How To Survive Bolivia’s Death Road

by Jessica Festa on

“This is the most dangerous road in the world. Don’t become part of the landscape,” advised Oscar, a biking guide from Vertigo Biking Co. Bolivia.

On a sunny Wednesday right outside of La Paz in Bolivia, I found myself adorned from head to toe in cycling gear, standing at the summit of a 40-mile downhill road. While technically called Old Road, the path is more commonly known as Death Road, even by locals. While I’ve written about numerous travel destinations with menacing names, such as Devil’s Tooth in Bolivia, Death Valley in Chile and Hell’s Gate in New Zealand, the name Death Road should be taken very literally.

The road was originally built by prisoners of war from Paraguay in 1932. Before 2006, Death Road was the only connection between La Paz and the jungle. According to Oscar, before this time there were about 25 cars per year and about 2 bikes per year that would fall over the edge. The terrain is rough and the road is narrow, so there isn’t very much space to move over. Along the trail you can even see memorials dedicated to lost lives, like an area called “The Balcony,” where several politicians were killed. If you climb down the steep valleys – which I don’t advise – you can still see some buses that fell over the edge. Even knowing these facts, I knew it was something I had to experience for myself. It’s kind of like flying; yes, people die on airplanes, but a majority of fliers survive the journey. I knew if I kept a positive attitude and focused, I too could survive Death Road.Before going, I made the mistake of reading other travelers’ accounts of the journey. After reading stories of almost toppling over steep cliff faces, skidding out of control on narrow paths and being so terrified needing to quit and ride in the van, I felt nauseous and anxious the day of the ride. However, my nervousness was overcome by curiosity at seeing just how dangerous this road was. While the road is safer now, accidents still happen. For example, in January there was a landslide that caused a bus to go over the edge. Furthermore, last year a Japanese tourist, who booked the tour through a cheap and unreliable company, lost control of her bike due to a brake failure and fell 200 feet to her death.

For this reason, my first piece of advice when undertaking a bike ride down Death Road is to choose a good tour operator. There are plenty of companies out there willing to give anybody a bike without caring if it really works or not. I highly recommend Vertigo Biking Co. Bolivia. The bikes are high quality, and they make sure to test them before each run. Moreover, there is a guide in front and a guide in back of the group the entire time. A van is also following nearby, in case anybody gets altitude sickness or can’t make the full journey. And if you’re extremely slow like me, it helped that the guides stopped the group for pictures every 10 to 20 minutes. The company also does a lot to help make the area safer. In 2009, a man taking a Vertigo tour fainted on the trail, and passed away from a punctured lung on the way home. The company has a good relationship with the family of this man, who has helped donate an ambulance and worked with Vertigo to build fences and memorials on the road.

The first part of the ride entails driving on the highway to get to the entry point at Unduavi. Don’t get too comfortable though, as this is just to help you get used to the bike. From there, the road gets extremely rocky. I don’t just mean gravel, but a mixture of large stones, pebbles and jagged rock. Because of this, it’s quite easy to lose control of the bike, and there are basically no guardrails to save you.

This leads me to my next piece of advice, which is to take your time. I was 20 minutes behind the group the whole ride, and didn’t feel the least bit bad. I wanted to feel safe and enjoy the scenery, not feel unstable and scared. Additionally, sharp turns, dangerous corners and downhill sections can make the journey precarious. Oscar was great about it, joking with the group “this section will take us 10 minutes. Well, 30 minutes if you’re Jessica.” No matter how slow I went, the back guide stayed with me, as well. Going at a slow pace, I never felt like I was going to fly over the edge. Don’t get me wrong, looking down the endless cliff will definitely bring butterflies to your stomach, but stay away from the edge and keep control and your biggest concern will be a busted kneecap – still not fun, but better than dying. Our guide actually told us that about once or twice a month, he gets riders who panic and cry because of the heights. However, being afraid of heights myself, I never felt scared, as long as I cycled away from the edge.

Along the way, you’ll pass villages, waterfalls and beautiful mountain landscapes. The last 20 minutes of the journey are on a mix of mud, dirt and rock. Once you finish, you will be greatly rewarded. The tour ends at a tropical-themed hotel in the Coroico area with a delicious buffet lunch of soup, salad, rice, pasta, fried chicken, plantains, French fries and sauces. You can also swim in the pool and tan in a tropical setting. Shampoo and towels are provided if you’d like to shower.

For me, a great tour means feeling safe, getting a worthwhile experience and having a guide who feels more like a friend than an instructor. This tour provided just that, as Oscar told us funny stories and dedicated silly songs to us on the way home, even inviting the group to dinner and to play soccer with him the next day. The tour cost me 450 Bolivianos (about $65), but I was told they were having a sale for people purchasing in person, and the price is usually 540$BOB (about $78). Along with the tour, you will also get photos, a video and a free T-shirt to show everyone that you lived to tell the tale of conquering Death Road.

