it be for the better or for the worse?

Don’t miss the rest of my series on travel in Somaliland.

GadlingTV’s Travel Talk 013: Street food around the world & Portland’s food carts!


GadlingTV’s Travel Talk, episode 13 – Click above to watch video after the jump
We’re back & ready to hit the streets! This week we’ll take you on a tour of Portland’s legendary food cart scene and show you what it takes to make some of the most delicious food in the country out of kitchens the size of a tow trailer.

We’ll discuss some of the wildest street food around the world & give you a tip that could save your life (or at least a few evenings curled up in pain).

Don’t forget to check back on Friday for another new episode of Travel Talk for a feature on the rest of Portland’s finest and quirkiest destinations!

If you have any questions or comments about Travel Talk, you can email us at talk AT gadling DOT com.

Subscribe via iTunes:
[iTunes] Subscribe to the Show directly in iTunes (M4V).
[RSS M4V] Add the Travel Talk feed (M4V) to your RSS aggregator and have it delivered automatically.

Links
Al Jazeera’s series on street food around the world!
Stay safe! Take Cipro with you before trying any of that outrageous food.
Want to learn more about Portland’s food cart scene? Look no further.

Our favorite carts in Portland? Check out Cool Harry’s Yogurt, Garden State, & the Big Egg.

Contest:
We’re still giving away two free tickets on Virgin America!

To enter, join our Facebook group and send us an email, telling us 1) where you would go 2) what you would do there 3) who you would take.

At the end of May, one lucky winner will be randomly selected from our inbox. So, get your friends to submit to increase your chances!!


Hosts: Stephen Greenwood, Aaron Murphy-Crews, Drew Mylrea
Special Guests: The gracious hosts & talented cooks of Portland’s food carts!


Produced, Edited, and Directed by: Stephen Greenwood, Aaron Murphy-Crews, Drew Mylrea

All music used in partnership with nonstopmusic.com

Ask Gadling: Keeping your romance alive from the road

This week’s question comes from Natasha in West Hollywood, who travels frequently for work.

I have a personal assistant job that requires me to travel about two-three weekends out of every month. I like the travel, but it’s taking a toll on my relationship with my boyfriend. I know this sounds lame, but if you travel all the time, how are you supposed to have a life? I don’t want to/can’t quit my job for financial reasons. Am I being selfish? He gets really jealous and I don’t blame him, he doesn’t get to go out on the weekends like a normal couple. Should I just accept being alone until I can cut down?

Gadling: This is a question we totally understand at Gadling, as many of us travel all the time, too. It doesn’t mean we are bad people or any less dedicated to our significant others; it’s just our job — and one we happen to love. Here’s my advice, and though I’ll address this to Natasha, it works for men, too:

1. Communicate.

You will fight about the travel if you don’t talk about it. Hash it out in person. Listen to how he feels, tell him how you feel, and find a place where you and he can both accept the situation. If you have to/want to travel and he doesn’t make peace with it, you’re never going to be a happy couple. Period. It’s also a good idea to set boundaries and/or routines, like how many calls per day (or per week) is appropriate. If the two of you agree, or at least settle on a compromise and both hold up your end of the bargain, your relationship should be able to withstand time apart.

View more Ask Gadling: Travel Advice from an Expert or send your question to ask [at] gadling [dot] com.

2. Lead by example.

What I mean by this, first and foremost, is don’t cheat. It’s good that you didn’t hint at suspicion that he may be playing around with Jesse James’ ex-girlfriends while you’re gone. Trust is really important in a travel-heavy relationship, which in some ways is like a long-distance relationship. What you surely know by now is that there are temptations out there in strange lands, and if you can’t resist, you can’t and shouldn’t expect him to. Assuming that you’re not cheating, follow the golden rule: treat others as you wish to be treated yourself. Miss him, call him from time to time, tell him what you’re up to so he doesn’t worry; just try not to make it sound like too much fun. Let him know that he can do the same; that you’re interested in what he’s doing, too.

3. Make your time at home special.

When you travel a lot, it’s easy to collapse when you get home and only wear sweats for a week. Resist. Make an effort when you’re home. Go out together, do things he likes to do, and do things you like to do, too. Make sure you are always finding ways of getting to know each other better — and not becoming strangers.

4. Gifts.

A postcard from afar lets him know you’re thinking of him. A gift is even better; it makes your arrival at home more fun. It doesn’t have to be anything expensive — just a weird thing from the drugstore or grocery store that you can’t get at home is a fun surprise.

5. Find intimacy.

There are endless lists of ways you can um, “be intimate” with your loved ones online. If that’s not your thing, something like a naughty one-line email or teasing photo can go a long way toward keeping the spark alive. If that still sounds too racy for your tastes, consider a different kind of intimacy: a hand-written, heartfelt love letter is a rare and beautiful thing in this day and age.

6. Be realistic.

If every time you come home you’re having the same fight, if you’re blaming your problems on the travel, if you’re cheating and lying, if you don’t actually care what he’s doing and wish he’d stop calling (and he’s only calling as much as you agreed was okay), you’re doing it wrong. See #1. There is a certain comfort and safety in having someone at home waiting for you. Don’t let that be the reason you stay together, it’s not fair to you — and it’s really not fair to him.