Weekly Euro watch: we’re still making ground


I just can’t help but feel giddy about all of the progress that the Dollar has been making against the Euro over the past month. Sure, this is the direct effect of a near worldwide financial meltdown, banks are failing left and right and Iceland was briefly for sale on Ebay. But the slim silver lining to the whole debacle is that we, as Americans, now have more buying power overseas.

As of this morning, you can now officially buy a Euro for a $1.25, down from nearly $1.50 in September. That means that if you’ve got some late fall (say, Thanksgiving) travel to the EU lined up, it just got 17% less expensive.

In case you’re wondering, Iceland’s Krona started trading again a couple of weeks back after the government effectively froze trading for a little while to let the market stabilize. One now earns 126 Krona / Dollar instead of the 76 from earlier this summer.

So what’s up with Iceland’s ‘national bankruptcy’? A possible explanation

Hidden far away in the North Atlantic, Iceland may seem like one of the last outposts for globalization to reach. One economist stressed that a century ago, Iceland was essentially Ghana in terms of economic development. And even as late as the 1970s, Iceland still remained one of the poorest countries in Western Europe, with a major portion of its economy reliant on fishing. Yet today, Iceland is, according to the United Nations Human Development Index, the most developed country in the world, with one of the highest rates of life expectancy, literacy, and per capita GDP.

So how has Iceland gotten where it is today and what exactly went wrong in the last month?

The answer to both is financial globalization. The very forces of global integration, which led to deregulation of the banking sector and creation of a national stock exchange, nearly pushed this distinctly first-world country a few weeks ago into “national bankruptcy,” in the words of Prime Minister Geir Haarde.

What’s really scary is that the on-going Icelandic crisis has been in large parts an external crisis of confidence. Its three major banks were quite well-behaved, with little exposure to the “toxic” subprime loans we’ve all heard so much about. But ultimately foreign lenders to Iceland’s banks did not see the government as a credible lender of last resort. In other words, although the banks were too big to fail, they were also too big to bail (out).
On many fronts, Iceland’s economic report card is sparkling clean: the country boasts of a fully-funded pension, a strong financial regulatory agency, low unemployment, and high growth. In particular, Iceland’s banks have become a success story for financial integration, having fueled much of the country’s economic growth in the past decade. While the fishing industry’s share of GDP declined from 16% in 1980 to 6% in 2006, the finance, insurance, and real estate industries together saw an increase from 17% of GDP to 26% in the same period.

However, with a population of 300,000, or roughly one-fifth the population of Manhattan, this tiny island did not have the internal capital to support growth in the financial sector-they had to seek financial integration with the global system. Thus, these newly privatized banks quickly began to access foreign credit (and customers) in Scandinavia, the US, Japan, Canada, Australia, and the UK. One now-infamous Icelandic bank, Landsbanki, started IceSave, an UK-based Internet bank, in October 2006, which accumulated £7.3 billion deposits from 300,000 British and Dutch accounts. By the first quarter of 2008, assets of Icelandic banks had ballooned to 14,069 billion ISK (Icelandic krona) or $176 billion, roughly eleven times the size of the country’s 2007 GDP.

Though financial liberalization enabled capital to flow easily into the country, capital was able to flow out just as easily. Investors saw the country, even with its strong financial fundamentals, as the weakest link of the ongoing global financial crisis.

The most dramatic consequence of the collapse and subsequent nationalization of the big three Icelandic banks could be seen in the UK, where the British government had to resort to anti-terrorism laws to freeze $6.8 billion in Icelandic assets.

Iceland’s meltdown presents potential consequences beyond the global financial sector. Many of its domestic companies are now multinational corporations that depend on a viable currency regime and access to foreign credit for continued operation. Two particularly prominent businesses are Actavis and the Baugur Group. In the 1990s, Actavis, a generic-producing pharmaceutical, had less than 100 employees and served only the Icelandic market.

Now the company is active in 40 countries and employees 11,000 people. Its collapse would produce a spillover effect that could cause other associated businesses to go bankrupt. The greatest possibility of this domino theory at work is with Baugur Group, which directly owns a large number of UK retail conglomerates, including Woolworth’s and Somerfield (as well as an equity stake in Saks Fifth Avenue).

Ultimately, on October 25, Iceland became the first Western country since 1976 to accept an International Monetary Fund (IMF) bailout. Discussions are now on-going for an additional $4 billion loan by Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Denmark (after initial talks with Russia came under harsh fire).

Paradoxically, greater financial liberalization must be pursued to salvage Iceland’s economy. With its banking sector’s sheer size in comparison to the national economy, Iceland must abandon the krona in favor of the euro, as the EU is a much more credible lender-of-last-resort than the government of a small Scandinavian island.

