Drug tourism and cocaine bars

by Brenda Yun on

What fun is travel without a little excitement? Rest and relaxation is a given, but excitement? That you have to look for, and it appears excitement for many is found in drugs.

I came across an article yesterday that made me cringe. The world’s first cocaine bar, it read. And while I have to admit it picqued my interest, I must also say the thought of sitting in a bar with nearly everyone high on cocaine scares me — beyond belief. I wonder, though, whether this cocaine bar in La Paz, Bolivia is on to something. There are heaps of traveling hedonists, eager for a new high, and while I don’t find that high in drugs, I’m almost positive many travelers in Latin America — and all over the world, for that matter — do.

If you think about it, drug tourism has been around for decades. It was no secret that drugs came easy at Studio 54, and it wasn’t really a surprise to me when I heard recently of Kokie’s, a bar in Manhattan that sold cocaine on the down low. I guess the name gave Kokie’s away, because it’s now closed.

And cocaine’s not the only thing people travel for in the world. Consider all the cheap prescription drugs you can get in Tijuana. I even took advantage of that and bought a bottle of Cipro. Or what about the opium dens in Laos. There were all kinds of “special” pizzas on the menu in Vang Vieng. In a lot of ways, drugs and travel mix perfectly, and in a lot of ways, it’s not wrong to mix them unless you’re over-using and forgetting about reality — or not even bothering to understand the place you’re in.

Nevertheless, could this cocaine bar in La Paz be a sign of the times, and will drugs be the new draw for certain destinations abroad? Only time will tell…

Strange New Year’s traditions around the world

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Unlike many holidays, where celebrants are bound by tradition or religion, New Year’s is a holiday that allows each individual to choose his own method of celebration. Some revelers will soak themselves in alcohol, boozing it up with copious bottles of champagne. Others choose to make the evening a quieter affair, settling in for a movie and an early night in bed.

However you personally choose to celebrate New Year’s 2009, people around the world certainly have some wacky ways that they choose to bring in their new year. MSNBC is reporting on some of the more interesting customs. Here’s a look at a few of the more curious:

  • South America – in countries like Brazil and Bolivia, it’s what’s inside that counts. Residents in cities such as Sao Paulo and La Paz ring in the New Year by donning brightly colored underpants. Those who choose red are hoping for an amorous year ahead, those with yellow wish for money. I guess this begs the question of how you tell who is wearing what color underwear. Perhaps that is best left unanswered…
  • Denmark – as if the effects of plentiful New Year’s alcohol were not disorienting enough, many Danish revelers leap off chairs at the stroke of midnight, hoping to banish bad spirits in the year ahead.
  • Philippines – New Year’s celebrations in places like Manila tend to be circular; Filipinos focus on all things round, consuming “round” fruits such as grapes and wearing clothing with round shapes like polka dots. The spherical theme is meant to remind celebrants of the “round” shape of coins and prosperity.
  • Spain – at the stroke of 12, Spaniards begin to consume 12 grapes, attempting to eat the whole bunch by the time the clock stops chiming.
  • Belarus – the new year in Belarus is all about getting hitched. Unmarried women compete at games of skill and chance to determine who will tie the knot in the coming months. One game involves setting piles of corn and a rooster before the potential brides-to-be – whichever pile the bird chooses apparently picks the lucky lady.

You can check out the full list of weird New Year’s traditions here.

Amazing Race 13, episode 3: La Paz, Bolivia, where a taxi can make or break you

by Jamie Rhein on

The competition is heating up on the Amazing Race. Season13 has hit its stride. When the teams landed in La Paz, Bolivia, each team sped or wobbled along depending upon their ability to deal with the altitude.

Although most teams seem to be trying to win the race by just doing their best without creating drama between them, Starr has decided she doesn’t like Kelly and Christy and is out to do them in. The divorcees aren’t too thrilled with her either. I think it’s because the three of them all look alike.

