Ecuador: Your guide to the “new Costa Rica”

by Aaron Hotfelder on

With the Galápagos Islands, Pacific beaches, Andes Mountains, and Amazonian jungle, Ecuador is a little country that packs a big punch. And travelers, always on the look-out for the hot new destination, are starting to flock there in droves. One backpacker has even dubbed the small South American country the “new Costa Rica.” Okay, that was me.

Anyway, here’s a quick-and-dirty rundown of the highlights and lowlights of Ecuador’s three regions– East, Central and West.

East

To hear the reputation of the city of Guayaquil, you’d think that calling it a cesspool of crap would be insulting to all those plucky little bacteria out there who survive on human excrement. The truth is that, despite Guayaquil’s dismal reputation, things are rapidly improving, and lots of fun can be had in this port city of three million. There’s a casino downtown if that’s your thing, and the Malecón area on the riverfront is brand new and always packed with people. Head to the Urdesa district for some great restaurants and to the Kennedy Center for vibrant nightlife. For sightseeing, try the hilltop neighborhood known as Las Peñas, where you’ll see a colorful slice of colonial Guayaquil.

The best-slash-only beach I went to in Ecuador was in Montañita, which is about two hours north of Guayaquil. The town is really chilled out and uber-friendly to backpackers, with plenty of places to eat and sleep (and smoke funny-looking cigarettes).

Shameless plug: A friend with whom I visited Montañita moved back there recently and opened a watering hole called Nuestrobar. Mention my name there and receive 50% off. (Warning: This deal may come as news to the owner.)

%Gallery-18247%

Central

Starting from the top, Quito, the capital, is a must-see destination. Quito’s Old Town is a refined, dignified queen, full of majesty and grace. Explore her curves, and take her picture. Go ahead, she likes it. The New Town (especially the Mariscal area) is an ageless whore, a seductress, a vixen. She’ll do anything for a buck, and she’ll give you the best nights of your life.

There are a million-and-one places to go out in the Mariscal, but take taxis at night because the area can be a little dodgy. The Secret Garden hostel in the Old Town is highly recommended for its spectacular balcony view and lively backpacker atmosphere. It’s the best budget place to stay in Quito by a lot. Make a reservation, as it’s endorsed by Lonely Planet and therefore often packed.

Visit the cable cars known as the Telefériqo for a panoramic look at the city. Go early, as heavy fog tends to block the gorgeous view any time past noon.

For a challenging hike just a few hours from Quito, hire a guide and head to the world’s tallest active volcano, Mt. Cotopaxi. At 19,347 feet, the climb will kick your ass unless you’re in good shape and have spent time acclimatizing to the altitude. Still, it’s possible to have a good time even if you prefer donuts to dumbells, and you don’t make it all the way to the top. (I know from experience.)

Heading south from Quito, spend some time in the town of Baños, so named because of the existence of several thermal baths created by the nearby Tungurahua Volcano. Baños is where I stayed for about six weeks, so I might be biased, but it was just about the best Ecuador has to offer. It’s nestled beautifully in the mountains, there is tons to do– mountain biking, rafting, hiking, soaking in thermal baths, bungee-jumping off bridges, drinking, dancing with girls who are probably too young.

If you go, I recommend staying at Plantas y Blanco and eating at Casa Hood (great used book selection), and Cafe Hood. And yes, there are two different restaurants with the word “Hood” in the name– it’s a long story.

Taking the bus south from Baños, you’ll come to the beautiful old colonial city of Cuenca. It’s where I met the most beautiful girl in Ecuador, and for that reason, it will always hold a spot near and dear to me.

In the southernmost region of the country, you’ll find the small gringo-hippie-retiree town of Vilcabamba. If you enjoy talking about your chi and saying things like, “The energy in this room just doesn’t feel right,” this is the place for you. Head to the Madre Tierra spa/hotel for the full effect.

West

The Amazonian jungle. I went for about a week, and it was certainly a experience I’ll never forget. It costs about $40 a day to hire a guide, which you must do. Going into the jungle is just like it sounds– lots of fascinating plants and animals, but lacking in creature comforts such as air conditioning, WiFi, and buildings with doors. Go if the preceding sounds appealing.

Note: When your jungle guide introduces you to a shaman who offers you a psychoactive tea called ayahuasca, politely refuse– that is, unless you’re looking to writhe in agony for hours while suffering from temporary psychosis and acute diarrhea. Or so I’ve heard.