Visiting The Devil’s Tooth In La Paz, Bolivia

by Jessica Festa on

When loud, traffic-heavy, protest-passionate La Paz gets to be too much, one way to escape while not even leaving the city is to visit the Devil’s Tooth, or Muela del Diablo. While this may sound scarier than ingesting smog and crazy drivers, seeing the site on horseback is actually quite serene.

Devil’s Tooth is an inactive volcano that is approximately 492 feet high. According to our guide, it got its name because indigenous people believed it looked like the tooth of Satan. The journey also allowed us to take in sweeping city views and Moon Valley, or Valle de la Luna. The valley gets its name from its unusual rock formations.

What I really loved about the area was how much culture there was. Along with stunning landscapes, there are indigenous women wearing traditional bowler hats working outside, children herding sheep and playing soccer, and small schools and homes residing on the hills. The trip really allowed for a glimpse into local life in Bolivia.

In the middle of the tour – once you get to the best lookout point of the trip – the group stops for an included lunch of fruit, a ham and cheese sandwich, and chocolate and flavored milk. The guides are Spanish speaking, but usually speak a little bit of English, too. Either way, talking isn’t necessary to enjoy this trip. You can book through most travel agencies in La Paz. Expect to pay about $50.

For a more visual idea of the experience, check out the gallery below.

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Video: Witches’ Market, La Paz, Bolivia

by Sean McLachlan on


Bolivia is an exciting adventure travel destination offering challenging mountain treks, interesting dishes like roast guinea pig and mysterious ancient ruins.

One of the most popular, and certainly the strangest, attraction is the Witches’ Market in the capital La Paz. Here you can find mummified llama fetuses, aphrodisiacs and herbal remedies. Many of the spells are based on the ancient traditions of the Aymara people. You can also get your fortune told or get cured by one of the many yatiri, or witch doctors. There’s Catholic paraphernalia too. In many regions of South America traditional beliefs merged with the Catholicism brought by the Spanish to create a hybrid tradition.

Check out this video where an intrepid traveler braves the Witches’ Market and learns all about how to gain love and money, especially money. This is part one of three, so make sure to see the rest!

Finding the Holy Spirit in Baja: Darwin would be proud

by Jason Heflin on

Imagine an uninhabited island with clear bays of turquoise water edged with rocky cliffs. Sea turtles, blue-footed boobies, and sea lions make their home on its shores. The surrounding waters contain giant manta ray, shark, dolphin, orca, and the mighty pacific gray whale. This island boasts one of the most biologically diverse bodies of water in the world, so you might think we’re describing the famed Galapagos. We’re in Baja Mexico, the island of Espiritu Santo to be exact.

The cockpit of a kayak is the best place from which to view the island. Paddling the shores allows you to experience the water and take in the beauty of the landscape. I trolled for jack and bonita while paddling and even caught dinner for my camp one night. There are several operators on the island, but be sure to go with a trusted tour provider. For example, Boundless Journeys provides week-long all-inclusive trips (under $2,000) to the island and practices leave-no-trace camping ethics.

To see the unique desert landscape of Espiritu Santo strap on a pair of boots or sturdy sandals and explore the dirt paths criss-crossing the rocky landscape. After a rain the dry island transforms into a colorful wonderland of flowers and plants. Summer temperatures can easily skyrocket into the 90s and sunscreen as well as frequent shaded breaks are mandatory. While on a guided hike of the island our group found shelter in one of the caves naturally carved into the cliff line. Self-guided hikes are fine for experienced hikers but a guide is recommended for those unfamiliar with desert hiking.

Setting up camp in one of the natural bays provides a perfect base of operations. From a base camp a panga (small motorized boat) can be used to reach remote areas of the island. A base camp also eliminates the need to trek across choppy water back and forth to the mainland each day. Most pangas are equipped to carry kayaks and can drop paddlers in bays that offer easy paddling as well as mysterious mangrove swamps. The twisted limbs and roots of the mangroves are home to many of the islands bird species such as the long-necked snowy egrets and blue herons.

Although paddling and hiking are two of the most popular activities on the island, wildlife viewing is why most come. Throngs of tourists flood the shores each year to spot the many species that call them home. The playful sea lions on the north shore are a huge draw, as are the wide variety of bird species. The blue-footed booby is one of the most sought after. February and March are the best time to catch mighty gray whales as they spend their winter in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez.

The closest city to Espiritu Santo is La Paz. The calm waters in the bay where La Paz sprouted create a protective harbor for ships. Although small, the airport has daily flights from Mexico City and Guadalajara to accommodate tourists. Visiting La Paz during the Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, provides an opportunity to experience one of the world’s most unique festivals. Giant skeletal statues, faces painted like skulls, and dioramas depicting tiny skeletons enjoying daily activities are just a few of the ways locals celebrate their ancestors.

After a week of paddling the mangroves and experiencing the diverse mix of bird and sea life, I couldn’t help but wonder how long it might take the Mexican government to get a good grasp on the difficult task of enforcing the rules they’ve set forth on Espiritu Santo.