Although, perhaps Starr really didn’t push Christy’s sports bra off a window ledge. Perhaps, she did. Whatever. The sports bra incident created drama that darted in and out this episode. Whenever the focus was off these three vixens, I was a happier viewer and enjoyed the other people’s company.

Travel Tips from this episode:

  • When traveling at a high altitude, breathe deeply, not quickly.
  • Keeping your mood light and being friendly can entice local people to help you out.
  • Walk in La Paz when the distance you want to go is not that far. It’s faster.
  • Read directions carefully. It can save you a lot of trouble and heartache.
  • If the person you are with is having a hard time breathing, be supportive and don’t bitch. You’ll have a better time and your traveling companion won’t talk badly about you.

Recap and Cultural Highlights:

The initial shots of La Paz were magnificent. The blue skies and mountains showed off the beauty of the city’s surroundings. Once the teams landed they were in the dark, literally and figuratively. All headed to the statue of Simon Bolivar for their next clue. The right after midnight departure time was more to my liking than last week’s 4 a.m. start.

Because the clue wouldn’t come until daylight, each person was handed a wonderful Bolivian blanket from a female vendor wearing a signature Cholita hat. The blankets helped pad the hard sidewalk where the team members staked out a space for a bit of shut eye before the morning newspaper arrived. In its pages was the next clue.

During this segment, I wondered what the Bolivians thought of this rag tag group of Americans sleeping on the plaza as if they were homeless.

As soon as the newspapers arrived, there was a flurry and group pounce to snag one. As normal, some of the teams immediately spotted the ad that directed them to their next destination. Southern Belles Marissa and Brooke were not in this group and appeared more and more worried as they were left behind, still searching.

The ad, specific to the race, directed the teams to Narvaez Hat Shop near Plaza Murillo. There they were to buy a cholita hat to take along with them. The blankets were left behind.

I would have had a hard time leaving such a souvenir, but oh, well for the chance of a million dollars, there’s more blankets where they came from.

The next leg of the race was a lesson in transportation woes. Teams that walked got to the shop faster than those that took a taxi. Keep that in mind if you’re in La Paz.. Taxis are not always the fastest way to travel. Ask a local what he or she would recommend. Knowing Spanish helped.

At the hat shop, the teams received the next clues with the Road Block choices: “Musical March” or “Bumpy Ride.” In Musical March, the teams were to walk between two plazas to gather musicians at each location in order to form a band with a range of instruments.

In Bumpy Ride, teams were to walk to Mercado de las Brujas, pick up locally made bicycles made almost entirely of wood–including wheels, one for each person, and ride them down the hills of the cobblestone streets and through a tunnel to the next clue.

Each of the tasks ended at Plaza Abaroa. With these two tasks, the action picked up, and it became clear how the teams’ different choices and the ability to deal with Bolivia’s altitude could influence their outcome.

Mark & Bill, who normally do so well with written information, didn’t read their clue carefully enough and missed the edict that they were to head to the bicycles on foot. As soon as they hopped in a taxi, pleased as punch with themselves, I felt bad. I like these two.

Sarah and Terrence also hopped in a taxi but, immediately felt that something was wrong. They reread their clue, noticed their mistake, and went back to the hat shop location to hoof it. This pair, a focal point of last week, were having smooth sailing except for the snafu with the taxi so they didn’t have much camera time. Maybe Terrence has stopped whining.

Only two teams picked the Musical March. Marissa and Brooke loved the experience, laughing and clapping the whole way. Again, these two seem unflappable. Their band played a fairly lively tune keeping up the pace.

In contrast, frat boys Andrew & Dan were morose. It wasn’t like they were on a death march exactly, but their lack of fun didn’t encourage the band members to step it up much. Their band plodded along the streets, playing their instruments in a tired sort of way, perhaps wondering how they got stuck with such complainers.

The bicycle riders had a more challenging time of it. The best parts were the funky hats and gloves the team members put on for protection. They were similar to what I imagine the Bird Man of Alcatraz might like to wear.

