Big in Japan: A foodie’s guide to the far north

All this month, Big in Japan is on the road in Hokkaid?, Japan’s northernmost island. Join us as we take a look at the rugged wilderness, world-class skiing and remote hot springs that make this winter wonderland so justifiably famous…

The island of Hokkaid? (??????, literally North Sea Circuit) is certainly a world apart from mainland Japan. Of course, if you happen to need a bit of convincing, just look at the menu!

Eating out in Japan is always a treat, though Hokkaid? is something of a paradise for aspiring gourmands. On that note, here is a quick (and delicious) foodie’s guide to the far north.

Be sure to try the following:

A traditional dish of the Ainu, Japan’s northerly indigenous population, ruibe (?????????) is a salmon that has been left out in snow, frozen solid, sliced up sashimi style, and served with the highest available grade of soy sauce.

While it’s something akin to a fish popsicle, true chefs will only slice this delicacy with an abalone shell in fear of contaminating the flesh with a metallic taste.

Getting hungry? The list continues…

The island of Hokkaidō can experience Siberian chills, which means that locals are fond of winter-warming foods such as soups, stews and hotpots.

One of the most delicious items on the menu is ishikari-nabe (石狩鍋), a big stone pot full of chunked salmon, tofu and miso, as well as seasonal vegetables that range from potatoes and cabbage to kelp and wild leeks.

With that said, we’re partial to that heavenly concoction that is ramen (ラーメン), nature’s most perfect dish. In Hokkaidō’s capital of Sapporo, you can dig into a steamy bowl of miso-based soup noodles with all the fixings.

Since dairy cows run rampant on the island, Sapporoites are keen on garnishing their ramen with slices of butter and fresh cream. Sweet corn also goes surprisingly well with dairy-based ramen, as do steamed crab legs from Hokkaidō’s icy seas.

However, no mention of Sapporo would be complete without paying tribute to Sapporo beer (札幌ビール), that liquid gold that warms the body even as the mercury drops.

Even if you’ve tried the bottled brew while Stateside, a frothy pint straight from the source is a whole different breed of beer!

And while we’re on the subject of beer, Hokkaidō offers an extremely manly accompaniment to the drink, namely jingisu-kan (ジンギスカン).

Inspired by Ghengis Khan, everybody’s favorite Mongol warlord, jingisu-kan consists of freshly flayed strips of spring lamb that are slow roasted over hot coals, and served with onions, peppers and copious amounts of lager.

Now there’s proof positive that even barbarians are foodies at heart (^_^)

Want to learn more about Hokkaidō? Sure you do!

Tune in all this month as Big in Japan heads north and blogs from the road.

** All images courtesy of the Wikimedia Commons Project **

The art of reticketing flights

One of the world’s great mysteries is when exactly the best time is to buy airplane tickets. You want to wait just long enough so that the price hits its lowest point — but you can’t wait too long, or else it’ll skyrocket again. Is it four weeks out? Four months?

You can never know. Even with the help of tools like Farecast, Kayak and Farecompare, there is always the risk that two days after you purchase your family trip to Europe, the price of your itinerary is going to plummet.

What most people don’t know, however, is that many tickets can be repriced. In the same way that you can take a television back to Best Buy if you find out it went on sale the day after and get the difference, you can also exchange tickets weeks after you book them.

Airlines, of course, are a little more criminal stingy about the process. Almost all of them charge a rebooking fee that can vary between $50 – $150 dollars. But on a high priced ticket, that can be a fraction of a price fluctuation.

The key is to keep an eye on your ticket price, even after you purchase it. If you see your exact same itinerary drop significantly in cost, call the airline up and ask to refare or rebook the ticket. They’ll dig around to see if it’s worth your time after levying the rebook fee and if you’re lucky, they’ll issue a voucher for the difference in price.

Just last week, for example, I noticed that a huge fare sale to Salt Lake City affected the ticket price for a future itinerary that I have into Reno. Calling up Delta Airlines, I got them to issue me a $54 e-cert for use in future travel. Sure, it’s not cash in hand, but I can definitely use the voucher.

What this stragety is particularly good for is repricing business travel. Many travel agents will blindly book a ticket on a preferred airline at high cost. When you, the passenger, check back in and reprice the ticket later, however, the reward is yours.

Big in Japan: Gadling goes to Hokkaido

All this month, we’re on the road in Hokkaid?, Japan’s northernmost island. Join us as we take a look at the rugged wilderness, world-class skiing and remote hot springs that make this winter wonderland so justifiably famous…

Let’s start off with a quick geography lesson, shall we?

Hokkaid? (??????, literally North Sea Circuit) is Japan’s second largest and northernmost island. If you’re not Japanese, you might have trouble identifying this landmass, though you’ve most certainly heard of its most famous export.

Indeed, Hokkaid?’s capital is the production center for the delicious amber nectar that is Sapporo beer, though the island offers much, much more than mere alcoholic delights.