Final Thoughts

If you have extra money, go to the Galápagos Islands. It’s about the one thing in Ecuador I didn’t do, but wished I had. It’ll cost US$1000 to go for a week, but it’s cheaper if you fly to the islands and explore on your own rather than joining a pre-arranged tour.

For more info, consider picking up an Ecuador guidebook or make your own Frankenguide.

Finally, and most importantly, ignore most of the advice above and just find your own places to go and do your own things. Traveling is about making it up as you go along. Somehow things always work out, no matter where you go or what you do.

Got questions? I never get tired of talking about Ecuador, so leave it in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer it. Happy travels!

The “Other Galapagos” Island

by Iva Skoch on

Two-hundred-and-fifty miles off the coast of Yemen, in the Indian Ocean, in an area pointed at by the Horn of Africa, is a rugged island called Socotra.

The number 250 has special significance in another respect: the island has been geologically separated from the mainland for 250 million years. This isolation means that there are over 600 species of plants and animals there that exist nowhere else on earth (a feat beaten only by the Galapagos and Hawaii).

It also means that human development has been slow: roughly the size of Long Island, and with a population of only 40,000, the first paved roads were built there only within the last few years. And don’t expect a ton of new development: 70% of the island has been designated as national parkland. Be sure to plan your trip well in advance, and plan to stay awhile: there are only two flights in and out per week.

Pictures from the island blew me away: dragon’s blood trees (like the one pictured from Harf Zimmermann), frankincense trees on lonely vistas, desert roses, rocky shorelines. (BTW, be sure to check out his other awesome pics on his Web site and the NYT’s piece, and, of course, on Flickr.)

Book inscriptions inspire travel, and make great souvenirs

by Kelly Amabile on

I walked into the wrong bookstore in Granada, Spain last February, but I’m so glad I did. I was looking for an English-language bookstore on Calle Gracia called Metro, but instead I wound up at a different shop just a few doors down. Libreria Praga shelves mostly Spanish titles, but has a small section of used English-language books. A spine with Simon Winchester’s name caught my eye, and I was soon the owner of a used copy of The Professor and the Madman. This story about the making of the Oxford English Dictionary seemed like something I’d enjoy (which I did when I read it a few months later) but I bought the book simply because of the fascinating inscription I found written in blue ink on the title page:

August 18, 2003: For darling Maggie on her one hundred and fifty-sixth birthday from him who unabashedly adores her – U. David.

Actually, there is another short word scribbled before “U. David”, probably a first name or initial, but I can’t quite make it out. But what an interesting discovery, huh? Was it an inside joke between old friends? Or did someone really live for as many years as Hong Kong was under British rule? Highly unlikely. There is surely a backstory, and one that most likely will remain untold. But for a book-lovin’ traveler, this is one of the best souvenirs around.

If you’ve come across interesting inscriptions, consider submitting them to The Book Inscription Project, a neat online effort to collect special book messages found by readers worldwide. Two recently posted travel-inspired inscriptions on the site reminded me that I have to submit my Granada discovery. Take a look at these: First, a short note to a voyager about finding his special island, inside a copy of Vonnegut’s Galapagos. Second, a Christmas gift for a nomad — a copy of On the Road, the only book that moves as incessantly as he does.

Books move and messages get carried with them, from one reader to the next. What travel treasures have you found (or left for others) inside the front cover of a book?

Kayaking the Galapagos

by Erik Olsen on

It’s one of hose paddling trips I’ve ALWAYS wanted to take. There are your supreme paddling spots and then there are the supreme among the supreme and the Galapagos falls into this latter category. This piece by Tim Farmer
first appeared in the December 2006 issue of Canoe & Kayak, and in it, Herr Farmer paddles this amazing island chain where Darwin first glimpsed the flora and fauna that would lead hm (eventually…that is) to think up the theory of Natural Selection. But the paddling there is said to be some of the finest in the world, and a quick read of this article explains why.

Pristine waters, ample wildlife, a respectable climate all many many miles away from any pollution addled civilization. The islands are a volcanic archipelago composed of some 13 major islands and a handful of smaller islets. They are scattered over 28,000 square miles of the Pacific Ocean, roughly 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, so yes, you are about as far away from things as yo can get. Short, I suppose of paddling Easter Island off Chile, the world’s most remote island…which would also be cool to paddle, albeit more boring in a way since there is not nearly the same amount of wildlife there. We’re talking, of course, about iguanas, tortoises ,dolphins etc. There are many restrictions to paddling and diving around the Galapagos, but if you go with a local outfit, they can help you with them.

Man, hard to come off of a trip to Detroit and see this kind of article.