Here, two distinct team personalities emerged. Those who bitched at each other, and those who helped each other out. Ty was annoyed at Aja because she wasn’t quite fast enough for him and Dallas began to get annoyed with his mom for being slow until she reminded him she wasn’t going slow on purpose. The altitude can be a real downer. Aja woefully said that she hadn’t seen this part of Ty’s competitive side before.

The bicycles weren’t a match for the cobblestones and there were a couple of nasty spills. About the time Christy took a fall, Starr hoped that Ty and Aja would U-Turn the divorcees. All decided there wasn’t a point of U-turns quite yet, although Aja was happy to tell Christy later that Starr was out to get her. I’m thinking that they’ve been watching Survivor and are missing out on the fun of Bolivia. Also, it would have been in poor form, I think, to U-Turn someone who is lying on the sidewalk and probably skinned a bit.

Once the teams reached Plaza Abaroa, off they headed, this time by taxi to Los Titanes del Ring where one of the team members learned to wrestle cholita-style. I loved this part. First though, the taxi ride there was a stress producer. Depending on bum luck, some teams were stuck, barely moving, while others had drivers who found more direct ways. Poor Mark & Bill, still unaware of their earlier mistake, were in a taxi that needed to stop for gas.

Donning traditional wrestling suits, after handing a cholita wrestler the bowler hat, each member learned a wresting routine with six moves. Each move had to be done correctly and in the wrestling ring with a real cholita in front of a real audience. If a mistake was made, back to training before being able to try again.

These are the types of tasks I like the best. They highlight part of the culture with depth and give the contestants a chance to interact with people in a more authentic way. I’m sure the Bolivians who were part of this segment are still talking about it.

Although Ken took to wrestling a woman like a pro, his cape flashing as he slingshot himself off the ropes, landed on his back, flipped over the woman he was wrestling, landed on top of her, and eventually raised his arms and hands above his head in triumph, poor Mark had a time of it. Eventually, the hard work did Mark in for awhile. After screwing up the routine twice, he had to breathe in oxygen from a tank before his third attempt. Luckily, third time was a charm.

At this point, I’m enjoying Tina, Marissa, Bill and Toni the best. As spectators of the cholita wrestling matches, they’re enjoying everyone else’s experience as much as they are enjoying their own–a real bonus when it comes to being the perfect traveling companions.

Because Tina & Ken once again kicked it to the finish first. As they stepped on the Pit Stop mat at el Mirador del Monticulo, a park with a view of La Paz, they hugged and kissed as if all is forgiven in their troubled marriage. Maybe the trick to doing well in the Amazing Race is to have a personal history to work through.

The saddest moment in this segment was when Mark & Bill arrived at the Pit Stop to find out that they had a 30 minute penalty because they took a taxi way back when they should have walked. Because they came in 8th, it wasn’t hard for Christy and Kelly to show up before the 30 minutes were up. To Christy and Kelly’s credit, although they were thrilled to find out they were still in the race, they did look dismayed that their win was because of Mark & Bill’s loss.

What Ken & Tina won:

A seven day trip to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

Word of travel wisdom from Bill & Mark:

When your traveling, pick a person who you enjoy. As Mark said, “Bill’s one of my best friends. I couldn’t have picked a better person.

Bodyslammed in Bolivia – the female wrestlers of El Alto

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Our friends over at Intelligent Travel pointed us to this awesome video slideshow feature on female wrestling in Bolivia, put together by the team at National Geographic. Lucha libre, for those who are not familiar, is a style of pro-wrestling popular in Latin America. Its popularity extends all the way to South America, where in Bolivia, a feisty group of women have adopted the sport as their own to show their toughness, demonstrate their passion for lucha libre and just simply to let off a little steam.

Called cholitas luchadoras, these wrestling women are typically Aymara, one of the main ethnic groups of Bolivia. Taking stage names like the “Amorous Yolanda” and the “Evil Claudina,” the women take to the stage in the town of El Alto each Saturday night, dressed in their full traditional regalia of petticoats, bowler hats and braided hair. These girls don’t play nice either – attendees can expect to see all the bone-crunching body slams, flying leaps and folding chair weapons they have come to expect from their male counterparts.