First settled by the Ainu, Japan’s northerly indigenous population, Hokkaid? has been strongly influenced by Russia, Europe, America and – of course – Japanese mainlanders. Today, the island is thoroughly integrated into the modern nation, though it’s largely unlike anything you might expect to find in places like Tokyo and Kyoto.

So, without further adieu, let’s kick off our special series by taking a closer look at Japan’s winter wonderland.

In the minds of the Japanese, the island of Hokkaidō is a rough and rugged frontier that is somewhat equivalent to Alaska or the Yukon.

Surrounded by the frigid waters of the Sea of Japan, the Sea of Okhotsk, and the northern stretches of the Pacific Ocean, Hokkaidō experiences mild summers and Siberian winters.

The centre of the island is also characterized by soaring mountains and volcanic peaks, which happen to harbor some of the world’s best skiing.

While few Americans would mention Japan and skiing in the same sentence, Hokkaidō is one of the most popular overseas destinations for winter-sports lovers from Australia and New Zealand.

The action is firmly centered on the resort of Niseko, which is regarded by skiiers and snowboarders as something of a powder heaven.

For fans of apres-ski culture, you can quite literally fling yourself down the slopes, strip down to your birthday suit, and soak the night away in a natural hot spring while cradling a bottle of sake. Bliss!

Not surprisingly, the city of Sapporo hosted the 1972 Winter Olympics, and continues to host the annual Snow Festival every February. Ice bars might be the latest rage in North American cities, but where else in the world can you see a huge and hulking ice sculpture of Hello Kitty?

Sure, it’s cold, but the island specializes in winter-warming cuisine, such as the famous Sapporo ramen, a hearty dish of miso-based soup noodles that is served up with fresh butter and sweet corn.

And, if you start to lose sensation in your fingers, you can always down a pint or two of Sapporo beer, which should help get your blood circulating.

Want to learn more about Hokkaidō? Sure you do!

Tune in all this month as Big in Japan heads north and blogs from the road.

** All images courtesy of the Wikimedia Commons Project **

Travel Read: Trail of Feathers, Searching for Philip True

“‘If I’m not back in 10 days, come looking for me,” he said, then waved goodbye through the open window as the taxi disappeared from view up the steep, winding street.

No one who knew True ever saw him alive again.”

–from Trail of Feathers, searching for Philip True.

The description of what happened to Philip True in Mexico intrigued me. It was written on the inside flap of the jacket cover of Trail of Feathers. True, a journalist, was brutally murdered in Mexico in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains ten years ago. My uncle, also a writer, was shot to death in Mexico more than thirty years ago. Both of them were at the wrong place at the wrong time.

True’s account is told by Robert Rivard, his former editor at the San Antonio Express. After finding out about True’s death, Rivard set out for Mexico to find out what happened and locate True’s body. Rivard’s journey continued long after True was found buried in a shallow grave in a 150-mile canyon, deep in Huichol Indian territory.

When he was murdered, True was chasing a story and was traveling alone, something he did frequently. Rivard was drawn to find out more about what elements in True’s life pushed him towards such dangerous, solo travel. As he uncovered True’s mysteries, Rivard discovered more about himself–another mark of a traveler’s tale. Aren’t we all linked somehow?

As I read Rivard’s account of True’s life and death, as well as, what pulled Rivard in the direction of this book, I found a traveler’s story that sounds similar to the stories of many people I have met. For True, travel was a way to be his best self. An abusive, tumultuous upbringing gave him the umph to hit the road later in life. Becoming a journalist provided him the focus that enabled him to find peace and eventually marry. His wife was pregnant when he was killed.

Like any traveler who has distant horizons in his or her blood, settled or not, one is never quite settled. That’s the reason True journeyed into those mountains in December of 1998.

What happened to True is not exactly a warning, but it is a reminder that there are cultural elements that can trip up the most seasoned travelers. It doesn’t matter the size of a person’s heart or the pureness of intentions.

Along with delving into those elements of True’s life that helped make him a traveler, Rivard’s book is an intriguing look at what happens when a person is killed in another country and what needs to happen in order for justice to be served. In True’s case, and in the case of my uncle, the people from both countries, including the U.S. government and the Mexican government became involved.

If it wasn’t for Carl Perkins, who was a senator from Kentucky at the time of my uncle’s death, my uncle would have been buried in Mexico and we may not have found what happened in that ambush where he was shot five times.

Rivard’s book is an alluring read that drew me into its nuances. It’s a chance to find out an insider’s tale and see how a crime is solved, as well as, journey into a traveler’s soul.

Philip True was killed December 6, 1998, 10 years ago tomorrow.

* the photo is of Copper Canyon, not the same place where True was killed, but in the Sierra Madre mountains.

Galley Gossip: Be kind to your fellow passengers. Yes, that does include the ones who are overweight!

What I’ve learned about the world working at 35,000 feet is that you can’t please everyone, no matter how hard you try. Another thing I’ve learned is regardless of where people come from or where they are sitting on the airplane, most of them have one thing in common – lack of empathy for their fellow passengers. It seems as if a passenger is not experiencing (or has experienced) something first hand, they have little regard for what other passengers may be experiencing.