One hedge fund manager earlier this year described the almost sure-fire profit of shorting Iceland as the “second coming of Christ.” Ironically, through the financial integration of the 1990s, the island’s banking sector had itself turned into a sort of bizarre hedge fund, with an enormous asset-liability mismatch to the size of the underlying economy.

Granted, although the three banks’ fundamentals were relatively strong, with little exposure to subprime securities, they were ultimately early victims of the global credit crunch. With no wholesale credit to roll over their loans, they had to be nationalized, which set off a chain-reaction of events that impacted the UK, Germany, and several other nations across the globe. Now, paradoxically, more financial integration, in the form of Iceland moving from the krona to the Euro, is needed in order to stave off another banking crisis and for long-term stability and growth of the Icelandic economy.

So what does all this mean to a seasoned traveler like you?

  • Book yourself on the next flight to Iceland. The krona has fallen in value by half over the last couple months. That means a national 50% off sale.
  • But this joyride may be over soon. The IMF $2 billion bailout is designed to stabilize their currency. Translation: things will cost more.
  • Set your net wider. Other European countries, particularly Hungary, Ukraine, Spain, and Germany, are financially weak right now.
  • And whatever you do, don’t put your money in an Icelandic bank. Even if they offer you a small village as collateral.

November Iceland roadtrip: “You’re an idiot”

A lot of foreigners are taking advantage of the ridiculously depreciated Icelandic krona and flying there this winter. Which is a bit weird because it’s Iceland. And winter.

As one Icelandic native said to me, “The nation is surviving right now on foreign journalists and tourists.”

I’m in the middle of figuring out the logistics of my trip. My top priority is booking a rental car and hopefully making it around the 800 or so mile of the ring road, an epic journey that will take me all the way around the island. Alas, here’s what the local guru had to say about my foolhardy idea:

Unless you’re an extremely skilled winter driver, I highly, highly discourage you from driving the Ring Road in late Nov. Roads aren’t salted and though even the rental cars have studded tires, the conditions are freakishly scary and just not something an utlengur (foreigner) should be doing. Even the road between Keflavik (the airport) and Reykjavik can be treacherous. Take my word on this… not a good idea. Also, late November is really dark. You’ll have only a few hours of light a day, which makes conditions even worse and not good for a travel piece.

Iceland on the cheap: Am I the worst person in the world?

So I just took advantage of Grant’s tipoff last week to $400 roundtrip airfare to Iceland. I’m flying out of Boston the weekend before Thanksgiving, and staying for a week. And I believe my flight came out to something like $550, not bad at all for a departure on Saturday and return on Sunday.

Now I’m trying to scoop up some dirt-cheap hotel rooms, a rental car, and hmm, maybe a mid-sized bank somewhere. Yes, I do feel a bit awkward just parachuting into a country that’s, according to news today, running out of food in 3-5 weeks.

It’s a beautiful country, but I’m almost more excited to go walk down Main Street and just see what a “bankrupt” country is like, in the dead of winter no less. I mean, when does that ever happen? Or did I just speak too soon.

On a related note, I’m working on a research paper about Iceland’s economic collapse, and it’s somewhat humorous to read the predictions made by distinguished economists from just a couple years back. Take this one from 2006, posted on the Icelandic consulate’s website:

“Recent volatility in Iceland’s asset markets has raised concerns about the fragility of Iceland’s economy,” comment Frederic S. Mishkin and his co-author Tryggvi T. Herberrtsson in their report, “Financial Stability in Iceland.” But these concerns, particularly those that raise comparisons with certain financial issues in emerging market countries, are “misguided.”

Ha! Oh, that reminds me. I have to go get a visa from that consulate … whoops.

Iceland’s economy turns away from finance to —- tourism!

With the financial sector steadily imploding, Iceland is in a bit of trouble. As Aaron wrote about earlier this week, much of the Atlantic island’s economy was built upon credit and finance, and now that those industries are failing, the country needs extra income to keep up its highbrow status.

And where else can you quickly reap foreign investment but in tourism? Iceland Air, long one of the premium transatlantic carriers (if you want to stop in Reykjavik) is leading the charge to get American dollars by offering some killer fares to the North Atlantic this winter. Book by October 21st and you can get cheap round trip tickets from New York or Boston to the Icelandic capital for only $400 plus tax.

Add the fact that the dollar is suddenly making a killing in Iceland (as of this morning, 222 Krona to 1 dollar, from 80Krona a couple of weeks ago), and you could have a pretty nice inexpensive vacation on your hands.

Check out Icelandair’s website for further details on the deal, and while you’re in town make sure to check out the ice ring road, blue lagoon (pictured) and drink with some vikings.