It was only 7 years ago that Bolivian entrepreneur and diehard lucha libre fan Juan Mamani had the idea to introduce women into his weekly wrestling events. Attendance was dwindling and Mamani wanted to find a way to bring a new audience to the shows. Several years on and the women have become one of the event’s most popular draws. More interesting perhaps, is that many men come not to gawk at the “pretty ladies” but seem to genuinely admire them for their skill and passion for the sport.

I can’t say that I’ve ever been much of a fan of wrestling, but these women might have won me over. Anybody up for some lucha libre on their next South America trip?

“Bizarre Foods” on the Travel Channel: Season 2, Bolivia

by Jamie Rhein on

Location: Bolivia, highest and most remote country of South America. Home of naturally freeze-dried potatoes, the Andes, llamas galore, and a fondness for cooking EVERY part that’s at all edible.

Episode Rating: 4 Sheep Testicles (out of 4) using Aaron’s system from last week’s recap.

Summary: My immediate response to this “Bizarre Foods” episode was “Yep, Bolivia is definitely on my go-to list.” In between relishing dishes of animal innards, host Andrew Zimmern traveled widely tossing in cultural tidbits between sampling mostly soups and dried meat. The significance of llamas, bowler hats, witch doctor rituals, women’s wrestling and a traditional feast rounded out Zimmern’s eatfest.

First stop, La Paz, the world’s highest capital. Beforehand shots of sheep and lambs prancing on Bolivia’s high altitude plateaus indicated dishes to come. Here, markets are places for wandering and sampling. Zimmern bought salted pickled pigs feet straight off. The lamb jerky, he liked, although the hair still on it gave him pause. He described it as “Hard as rock… it tastes like the pile of hay the lamb sleeps on.” Perhaps, skip that and try Mocochinchi, a drink also called booger juice. Zimmern said the light peanut version tasted like peanut milk.

The food markets reminded me of Asia where choices can be overwhelming. When deciding which stalls to dip into, Zimmern suggests looking at the cook and seeing which stall looks nice. That’s worked for me.

At La Casa de los Pacenos, Zimmern feasted on: 1. Lamb kidneys–“Wow! could have used a good soaking in milk;” 2. Tripe–“as clean as any I’ve tasted, one might think it’s cold slaw”; and 3. Penis soup. Bull penis soup to be exact. “Ya have to like the rich chunky texture. . . richness of bone marrow and texture of a pear.” Well, okay if you say so. Imagine the chopping–or not.

For llama brains with tongue, sauteed in garlic sauce, Zimmern went to an artsy looking restaurant, Pronto Delicatessen. “You could put the garlic sauce this guy makes on an old tennis shoe and it would taste good, ” Zimmern proclaimed. Frankly, I’d stick with the fish served with lime called Carpaccio de Ispi.

Other Bolivian food tasting locations:

Yapacani, Santa Cruz where at a small Mom and Pop type place, Pop’ll head out the back door to kill dinner. How about well cooked armadillo and feral pig? Achachira, a fruit similar to mangosteen looked delicious, and, according to Zimmern, is indeed.

Altiplano –Up in these mountains the signature dish is naturally freeze-dried potatoes, a process that takes several days and involves skinning them by walking on them with bare feet. The result isn’t pretty and tastes earthy, but they’ll keep for 25 years. I loved this segment the best. The family featured was very sweet–the type who calm jangling nerves just by being around them.

Lake Titicaca–At the feast of Altiplano, Zimmern waxed poetic about the Quinoa dumplings, trout and corn. The landscape was gorgeous–and the feast a worthwhile stop.

Unusual cultural detail: At the Witches Market in La Paz you can get your fortune-told with cocoa leaves and buy fixin’s for a llama fetus offering. Burning one of these brings good luck.

For more episode details, Andrew’s blog can fill you in.