Take for instance the last row. It never fails, whenever I’m standing at the back of the airplane watching passengers board, I’ll notice a group of people getting closer and closer to me as they walk down the aisle squinting at the seat numbers on the armrests, and as they get closer and closer I can see the look of horror grow on their face as they realize just how close to the back of the aircraft their seats really are.

“We’re sitting in the last row! (Insert curse word here!)” That’s what I’ll usually hear as they sling their items into the empty overhead bin and slam the mother shut.

Hey, it’s not my fault! Anyways, someone has to sit there, why not you? I mean if it’s not you, who should it be? You do know that people are sitting there when you’re not there, right?

Passengers are always complaining about the bad attitudes of flight attendants, but what I’m sick and tired of are passengers with the same bad attitude. I’m not talking about the way they treat me, I’m talking about the way they treat each other! It’s gotten out of hand. For example, a lot has been written about overweight passengers on the airplane recently and what I find interesting are the comments people have made to these posts. They’re actually quite shocking. Seriously, what is it about the airplane that seems to bring out the worst in people?

One large passenger who is the inspiration behind this post wrote…

Hello,

I am one of those large passengers. I fly to Europe more than I fly on domestic flights. I fly in coach, usually. I have learned little lessons to try to fly more easily. I fly on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, when there will be a larger chance of there being at least one empty seat in coach. Anytime that I HAVE to go to Las Vegas, I purchase two tickets.

The flight attendants have always been very helpful. I have only had one awful experience. On a flight from Houston to Albuquerque, I was in the window seat up front and the person beside me insisted on sit with my right hip up. I did not fit. I was in pain for a couple of hours. I had a terrible, huge bruise on that hip by that evening. Yes, I know, many people look at me as just an “obese person,” but I am a kind, caring, intelligent (Masters Degree) person and I have feelings, too.

The best service and care I have ever received is with Lufthansa. As usual, I flew either a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday. At the gate, the gate attendant would, without any request from me, block out three available seats. I know that is extremely unusual, but trust me, it was extremely appreciated.

On a flight from Cancun to Houston, the male supervisor at check in took my boarding pass from me. He could not explain what he was doing because he did not speak English and I did not speak Spanish. He fixed and gave me another boarding pass with a flourish and a big smile. I smiled back, not knowing what had just happened. When I
boarded, I found that I was sitting in first class. To you sir, whoever and where ever you are, GRACIAS, so very much.
Random acts of kindness are greatly appreciated.

I hope that the normal sized or thin people who see a person like me will remember that we have feelings. If I am in a situation where I am intruding on another person’s space, I do feel embarrassed and I apologize. I cannot always afford to purchase two tickets. I try to drive rather than fly, if at all possible.

Jeannie

Can you imagine being the person who walks down the aisle that everyone is wishing not to sit next to? As they’re walking down the aisle, some of you are not even quiet about it! While I know it’s not comfortable traveling beside an overweight person, it’s not right to bash and judge them, just like it’s not right for me, your flight attendant, to bash and judge you in the galley with my fellow coworkers based on the way you travel. Everyone deserves a little kindness. Even on the airplane.

And now I’d like to leave you with a few kind words from Frank and Bob, two people I hope to find myself working with on an airplane one day soon…

Jeannie.

I realized many years ago that my uniform didn’t make me “human” to many passengers. And, at times have been treated as if I didn’t have feelings/emotions either. You are NOT the problem. A 17 inch seat can not accommodate a lot of passengers, yet that is what the airline sells to you, is the problem. First and business fares are astronomical. That’s not the solution. As I walk down the aisle and see passenger’s of size, I silently think to myself………..how hard it is for you to sit there so uncomfortable. You may be large, Jeannie, but you also have a BIG HEART. I’ll take
that any day, over the passenger with the inflated sense of self importance.

Frank,

***

Frank,

Thank you so much, Frank. You know, I have never treated flight attendants as though they have no feelings. I suppose that is because any flight attendants I have ever come into contact with have always been very pleasant, have smiled and have taken the time to say hello, have a good flight, etc. I would say that 99% are very thoughtful and proactive in being helpful to me (like getting the seat belt extender for me before I can even ask). As far as the issue of a person’s weight, the fact is people aren’t overweight because they want to be. Obesity isn’t a decision one makes for ones self. There are a lot of circumstances that contribute to a person being overweight or obese. This common idea that overweight or obese people simply don’t take care of themselves and constantly eat Burger King for dinner is absurd and proves ignorance in so many of us.

Jeannie

***

Jeannie & Frank,

In this day and age, when the average person needs or wants to get from point A to point B and there is great distance involved, we are going to have to stuff ourselves into the big metal tube with a lot of other people who are in the same situation. It is going to entail unusual closeness and maybe crying infants. I know that it is only going to be for a few hours and I try to make the best of it. It is much easier to do when flight attendants like you are on duty, Frank.

Bob, the singing pilot.