Locals cash in on the abundant fish populations surrounding the island and are finding employment as guides, camp cooks, and panga drivers. For now, the island seems to be maintaining it’s extraordinary biodiversity while simultaneously providing income for locals and enjoyment for tourists, but this is a delicate balancing act indeed.

Ten outdoor destinations with everything!

by Jason Heflin on

Who says you can’t have it all? For many travelers vacation time is limited. Those in search of adventure want to maximize that short window of travel time. Here are ten cities where adventure-seekers can expand their options with a range of heart-pounding choices.

Buena Vista, Colorado
Buena Vista translates to “beautiful view.” It’s easy to understand why the name stuck. Nestled into the central Colorado highlands, this Colorado town just might be the hidden adventure gem of the Rockies. Peak-baggers have twenty 14ers within roughly an hour-and-a-half drive from Buena Vista, making it a perfect base camp for high-altitude hiking. Ski Cooper, Monarch and Aspen are all close by for a winter sports fix and the class III-V Arkansas River provides thrilling whitewater rafting all summer long.

Cape Town, South Africa
South Africa is considered by many to be the adrenaline capital of the world. Cape Town has no shortage of blood-pumping options. Traditional sports like sea kayaking and mountain biking are epic here, but there’s also more unique endeavors like sand boarding. If that’s still not enough to get adrenaline junkies excited, there’s always the shark cage diving experience.
Vancouver, Canada
Adventure pursuits like sailing and kayaking are synonymous with this famous Canadian coastal city. Of course, skiing is the main draw in Vancouver, a fact reinforced by the city’s selection as host of the 2010 Winter Olympics. One visit to Whistler Blackcomb, among the top ranked snow resorts in North America, and the powder crazed will fall in love.

Quito, Ecuador
I was on the summit of a 15,763 foot active volcano within four hours of leaving my hotel in Ecuador’s capital city, Quito. This short trek with dizzying altitude is but one of the quick fixes found in this city of less than two million. Rural Ecuador is still developing its adventure sports attitude, but when using Quito as a starting point guides can be found easily. Cotopaxi, one of the world’s most perfectly shaped volcanoes, is only a two hour drive from town. Cycling and mountain biking have seen a huge boom in recent years and bike rental companies are eager to take visitors on epic rides through the Andes for up to two weeks in length.

Bar Harbor, Maine
In Summer, the population of this quaint Maine fishing village swells from around 5,000 inhabitants to 18,000, and for good reason. Surrounded by paddling and sailing opportunities, those making their way into the area’s bays can not only watch whales and seals but can spot a variety of stunning bird species such as Bald Eagles and Puffins. During my stay I found that land based options are equally as spectacular with Acadia National Park sitting just out the back door. Hiking provides views of the channels and bays while the park’s abundant exposed rock opens up endless climbing opportunities. There is even a climbing school in the city for those uninitiated to the sport.

Castries, St. Lucia
Once travelers work their way past the cruise ships and trinket shops, a world of adventure awaits in Castries, the capital city of St. Lucia. Professional mountain biker Tinker Juarez designed a trail system specifically for the Anse Chastanet Resort. Beginner, intermediate, and expert single track trails wind their way through former plantations and lush jungle vegetation. Diving and snorkeling opportunities abound along St. Lucia’s shore. More experienced divers will find wreck diving just off the coast. This Caribbean island is even home to a diving shop named Scuba Steves. What more could a beach bum want?

La Paz, Bolivia
Trek along ancient Inca trails, raft the class II-IV rapids or the Rio Tuichi, or take on the world’s highest ski resort Chacaltaya. If that’s not enough adrenaline, mountain bike the Death Road, reported to be the most dangerous mountain bike ride in the world.

Auckland, New Zealand
Auckland boasts average highs between 59 and 75 degrees year round. The mild temperatures make for an ideal adventure sports hub. Rappel into massive caverns with Waitomo Cave Adventures to explore the underworld of New Zealand. You will need at least two weeks to take in all the adventure Auckland has to offer. Surfing, horse trekking, sailing, and magnificent hiking can all be found near this city in the “Land of the Hobbits.”

Bend, Oregon
With a beautiful trout stream rippling through town and ski slopes just up the road at Mount Bachelor, Bend accommodates Winter and Summer visitors alike. I found a trail run around Todd Lake that was the perfect way to take in a pristine alpine setting. Backpack the 40-mile Three Sisters Loop and enjoy jaw-dropping views of these triplet peaks.

Chamonix, France
France’s Chamonix has long been known as the site of world-renowned ski resorts and awe-inspiring vistas of the Alps. But these days, the French city is also home to an “air park” where brave visitors can paraglide from just below snowy summits and soar above green pasture. For those who prefer their adventures a bit closer to the ground, there’s the Via Ferrata course. Via Ferrata takes rock climbing to the masses with metal steps and small ledges for climbers to use, all while clipped in to a secure cable system.

Having your cake and eating it too was never so easy. Any of these world-class destinations should be a crowd-pleaser for even the most ambitious adventure travelers.